Refined Cycle FC20 Forward Controls, Installation Tips and Review - Honda Fury Forums: Honda Chopper Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-09-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Refined Cycle FC20 Forward Controls, Installation Tips and Review

I figured I'd post this up for other members on the forum in the future if you're considering purchasing these.

I'm not going to go into detail on the full install, the instructions are straight forward and downloadable.

Here's the link: Refined Cycle FC20 Fury Installation Instructions

First off, this kit is the most budget friendly out there for our bikes, at this time. That's a good thing as some forward controls are up in the $7-$800+ range.

The other nice thing is that it is engineered to be a bolt on kit, no bleeding of the brakes, relocating master cylinder, etc. This was my main draw to them.

All of the pieces came neatly wrapped in newspaper and taped. Somehow though, the hardware bag had exploded in the box, even though it was newspaper wrapped and taped as well. So I had to go hunting for nuts and bolts. No biggie.

The Parts:

The pedals and brackets are all aluminum. This probably is why the cost is lower than other forward controls. They are very light feeling in a hand. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but if you ever tipped the bike or anything, kiss them goodbye. This would happen for most controls anyway, steel, aluminum, or other.

There is a rocker arm linkage (ARM 18) that has some welding on it, the TIG welds all looked really nice.

The hardware I was underwhelmed with. Most of us are used to stainless or alloy hardware. I could not put a finger on what the hardware was. It didn't feel as light as aluminum hardware, but it certainly wasn't the quality of stainless that we're used to getting from somewhere like Fastenal. The threads had imperfections on them. I tried installing a couple of things dry and there was some serious galling going on. So have plenty of lube for assembly.

The Finish:

Refined has 3 options on their site. "Chrome", "Satin", or "Gloss" (the latter 2 are powdercoating). Since the pieces are aluminum, I'm not sure if the chrome is actually chrome plate, or if the bits are put in a hopper with a fine grit media and spun around until the aluminum is very polished to mimic a chrome look. If that is the case (polished) then expect to be using aluminum polish every once in a while on rub areas. If not then you get a chromed part and all is good.

I went with a satin powdercoat finish. I wanted a matte color to match the rest of what I have going on since none of my black is technically glossy.

I'll say it up front, if you're wanting black, skip the satin finish and go for the glossy. It is much more durable of a finish than the satin. My satin powdercoating chipped around all the bolt heads even with a very light torque. I'm venturing that I'm going to have to pull the pieces and paint again because once that chipping starts, it's inevitable that it's going to keep going.

You can see this durability first hand between the horseshoe bracket that holds the horn (shift/drive side) and the rest of the powdercoating (satin). The horseshoe bracket comes stock with a glossy powdercoat. Just having them in your hand it's easy to tell. I tested this first hand on accident when I dropped the horseshoe bracket on my concrete garage floor and the coating sustained no damage. On the other satin powdercoated bits, if you breathe on them wrong (metaphor....) they will chip.

Install Tips:

Refer to the manual link I posted, but I'll lay out the things that helped me during install that the instructions don't cover. They are very thorough though!

Hardware. Make sure to use grease on everything to prevent galling of the hardware. On installation nuts that don't have a lock washer, use some sort of loctite. DO NOT over torque any of the bolts. Snug and then a bit more, let the lock nuts/blue loctite do it's job. The hardware just didn't feel like it could hold a good amount of torque, plus, the pieces are aluminum and you could damage them.

First off was the ARM 18 (brake master cylinder link). You re-use your old clevis pin inserted into the hole of the ARM 18 link. That didn't fit. It's a waterjet hole. There was too much taper in the hole. I had to open that up with a drill bit until is was a slip fit with the clevis pin. This likely won't be an issue in the future.

Next was installing onto the brake pedal stud. Instructions at one point tell you to push it in as far as it will go after the seals (you re-use your old brake pedal seals), OEM washer, and c-clip.

If you do this, this is what you will see (note the gap...there shouldn't be a gap):



At this point I was frustrated and thought that the width of the arm18 bracket was incorrect, because I had the arm18 install all the way on the stud! At this point though the master cylinder was not bolted back in, nor was the heavy duty return spring back into its stock position (on the bracket bike side, not the ARM18 hole). When you actually position the spring back into it's original spot (the "knucklebuster" operation as Refined instructions call it) everything kind of self-aligns. Technically though this ARM18 can be pushed onto the stud further, but this is not how it's supposed to sit. There will be no gap in the photo above when it self aligns and is sitting correctly after the spring is put back into the original configuration.

The next word of advise comes with inserting the brake pedal spring into the small clevis pin provided in the kit for ARM18. Do yourself a favor and loosen up that plastic nut that adjust the spring tension all the way for the brake pedal. If you don't do this off the bat it's really hard to get that spring into the clevis pin.

There are a series of bushing sets (3) that need to be installed for rotating parts. Lots of grease on these. 2 of the sets go in the pedal brackets on each side. After you tighten the pedal brackets on, you'll notice that they don't rotate as freely as you'd like. Ie they hang up. What you want to do is grab the pedal arm and while not allowing it to rotate, push and pull it towards the bike then away from it (basically rock it in and out). BE CAREFUL you do not want to bend the aluminum arms! This will "align" the bushings in the arm bore and they will spin nice and free after that. I will repeat, these arms will flex, they are not steel. Be aware of that during this step.

The one other thing I ran into is with the brake side rod link connection at the center of the pedal arm (attachment point). I'm using a clevis type peg, so the clevis is installed on the arm and then the pedal will attach to that. I didnt have my pedals last night, so I just installed the clevis. The 1/2 clevis bolt comes with a lock washer that goes on the backside. I didn't tighten the clevis down all the way since I didn't know what orientation that the clevis would need to be in for the pedals, but the spherical rod arm assembly was coming in contact with the clevis bolt head on the back side. Granted, it wasn't torqued down all the way, but I'm going to space the rod end at the pedal arm out with a couple more washers to give it some breathing room. Which means I'm going to have to go with a longer bolt at that location. It will also reduce the incoming angle of the spherical rod end to the pedal arm.

Edit: I forgot this one the first time around. At the end of the instructions, you have to clock the horn to a different position and install it onto the horseshoe bracket. It is tricky to get in there because of clearance. You need an open end wrench on the backside, inserting it from the front side of the bike. If you don't do it this way, the wrench head will interfere with the other nut from the linkage arm and it will just spin. You also have to come in with a long allen key from the side next to the horn. It's ideal if you have a long allen key set that you can adapt onto a ratchet.

I'm sorry there are no pictures, I will post some up in the next couple of days so you all can see it on the bike, as well as some of the pieces I'm talking about.

Once it's all buttoned up, review time!
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Last edited by krashDH; 05-10-2019 at 02:26 PM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-09-2019, 02:16 PM
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Thanks for taking the time! I just bought a set as well, i'm considering paying someone else to install this, it looks a bit outside my privy of knowledge, and time.
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MrWagner - 2016 Honda Fury - Matte Grey (No ABS)
| Cobra Swept Exhaust | Daymaker Headlight | Cannella Risers | Refined Cycle Extended Controls |
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-09-2019, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWagner View Post
Thanks for taking the time! I just bought a set as well, i'm considering paying someone else to install this, it looks a bit outside my privy of knowledge, and time.
If you can unbolt things, then righty-tighty/lefty-loosey, don't waste your money on someone else to do it! You can put that money to more mods. It took me probably 2 hours, that's with a couple of whiskey breaks as well! That reminds me of another thing to mention I need to update my first post!
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-10-2019, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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They're all installed. Ill post a few teaser pics up tomorrow!
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-10-2019, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Photos As I Promised

Threads like these are worth nothing without photos right?

Well here we go

Here's the ARM 18, where all the magic happens on the brake side. This is what replaces your brake pedal:





Here's the spherical rod end assy that connects ARM18 to the brake pedal arm. Do note that I added some extra washers around the black spacer (the instructions tell you to use 1 on each side) to move the spherical end away a bit more from the arm. This relaxed the incoming angle of the rod end assembly and gave me more clearance to my peg clevis bolt head:



A close up shot of the assembly:



On the drive side, you can see the OEM shifter linkage and new rod ends connected to the drive side link that's shaped like a teardrop. You set the height with the turnbuckle style OEM shifter rod, but if you need more adjustment you can adjust the rod end assembly that comes with the kit. After riding today, I'm going to have to unbolt one end and extend it a bit to raise the pedal a hair.:



Looking down at the drive side assembly:



More photos on next post
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-10-2019, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Money Shots

Non-Drive side:



Drive Side:



And the calendar shots:





Now here are some initial impressions. The kit is really engineered well and pretty clever actually that involves minimal amount of work. I like that.

I would say this kit probably puts you about 3.5" forward, which is a WORLD of difference for me. It's a whole new bike. The shifting is still crisp, but I found myself a couple of times not even feeling that I downshifted. I think it was me just getting used to the new setup.

On the brake side, I'm not sure because I didn't measure, but I think the pedal is closer to the frame slightly. The ONLY reason I notice this is because of my spike intake. I kind of have to bend around it to catch my foot on the end of the brake peg. It's not a big deal I was comfortable with it by the time I got to work and didn't give it a second thought.

You can definitely notice the flex of the aluminum slightly compared to the OEM chromed steel, but for me it's mainly because I'm really not pressing the brake pedal "in-line", I'm kind of coming from the side and pushing forward if that makes sense (because of the intake). It's noticeable, but hardly.

Overall very impressed, worth the purchase, and Craig over at Refined is a great guy to deal with. Very glad I went with this kit and so much more comfortable now on the Green Reaper!
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-10-2019, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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New Pegs

The other thing I forgot to mention which is taking some time to get used to is the new pegs with the heel rest! I haven't had anything like this before. It's interesting getting used to that position from a stop, but I really like them so far. I liked the idea of a minimal peg but the added heel rest is nice and it's not bulky like floorboards.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-13-2019, 07:32 PM
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Well i bought a set off ebay

There is an issue with shipping and i'm pretty sure UPS had a hickup cuz they sent me an empty box. Working with refined cycles on this

In the meantime bought a set that my Honda dealership had (albeit they wanted 100$ more than i got it for on ebay), spent alll afternoon on this thing (4 hours). I had to take a 30 minutes break because rain (I have no garage). And an hour taking it apart and putting it back together. Apparently the kit i have is perfect except the clutch anchor bolt thing is supposed to be like i think 5-6" long, and this kit had one 2-3" long. Honda place didnt have one, lowes and home depot didn't have one, autoparts stores around me dont have one.

Brake side done, clutch side unusable. I dont know if this kit was for something else or not. I'll jerry rig something maybe tomorrow. Quite frustrating. I will add to krash's post, at least break side its tucked in a lot closer to the bike. With stock intake you have to 'bend' your leg around to get to the brake. I may just go back to stock at this point.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-13-2019, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWagner View Post
Well i bought a set off ebay

There is an issue with shipping and i'm pretty sure UPS had a hickup cuz they sent me an empty box. Working with refined cycles on this

In the meantime bought a set that my Honda dealership had (albeit they wanted 100$ more than i got it for on ebay), spent alll afternoon on this thing (4 hours). I had to take a 30 minutes break because rain (I have no garage). And an hour taking it apart and putting it back together. Apparently the kit i have is perfect except the clutch anchor bolt thing is supposed to be like i think 5-6" long, and this kit had one 2-3" long. Honda place didnt have one, lowes and home depot didn't have one, autoparts stores around me dont have one.

Brake side done, clutch side unusable. I dont know if this kit was for something else or not. I'll jerry rig something maybe tomorrow. Quite frustrating. I will add to krash's post, at least break side its tucked in a lot closer to the bike. With stock intake you have to 'bend' your leg around to get to the brake. I may just go back to stock at this point.
My spike sits out pretty far, but its really not bad to get the brake.

I could solve the problem very easy by adding 1/2" to the 3 spacers on the brake side in the kit.

Not gonna quite go that direction yet, going to modify a new intake and see how I like it.

Sounds like you def got a kit meant for something else from the stealership. The Stateline, Fury, and VTXs are very similar, but there are minor details that makes parts not interchangeable
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Unread 05-13-2019, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krashDH View Post
My spike sits out pretty far, but its really not bad to get the brake.

I could solve the problem very easy by adding 1/2" to the 3 spacers on the brake side in the kit.

Not gonna quite go that direction yet, going to modify a new intake and see how I like it.

Sounds like you def got a kit meant for something else from the stealership. The Stateline, Fury, and VTXs are very similar, but there are minor details that makes parts not interchangeable
Yea probably. Tomorrow i'm going to go around and see if i can find some metric allthread and just cut it to the size i need. But yea if i keep these controls i absolutely will be adding a few inches to either side to make them wider. I'm still running stock cooler for now, so i'm sure with an aftermarket i'll have more knee-room.
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