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Can any Wisconsin riders help?

1K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  WI_Hedgehog 
#1 ·
Attention Wisconsin riders: I need some help with my bike. Recently installed some new apes and am having an issue with the electrical. Had to cut/splice/solder and now I’m having issues with my indicators not illuminating correctly (followed everything to a T with my own documented notes). If any of you are skilled with electrical, I can pay you with cash, food, beer, or all 3. Desperate times my friends. I have some long rides coming up and I need my bike to be working to “factory standards” electronically so I can make them. Please help! I would do it on my own again, but I’m too afraid of damaging anything, so I’m begging for in-person help!
 
#3 ·
You need to give a better description of what your issues are. Our Honda's turn signals are tricky as they pull off different circuits for running and turn signals.

So go into a bit more depth what you're dealing with and we can try to help
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Bump for help.
You need to give a better description of what your issues are. Our Honda's turn signals are tricky as they pull off different circuits for running and turn signals.

So go into a bit more depth what you're dealing with and we can try to help
@krashDH

Here’s what I’m dealing with:

- Left rear running light stays on (right one doesn’t illuminate.

- When engaging turn signals, fronts work, but flash at a double speed (rear right still doesn’t illuminate and left completely cuts out).

I’ve tried narrowing it down with wiring, but everything is hooked back up accordingly and the circuits are complete (grounds included as those were a huge concern). Bulbs are good too as they are brand new. I did use a larger wire when adding length. Would be the issue? 2 cut/solder points and went up to a 14g wire. Looks quite a bit larger than the factory sizing. Needing to fix it as soon as possible and would be willing to pay someone to help. Shops are asking $600+ and I don’t have that kind of extra cash sitting around.
 
#5 ·
If I remember correctly, the stock setup has the headlight on and front yellow directional lights illuminated for use as marker lights (medium bright). The rear center red tail light is lluminated for use as a marker light (medium bright). The rear yellow directional lights are not illuminated.

If a brake switch is activated the rear center red tail light is lluminated brightly.

If a directional switch is activated the front and rear yellow directional lights on the side not activated doesn't change. The front yellow directional light on the side activated stops illuminating. Both the front and rear yellow lights then flash brightly at the same time.

In your situation it sounds like a front directional and rear directional wire got crossed. The heavier gauge wire will not cause a problem, it's able to carry more current than required, so no issues there.

Generally, it's hard to check one's own work in these instances because they have confidence they did the work correctly. Sometimes it helps to imagine someone else did the work and assume everything they did is incorrect until you can prove it to be correct. Look at a factory wiring diagram (the shop manual is available on this site) and carefully follow each wire from the start through to the termination, assuming a twist along the way could reverse two connections unknowingly.

The other thing to keep in mind is there may be more than one problem. Recently I tested a top-end auxillary light system controlled completely by remote control which wouldn't turn on. The fuse checked good, wires were hooked up properly, the remote battery tested "low" but should have been usable. Tried another remote, still didn't work. Swapped batteries in the remotes, sill didn't work. I drew the conclusion either the system controller was "dead" or the remote control lost sync with the controller box and wouldn't turn on the system. I pulled the battery out of the motorcycle and hooked up only the system control box to the battery and magically everything worked. One possibility is somehow there could have been a bad connection and the control box wasn't getting power. It appeared no wires were broken, so how there cold be a "bad connection" is puzzling, but hooking everything back up and testing along the way showed everything to work properly. It could also be when the system controller was previously hooked to the battery (it's an always-on system) it initialized improperly and needed to be reset, and disconnecting/reconnecting would have done that.

Relating that to your situation, a cold solder joint, broken wire, new bulb that was mis-manufactured, wire that pulled out of its harness, pinched wire, and/or other situation could be at large. Maybe you're reading your own diagram wrong? It would help to have a stock bike to compare yours to, but a wiring diagram will also work.
 
#6 ·
@WI_Hedgehog

Sounds like you definitely know your stuff. Would you be willing to give me a hand in figuring things out? I can come to you with the tools and whatnot. And I’ll pay you for your time with helping me out. If you’re interested or willing, shoot me a message with your contact info and we’ll get it figured out. Either way, thank you for your input.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Is there such a thing as too large of wires?
You can use any size wire really, I'm guessing the connections between the large and smaller wires was poor. But glad you got it solved, and hopefully you used solder!

Edit: Assuming the gauge of wire can accommodate the load amperage in the circuit
 
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