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How To: Glen's VTX Garage - Clutch Pull Relief

42K views 91 replies 30 participants last post by  macxpert 
#1 ·
Decided to start a DIY on this topic to help others out a bit.

First and foremost, Glen sends very detailed instructions. This is not a thread implying anything other of the sort.

However, I think a few tips are in order to better clarify things.

First, if you want to see how things are assembled in a video, skip thru - as needed - to get past the unnecessary stuff (like the video of the envelope) in this video:


Secondly, know that when Greg's instructions (#3) states Use 8" adjustable wrench to turn the clurch arm and move the cable connector to the right side, you are not going to damage anything internal to the transmission. It will take some effort to twist that clutch so you can spin the cable connector to the right.

Finally, instruction #8 states, On most bikes the large hole int he cpr will not line up over the center of the stock clutch arm post. Additionally, after speaking to Greg on the phone, he mentioned that the downward tab adjacent to the large hole in the CPR should actually rest up against the spring itself. Therefore, I believe a picture or two is really in order, and so ...

BAD!


GOOD!!
 

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#3 ·
Thanks, St. Pete! I'm expecting mine in the mail any day now, this will help a ton.
 
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#5 ·
Great vid, but you left out the worst part. Breaking the rivet! If I could do it again, I may opt to dremel the head off the rivet. I used Glen's tool and really mangled the part that the clutch cable slides into.

Do you feel that the stock clutch cable is too long after this mod? I have mine adjusted almost all the way out on top and below.
 
#6 ·
Great vid, but you left out the worst part. Breaking the rivet! If I could do it again, I may opt to dremel the head off the rivet. I used Glen's tool and really mangled the part that the clutch cable slides into.

Do you feel that the stock clutch cable is too long after this mod? I have mine adjusted almost all the way out on top and below.
After replacing the bracket and bending the existing bracket to ensure the cable is straight from the opening to the cable connector, I didn't have to take out that much slack, at all.

And, I have just the right amount of play in the clutch lever but still get the clutch to disengage at a good spot.

The only issue I had was getting my Kury. cover back over the cable and, more precisely, over the existing bracket after bending it to ensure a straight line exit to the cable connector. But, I used the leverage of the Kury. cover screw to force the cover to bend as needed and to clear my dipstick.

PM me if you want to talk off-line and compare notes.
 
#8 ·
Just a note: Sent back the tools that came with the CPR kit via USPS 1st Class mail for about $2.10 and got my $10 refund from Glen's VTX Garage yesterday evening.

So, in all, that part was $27 ($25 and my $2 to ship the tools back). My clutch is so much more comfortable now!
 
#9 ·
Just installed this before heading to work... I have to say I was skeptic just after I installed it. But then I rode to work, much better, that tension is non existent now. I know longer have to fight the clutch while engaged.

I will be keeping the tool... so if anyone else is going to purchase this then let me know and I'll ship the tool out to ya. Very easy install.
 
#13 ·
took me 30min but I was being careful with the directions and check STPete's original post... Just make sure that rivet tool is dead center and you won't have any troubles at all.

If I were to do it again I would make markers for a starting point for the adjustment of the tension on the cable since I had to adjust it a couple of times to get it right. If I had marked where the original position was it wouldn't need all the re-adjustments I could have put it back to where it was originally and go from there.

Other than it it was a breeze
 
#14 ·
If I were to do it again I would make markers for a starting point for the adjustment of the tension on the cable since I had to adjust it a couple of times to get it right. If I had marked where the original position was it wouldn't need all the re-adjustments I could have put it back to where it was originally and go from there.

Other than it it was a breeze
Groovy! Thanks, man!
 
#15 ·
I so need to do this but, I am so not looking forward to taking off my Kury. Cover.
Did you have to re 3-M tape it or does it screw on (can't remember)?
 
#18 ·
Need a little help, please.

OK, it's been a few weeks now since I installed the CPR.
I found that I was having a hard time getting the transmission into neutral. But, if I reduced some of the slack with the clutch screw at the lever, it was behaving a lot better.

Problem, though!
I went to look into reducing the slack at the other end (engine end) of the clutch cable. When I removed my Kury. cover, I found that I was - in a resting state - keeping the clutch arm away from the engine, thus riding the clutch. This is not good.

Does anyone have a photo of how they're CPR is set up once completely and properly installed? I cannot seem to both (a) get out the slack, and (b) get enough pull on the clutch cable ... in order to disengage the clutch more cleanly.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Does anyone have a photo of how they're CPR is set up once completely and properly installed? I cannot seem to both (a) get out the slack, and (b) get enough pull on the clutch cable ... in order to disengage the clutch more cleanly.
Here's mine. I had the same problem getting into neutral but an adjustment at the lower end and it's fine now. Before and after pics attached.

The last pic shows the rivet about to pop off from dremeling for those that don't want to buy or rent the rivet remover. Nothing to it.

BTW, this was a well-spent $20. I'd say the clutch is considerably more than 50% easier to pull now. Highly recommended.
 

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#21 ·
ive had mine of for a year now. I was always concerned that the hole punched out in the after market lever never lined up over the clutch mech. But i have over 3k miles on with this mod, and no complaints.

And yes, i have found that the stock cable is maxed out on both ends with the adjustments you can make. Mine is about maxed on both ends .. but it still works, and the platinum cable just set the bike off.
 
#24 ·
Just got off the phone with Glen.

That gap IS normal.

The fine-tune adjustment nut at the hand lever should be wound in almost completely. When the nuts are adjusted at the engine-end of the cable, the play you should have in the hand-lever should cause the CPR to move a little before it starts to engage the internal plate/springs.

Also, the clutch will disengage better when the engine is cold and you may find more slack in the cable as the temperature of the bike increases throughout your ride.

Anyway, I made the adjustments at the engine-end of things, there's a little play in the hand-lever and I'll make any fine-tuning adjustments with the hand-lever nut if/when needed.

All's good in the 'hood!
 
#25 ·
CPR Install

Hi Guys,
Just did mine today and found out a couple of things already mentioned previously to be true. Removing the rivet with the rivet tool is not the best way to do it. Took me about 6 minutes to grind the top off the rivet with my Dremel-Tool and didn't have to worry about bending or breaking anything. Be sure to put a rag or something under the rivet to catch any filings.
Also have a Kury chrome cover which refuses to go back on right because of the new position of the cable. Finally got the bottom 2 screws in, but the upper one isn't even close.
If anyone has any ideas on the cover I would appreciate them. Otherwise, methinks a little grinding and bending may have to be performed. Wondering where and how.

Ride safe!!
Glenn
 
#27 ·
Hi Guys,
Just did mine today and found out a couple of things already mentioned previously to be true. Removing the rivet with the rivet tool is not the best way to do it. Took me about 6 minutes to grind the top off the rivet with my Dremel-Tool and didn't have to worry about bending or breaking anything. Be sure to put a rag or something under the rivet to catch any filings.
Also have a Kury chrome cover which refuses to go back on right because of the new position of the cable. Finally got the bottom 2 screws in, but the upper one isn't even close.
If anyone has any ideas on the cover I would appreciate them. Otherwise, methinks a little grinding and bending may have to be performed. Wondering where and how.

Ride safe!!
Glenn
I put duct tape under the dremel area sticky side up to catch shavings. The remainder I gathered up with a magnet.

The tube that connects each side of your Kury covers should move freely to adjust to the new position if the clutch side cover. At least mine did.
 
#26 ·
just installed mine today. my bolt that holds the side cover on was on REALLY good so i wound up almost striping the screw and adding a new scratch to my side cover. i marked the threads to their factory location with teflon tape. i had to remove the two bolts holding on the bracket with the rubber grommets for the side cover in order to get enough leverage to twist the lever out far enough to use the rivet popper. had some difficulty keeping the lever in the wrench so it snapped back with the rivet tool on it a couple of times and nicked my case (nothing major just alittle surface nick). once i figured out how to hold the wrench and work the pop tool it worked great. i pulled the lever out to the extent of where you had to use the wrench force to move the lever and then reconnected my clutch cable at that setting. just a slight bit of play, but clutch fully disengages and engages somewhere about mid pull. never adjusted the handle bar adjustment.

over all works great and i can barely feel the clutch tension now. should make my 3 times a week random hurry up and stop rides to work nicer.
 
#30 ·
Yes Briuns Win! Sorry had to get that out there. Not to highjack but I would like to add to this thread I have the rivet removal tool for anyone in need. Just send me a pm but I highly recomend this mod to anyone who doesn't have it. Go Bruins.! :)
 
#31 ·
Yes Briuns Win! Sorry had to get that out there. Not to highjack but I would like to add to this thread I have the rivet removal tool for anyone in need. Just send me a pm but I highly recomend this mod to anyone who doesn't have it. Go Bruins.! :)
Freakin' Gooins (Goons).
Chara is Andre the Giant returned from the grave :p
 
#38 ·
Finally getting around to let everyone know that all is well!! Everything fits properly and the mod is well worth the $$$$. My thanks to Glen for coming up with the idea!!
Couldn't agree more. After reading this thread I ordered mine. Got it today and installed it in no time. Got to adjust the clutch lever a little more to make it perfect but the mod works great and for sure worth the money.
 
#40 ·
Because my clutch lifter arm at zero free play was positioned 90° to the longitudinal axis of the bike rather than ≈ 85° per Glen's set up I had to modify the supplied clutch pull relief arm. Without modification the arm was touching the transmission case boss at zero free play. I increased the offset by 1/4" to gain enough free play clearance to allow for future clutch wear and the corresponding reduction in free play.


Make sure you have clearance to the transmission case boss as shown in the pics.
 
#41 ·
Because my clutch lifter arm at zero free play was positioned 90° to the longitudinal axis of the bike rather than ≈ 85° per Glen's set up I had to modify the supplied clutch pull relief arm. Without modification the arm was touching the transmission case boss at zero free play. I increased the offset by 1/4" to gain enough free play clearance to allow for future clutch wear and the corresponding reduction in free play.


Make sure you have clearance to the transmission case boss as shown in the pics.
Make sure you're NOT expecting to center that large hole over the center-point of the clutch arm's pivot point. You should press the left downward tab of the CPR up against the spring, pressing as far to the right as possible, before cinching down the nut/bolt that replaces the OEM rivet you removed.
 
#50 · (Edited)
Concern is a good thing :). If I'm wrong Alan you need to get over to the gym and find a personal trainer to help you with your grip :D. If I'm right just copy my mod to Glen's CPR. 1/4" additional offset is all you need.

Clutch life depends on you. Since I fixed these mechanical contraptions for a living and taught kids and techs how stuff works I have too much respect for the machinery to abuse it. I have never worn out a clutch and my 22 year old like new 4x4 (only 120K miles) still has it's first clutch and we'll all go to our maker intact.

Our Furys have a ball bearing between the clutch lifter rod and the pressure plate and springs. The rod is activated by the clutch lever which we have adorned with Glen's CPR.

Normally I still get $50/HR (except now it's cash) so you're into me for well over $100 :p. Best you take that money and pay a welder to mod your CPR and use the rest for beer or put it aside for an expensive clutch replacement not to mention the possibility of engine oil contamination and related consequences. Honestly, I don't think I'm exaggerating ;). If credibility is an issue check out my public profile :eek:.
 
#55 ·
BTW, do you have the OEM levers, or did you replace them?
I have the AmeriEagle Flame levers.

Also, did you replace the clutch cable, or do you have the original one?
I have the original and a few of us notice a lot of slack after installing the CPR.
 
#58 ·
Gar, has Glen from vtx garage changed this design as of today? or possibly in the future? It would be great if he used yours as a template.
When I last spoke to him a year and a half ago not that many of us had converted to the CPR and I think most assumed all was well since their clutch was working well as did mine with the initial installation. Because of my engineering background I questioned the amount of clearance, in my case none, so I fixed that issue. Again, initially, the clutch was OK but I was concerned with the lack of adjustment available to compensate for wear. I assumed my situation was an anomaly and Glen said he had seen a few only on the VTX.

After reading Alan's thoughtful thread I begin to wonder if many more are facing this clearance issue. Based on Alan's comments regarding recent conversations with Glen it appears that Glen hasn't felt the need for another design and I'm sure he has sold hundreds of these CPR accessories.

We should wait until Alan gets back to us on his inspection of the clutch free-play at the transmission end. If his is a problem, or even it it isn't, the rest of you with CPR should also do the inspection. Next step: take a poll of how much free-play each of you has next to the transmission case boss. Since Alan has a large following I think he'd be the one to do the honors. If there are others and the numbers are significant then you could ask Glen to make one specifically for the affected bikes. If it's just one or two, simply cut and weld as I did. Glen did offer to rectify my problem but it just wasn't practical for me since it was quicker to fix it on the spot.
 
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