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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, been tryin to research but all that pops up is how to add coolant for dummies lol. So I'm planning on adding two helix type water cooling reservoirs for looks as well as hoping more coolant will be better. My main concerns are how to tie the hoses into the system and if the pressure or something might be outta my league. Might be testing on my bike and letting you guys know the answers if I can't find them lol... anyone else tried anything similar? Adding pics and thanks for your time!
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also planning on buying some of that red radiator coolant but seems to only be good about 6 months or so
 

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Also planning on buying some of that red radiator coolant but seems to only be good about 6 months or so
There’s no lack of fittings you can buy to splice those in but I’d be more worried about obstructing the flow…. Might not be an issue tho; there’s plenty of people here that’ll know- give the thread some time to catch on. I’d bet @Furi15 or @WI_Hedgehog would know
 

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The 1/4" tubing would not be enough flow if it was in the main flow path. Also, that tubing would not really be rated for that heat level. I am not sure what the helix units really get you, other than you would be running hot coolant in maybe the airstream? But more to the point, why? Are you having some overheating problems? What is the problem statement that you are trying to fix?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There’s no lack of fittings you can buy to splice those in but I’d be more worried about obstructing the flow…. Might not be an issue tho; there’s plenty of people here that’ll know- give the thread some time to catch on. I’d bet @Furi15 or @WI_Hedgehog would know
Thank you for your help, I was wondering about hindering it as well but "assumed" if it is air purged and the water can still go through the bigger hoses as well as keep these small ones flowing as well that possibly would just add however much both of these full of water to the mix. But agree the hosing is prob too small
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The 1/4" tubing would not be enough flow if it was in the main flow path. Also, that tubing would not really be rated for that heat level. I am not sure what the helix units really get you, other than you would be running hot coolant in maybe the airstream? But more to the point, why? Are you having some overheating problems? What is the problem statement that you are trying to fix?
Yes I think the small tubing isn't sufficient enough and also pondered on copper. More or less used some extra sprinkler tube I had laying around to help me picture it. Was imagining tying one end of hose into the reservoir coming out splitting to both helix out the tops and back into single line, then somehow tying into top radiator hose. Purely cosmetic intentions, although hoping for possibility of " added fluid reservoirs as well as semi air cooling à small amount of it." Lol sounds like how some shit I tell the wife to try and justify
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will add some pics tomorrow to try and show how I've been thinking. With tubes semi mounted and what not
 

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You might be in trouble with your proposed choice of coolant. The different colour coolants are so you can quickly tell the difference between the different formulas. If I remember correctly the coolant used by Honda for the Fury is green.
If this mod is for cosmetic purposes only then just block off the tubes and fill the thing up with whatever coolant you like, just don't connect it to the cooling system. I doubt you would get any noticeable difference adding a few hundred mils of extra coolant as the Honda engineers spent a lot of time and money getting the cooling system to perform well in a wide range of conditions. Plus all the extra connections are additional points of failure in a pressurised system that would spray beyond boiling water all over the bike and you in the event of a failure.
 

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There’s no lack of fittings you can buy to splice those in but I’d be more worried about obstructing the flow…. Might not be an issue tho; there’s plenty of people here that’ll know- give the thread some time to catch on. I’d bet @Furi15 or @WI_Hedgehog would know
I'm more of a minimalist in the plumbing department because "anything that can go wrong will go wrong" (@Kbuskill helped me understand that one), so this isn't my area of expertise. One other note: Honda's goal is to hide the fact the Fury is liquid cooled as much as practical.

There are fluid flow calculations you can look up, but for simplicity if you ignore resistance:
Area = π * (tube_diameter / 2)^2

Radiator hose:
3.14 * (1-1/8" / 2)^2 = 1 square inch
vs
Helix Cooler:
3.14 * (1/4" / 2)^2 = 0.05 square inch

Which very roughly suggests the helix cooler would flow at best 5% of the volume of the radiator hose.

Since most people dislike math (even the simplified stuff above), think of breathing through a snorkeling tube versus through one of those tiny drinking straws.

Rolling that up: adding a tiny drinking straw to a snorkel to add capacity would make a person look silly--still, some people would do it. Someone else might make a snorkel from a wad of tiny straws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You might be in trouble with your proposed choice of coolant. The different colour coolants are so you can quickly tell the difference between the different formulas. If I remember correctly the coolant used by Honda for the Fury is green.
If this mod is for cosmetic purposes only then just block off the tubes and fill the thing up with whatever coolant you like, just don't connect it to the cooling system. I doubt you would get any noticeable difference adding a few hundred mils of extra coolant as the Honda engineers spent a lot of time and money getting the cooling system to perform well in a wide range of conditions. Plus all the extra connections are additional points of failure in a pressurised system that would spray beyond boiling water all over the bike and you in the event of a failure.
The coolant I found was more of a dyed one I'll upload a link or pic later but is not the normal stock color codes or whatever. And your most likely 100% right about causing more damage than good lol thanks for input guys Givin me more ways to look at it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm more of a minimalist in the plumbing department because "anything that can go wrong will go wrong" (@Kbuskill helped me understand that one), so this isn't my area of expertise. One other note: Honda's goal is to hide the fact the Fury is liquid cooled as much as practical.

There are fluid flow calculations you can look up, but for simplicity if you ignore resistance:
Area = π * (tube_diameter / 2)^2

Radiator hose:
3.14 * (1-1/8" / 2)^2 = 1 square inch
vs
Helix Cooler:
3.14 * (1/4" / 2)^2 = 0.05 square inch

Which very roughly suggests the helix cooler would flow at best 5% of the volume of the radiator hose.

Since most people dislike math (even the simplified stuff above), think of breathing through a snorkeling tube versus through one of those tiny drinking straws.

Rolling that up: adding a tiny drinking straw to a snorkel to add capacity would make a person look silly--still, some people would do it. Someone else might make a snorkel from a wad of tiny straws.
Very well explained, thank you for this! Lots to think about
 

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Our bikes are actually equipped with more than enough coolant capacity. I know you said it was for looks as well as cooling. You really don't want to interrupt the coolant flow and force the water pump to push more than it was designed too. With a reduced Diameter hose, that will force a lot of stress on the water pump, and you will blow one of those lines, I don't care how good they are crimped, or what you make them out of. The best way to create a more efficient coolant system is with a larger radiator, and we both know that doesn't exist for our bikes The only way to reduce the operating temperature is to have it lowered by resetting it in the ECU (reflashing is out of the equation now). Factory is set to 212*, so it doesn't matter how much more volume you add, the operating temperature will always be the same. This is just me saying and it's my opinion only, DON'T DO IT. Those tubes will be nothing more than a obstruction in the flow path.
 

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Our bikes are actually equipped with more than enough coolant capacity. I know you said it was for looks as well as cooling. You really don't want to interrupt the coolant flow and force the water pump to push more than it was designed too. With a reduced Diameter hose, that will force a lot of stress on the water pump, and you will blow one of those lines, I don't care how good they are crimped, or what you make them out of. The best way to create a more efficient coolant system is with a larger radiator, and we both know that doesn't exist for our bikes The only way to reduce the operating temperature is to have it lowered by resetting it in the ECU (reflashing is out of the equation now). Factory is set to 212*, so it doesn't matter how much more volume you add, the operating temperature will always be the same. This is just me saying and it's my opinion only, DON'T DO IT. Those tubes will be nothing more than a obstruction in the flow path.
If you don't mind me adding a few observations (for those who want them, not to be nit-picky):

The Fury has "just barely enough" cooling capacity, but "enough." The mechanical thermostat (flow regulator) keeps the engine temperature constant, flowing more or less coolant volumetrically as needed. If the flow regulator (thermostat) is fully open and there is insufficient air flow over the radiator to keep the coolant "not hot" the radiator fan turns on. On scorching hot days under load the Fury's cooling system manages, though doesn't have much headroom.

I understand @K3v1n wants to add the system in parallel, not series, and given the low volume of flow it should not really affect the cooling system (unless it breaks).

Water pumps are under more stress (load) when they pump more fluid, similar to a vacuum cleaner motor spinning slower when the hose is not blocked. Pumping an increased volume requires an increased amount of power.

Reducing the operating temperature is done by changing the mechanical thermostat to one that opens at a lower temperature. Owners having their ECU reflashed generally had the radiator fan "on" temperature set to the mechanical thermostat "full open" temperature; it didn't hide the use of liquid cooling as well but gave the system more cooling headroom and extended oil life.

There's really not a "more efficient" cooling system, Honda engineered an amazing, balanced solution. A larger radiator would give more cooling capacity, but in almost all cases isn't needed. (I'm unaware of a Fury overheating.)

Remember I'm an old crusty dude just trying to help, not criticizing anyone's statements.
 

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If you don't mind me adding a few observations (for those who want them, not to be nit-picky):

The Fury has "just barely enough" cooling capacity, but "enough." The mechanical thermostat (flow regulator) keeps the engine temperature constant, flowing more or less coolant volumetrically as needed. If the flow regulator (thermostat) is fully open and there is insufficient air flow over the radiator to keep the coolant "not hot" the radiator fan turns on. On scorching hot days under load the Fury's cooling system manages, though doesn't have much headroom.

I understand @K3v1n wants to add the system in parallel, not series, and given the low volume of flow it should not really affect the cooling system (unless it breaks).

Water pumps are under more stress (load) when they pump more fluid, similar to a vacuum cleaner motor spinning slower when the hose is not blocked. Pumping an increased volume requires an increased amount of power.

Reducing the operating temperature is done by changing the mechanical thermostat to one that opens at a lower temperature. Owners having their ECU reflashed generally had the radiator fan "on" temperature set to the mechanical thermostat "full open" temperature; it didn't hide the use of liquid cooling as well but gave the system more cooling headroom and extended oil life.

There's really not a "more efficient" cooling system, Honda engineered an amazing, balanced solution. A larger radiator would give more cooling capacity, but in almost all cases isn't needed. (I'm unaware of a Fury overheating.)

Remember I'm an old crusty dude just trying to help, not criticizing anyone's statements.
I always enjoy being mentioned in posts about subjects that I have completely forgotten we talked about... But you are welcome just the same.

Definitely an old and crusty here.

Old age and treachery overcome youth and inexperience every time... lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm more of a minimalist in the plumbing department because "anything that can go wrong will go wrong" (@Kbuskill helped me understand that one), so this isn't my area of expertise. One other note: Honda's goal is to hide the fact the Fury is liquid cooled as much as practical.

There are fluid flow calculations you can look up, but for simplicity if you ignore resistance:
Area = π * (tube_diameter / 2)^2

Radiator hose:
3.14 * (1-1/8" / 2)^2 = 1 square inch
vs
Helix Cooler:
3.14 * (1/4" / 2)^2 = 0.05 square inch

Which very roughly suggests the helix cooler would flow at best 5% of the volume of the radiator hose.

Since most people dislike math (even the simplified stuff above), think of breathing through a snorkeling tube versus through one of those tiny drinking straws.

Rolling that up: adding a tiny drinking straw to a snorkel to add capacity would make a person look silly--still, some people would do it. Someone else might make a snorkel from a wad of tiny straws.
Very well explained, thank you for this! Lots to think
If you don't mind me adding a few observations (for those who want them, not to be nit-picky):

The Fury has "just barely enough" cooling capacity, but "enough." The mechanical thermostat (flow regulator) keeps the engine temperature constant, flowing more or less coolant volumetrically as needed. If the flow regulator (thermostat) is fully open and there is insufficient air flow over the radiator to keep the coolant "not hot" the radiator fan turns on. On scorching hot days under load the Fury's cooling system manages, though doesn't have much headroom.

I understand @K3v1n wants to add the system in parallel, not series, and given the low volume of flow it should not really affect the cooling system (unless it breaks).

Water pumps are under more stress (load) when they pump more fluid, similar to a vacuum cleaner motor spinning slower when the hose is not blocked. Pumping an increased volume requires an increased amount of power.

Reducing the operating temperature is done by changing the mechanical thermostat to one that opens at a lower temperature. Owners having their ECU reflashed generally had the radiator fan "on" temperature set to the mechanical thermostat "full open" temperature; it didn't hide the use of liquid cooling as well but gave the system more cooling headroom and extended oil life.

There's really not a "more efficient" cooling system, Honda engineered an amazing, balanced solution. A larger radiator would give more cooling capacity, but in almost all cases isn't needed. (I'm unaware of a Fury overheating.)

Remember I'm an old crusty dude just trying to help, not criticizing anyone's statements.
Thank you all for the vast amounts of Info as well as taking the time to explain everything in such detail for the minimal minded such as myself. # operation squashed lol now what should I do with these damn things! Haha maybe I'll wire in my extra water fountain pump and run water thru it with a jack Daniel's bottle for reservoir haha does absolutely nothing other than circulate water and "appear" to be hooked up. Or just attach somewhere and add more red glow lights
 

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Very well explained, thank you for this! Lots to think

Thank you all for the vast amounts of Info as well as taking the time to explain everything in such detail for the minimal minded such as myself. # operation squashed lol now what should I do with these damn things! Haha maybe I'll wire in my extra water fountain pump and run water thru it with a jack Daniel's bottle for reservoir haha does absolutely nothing other than circulate water and "appear" to be hooked up. Or just attach somewhere and add more red glow lights
I vote lights and a jack Daniels dispenser!
 

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As a note, these are Personal Computer decorative water cooling reservoirs made in China from acrylic for use with Ultra Violate died water, they don't actually shed heat (a separate radiator does that), and may [adversely] flavor liquids. (They also do not hold up to vibration well.) Maybe use the water cooling components for PC water cooling, though personally I'd use less risky components...(there are a lot of internal connections and the gaskets aren't stellar quality).

--
What is a caveman's favorite thing to do on a Friday night?
Go clubbing.
 
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