Universal Sissy Bar Mod

[Shorty Steve]

Sissy Bar Mod

OK, there has been a lot of talk about the lack of options for sissy bars for the Fury.
I have read all of the threads and there are some good vender products and some really good member ideas out there.

So to add to the options (or confusion) here is mine.
The first mod I did was Corbin fairing and hard bags. When the stuff arrived, the mount system Corbin came up with seemed very simple and very effective.
And I thought that it could resolve the sissy bar issue. The following is a step by step of the process.

I have all of the manufacturing and installation details in a pdf available to ANY member that asks for it.

Material List:
ITEM QTY DIMENSION NOMENCLATURE
1 1 1/8 x 12 x 12 T-316 Stainless Steel Sheet or Mild Steel
2 1 1/4 x 6 x 6 Blanchard Ground Steel Plate
3 1 0.5 x 0.5 x 6.0 Square Stock Steel
4 4 12mm x 1.75 x 30 Stainless Allen Flat Head Screw
5 4 12mm x 1.75 x 20 Chrome or Stainless Button Head Screw
6 1 N/A Blue Loctite Thread Locker

Here are the raw materials I used.


Step 1 Cut 2 pieces of 1/4 inch thick plate steel per drawing, these are the mount plates.

Step 2 Drill to 2 holes per drawing to clear a 12mm flat head screw and counter sink.

Step 3 Drill 2 holes per drawing and tap 12mm x 1.75.

Step 4 Prime and paint or powder coat both pieces.


Step 5 Cut 2 pieces of ½ inch square stock 3 inches long per drawing, these are the spacers.

Step 6 Drill 2 holes in each to clear 12mm screws.


Step 7 Cut 2 pieces of 1/8 inch thick T-316 stainless sheet metal (you can use mild steel but it will have to be chrome plated or powder coated) per drawing, these are the side plates.

NOTE: This is going to be chromed or polished so cover both sides with masking tape to protect the surfaces. This will make it easier for the chrome platter or polisher if there are no scratches in the surface.

Step 8 Drill 2 holes per drawing to clear a 12mm button head screw.

Step 9 Round the edges inboard and outboard so the wife/girlfriend wont cut her A$$ and chew yours out.


Step 8 Remove the 5 screws holding on the rider and passenger seats and remove the rear fender, this is done with the 5mm allen wrench under the ignition switch cover.

Step 9 To keep the tail light sub-frame assembly aligned do one side at a time. Remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the tail light sub frame to the rear of the frame (KEEP these incase you want to go back to stock).


Attach the 1/4 plate to the outside of the frame with the counter sunk holes at top facing out and fasten in place with the 12mm flat head bolts (through the 1/4 plate then the frame and into the sub frame) and torque to 6 ft/lbs. repeat for other side.


Step 10 Replace the rear fender and reinstall the rear passenger seat screw to hold the fender in place.

Step 11 Install the side plate onto the mount plate with 2 12mm button head screws and ½ inch spacer. Hand tight only. You are looking for a 1/8 inch clearance between the side plate and the fender.

Step 12 Mark the side plate at the point where the fender starts to curve in. remove the side plate.


NOTE: Mark the side plate at 90° to edge of side plate, this will allow the side plate to bend at the same angle as the fender. See image below.



Continued in next post.

[Shorty Steve]

Step 13 In a SOFT jaw vice (you can place some scrape copper or aluminum into the vice to protect the side plate) clamp the side plate and a 3 inch diameter piece of rod or pipe. With a propane torch start heating the plate (you do NOT want to get it red hot just soften it a little). Bend the side plate over the pipe to about 40 degrees (this angle will be vary for each type of sissy bar as they have different widths at the bolt holes). Let the plates cool then reinstall onto the mount.

NOTE: If you are using an after market fender you may have to change the diameter of the pipe to match the radius of the fender.

Step 14 Place masking tape over the top of the plates and align the sissy bar to the seat. Mark the side plate at the outside of the sissy bar. Measure outward 3/16 inch (1/8 for the metal and 1/16 for the bend and mark the tape on both side plates).


Place the top of the side plate back into the soft jaw vice at the outer mark and bend the plate so that the mount holes and the part in the vice are both vertical. Repeat for other side plate.


Step 15 Measure the flat mounting surface of the sissy bar and measure from the bend up the same distance. Cut the side plate and round the edges.


NOTE: For those using mild steel send it out to the chrome platter or powder coater. When side plates return go to step 18.

For those using stainless steel continue as follows.

Step 16 Start sanding the side plates with 220 grit wet/dry paper and work you way down to 600 grit (do I need to say it? DO NOT to use an electric sander in the sink).

Step 17 Buff the side plates using at least 3 (course, medium and fine) grades of rouge until you get a mirror finish (use a thick pair of gloves, that metal is going to get blistering hot).

NOTE: I recommend using blue Loctite on all threads (don’t want this or the wife falling off on the road, or maybe you do).

NOTE: If you used the stainless steel bolts instead of chrome you may want to polish them (it’s a BLING thing).

Step 18 Mount the side plate to the mount I suggest using thin nylon washers between the bolt head and the side plate as well as the side plate and the spacers to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion. Mount the sissy bar to the side plates again using thin nylon washers under bolt heads and side plate to bar. Tighten the side plate to the mount and torque to 6 ft/lbs then tighten the sissy bar to 6 ft/lbs.

Now you can mount just about any after market sissy bar, and if you don’t like it you can remove it and put the old bolts back. Good as new.
Don’t that look hot!






Any questions or comments you can PM me or shoot me an email at steven.palmer@gdit.com

[cypress]

You have a one-of-a-kind Fury. I like the look. Custom for sure.

[J.A.T.O.]

GREaT WRITE UP. Thanks a million! I'm sure this will help a lot of members. I'm gonna try it out this week.

[Sea Dawg]

Need to get RSS to add this to FAQ as a link.....

[LesterDiamond]

My hat's off to ya.

[X_KIOWA_X]

very very nice, glad to see that you came up with something so quickly and it turned out great, thanks for sharing with the community, i'm sure that some out their will have the equipment, know how and time to do this.

[BarFury]

Very good, high-quality write-up, Steve. You are to be commended for both the quality of your presentation and the final, end-product of your fabrication skills; a hardy well done!

Cheers

[Dave Maher]

Very nice step by step write up that will be of great future help to many. Thanks for taking the time and sharing this with everyone.

[NMUCat]

Where did you get the material and what did you use to cut the pieces out?