[CBSIMONSEZ]

i wanted to post some things i found while installing these forward controls, again ( like installing the PowrFlo ) ill try and save some one a head ache in the future with the install.

The instructions are good, but i think they left some things out.

1. when you are removing the right side brake assembly, you will need to remove the C clip off the brake lever to take the lever off the stock assembly. This will allow the mounting hardware to be wiggled up and out over the lower frame rail. Unless your removing the exhuast during the install, i could not find a way to get the entire assembly out, it just wont turn enough to get it out. Pay mind of the frame rail, as i scratched mine getting the brake assembly out.

2. if you have an Irate radiator grill installed, your gonna have to remove it. Your also going to have to remove the right side ( brake side ) mounting bolts off the rear to get the radiator to move forward just enough to take out the mounting hardware from the stock brake assembly.

13MM wrench used here. When you do get the brake side installed, you will have to route the brake line ( and brake switch cable ) under your Irate grill.

I found that if you go to the back of the bike to the factory rear brake tube where it bends down to meet the bottom frame rail, push it forward about an 1/8th of an inch.

It will give you some slack up front to get under the Irate grill. I also cut a 1 inch section of small tubing, then sliced it open to use as a cushion between the Accutronix brake cable and the grill.

3. if you have a Guardian Angle bell mounted on the left side on the forward controls, you will have to move it to the right side. The shift linkage will be in the way of the bell now. Mount the bell BEFORE you finalize the Accutronix controls on the right side. By using the red Locktite, backing those bolts out later will be a royal bitch! I almost stripped the allen key hole in the Accutronix bolt!

4. on the left side, you will need to use the factory nut off the factory shift linkage off the pivit end closest to the tranny.

If you thread the new shift link all the way in, and then mount the other end the pedal link you should be fine as far as shifting like stock. Use the locking nut that you took off the factory link shaft and lock it in.

5. I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH, AND I PLAN ON INFORMING ACCUTRONIX ABOUT THIS ISSUE. MAKE SURE THE BUTTON HEAD BOLT THAT ATTACHES THE LINK TO THE PEDAL ASSEMBLY THREADS IN NICE AND EASY BY HAND! I started mine by hand, and when i went to work it in with the allen wrench the damn thing stripped and went sideways!

I carefully back it out, and tried again .. but no .. the damn hole was either clogged with chrome or it wasnt tapped correctly. Thank God above that my local Mom&Pop hardware store had a tap on hand and the shop owner re-tapped the hole for me, making sure that the button head bolt went in by hand. He saved me a world of trouble and only charged me $6 for the tap! I left him a $20 tip so he and his helper could have lunch on me. Do yourself a favor and make sure that damn little bolt goes in nice and easy. If not, your gonna stip out a $900 ( retail ) part and your bike will be left half done. That little button head bolt is a 3/16th Allen wrench.

You can adjust the factory settings. Im 6'2" and i had to reach to get the rear brakes to engage. Remove the button head bolt off the brake lever, and run some more of the threaded shaft out, just leave a fraction of an inch play in it so you dont ride around with constant pressure on the rear brakes, causing them to lock up which is what happened to another forum member here.

I plan on adjusting the shift side today, to get the shift pedal to come up and closer just a bit. With my boots on, i cant get my toe under the shift all the way to shift up. Im essentially using the front soel of my boot toe to shift up, but i got it down no problem.

ALL THAT BEING SAID ... i cant stress enough how much these make a difference in the ride. Yeah, if you dont get them on sale you are probably going to spend more then you would on an exhaust. Over all the form and function is top notch. My long legs are now pushed further out, which makes for more of a chopper like ride. AND, i noticed that sitting in this position making slow turns is a hell of a lot easier. Just lean to the side, and the bike turns effortlessly and smoothly.

Good Luck on your install.

C

 

[Stan]

Post some pics. I am plnning this mod next myself.

 

[CBSIMONSEZ]

Post some pics. I am plnning this mod next myself.

Will do, in a couple minutes matter of fact. You looking for anything specific? And angles you have in mind?

 

[X_KIOWA_X]

CB I'm going to have to say that your one thorough dude, great write up! I'm probably not going to be able to afford this for a while but I just wanted to comment and let you know that I have read a couple of your writeups and found them to be detailed and probably what people need when they are attempting these mods. Thanks for sharing with the community!

 

[CBSIMONSEZ]

CB I'm going to have to say that your one thorough dude, great write up! I'm probably not going to be able to afford this for a while but I just wanted to comment and let you know that I have read a couple of your writeups and found them to be detailed and probably what people need when they are attempting these mods. Thanks for sharing with the community!

If I have learned on thing tooling around on cars for the sport tuner scene, its always easier if someone else posts their how-tos for those who havent.

If i can save someone from going Mental .. then its all worth it.

 

[CBSIMONSEZ]

I just remembered ... because these are made in America the button head bolts are DOMESTIC sized wrenches, not METRIC. Using metric you will strip out any of the button head bolts. The bolts that hold the controls to the bike are metric. The lock down nuts, they are metric ( 13MM). Off to take the pics now, and adjust the shifter.

 

[CBSIMONSEZ]

Just some random pics of the finished product.

right about where the D is on the dollar bill here, that is where the factory pegs are. Way too close.

Now you can see where the new peg is in relation to where the D is. Much better ride.

 

[LesterDiamond]

CB I'm going to have to say that your one thorough dude, great write up! I'm probably not going to be able to afford this for a while but I just wanted to comment and let you know that I have read a couple of your writeups and found them to be detailed and probably what people need when they are attempting these mods. Thanks for sharing with the community!

+1. Man, you dont mess around on starting the mods.

If I have learned on thing tooling around on cars for the sport tuner scene, its always easier if someone else posts their how-tos for those who havent.

If i can save someone from going Mental .. then its all worth it.

Good times.

 

[mental]

If i can save someone from going Mental .. then its all worth it.

I object!

 

[mrbyber]

Very nice!
I got the same ones. Just that little bit makes a world of diference.

 

[skappiris]

you are a brave soul. that is a nice job, sir. and, now I know how I was able to strip out the Cobra bolt under the PowerFlo. I was using a 6mm allen instead of SAE.
jeez, my brain hurts.

 

[CBSIMONSEZ]

Conbra is no better. I had issues with the rear cargo attachment & the engine cover system. It would appear that even these guys who are supposed to be big name brands have issues with quality control.

 

[captainfester]

thanks... i am expecting delivery this week! as always well done and photographed well.

 

[Stan]

Thanks for the photos, pretty work. You are right, learn from those that have done what you are getting ready to do.

 

[Accutronix Billet]

There is a better way to adjust the toe peg height.

To adjust the shift linkage ..

loosen the factory nut on the Accutronix shaft.

run out as much as you need. I took mine out 8 turns. The shaft runs in 17 turns before it bottoms out. Retighten the stock nut (10MM) onto the shift pivot (13MM).

i took the front end out about 8 turns as well. This moved the pedal closer to the fuel tank by about an inch!

before ...

after ...

There is a better way to adjust the toe peg height.
1) Start with the shift & brake rods adjusted as they were from Accutronix
2) Turn the end cap where the shift & brake arm pivots counter clock wise to remove it. It is held on with red Loctite® so you may need a rubber strap wrench or one of them rubber pickle jar lid removers.
3) There are three screws that hold the arms on. There are nine holes in the arms. There are twelve holes in the shift & brake spacers. Mark where the screws are with a sharpie. Remove the screws & move the arm to the next set of holes. Install the screws & test the new position.
4) Install the end cap

You can fine tune the toe peg height with the shift & brake rods. However care must be taken because too little free play in the brake will cause the rear wheel to lock. An improperly adjusted shift linkage will cause the linkage to be weak & could break. Also an improperly adjusted shift linkage will make finding neutral more difficult.

Hope this helps,
Troy
623-516-9600 Ext 29

 

[695]

You might want to re-bleed the rear brakes after about 50 miles or so to work out any tiny air bubbles that may accumulated from riding vibration.

Also I think Troy meant the word neutral in his post..

Also an improperly adjusted shift linkage will make finding natural more difficult.

 

[CBSIMONSEZ]

There is a better way to adjust the toe peg height.
1) Start with the shift & brake rods adjusted as they were from Accutronix
2) Turn the end cap where the shift & brake arm pivots counter clock wise to remove it. It is held on with red Loctite® so you may need a rubber strap wrench or one of them rubber pickle jar lid removers.
3) There are three screws that hold the arms on. There are nine holes in the arms. There are twelve holes in the shift & brake spacers. Mark where the screws are with a sharpie. Remove the screws & move the arm to the next set of holes. Install the screws & test the new position.
4) Install the end cap

You can fine tune the toe peg height with the shift & brake rods. However care must be taken because too little free play in the brake will cause the rear wheel to lock. An improperly adjusted shift linkage will cause the linkage to be weak & could break. Also an improperly adjusted shift linkage will make finding neutral more difficult.

Hope this helps,
Troy
623-516-9600 Ext 29

i was looking at this after installing, and figured that the cap on the pivit point was machine pressed on. I will look into this for the brake side this weekend, as i still have to stretch just a little to get the rear brakes to engage.

Troy, im guessing you did read the issue i had with getting that button top bolt to get started in the shifter side of the assembly? I cant tell you how lucky i was to have the owner of a local hardware store retap that hole for me.

All that said, every time i ride the bike now, i love it more. Its so nice to have my legs stretched out, and my knees dont cramp up. And the breeze up the legs of my jeans is refreshing! LOL

 

[d!rty South]

If your going to ROFL. Do it in the privacy of your home. Not after this post; thanks in advance.

What do forward controls do for you. Is it for people with long legs? I'm short.

 

[RedspawnSilver]

If your going to ROFL. Do it in the privacy of your home. Not after this post; thanks in advance.

What do forward controls do for you. Is it for people with long legs? I'm short.

If you get the extended 3" forward controls, then that is usually for taller people, but they also have them in a normal size without the 3" extension, in order to purdy up those pegs and levers that are on the bike. That would probably be the size that you would get for your bike, the regular edition. Generally, a 32++ inch inseam is advised when getting the 3" extension's for forward controls.

 

[Accutronix Billet]

i was looking at this after installing, and figured that the cap on the pivit point was machine pressed on. I will look into this for the brake side this weekend, as i still have to stretch just a little to get the rear brakes to engage.

Troy, im guessing you did read the issue i had with getting that button top bolt to get started in the shifter side of the assembly? I cant tell you how lucky i was to have the owner of a local hardware store retap that hole for me.

All that said, every time i ride the bike now, i love it more. Its so nice to have my legs stretched out, and my knees dont cramp up. And the breeze up the legs of my jeans is refreshing! LOL

Yes, I read it the issue had & I talked to our assembly department about it. I feel this will not happen again, but humans do make mistakes. Also, in the instructions, the very last sentence references adjusting the shift & brake arm height.

My concerns with your method are as follows.
1) You can see a lot of threads. That looks less attractive and having less thread engagement makes the shift rod weaker. Mainly in the back were the stock Honda heim joint is used.
2) Diminishing the brake arm free play will cause the brake to get hot & can damage the pads & rotor, lock the rear wheel, waste gas & rob horse power.

I'm sorry for the issue you had but all seems good now. If I can help in any way let me know.

Thank you for choosing Accutronix.
Troy
623-516-9600 Ext 29