I figured I'd post this up for other members on the forum in the future if you're considering purchasing these.
I'm not going to go into detail on the full install, the instructions are straight forward and downloadable.
Here's the link: Refined Cycle FC20 Fury Installation Instructions
First off, this kit is the most budget friendly out there for our bikes, at this time. That's a good thing as some forward controls are up in the $7-$800+ range.
The other nice thing is that it is engineered to be a bolt on kit, no bleeding of the brakes, relocating master cylinder, etc. This was my main draw to them.
All of the pieces came neatly wrapped in newspaper and taped. Somehow though, the hardware bag had exploded in the box, even though it was newspaper wrapped and taped as well. So I had to go hunting for nuts and bolts. No biggie.
The pedals and brackets are all aluminum. This probably is why the cost is lower than other forward controls. They are very light feeling in a hand. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but if you ever tipped the bike or anything, kiss them goodbye. This would happen for most controls anyway, steel, aluminum, or other.
There is a rocker arm linkage (ARM 18) that has some welding on it, the TIG welds all looked really nice.
The hardware I was underwhelmed with. Most of us are used to stainless or alloy hardware. I could not put a finger on what the hardware was. It didn't feel as light as aluminum hardware, but it certainly wasn't the quality of stainless that we're used to getting from somewhere like Fastenal. The threads had imperfections on them. I tried installing a couple of things dry and there was some serious galling going on. So have plenty of lube for assembly.
Refined has 3 options on their site. "Chrome", "Satin", or "Gloss" (the latter 2 are powdercoating). Since the pieces are aluminum, I'm not sure if the chrome is actually
chrome plate, or if the bits are put in a hopper with a fine grit media and spun around until the aluminum is very polished to mimic a chrome look. If that is the case (polished) then expect to be using aluminum polish every once in a while on rub areas. If not then you get a chromed part and all is good.
I went with a satin powdercoat finish. I wanted a matte color to match the rest of what I have going on since none of my black is technically glossy.
I'll say it up front, if you're wanting black, skip the satin finish and go for the glossy. It is much more durable of a finish than the satin. My satin powdercoating chipped around all the bolt heads even with a very light torque. I'm venturing that I'm going to have to pull the pieces and paint again because once that chipping starts, it's inevitable that it's going to keep going.
You can see this durability first hand between the horseshoe bracket that holds the horn (shift/drive side) and the rest of the powdercoating (satin). The horseshoe bracket comes stock with a glossy powdercoat. Just having them in your hand it's easy to tell. I tested this first hand on accident when I dropped the horseshoe bracket on my concrete garage floor and the coating sustained no damage. On the other satin powdercoated bits, if you breathe on them wrong (metaphor....) they will chip.
Refer to the manual link I posted, but I'll lay out the things that helped me during install that the instructions don't cover. They are very thorough though!
Hardware. Make sure to use grease on everything to prevent galling of the hardware. On installation nuts that don't
have a lock washer, use some sort of loctite. DO NOT over torque any of the bolts. Snug and then a bit more, let the lock nuts/blue loctite do it's job. The hardware just didn't feel like it could hold a good amount of torque, plus, the pieces are aluminum and you could damage them.
First off was the ARM 18 (brake master cylinder link). You re-use your old clevis pin inserted into the hole of the ARM 18 link. That didn't fit. It's a waterjet hole. There was too much taper in the hole. I had to open that up with a drill bit until is was a slip fit with the clevis pin. This likely won't be an issue in the future.
Next was installing onto the brake pedal stud. Instructions at one point tell you to push it in as far as it will go after the seals (you re-use your old brake pedal seals), OEM washer, and c-clip.
If you do this, this is what you will see (note the gap...there shouldn't be a gap):
At this point I was frustrated and thought that the width of the arm18 bracket was incorrect, because I had the arm18 install all the way on the stud! At this point though the master cylinder was not bolted back in, nor was the heavy duty return spring back into its stock position (on the bracket bike side, not the ARM18 hole). When you actually position the spring back into it's original spot (the "knucklebuster" operation as Refined instructions call it) everything kind of self-aligns. Technically
though this ARM18 can
be pushed onto the stud further, but this is not how it's supposed to sit. There will be no gap in the photo above when it self aligns and is sitting correctly after the spring is put back into the original configuration.
The next word of advise comes with inserting the brake pedal spring into the small clevis pin provided in the kit for ARM18. Do yourself a favor and loosen up that plastic nut that adjust the spring tension all the way for the brake pedal. If you don't do this off the bat it's really hard to get that spring into the clevis pin.
There are a series of bushing sets (3) that need to be installed for rotating parts. Lots of grease on these. 2 of the sets go in the pedal brackets on each side. After you tighten the pedal brackets on, you'll notice that they don't rotate as freely as you'd like. Ie they hang up. What you want to do is grab the pedal arm and while not allowing it to rotate, push and pull it towards the bike then away from it (basically rock it in and out). BE CAREFUL you do not want to bend the aluminum arms! This will "align" the bushings in the arm bore and they will spin nice and free after that. I will repeat, these arms will flex, they are not steel. Be aware of that during this step.
The one other thing I ran into is with the brake side rod link connection at the center of the pedal arm (attachment point). I'm using a clevis type peg, so the clevis is installed on the arm and then the pedal will attach to that. I didnt have my pedals last night, so I just installed the clevis. The 1/2 clevis bolt comes with a lock washer that goes on the backside. I didn't tighten the clevis down all the way since I didn't know what orientation that the clevis would need to be in for the pedals, but the spherical rod arm assembly was coming in contact with the clevis bolt head on the back side. Granted, it wasn't torqued down all the way, but I'm going to space the rod end at the pedal arm out with a couple more washers to give it some breathing room. Which means I'm going to have to go with a longer bolt at that location. It will also reduce the incoming angle of the spherical rod end to the pedal arm.
Edit: I forgot this one the first time around. At the end of the instructions, you have to clock the horn to a different position and install it onto the horseshoe bracket. It is tricky to get in there because of clearance. You need an open end wrench on the backside, inserting it from the front side of the bike. If you don't do it this way, the wrench head will interfere with the other nut from the linkage arm and it will just spin. You also have to come in with a long allen key from the side next to the horn. It's ideal if you have a long allen key set that you can adapt onto a ratchet.
I'm sorry there are no pictures, I will post some up in the next couple of days so you all can see it on the bike, as well as some of the pieces I'm talking about.
Once it's all buttoned up, review time!