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2½" Forwards for the Cost of Chrome

10K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  Señor Gar 
#1 · (Edited)
'Factory' Forwards

Not all that difficult, surprisingly
. I relocated both foot pegs over the upper mounting bolt as Jim (ikya
) showed us with his mod. This moves the foot pegs forward 2½" and ½" down. I used the OEM plates after cutting, grinding and welding to move the hinge base for the stock pegs.

For the foot brake lever I made one partial downward cut near the pivot 90% of the way through which allowed me to bend the lever down and forward (maybe 20°) creating a 'V' opening ½" at the top of the 'V'. At this point it is a good idea to preassemble and check the foot position against the peg and pedal while seated on the bike. The pedal is now under the ball of my foot about 1¼" closer to the peg than stock allowing me to keep my right heel hooked on the peg. Once you have it right just weld and finish grind the gap.

No parts to buy, all bits repurposed, couldn't be simpler
.
Only chrome remains to be done.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Left Side

For the shift linkage I relocated the shift arm pivot ¾” forward which moved the 'pedal' forward, down and about 1” closer to the foot peg than stock. Then I straightened the two bends below the pivot just a little to get clearance for the tie rod bolt below the crankcase so no changes were needed to the rod. Also cut down the 'pedal' about 1” and tossed the rubber so now I can shift with just a twist of my ankle and my heal still hooked on the peg (size 9 boot).

Relocated peg hinge and shifter ...
 

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#9 · (Edited)
So what's next on the drawing board? You'll be board when you run out of things to do with Fury. Lol
Hey Chris, since you took the Velociraptor off my hands I need to get working on a smaller air cleaner. I have a simple 2bl chrome dome and 4x2" filter from a deuce coupe that I am going to adapt :D. Not bored in 2 years; some new idea or need always pops up :rolleyes:.

 
#10 ·
Lol yea I don't see you getting board anytime soon. That's the great thing about the mind, it will always keep Coming up with something new to do. I just lined up some time in the paint booth for my final drive, Side covers, forks and other small parts for paint. And while the bike is apart, remember me talking about the motoscope mini speedo, well im working on getting one for the bike Cant wait. I would have already ordered one but the wife made me buy a new puppy instead of the speedo.
 
#11 ·
First Forward Ride

Since the license plates are expired for winter I just finished a mile or two circling the house :eek: (long driveways). Stopped for minor adjustments on the relay rods to get peg positions on the 2½" forwards dialed in. I love it :D.

The true test will come next spring on a long sunny ride but I can tell for sure that the extra 2½" makes for a noticeable improvement in comfort with my 32" inseam ;).
 
#13 · (Edited)
Only three parts to modify ...

Right Step Bracket


Brake Pedal


Left Step Bracket



Note: No Shifter Tie Rod Bolts were harmed in this procedure :p
This forward conversion does not require extending or bending the tie rod bolt.


The brake side step bracket shows an angled cut on the rear edge parallel to my aftermarket exhaust header pipe. With stock exhaust it is parallel without cutting.
The shift side step bracket shows a cut made parallel to the relocated shift lever after riding and adjusting the shift lever to it's final and most comfortable position.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Fine Tuning

Foot pegs are angled back 10° with 0.040" shims under the peg hinge.
This put pegs parallel with the bottom of the rider's foot and perpendicular to rider's legs
making the 'foot hold' more relaxed and secure ;).

To facilitate shifting "on the peg", without lifting foot off,
the shift peg rubber has been removed to reduce vertical foot movement between upshift and downshift
plus the peg has been shortened and then widened to keep pressure over a wide area on top of foot.

Backing plate has been reprofiled to reflect shift arm pivot changes.

Horn bracket had to be bent into a slight zig-zag to move it closer to the engine so it would clear the shift arm pivot bolt.
 

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#15 · (Edited)
Here is what 2½" looks like ...

2½" forward and ½" down


Stock peg location (32" inseam)


The visual difference isn't dramatic but the feel and comfort is :D.
Most noticeable is my knee height ;).

Should have the step brackets, brake and shift* pedals back from the chromer in a few weeks :). (*modified toe piece optional)
 
#18 ·
2½" forward and ½" down


Stock peg location (32" inseam)


The visual difference isn't dramatic but the feel and comfort is :D.
Most noticeable is my knee height ;).

Should have the step brackets, brake and shift* pedals back from the chromer in a few weeks :). (*modified toe piece optional)
After flipping back and forth about ten times between photos. You got me wanting to go this route. looks really good and comfy and within my budget. :)
 
#17 ·
That's using the old noggin!

Lucky for me my stubby legs hit the stock peg location just right.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Honestly Chris, it feels better than it looks and in my biased opinion it still looks stock and at the same time better than stock :D.
More pics and info here.
My foot is held up slightly to show the pedal of the shift lever in both photos but because I have now cut it back an inch the sole of my boot can comfortably rest an inch below. When they get back from the chrome shop I will post some more pics. Remember, this mod is only ½" short of the popular 3" Supreme Legends and lower than the 3" Accutronix :cool:. Also the stock pegs have more cushioning for comfort than anything else out there ;).

Although my western boots are only size 9½ the pointed toes make them about as long as much larger 'normal' footwear :D. Keeping that in mind, with the new geometry, I have the 'toe pedals' of the two foot levers about 1"S & 1¼"B closer to the pegs than stock.
 
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