"holy grail" ecu reflash condensed - Honda Fury Forums: Honda Chopper Forum
 49Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Kbuskill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: N. Florida
Posts: 5,790
"holy grail" ecu reflash condensed

So I have had alot of members asking for a consolidated version of the info found in the "Holy Grail" thread.



I asked one of the moderators if we could set up a thread that only I could post in to keep the thread from getting cluttered up but I was informed this wasn't possible so I am requesting that this thread not be commented on or questions asked in it. If you have questions please feel free to contact me through PM or in the other thread. Thanks for your cooperation in this matter.







So first off let me start off by giving you Don Guhls contact info, he is a great guy to talk to and extremely knowledgeable with stellar customer service.



Don Guhl

Guhl Motors
102 S. State St.
Ephrata, PA 17522-2411175

(717) 618-4212



Hours of Operations



Mon - Thur 9:00 AM - 5:30 PM

Fri 9:00 AM - 12:00 PM

Sat & Sun Closed



The flash costs $375 (cheaper than some fuel controllers) and that includes free overnight return shipping and comes with LIFETIME REFLASHES you just pay the shipping.

Turn around time is extremely fast if he receives it Monday thru Friday during business hours he will flash it and ship it back out same day... now that is service!!!



Here are the basic options:



1. Exhaust = Duals OR 2 into 1... choose whichever is closest to your setup.



2. Idle= our stock idle is 930rpm after the bike warms up.

He can lower your idle down to 660rpm but most people choose 700rpm so as to avoid stalling.



3. Rev limit= stock rev limits are as follows:

Stock 1st,2nd,3rd gears =5250rpm

Stock 4th gear=5000rpm

Stock 5th gear=4800rpm (this is how the bike is limited to 100mph by lowering the rev limit in 4th and 5th gears)

So if you want to break 100mph you simply raise the rev limiter.



You have the option to raise the rev limiter to whatever you feel comfortable with... its your bike so you choose but remember no one will be held responsible for your choice except you... if you have him set it to 10,000rpm and blow your engine its your fault so be smart about it.

Most people go for 6100rpm there are a few of us a little more daring that opted for 6500rpm... I wouldn't push it any further than this and when you see the dyno map you will understand why.



4. Cooling fan = the stock cooling fan turns ON at 225 and OFF at 221



You can opt to have the cooling fan turn ON at 205 and off at 201... this is a great option as heat is a major enemy of the engine, the oil, performance, and it is cooler on the rider sitting in traffic. The thermostat starts to open at 176 and is FULLY OPEN at 203 so by setting the cooling fan to turn on at 205 it will not run as long as you are moving with air flowing across the radiator so its not like your fan will be running constantly.



That is about it as far as options go. These 2 flashes (duals and 2 into 1) have been dyno tested on Scott's (GSK1966) bike with a cobra powerflo intake and freedom performance dual exhaust and then with the same intake and STG 2 into 1 pipes.



Your intake and exhaust play only minor factors, any free flowing intake and exhaust are going to be about the same. If you run these tunes on stock intake and exhaust it may run a little on the rich side.



High octane fuel is recommended with the flash as the timing has been advanced.



Also when you reinstall your ECU be sure the first time you crank the bike to just let it idle until the idle drops down and the cooling fan turns on (this may take 10-15 mins depending on the outside temperature) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!!! The ECU is relearning the IAC valve position. If you don't follow this procedure, don't complain about stalling.



Basically Don goes into the ECU'S software and reprograms it and gets rid of the factory restrictions imposed by the EPA to make the bike run as it should if the government didn't make Honda jump through hoops.



The timing has been advanced and the fuel maps optimized to give you the best performance possible. There is no need for a fuel controller this does everything for you with no piggyback controllers required.



We are getting approximately a 30% gain in power at 4800rpm which is massive and power gains through the entire RPM range.



Here is a picture of the Dyno results:







This graph shows all 3 versions Stock ECU(just intake and exhaust)in Green, Dual pipes in Red, and 2 into 1 exhaust in Blue.



I know it is a lil hard to read so here are the numbers:

Stock(intake, exhaust only)= 55.67 HP 71.17 TQ

Duals with ECU flash=63.71 HP 75.05 TQ

2 into 1 with ECU flash=67.50 HP 76.40 TQ



As you can see the power band is not only higher but longer throughout the RPM range.



Also here is a graph showing the HYPOTHETICAL TOP SPEEDS PER GEAR at different RPMs with the stock 200/50/18 rear tire(81.29 inch circumference).







I am certain that I am probably forgetting something and if so please feel free to PM me and I will add the info to this page.



I would like to end by saying that this is the best money that can be spent on this bike Bar None in my honest opinion. I have said it before and you can ask anyone who has had it done, it is like riding a completely different bike, the power that this bike has hidden within it is amazing.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Fury%20Dyno.jpg
Views:	7444
Size:	89.9 KB
ID:	107002   Click image for larger version

Name:	rps20150325_234247_360.jpg
Views:	6892
Size:	15.8 KB
ID:	107010  
Mafix, Dukins, clik and 3 others like this.


(Grandmaster of the Re-Flash Posse)
High Performance ECU Reflash Thread

Last edited by Night Fury; 11-06-2015 at 11:26 PM.
Kbuskill is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-26-2015, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Kbuskill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: N. Florida
Posts: 5,790
UPDATE

So I was asked to give a little more info on the difference between the 2 flashes as far as dual pipes OR 2 into one and while I am not privy to the exact differences as I am not the one actually doing the Reflashing I will do the best I can.

Dual pipes and 2 into 1 pipes have different flow characteristics do to the design differences. The 2 into 1 pipes will have better scavenging effects because the pipes are joined and will help each other to "suck" the exhaust out of the other pipe and therefore out of the other cylinder before the exhaust valve closes all the way, this helps by creating more room inside the cylinder for fresh air and fuel to create a "bigger explosion" on the next combustion cycle, so properly designed 2 into 1 pipes "should" always create more power than dual pipes, this is the same theory behind headers in automotive applications.

With all that being said the engine will have differing needs as far as the air/fuel ratios are concerned and thats why there are to different flashes with regard to pipes. Will the bike still run if you flash the bike for one type of exhaust and then later change your exhaust?
Absolutely, just maybe not optimally but that is ok because with free reflashing for life you can just send it back and have him reflash it if you feel the need too.

Also I was asked to give more detail about the timing advances that have been made in these flashes.

Again I am not the one doing the actual flashing so I can't be extremely specific because I don't have hard data in front of me but I will tell you what I do know.

Our bikes in stock form have to meet very strict EPA regulations not only for pollution but also for noise. Basically the EPA steps in and says this bike can produce no more than XXX number of decibels at a given RPM, so the manufacturer has to figure out how to comply with these regulations or they don't get to sell there product here.

With our bikes if you were to look at the stock read out of the ECU you would see that the timing gradually advances all the way up to 4000rpm where it is setting at 19 advance. This is the point where Honda had to step in and do something to meet the noise limit regulations, so what did they do? They cut the timing back (retarded the timing).

The stock ECU cuts 9 of timing advance just above 4000rpm. And keeps it there the rest of the way through the duration of the rpm limit up to 5250rpm where it shuts you down.

So part of what Don does is de restrict the engines ECU by adding this timing back into the engine. This in itself makes a huge difference and then while he had Scott's bike on the dyno had added more timing into the bike. How much you ask? Well I don't really know but what I do know is that Don tends to stay a little on the conservative side of wild and crazy which is a good thing in my opinion. He will add a little bit of timing and then Dyno the bike and then add a little more timing and then Re-Dyno the bike and then, well you get the idea... time consuming but effective. Once he gets to the point where there are no gains to be made from advancing the timing then he stops and goes back to the previous timing setting where there was more power made and stays there because there is no point in pushing the timing more than necessary. He also added some timing to the lower rpms to give this bike more grunt down low, like we really needed that...... of course we didn't, but we WANTED that.

I hope this makes sense to everyone and again if you have any questions please PM me and I will do the best I can to answer them for you.
WI_Hedgehog and elec78 like this.


(Grandmaster of the Re-Flash Posse)
High Performance ECU Reflash Thread

Last edited by Kbuskill; 03-26-2015 at 08:15 AM.
Kbuskill is online now  
post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-26-2015, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Kbuskill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: N. Florida
Posts: 5,790
UPDATE

This applies to my Brethren overseas and abroad.

Just FYI this Reflash is compatible with the European and Australian and Japanese bikes with O2 sensors and the ignition immobilizer.

So if anyone is holding out do to uncertainties about this,fear not, it has been tested and works flawlessly.

Also for anyone that may need help in sending or receiving the ECU into or out of the US please contact me and I will be glad to help you in anyway that I can. I know duties and customs and VATS taxes can make things cost prohibitive but it makes it easier going through me if you know what I mean

I know that some of you overseas have never dealt with me but I have dealt with a few of the members in Europe in the past with shipping and receiving and I think they can vouch for me as being a stand up guy... lol

Anyway like I said if you need any help let me know through PM and I will be glad to help out.
WI_Hedgehog likes this.


(Grandmaster of the Re-Flash Posse)
High Performance ECU Reflash Thread

Last edited by Kbuskill; 03-26-2015 at 08:03 PM.
Kbuskill is online now  
 
post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-27-2015, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Kbuskill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: N. Florida
Posts: 5,790
Removal/Installation of ECU

UPDATE

So I have been asked to provide instructions on removing the ECU. Although this is covered in section 6 of the service manual I will still post it here for those that may not have access to the service manual.

Step1. Remove the seat.

Step2. Remove the right side cover.

Step3. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.

Step4. Remove the bolts holding the preload adjuster for rear shock to the frame.

Step5. Remove the fuse box and rubber seat. There is a small tab on top of the fuse box that you have to lift and then pull the fuse box out towards you and just let it hang from the wires.

Step6. Disconnect the ECUs two 33 pin connectors (1 Black and 1 Grey) there is a tab on them both that you must depress and then pull them out.

Step7. Slide the ECU towards the front of the bike. It just sits in the rubber sleeve so if it feels stuck just wiggle it up and down and it will walk its way out.

Step8. Place the ECU in a ziplock bag (to protect it from moisture while shipping) and then get a bubble wrap padded envelope and send it to Don to work his magic.

Step9. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Step10. Crank the bike and just let it idle. DON'T TOUCH THE THROTTLE!!! JUST LET IT IDLE UNTIL IT IS UP TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE. After the idle drops down then turn off the bike and restart it.

Step11. Go ride your new beast and see if anyone could wipe the smile off your face with a 2x4... lol

Step12. ADD YOUR NAME TO THE REFLASHERS EXPOSED THREAD.





Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rps20150327_124748_406.jpg
Views:	6325
Size:	84.8 KB
ID:	107210   Click image for larger version

Name:	rps20150327_124854_884.jpg
Views:	6431
Size:	90.5 KB
ID:	107218   Click image for larger version

Name:	rps20150327_124952_736.jpg
Views:	6288
Size:	95.8 KB
ID:	107226   Click image for larger version

Name:	rps20150327_125057_505.jpg
Views:	6318
Size:	95.2 KB
ID:	107234   Click image for larger version

Name:	rps20150327_125240_993.jpg
Views:	6181
Size:	91.5 KB
ID:	107242  

TurcoLoco and WI_Hedgehog like this.


(Grandmaster of the Re-Flash Posse)
High Performance ECU Reflash Thread
Kbuskill is online now  
post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-27-2015, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Kbuskill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: N. Florida
Posts: 5,790
UPDATE

Just an addition to the previous post on removing the ECU.

I have been informed by someone in the know that the ABS bikes have 3 hard brakelines that run near the ECU and make it difficult to remove but he informs me that if you remove the rear fender as well then you can push the ECU out from the back.
AV8R likes this.


(Grandmaster of the Re-Flash Posse)
High Performance ECU Reflash Thread
Kbuskill is online now  
post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 04:55 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Kbuskill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: N. Florida
Posts: 5,790
Manually Resetting the IAC valve

Here is the reset procedure for manually resetting the IAC valve per the service manual... THIS IS ONLY NECESSARY IF you have already performed the ECU relearn procedure for the IAC valve and are running high octane fuel and still have idling issues.

The important part in these instructions is where it say:

" Turn the slide valve clockwise until lightly seated on the IAC valve" before reinstalling it.

To start the relearn procedure:
Disconnect the battery and THEN turn the ignition switch to the ON position with the kill switch in the RUN position... leave it like this while you are manually resetting the IAC valve. Once you have manually reset the IAC valve turn OFF the ignition switch BEFORE reconnecting the battery then start the bike and let it idle until warmed up completely... DO NOT touch the throttle during this process. Once it has warmed up completely (idle has dropped down and cooling fan has turned on) turn the bike off and then restart it and ride as you normally would (like you stole it... lol).This will allow the ECU to control the IAC valve from a fully seated position while it is relearning.





Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rps20150505_170557_532.jpg
Views:	5730
Size:	79.1 KB
ID:	114314   Click image for larger version

Name:	rps20150505_170705_925.jpg
Views:	5911
Size:	89.1 KB
ID:	114322   Click image for larger version

Name:	rps20150505_170834_503.jpg
Views:	5698
Size:	61.5 KB
ID:	114330  
WI_Hedgehog likes this.

Last edited by Kbuskill; 05-05-2015 at 05:37 PM.
Kbuskill is online now  
post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-10-2015, 02:23 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kbuskill View Post
So I have had alot of members asking for a consolidated version of the info found in the "Holy Grail" thread.

I asked one of the moderators if we could set up a thread that only I could post in to keep the thread from getting cluttered up but I was informed this wasn't possible so I am requesting that this thread not be commented on or questions asked in it. If you have questions please feel free to contact me through PM or in the other thread. Thanks for your cooperation in this matter.



So first off let me start off by giving you Don Guhls contact info, he is a great guy to talk to and extremely knowledgeable with stellar customer service.

Don Guhl
Guhl Motors
4126 Oregon Pike. Ephrata, PA 17522
(717) 618-4212

Hours of Operations

Mon - Thur 9:00 AM - 5:30 PM
Fri 9:00 AM - 12:00 PM
Sat & Sun Closed

The flash costs $375 (cheaper than some fuel controllers) and that includes free overnight return shipping and comes with LIFETIME REFLASHES you just pay the shipping.
Turn around time is extremely fast if he receives it Monday thru Friday during business hours he will flash it and ship it back out same day... now that is service!!!

Here are the basic options:

1. Exhaust = Duals OR 2 into 1... choose whichever is closest to your setup.

2. Idle= our stock idle is 930rpm after the bike warms up.
He can lower your idle down to 660rpm but most people choose 700rpm so as to avoid stalling.

3. Rev limit= stock rev limits are as follows:
Stock 1st,2nd,3rd gears =5250rpm
Stock 4th gear=5000rpm
Stock 5th gear=4800rpm (this is how the bike is limited to 100mph by lowering the rev limit in 4th and 5th gears)
So if you want to break 100mph you simply raise the rev limiter.

You have the option to raise the rev limiter to whatever you feel comfortable with... its your bike so you choose but remember no one will be held responsible for your choice except you... if you have him set it to 10,000rpm and blow your engine its your fault so be smart about it.
Most people go for 6100rpm there are a few of us a little more daring that opted for 6500rpm... I wouldn't push it any further than this and when you see the dyno map you will understand why.

4. Cooling fan = the stock cooling fan turns ON at 225 and OFF at 221

You can opt to have the cooling fan turn ON at 205 and off at 201... this is a great option as heat is a major enemy of the engine, the oil, performance, and it is cooler on the rider sitting in traffic. The thermostat starts to open at 176 and is FULLY OPEN at 203 so by setting the cooling fan to turn on at 205 it will not run as long as you are moving with air flowing across the radiator so its not like your fan will be running constantly.

That is about it as far as options go. These 2 flashes (duals and 2 into 1) have been dyno tested on Scott's (GSK1966) bike with a cobra powerflo intake and freedom performance dual exhaust and then with the same intake and STG 2 into 1 pipes.

Your intake and exhaust play only minor factors, any free flowing intake and exhaust are going to be about the same. If you run these tunes on stock intake and exhaust it may run a little on the rich side.

High octane fuel is recommended with the flash as the timing has been advanced.

Also when you reinstall your ECU be sure the first time you crank the bike to just let it idle until the idle drops down and the cooling fan turns on (this may take 10-15 mins depending on the outside temperature) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!!! The ECU is relearning the IAC valve position. If you don't follow this procedure, don't complain about stalling.

Basically Don goes into the ECU'S software and reprograms it and gets rid of the factory restrictions imposed by the EPA to make the bike run as it should if the government didn't make Honda jump through hoops.

The timing has been advanced and the fuel maps optimized to give you the best performance possible. There is no need for a fuel controller this does everything for you with no piggyback controllers required.

We are getting approximately a 30% gain in power at 4800rpm which is massive and power gains through the entire RPM range.

Here is a picture of the Dyno results:



This graph shows all 3 versions Stock ECU(just intake and exhaust)in Green, Dual pipes in Red, and 2 into 1 exhaust in Blue.

I know it is a lil hard to read so here are the numbers:
Stock(intake, exhaust only)= 55.67 HP 71.17 TQ
Duals with ECU flash=63.71 HP 75.05 TQ
2 into 1 with ECU flash=67.50 HP 76.40 TQ

As you can see the power band is not only higher but longer throughout the RPM range.

Also here is a graph showing the HYPOTHETICAL TOP SPEEDS PER GEAR at different RPMs with the stock 200/50/18 rear tire(81.29 inch circumference).



I am certain that I am probably forgetting something and if so please feel free to PM me and I will add the info to this page.

I would like to end by saying that this is the best money that can be spent on this bike Bar None in my honest opinion. I have said it before and you can ask anyone who has had it done, it is like riding a completely different bike, the power that this bike has hidden within it is amazing.
I have a cobra autotune on my fury, can i keep it on with the reflash, all i want is the rev limit raised up, and cooling fan temp change done?
kiddy728 is offline  
post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-10-2015, 03:58 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Kbuskill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: N. Florida
Posts: 5,790
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiddy728 View Post
I have a cobra autotune on my fury, can i keep it on with the reflash, all i want is the rev limit raised up, and cooling fan temp change done?
Can you leave it on? Yes, BUT you will be missing out on a whole lot of power by doing so. One of the other members on here had the timing changed and rev limit raised but left the stock fuel tables so he could keep his cobra 3 pot fuel controller... I do not recommend this however because it is a guessing game VS. Having the complete flash and knowing that it is a fully Dyno tuned map. But its your bike, do as you please. I would sell the powerpro, and recoupe some of your money you spent on the reflash... That's what I did with my powerpro and believe me, there is absolutely NO COMPARISON to the performance of the reflash VS. the powerpro.
WI_Hedgehog likes this.


(Grandmaster of the Re-Flash Posse)
High Performance ECU Reflash Thread
Kbuskill is online now  
post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-10-2015, 04:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Pickelhaube's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Darwin, NT, Australia
Posts: 760
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kbuskill View Post
So I have had alot of members asking for a consolidated version of the info found in the "Holy Grail" thread.

I asked one of the moderators if we could set up a thread that only I could post in to keep the thread from getting cluttered up but I was informed this wasn't possible so I am requesting that this thread not be commented on or questions asked in it. If you have questions please feel free to contact me through PM or in the other thread. Thanks for your cooperation in this matter.



So first off let me start off by giving you Don Guhls contact info, he is a great guy to talk to and extremely knowledgeable with stellar customer service.

Don Guhl
Guhl Motors
4126 Oregon Pike. Ephrata, PA 17522
(717) 618-4212

Hours of Operations

Mon - Thur 9:00 AM - 5:30 PM
Fri 9:00 AM - 12:00 PM
Sat & Sun Closed

The flash costs $375 (cheaper than some fuel controllers) and that includes free overnight return shipping and comes with LIFETIME REFLASHES you just pay the shipping.
Turn around time is extremely fast if he receives it Monday thru Friday during business hours he will flash it and ship it back out same day... now that is service!!!

Here are the basic options:

1. Exhaust = Duals OR 2 into 1... choose whichever is closest to your setup.

2. Idle= our stock idle is 930rpm after the bike warms up.
He can lower your idle down to 660rpm but most people choose 700rpm so as to avoid stalling.

3. Rev limit= stock rev limits are as follows:
Stock 1st,2nd,3rd gears =5250rpm
Stock 4th gear=5000rpm
Stock 5th gear=4800rpm (this is how the bike is limited to 100mph by lowering the rev limit in 4th and 5th gears)
So if you want to break 100mph you simply raise the rev limiter.

You have the option to raise the rev limiter to whatever you feel comfortable with... its your bike so you choose but remember no one will be held responsible for your choice except you... if you have him set it to 10,000rpm and blow your engine its your fault so be smart about it.
Most people go for 6100rpm there are a few of us a little more daring that opted for 6500rpm... I wouldn't push it any further than this and when you see the dyno map you will understand why.

4. Cooling fan = the stock cooling fan turns ON at 225 and OFF at 221

You can opt to have the cooling fan turn ON at 205 and off at 201... this is a great option as heat is a major enemy of the engine, the oil, performance, and it is cooler on the rider sitting in traffic. The thermostat starts to open at 176 and is FULLY OPEN at 203 so by setting the cooling fan to turn on at 205 it will not run as long as you are moving with air flowing across the radiator so its not like your fan will be running constantly.

That is about it as far as options go. These 2 flashes (duals and 2 into 1) have been dyno tested on Scott's (GSK1966) bike with a cobra powerflo intake and freedom performance dual exhaust and then with the same intake and STG 2 into 1 pipes.

Your intake and exhaust play only minor factors, any free flowing intake and exhaust are going to be about the same. If you run these tunes on stock intake and exhaust it may run a little on the rich side.

High octane fuel is recommended with the flash as the timing has been advanced.

Also when you reinstall your ECU be sure the first time you crank the bike to just let it idle until the idle drops down and the cooling fan turns on (this may take 10-15 mins depending on the outside temperature) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!!! The ECU is relearning the IAC valve position. If you don't follow this procedure, don't complain about stalling.

Basically Don goes into the ECU'S software and reprograms it and gets rid of the factory restrictions imposed by the EPA to make the bike run as it should if the government didn't make Honda jump through hoops.

The timing has been advanced and the fuel maps optimized to give you the best performance possible. There is no need for a fuel controller this does everything for you with no piggyback controllers required.

We are getting approximately a 30% gain in power at 4800rpm which is massive and power gains through the entire RPM range.

Here is a picture of the Dyno results:



This graph shows all 3 versions Stock ECU(just intake and exhaust)in Green, Dual pipes in Red, and 2 into 1 exhaust in Blue.

I know it is a lil hard to read so here are the numbers:
Stock(intake, exhaust only)= 55.67 HP 71.17 TQ
Duals with ECU flash=63.71 HP 75.05 TQ
2 into 1 with ECU flash=67.50 HP 76.40 TQ

As you can see the power band is not only higher but longer throughout the RPM range.

Also here is a graph showing the HYPOTHETICAL TOP SPEEDS PER GEAR at different RPMs with the stock 200/50/18 rear tire(81.29 inch circumference).



I am certain that I am probably forgetting something and if so please feel free to PM me and I will add the info to this page.

I would like to end by saying that this is the best money that can be spent on this bike Bar None in my honest opinion. I have said it before and you can ask anyone who has had it done, it is like riding a completely different bike, the power that this bike has hidden within it is amazing.
OK, what I can see in the picture is that the red power curve shows the highest HP number whilst the blue torque curve shows the highest torque. I don't know why nobody else has picked this up by now, but it would mean that two pipes give higher power whilst two into one gives higher torque.....or am I missing something here???
WI_Hedgehog likes this.

2011 ABS, Custom Paint Job; Reaper tips; S&S filter; PowrPro; chrome 8 Trees, wheels, levers, switch housings & mirrors; flame seat; Kury engine bling kit, deep dish bezels; Cannella risers & kickstand...
Pickelhaube is offline  
post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-10-2015, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Kbuskill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: N. Florida
Posts: 5,790
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pickelhaube View Post
OK, what I can see in the picture is that the red power curve shows the highest HP number whilst the blue torque curve shows the highest torque. I don't know why nobody else has picked this up by now, but it would mean that two pipes give higher power whilst two into one gives higher torque.....or am I missing something here???
You are correct... But the difference is marginal.
squiggy and WI_Hedgehog like this.


(Grandmaster of the Re-Flash Posse)
High Performance ECU Reflash Thread
Kbuskill is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Honda Fury Forums: Honda Chopper Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome