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T mod, Who did it?

9K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  hitmanheutel 
#1 · (Edited)
I would like to know if many of you did it. Do you like ? What would you do different ?

THanks. ��

:moto3:
 
#3 · (Edited)
T-Mod 2.0. Cut as far forward as possible. No unwanted stress in fender or seat.
Only a modest 40 mm (1 5/8") drop, still very noticeable.

What you need to consider is how wide a rear tyre/rim you will eventually go. If you want to install anything wider than a 240 tyre on a 7.5" rim , you need to widen the fender frame anyway. The best approach is to replace the tubal fender frame for a solid 6mm plate structure and make the drop at the same time.
Night Fury has done it this way and has lots of pics of the process. This will give clearance for a 250 tyre under the stock fender.



The yellow thing in the background is my '63 Land Rover. Search the "My Other Projects" thread for more info.
 

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#6 · (Edited)
If you cut between the frame doubler and the 3/8" hole the ratio is 1 : 10.
So if you remove 1/4" the rear of the fender will drop 10/4" (2 1/2")

On my bike I removed 5/32" for a 50/32" drop ( 1 9/16")


Put masking tape on the area where you want to make the cut.
With a sharp pencil draw a line square to the bottom edge of the tube.
Mark where the flat side area bends to form the top, where the factory weld for the doubler runs.
Drill a 3/32"pilot hole there. Mark the other sides the same way. 4 times total.
At the bottom of the tube mark the basis of the pie shape cut. Mark half in front of the square line, half aft of it. This makes angle equal and gives the smoothest transition between frame and subframe. So in your case mark 1/8 in front and 1/8 aft of the square line.
From these marks, draw a line to the 3/32 pilot hole. These lines are your cut marks.
A Sawzall does a great job on this. Cut a total of 4 lines trying to stay within the marked lines.
Bend the rear frame down until everything looks like you want to.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, to keep your electronics happy !
Clean the weld area thouroughly. Remove paint down to bare metal to avoid contamination of the weld.
Use whatever weld method you are happy with.
After cool down and clean up touch up the paint.



DONE :co-ol:
 

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#10 ·
You're welcome !

Looks like you´ve got some garageskills, so now you need to do that other cheap mod to clean up the tank/seat area.
That piece of seat over the tank really has to go.
Yes, this VVVVV used to be a stock seat. The black mark from the seat rubber is still on the protective plastic.
 

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#12 ·

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#13 ·
#16 ·
I had the rear fender off yesterday and took some pics to clarify my earlier postings.
First you want to locate where you want to make the cut. There's a rubber that keeps the fender from moving inward (pic1).

Remove that rubber. Put some masking tape over the area and mark one line square to the bottom of the frame tube and mark the top pilot hole, just below the excisting weld on the frame (pic2).


Decide how far you want the rear lip of the fender to drop. Remember the 10:1 drop ratio, so a 2 1/2"drop = 10/4, meaning you want to remove 1/4" out of the frame tube. From the square line, mark 1/8"to the front of it and 1/8" aft. Draw lines from these marks to to the center of the pilot hole (pic3).


Repeat this on the other 3 sides of the frame tubes.
Drill the pilot holes. Cut from the bottom of the tube towards the pilotholes, stay within your marked area. Bend the frame down. Remove masking tape. Remove paint to avoid weld contamination. Weld. Touch up the paint. Insert rubber. Install fender and seat. Go RIDE :co-ol:
 

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#18 ·
If your seat has those studs on the rear end and the front has hooks that tuck under the frame crossmember like the original seat has, I guess you'll be okay when using the above described method.
In said method the seat mounting points on the fender remain in their position. Only the distance between the fender holes and the crossmember will increase some, maybe 3/16 to 1/4". This will be covered by the hooks up front as they will just slide under the crossmember.
 

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