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Fury won't start

3K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  Goat 
#1 ·
So my fury sat for a while and now I cant get it to start. It was running perfectly when I parked it. It has spark, compression and the fuel pump primes. I think I narrowed it down to the injectors not firing. I pulled one out and there was fuel behind it, but it never fired while cranking. I checked the fuses i know about but there are probably more somewhere. Relay maybe?
Its a 2010 and Ive done the fuel filter upgrade.

Do any of the safety switches cut the fuel injectors? I have power on one side of the injectors. I have a cobra tuner but its the same with or without it connected.

I don't know what else would shut down the injectors other than a bad computer or maybe the fuel pressure is too low? Any help would be appreciated before I send it to a mechanic.

Thanks
 
#2 · (Edited)
Your injectors may be stuck from setting. Get a universal noid lite and test the pattern on the injector harness.:smile: It is not a good thing to use a 12 volt test light on a ecm harness. Your injectors have fire on the hot side while the key is on and fire off the negative side of the ecm.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Your injectors may be stuck from setting. Get a universal noid lite and test the pattern on the injector harness.:smile: It is not a good thing to use a 12 volt test light on a ecm harness. Your injectors have fire on the hot side while the key is on and fire off the negative side of the ecm.
Excellent tip!!! Thank you!



I think the Seafoam is the only thing that saved me after letting my bike sit for over a year without running. Hopefully it'll start up a little easier this time in a few weeks.
With all the time it sat in the shed you better start charging the battery now...


:flamebike:
 
#3 ·
You were right about the injectors being stuck. Tapped them with a screwdriver and it started up but ran a little rough so I took them both out and tapped them on the ground a few times. Now shes running perfect.

Should I worry about the injectors sticking again? assuming I don't let the bike sit without running for so long again.

thanks again 460brevill
 
#16 ·
Or, you could buy a better charger...LOL


Want to know more about why we're running an AGM battery and how to maintain it?

Battery University-201: How does the Lead Acid Battery Work?

BU-201a: Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM)

AGM has very low internal resistance and is able to deliver high currents on demand, offers a relatively long service life even when deep cycled, is maintenance free, provides good electrical reliability, and is lighter than the flooded lead acid type. While regular lead acid batteries need a topping charge every six months to prevent the buildup of sulfation, AGM batteries are less prone to sulfation and can sit in storage for longer before a charge becomes necessary. The battery stands up well to low temperatures and has a low self-discharge.

AGM charges up to five times faster than flooded and offers 80% depth-of-discharge (flooded is 50%). AGM is the preferred battery for upscale motorcycles because it's sealed reducing acid spilling in an accident, lowers the weight for the same performance, and allows installation at odd angles. AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages).
 
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