"DIY" Turn Signal Mod, LED Light Install for beginners - Honda Fury Forums: Honda Chopper Forum
 
 


» Insurance
» Honda Fury Prices
» Sponsors
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-06-2010, 11:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member

 
RedspawnSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,173
Default "DIY" Turn Signal Mod, LED Light Install for beginners

Introduction:
Recently I purchased some LED lights from Radiantz LED Lighting - Motorcycle LED Lights and installed them (think they are used in the RAW lighting scheme, but I honestly don't know). During the installation process I took some pics for a DIY instruction for anybody that is willing to install these or any other LED light on your bike by yourself on the triple trees. I looked through the forums for a DIY for the front LED lights and couldn't find one, so thought that I would do a step by step install of these lights. The great tradition of Choppers is about doing it yourself and I figured some would like this guide. (Update 7/6/2010, also, I just replaced these LED's for one's from Auto Zone, if you would like to try these one's and/or are on a budget New LED's on the front... )

This install cost me less than $100 for everything (as I already had many of the tools and some of the parts I needed for the install, tape etc.) and I enjoy the way my bike looks now without the lollipops for turn signals. It is a little dim with the amount of LED’s I used in DIRECT light (they are really bright at night though!), but is fairly visible and cleans up the front end of the bike (& I can always add more now that I know how to do it!). Skip to 3rd reply for Final Pics! - Total install about 45 minutes to 1 hours determining on skill level. Some may also want to skip to Step 5 for the first part (I know, a little backwards…)

**Also, I did not purchase a load equalizer for this install, so the lights will blink fast. So this will just be an instruction of how to remove and install the lights** (Limited to 5 pics each post, so this post will have several parts to it)

Step 1: Purchase Part Requirements for exact duplication of install

2 pkgs. of PN: 85565, 18-22 ga., Wire splice’s by Dorman (bought at any Kragen Auto store) **Bought these for the 22 or 24 gauge wire that is being installed as it is easier on my hands**



2 pkgs. of P/N: 85474, 18-22 ga., Bullet terminals by Dorman (bought at any Kragen Auto Store) ** I bought these for easy connect and disconnect… possible upgrades later. Also if they have smaller ga. Terminals, would suggest to buy these for an easier installation time with the LED array to the bike as this is the lesson I learned while cramming my wires into the terminals…..** Just an FYI, you can also use these for ALL of your connections as it will reduce the bulk of your wiring! All about looks right?



2 pkgs. of P/N: 4015-20, 25 Amber LED flexible lights by Radiantz **for the purchase of your LED lights, you can buy any number of lights for your array, I just bought the 25 array of lights for my installation**



2 pkgs. of P/N: 6120-00, Dual Element Circuit for 15-25 LED’s by Radiantz. This allows the lights to run as running lights, and also allows it to flash for the turn signal **This PN was chosen because I picked the 25 array of lights, research your P/N for any change to the amount you would want to use**



*************** Can also use this instead*********

Side note: You Can use Solder Barrels and a lighter to connect these cables and it will give a much cleaner install!

(6126-00) Drugz Circuits - This is for replacing the dual element circuit in order for it to be brighter when on and dim when it flashes, still simulating the flashing effect, but also have it at full brightness instead of half brightness the whole time.

Radiantz LED Lighting - Toll Free 877-469-4241



**********************************************


Step 2: Tools needed


• 1 Wire stripper/crimper - (make sure the crimper is of good quality because the bullet terminals are hard to crimp closed!)
• 2 Phillips Screwdrivers, size: #1, #2
• Flathead Screwdriver , size: #2
• 1 pair of wire cutters
• Electrical tape
• **Black Heat Shrink (various sizes, 1 ft each… not necessarily needed but is better for weather proofing and looks)
• 1 tube of Chemiseal (P/N: S-8400W) or 1 small tube of white or clear caulking (waterproofing)
• Heat gun or trusty lighter
• Possibly some extra double sided tape for final installation.
• Rubbing Alcohol & Clean cotton balls or cotton pads.

*******Extra info for those beginners that want to have the flashing rate slow, posted by Tony_Fury:



Tridon Industrial flashers, unlike thermal flashers that generate & dissipate heat, use positive electro-mechanical relays with an electronic circuit to achieve consistent timing & minimal heat. 12 Volt, 1-10 Lamps, 2 Pin. EL-12 - EL-12 Tridon Flasher | Translectric, Inc. The Heavy Duty Parts Pros


Has anyone verified this flasher relay above fits in the fuse box of the Fury?

This is also this one suggested.

This LED Flasher Relay unit is used when replacing incandescent bulb turn signals to LED turn signals. LED Flasher Relay allows LED turn signal to flash at stock rate.Big Bike Parts Part Number: 13-306 - Direct Line Parts

Mnfr. Part #: 13-306
Our Part #: BIG-13306
__________________
__________________

Proving the "bell" doesn't work 1 mile at a time since June 22nd 2009... 36k miles so far...
March 2010 FOTM<<<

Last edited by RedspawnSilver; 07-06-2010 at 05:34 PM.
RedspawnSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-06-2010, 11:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member

 
RedspawnSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,173
Default

Step 3: Removal of OEM front turn signals from your Fury

• Make sure key is not in the ignition and for safety reasons you can also disconnect your battery. (not always necessary, but some people like to just stick their key into the ignition or have kids that like to do that too… not good while fiddling with wires)
o**for those that are quick and dirty about this can skip some steps and cut the wire above the turn signal cover, but you will lose an inch or two worth of wire, which you may need later determining on your skill set, proceed to Part 3**
• Locate screw on bottom of turn signal bullet



o remove the screw
o remove the front cover from the turn signal
o push/twist and remove light
• Locate (2) #1 Phillips screws attached to grounding plate



o Remove screws
o Remove grounding plate with flat head screwdriver



• Locate wires coming from outside the turn signal casing (see note below)

**Note: if you saw one of my earlier posts about “an interesting free solution to triple tree” post, you may have loosened the cables already from the spiral wire holder, if not you should attempt to loosen the wires from the holder before proceeding. You will need a 10mm small wrench and either an 8mm wrench or 8mm driver in order to unbolt the housing from the triple tree to give yourself room to move the cables down off of the spiral holder. Post - Interesting free solution to triple tree

o On the outside of the casing, loosen the wire assembly that is entering through the hole in the turn signal case by using the flathead screwdriver to give the cable some breathing room and make a loop about a "quarter" width round will do.



o At the center of the round rubber piece where the wires are entering the casing, place the flat head screw driver on the ridged grommet and pry outwards (this is where the quarter width that we added will come in handy!)with a slight force against the casing in order to un-lodge the wires from the casing.
o Cut wires above the ridged rubber grommet, pull remainder of cable back up out of turn signal housing. Proceed to other side of bike and repeat Step 3 above.

__________________

Proving the "bell" doesn't work 1 mile at a time since June 22nd 2009... 36k miles so far...
March 2010 FOTM<<<

Last edited by RedspawnSilver; 01-16-2010 at 04:04 AM.
RedspawnSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2010, 11:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member

 
RedspawnSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,173
Default

Step 4: Installation

For those that are electrically inclined, here is a schematic just for you, so you can skip the explanation in step 4 –



• If you started on the left side of the bike, you should now see three wires ready for stripping; 2 orange 1 with red stripe, the other with red stripes and solid white line following the whole wire and 1 green wire. ** If you are on the right side of the bike, the wires will be blue, same stripping pattern from the text above steps**



o Strip back the black casing about to 1 inch in order to give yourself some room to play with.
o Proceed to strip wires about of an inch to 1/3' (you may want to strip them longer to fold the wires over to "bulk" up the wire inside of the terminal, always start short then go longer if needed), in order to install the male bullet terminals. The bullet terminals will allow an easier switch out to your LED install later with an upgrade or an addition. Also this is helpful for testing, although if you get the two orange or blue wires mixed up, it won’t matter… so long as you don’t mix up the easy green wire with them!



Now that you are done with both sides of the bike, you can now proceed to wiring up the LED’s to the dual element circuit. This part you can either do inside of your house, garage, etc. or by the Fury. This step can also be done before step 3 for those that are reading ahead.

Step 5: LED wiring hookup

• Using your small wire cutter, carefully crack (slightly!) the side the wires are coming out of the casing in order to allow the wires to lay flat against the triple tree on the bike.
• Fill in both ends of LED with either caulking or Chemiseal. This will be done for weather sealing your LED into the case and this would also be a good time to check for any cracks in the product.



• After the caulking or sealant has dried most of the way, proceed to use some small heat shrink about to 1” in length and slide it up both wires till you reach the caulking, proceed to use your trusty lighter or heat gun to shrink the heat shrink. This is used for distance for the next step and also to secure the wire together for a cleaner install.
• About 1” from the heat shrink cut the YELLOW cable on the LED wire assembly. Leave the Black cable stock length for now. ** If you screw this up and accidentally cut the black wire at this point, you can easily fix it with one of the blade splices, but it is not recommended as it will screw up the appearance of the following steps without some thought put into it!!!**
• Grab the red wire on the Dual Element Circuit and proceed to cut the single red cable (the side with only once cable coming out of the element) about 1” away from the factory heat shrink covering the element.
• Cut the little wing on the blade splice and using the blade splicer, proceed to connect the Yellow wire on the LED array to the Red wire on the Dual Element Circuit. Use the end of your cable crimper to push the blade all the way down onto the cables for a good connection.



• Using your electrical tape, proceed to tape up the blade splice completely along with the black wire running parallel to blade splice assembly.
• Using the correct size of heat shrink, you can now proceed to shrink it around the blade assembly for looks and further weather proofing.
• After this step, you should grab your heat shrink and protect the remaining area between the blade splice assembly and the led light taking in mind not to overlap the double sided tap on the LED array, but just enough to cover the end. (You can use some super glue here as well after shrinking the tape for further weather proofing)
• Your heat shrink and electrical tape should end about ” past the factory heat shrink on the Dual Element Circuit on the double sided wire end.
• This is where it gets a little tricky with the wires as they are about 22-24 ga. And are a little loose inside of the female bullet connectors.
o About 1 ” away from the end of where you stopped YOUR heat shrink on the double (now triple wired) end you should cut all three of your wires flush with each other.
o Strip the wires back about ” to ” as you will have to fold those back 2 or 3 times in order to fill the space inside of the terminal. (If you found some 24-28 ga. Terminals, this part should be easier for you.)
o Before attaching your bullet terminals, cut some short heat shrink to fill any obviously gaps between the dual element and your female bullets.
o Crimp the female bullet terminals onto the wires.

 If you do have issues with the smaller cables, you can cut off the male connectors that you attached earlier and just use the blade splices for all connections between the bike and the LED assembly.
__________________

Proving the "bell" doesn't work 1 mile at a time since June 22nd 2009... 36k miles so far...
March 2010 FOTM<<<

Last edited by RedspawnSilver; 01-16-2010 at 04:18 AM.
RedspawnSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2010, 11:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member

 
RedspawnSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,173
Default

Step 6: Connectorizing and Weather Proofing

You are almost done and will soon be lollipop free on your triple trees!


• Connect you the male bullet terminals to the female terminals.
Red wire from Dual Element Circuit will mate with the Stock Orange, Red and White wire, and the Orange wire from the Dual Element Circuit will mate with the Stock Orange, Red. Black wire from LED will mate with the Stock Green Wire. On the right side the the bike, just follow the same stripe pattern with the Stock Blue Wires as you did with the orange wires on the left side of the bike.



• Cover up any loose wire with some electrical tape and also some heat shrink. **You don’t want to take any chances here water will get in, so sometimes the more the merrier with the supplies you have for weather proofing**
• Clean the area you will be attaching the LED assembly to with some rubbing alcohol.
• Remove the double sided tap that is already attached to the LED assembly and attached to desired location on bike **If needed, use some more double sided tape if the tape from the factory doesn’t quite hold.
• Check again for any loose or wide open areas where rain may leak into your wiring assembly and make any adjustments, even use superglue or another type of sealer if need be to fill in open areas in your build.

You are done; step back and feel how uncluttered your triple tree’s are now and bask in the glory knowing you installed this yourself.

Here are the pics of the final install, and yes…. They are slightly crooked because I finished the install around 1030 at night, out in the open air & no garage.











Thanks for the read, feel free to leave any suggestions or comments or questions.
__________________

Proving the "bell" doesn't work 1 mile at a time since June 22nd 2009... 36k miles so far...
March 2010 FOTM<<<

Last edited by RedspawnSilver; 06-29-2010 at 09:38 AM.
RedspawnSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 02:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Steveo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: S.E. Kansas
Posts: 6,031
Default

That looks great! Thanks for the step by step instructions with pics. I wish more people on here would do that. It really helps.
Steveo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 05:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member

 
RedspawnSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,173
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveo View Post
That looks great! Thanks for the step by step instructions with pics. I wish more people on here would do that. It really helps.
Thanks for the compliment, appreciate it... Figured I would try to help as many people as possible in one shot BTW, it was easy straightening the LED's the next day when I got some light to see by.
__________________

Proving the "bell" doesn't work 1 mile at a time since June 22nd 2009... 36k miles so far...
March 2010 FOTM<<<
RedspawnSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 08:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member

 
RedspawnSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,173
Default

Oh, btw... I am planning a rear running light/brake/turn install within the next month or two with LED's, so stay tuned for more
__________________

Proving the "bell" doesn't work 1 mile at a time since June 22nd 2009... 36k miles so far...
March 2010 FOTM<<<
RedspawnSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2010, 09:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
695
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,970
Default

Operators are standing by...

Excellent job on the write up...
__________________
gone.. Admins please delete my membership.. see ya
695 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2010, 11:09 AM   #9 (permalink)
Super Moderator
 
chopped's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Ur girlfriends closet, NJ
Posts: 1,125
Default

Looks good. The Radiantz led strips are the ones used on the RAW kits.
__________________
2010 HONDA FURY MATTE SILVER SE #46
chopped is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2010, 11:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
CB Fury's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,028
Default

Looks good.... now stop playing around and lets go ride dumdum...
__________________
We Fight Because We Believe! Freedom + Peace = WAR!!! (see war is the answer)
CB Fury is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
© FuryForums.com
Motorcycle News, Videos and Reviews
Honda Grom Forum Harley Davidson Forum Honda 600RR Kawasaki Forum Yamaha R6 Forum Yamaha FZ-09 Forum
1199 Panigale Forum Roadglide Forum Honda CBR1000 Forum Vulcan Forum Yamaha R1 Forum Yamaha R3 Forum
Ducati Monster Forum Harley Forums Honda CBR250R Forum ZX10R Forum Star Raider Forum Yamaha Viking Forum
Suzuki GSXR Forum V-Rod Forums Honda Shadow Forum Kawasaki Motorcycle Forum Star Warrior Forum KTM Duke 390 Forum
SV650 Forum BMW S1000RR Forum Honda Fury Forum Kawasaki Versys Forum Drag Racing Forum Ducati 899 Panigale Forum
Suzuki V-Strom BMW K1600 Triumph Forum Victory Forums Sportbikes BMW NineT Forum
Volusia Forum BMW F800 Forum Triumph 675 Forum MV Agusta Forum HD Street Forum Suzuki GW250 Forum
Yamaha Motorcycles Victory Gunner Forum Honda Vultus Forum HD LiveWire Forum Ninja H2 Forum Ducati Scrambler Forum