Underglow lights: Do they (or any) retain settings? - Honda Fury Forums: Honda Chopper Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Underglow lights: Do they (or any) retain settings?

I am considering adding underglow lights but one thing I can't seem to find much info on:

I know a lot of them come with remotes to cycle colors and do other fancy things, but what I am wondering is do they retain the last used setting/color even after power is turned off to them?

I would likely wire it in to come on with the headlights but also add a switch to turn them off if I ever wanted or needed to. My concern is that without power, some brands may change to a default color or setting when power is restored. I'd like it to stay on whatever color I last used since I will likely just always keep it at whatever color I like best.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 11:19 AM
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Underglow lights: Do they (or any) retain settings?

Yes I bought this set from Amazon pretty bright and easy to install, also has a app you can control them from your phone. Very good quality for the price! Wired them to a toggle switch that I install on the left battery cover.




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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Furiosity View Post
I am considering adding underglow lights but one thing I can't seem to find much info on:

I know a lot of them come with remotes to cycle colors and do other fancy things, but what I am wondering is do they retain the last used setting/color even after power is turned off to them?

I would likely wire it in to come on with the headlights but also add a switch to turn them off if I ever wanted or needed to. My concern is that without power, some brands may change to a default color or setting when power is restored. I'd like it to stay on whatever color I last used since I will likely just always keep it at whatever color I like best.
I have a very cheap Chinese controller in my kitchen that retains settings after loss of power. It is not waterproof and can power about 30' of RGB lights.

Conversely, the JoeFlorida light controllers I've worked with (which are probably the highest quality components available) expect to be always hot and do not remember settings after loss of power. They have extra inputs so can be programmed to turn on via the headlight power feed, which allows for controlling them by the remote and/or the headlight. The controller is waterproof, can control an insane amount of LEDs, and costs 10x more than a Chinese RF controller. It also uses almost no power in standby, unlike many Chinese controllers.

Bottom-end is no controller, single-color 12V LED strips. Cheap, and work near flawlessly, near forever.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by WI_Hedgehog View Post
I have a very cheap Chinese controller in my kitchen that retains settings after loss of power. It is not waterproof and can power about 30' of RGB lights.

Conversely, the JoeFlorida light controllers I've worked with (which are probably the highest quality components available) expect to be always hot and do not remember settings after loss of power. They have extra inputs so can be programmed to turn on via the headlight power feed, which allows for controlling them by the remote and/or the headlight. The controller is waterproof, can control an insane amount of LEDs, and costs 10x more than a Chinese RF controller. It also uses almost no power in standby, unlike many Chinese controllers.

Bottom-end is no controller, single-color 12V LED strips. Cheap, and work near flawlessly, near forever.
I've been interested in throwing some green LED strips on my bike.
I'm kind of OCD when it comes to wiring.

I'd obviously like them to come on when the key is switched...ie headlights, running lights, etc.
But, for legal purposes, be able to manually switch them off when riding.

I'm also not wanting to start stacking wires on top of my battery since I like to keep it clean. Because of the low current draw and power consumption (I think each strip I'm looking at draws 1A) could I stack a fuse lead in my headlight fuse spot and run that hot wire right to a switch? I don't know if these LED strips would actually require a relay...



The only issue I see is the room under the fuse cover probably is not adequate for this...

Basically switch on, strips come on with the headlight. Switch off, no LED's.
I could get fancy and wire the positive to the headlight switch and negative to the kickstand circuit, but I like a way to manually control them.

What have others done?

Sorry to jack the thread, just figure it's kind of along the same lines.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 12:34 PM
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@krashDH : I'm guessing the headlight fuse is unpowered until the key is on. There seems to be enough room to run a fuse expander under the left side cover, but probably not under the fuse box cover on the right where the headlight fuse is located--you'd have to check.

A switch can be mounted in the side panel towards the front center under the seat.

No relay is needed because of the low current draw, though a fuse should be used due to the potential for a short circuit (vibration, water, pinch-point, etc.)
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 12:40 PM
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@krashDH : I'm guessing the headlight fuse is unpowered until the key is on. There seems to be enough room to run a fuse expander under the left side cover, but probably not under the fuse box cover on the right--you'd have to check.

A switch can be mounted in the side panel towards the front center under the seat.

No relay is needed because of the low current draw, though a fuse should be used due to the potential for a short circuit (vibration, water, pinch-point, etc.)
I've got my air ride pneumatic switches on one cover (drive side cover) so I'll probably look elsewhere for mounting the switch. I haven't checked the clearance under the fuse box cover, but if it would fit I would stack it there, since that's where the headlight fuse is.

Guess I'll have to give it a go and see how much room is under that fuse block cover. Yeah I figured for a few frame strip LED's I could just tie into an existing circuit without adding a relay but figured I'd check. A fuse is a must though I agree.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 01:44 PM
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@krashDH : Quick and easy to try to see if it fits.

Mount your light switch lower? It's not like it's accessed much, just once in a great while.

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Last edited by WI_Hedgehog; 05-16-2019 at 01:57 PM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by WI_Hedgehog View Post
@krashDH : I'm guessing the headlight fuse is unpowered until the key is on. There seems to be enough room to run a fuse expander under the left side cover, but probably not under the fuse box cover on the right where the headlight fuse is located--you'd have to check.

No relay is needed because of the low current draw, though a fuse should be used due to the potential for a short circuit (vibration, water, pinch-point, etc.)
Well I tested the add-a-fuse to the headlight fuse slot last night and it's oh-so-close.

You cannot use the low profile mini (LP) version of the add a circuit. The fuses are too deep in the box for those compared to the size of the add a circuit body. You can however, fit the standard mini add a circuit in as shown below, and route the wire through the back of one of the open slots.
I got pretty excited at this point as this would have been a slam dunk:



Then went to put the cover back on...close, but just not quite. It won't snap over:



So back to figuring out how to keep it neat and clean for the ground LED's
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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I wound up ordering a kit on Amazon and received it today but haven't gotten started yet.

On that dilemma, I think I am leaning towards soldering the positive wire to the top of the hot side of the headlight fuse. I may need to remove a bit of the plastic at the top to get a better connection but that wouldn't be difficult at all.

It isn't exactly ideal, but for one, I know it will fit, and two, it can easily be undone by replacing the original fuse. The biggest hassle would be if I ever needed to replace that fuse (and re-solder the wire to the new one) if it were to blow but honestly that should pretty much never happen in the first place.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Furiosity View Post
I wound up ordering a kit on Amazon and received it today but haven't gotten started yet.

On that dilemma, I think I am leaning towards soldering the positive wire to the top of the hot side of the headlight fuse. I may need to remove a bit of the plastic at the top to get a better connection but that wouldn't be difficult at all.

It isn't exactly ideal, but for one, I know it will fit, and two, it can easily be undone by replacing the original fuse. The biggest hassle would be if I ever needed to replace that fuse (and re-solder the wire to the new one) if it were to blow but honestly that should pretty much never happen in the first place.
Problem solved:



or



But you may want to run an inline tap connected to that terminal? The first one is probably a better option due to the terminals in our fuse box being recessed. You also get more reliable contact with option 1 and don't risk arc'ing
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Last edited by krashDH; 05-17-2019 at 11:56 AM.
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