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Forward controls

13K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  Kbuskill 
#1 ·
I am a cheap bastard.

I don’t think I could bring myself to pay $1000 for forward controls.

Now, I am just starting to look at this, but my initial reaction to what I am seeing is this.
1. Make adapter plates that would bolt to the existing mounts but in a forward position and have the bolt pattern to attach the stock peg plates to.
2. Make or modify the stock brake pedal to reach the new location.
3. Make a longer linkage to reach the shifter.

Making the parts I need is not an issue, but mechanically, am I over simplifying this? Is there something I am not taking into consideration ?
 
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#3 ·
I guess that proves the feasibility of the concept.
Close enough to start doing the actual manufacturing drawings.

I wont be doing as much cutting and welding though. It should be almost all bolt on. The only cutting I foresee is to cut the end of the brake off to extend the lever.
 
#6 ·
I am making some already. I got peg mount plates,(blanks) from Evo, and are having some more made so that i can move the peg holes anywhere I want. The only thing is as you've said cutting and adjusting the brake lever.

Tigger
 
#7 ·
My brake pedal. Used 1/4" steel to extend it. Had it welded on, then rechromed. To extend my clutch linkage, my buddy cut a piece of push rod from a 351 Windsor, tapped one end, and threaded the other. He said it was easier than trying to weld an extension on it. You'll have to bend the linkage just slightly so it will clear the bottom case without rubbing. You'll see what I mean when you get to that point. You can also see the HD peg mounts I used.
 

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#8 ·
1. Make adapter plates that would bolt to the existing mounts but in a forward position and have the bolt pattern to attach the stock peg plates to.
2. Make or modify the stock brake pedal to reach the new location.
3. Make a longer linkage to reach the shifter.

Making the parts I need is not an issue, but mechanically, am I over simplifying this? Is there something I am not taking into consideration ?
MFR did exactly this 5 years ago ...



Many of these were sold to other members since it was a simple bolt on once MFR had done the fabrication. Personally, since Honda mounted the stock pegs 2½" rearward from their mount on the frame it didn't look right to me using another plate to move them forward again to the frame mounts so I simply moved only the peg and hinge forward for the same result and a clean factory look. The plates, although trimmed a bit, remain for heat shield and shift mount. No need to bend the shift rod or extend the brake lever. The trick to not bending the shift rod is in reducing the bends of the shift lever below the relocated pivot thereby lengthening and kicking it out a bit for clearance. You can also reset the small splined lever at the rear end of the shift rod for more adjustment range (thanks Ken ;)).

My Factory X Forwards are just perfect for my 32" inseam and the best part is better control since I can now operated the shorter levers with just a twist of my ankles while not lifting my feet off the pegs :co-ol:.


More info here: 2½" Forwards for the Cost of Chrome
 
#9 ·
You can also reset the small splined lever at the rear end of the shift rod for more adjustment range (thanks Ken ;)).

You are quite welcome Sir, always glad to help.

And thank you for the great write up on extending the forward controls without breaking the bank. I love the way you did them because to the untrained eye it looks like it would have came that way... I was never a big fan of the aftermarket forwards that let everything hang way out in front of the frame so this was perfect for me. It was one of the best mods, as far as comfort goes, that I have done to date.:co-ol:
 
#11 ·
Looking at these pictures again I just noticed.... Where did he put the horn? did he mention that in his mod write-up ?
 
#15 · (Edited)
Metalcutter, what's the hold up, you need to shit forwards or get off the pot. You and I PMed on forwards a while back if I recall. Just ask Ken, it should be a walk in the park for a guy with your skills and resources, not to mention your username! A little cutting, a little welding, drill one hole and assemble. You could do the cutting and have someone else weld it. A couple of hours work and you should be done already. The hard work of figuring where to cut and where to weld has done for you. A case of beer should cover the welding. Paint or chrome, it's your money.

 

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#16 ·
Metalcutter, what's the hold up, you need shit forwards or get off the pot. You and I PMed on forwards a while back if I recall. Just ask Ken, it should be a walk in the park for a guy with your skills and resources, not to mention your username! A little cutting, a little welding, drill one hole and assemble. You could do the cutting and have someone else weld it. A couple of hours work and you should be done already. The hard work of figuring where to cut and where to weld has done for you. A case of beer should cover the welding. Paint or chrome, it's your money.


Damn. I'd like to move my brake pedal some. I missed this post.
 
#20 · (Edited)
For the record, I am a cheap bastard as well and I was able to follow Gar's method of extending the forwards out for about $20(paid a local muffler shop to weld them for me) + paint and my time. I made the necessary cuts and had the muffler shop weld them up then I sand blasted all the chrome and used self etching primer and then matte black paint. I wanted black controls anyway so it was a win win for me. Very easy to do thanks to Gar's write up.


 

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#21 · (Edited)
... extending the forwards out for about $20 (paid a local muffler shop to weld them for me) + paint ...
Can't say I recall having seen pics of your extended forwards Ken (oldtimer's :sleeping:).
WoW :toast: looks factory with better visual balance if you have the leg for it, LoL.

I notice your toe pedals are original. I shortened mine to 1¾" to make more room on the foot peg for my boots and allow my feet their natural stance :co-ol:. In my case that natural stance means the sole of my boot lies right beside the end of each toe peg. Now moving the ball of my foot slightly up and over either toe peg (down and under as well for the shifter) requires a minimal movement as good as on a sport bike
 
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