Decided to start a DIY on this topic to help others out a bit.
First and foremost, Glen sends very detailed instructions. This is not a thread implying anything other of the sort.
However, I think a few tips are in order to better clarify things.
First, if you want to see how things are assembled in a video, skip thru - as needed - to get past the unnecessary stuff (like the video of the envelope) in this video:
Secondly, know that when Greg's instructions (#3) states Use 8" adjustable wrench to turn the clurch arm and move the cable connector to the right side, you are not going to damage anything internal to the transmission. It will take some effort to twist that clutch so you can spin the cable connector to the right.
Finally, instruction #8 states, On most bikes the large hole int he cpr will not line up over the center of the stock clutch arm post. Additionally, after speaking to Greg on the phone, he mentioned that the downward tab adjacent to the large hole in the CPR should actually rest up against the spring itself. Therefore, I believe a picture or two is really in order, and so ...
Great vid, but you left out the worst part. Breaking the rivet! If I could do it again, I may opt to dremel the head off the rivet. I used Glen's tool and really mangled the part that the clutch cable slides into.
Do you feel that the stock clutch cable is too long after this mod? I have mine adjusted almost all the way out on top and below.
Great vid, but you left out the worst part. Breaking the rivet! If I could do it again, I may opt to dremel the head off the rivet. I used Glen's tool and really mangled the part that the clutch cable slides into.
Do you feel that the stock clutch cable is too long after this mod? I have mine adjusted almost all the way out on top and below.
After replacing the bracket and bending the existing bracket to ensure the cable is straight from the opening to the cable connector, I didn't have to take out that much slack, at all.
And, I have just the right amount of play in the clutch lever but still get the clutch to disengage at a good spot.
The only issue I had was getting my Kury. cover back over the cable and, more precisely, over the existing bracket after bending it to ensure a straight line exit to the cable connector. But, I used the leverage of the Kury. cover screw to force the cover to bend as needed and to clear my dipstick.
PM me if you want to talk off-line and compare notes.
... you left out the worst part. Breaking the rivet!
BTW, I just made perfectly sure the rivet tool was lined up dead-center of the rivet head since I couldn't see well underneath. Just make sure the tool is straight up-n-down AND the pin of the tool is depressing the rivet head dead-center.
Just a note: Sent back the tools that came with the CPR kit via USPS 1st Class mail for about $2.10 and got my $10 refund from Glen's VTX Garage yesterday evening.
So, in all, that part was $27 ($25 and my $2 to ship the tools back). My clutch is so much more comfortable now!
Just installed this before heading to work... I have to say I was skeptic just after I installed it. But then I rode to work, much better, that tension is non existent now. I know longer have to fight the clutch while engaged.
I will be keeping the tool... so if anyone else is going to purchase this then let me know and I'll ship the tool out to ya. Very easy install.
How To: Glen's VTX Garage - Clutch Pull Relief
Linear Mode
