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Discussion Starter #201
Hope you don't mind that I did...I need to get a more side angle shot for it to really compare. My swingarm does look a bit more "torqued" than yours though:

Yes... that's all the way down.

Your swing arm looks like it has a bit more angle but your pic is shot from a downward angle and mine was taken from a lower angle.

You can definitely tell I T-modded because yours still has the telltale fender gap at the back... lol
True about the fender, but also my LED tail doesn't wrap around to the side so it's really hard to tell the difference.

An update on the ptfe shims, they didn't work. I'll elaborate tomorrow on what was going on, but I have a solution
 
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Hope you don't mind that I did...I need to get a more side angle shot for it to really compare. My swingarm does look a bit more "torqued" than yours though:

Yes... that's all the way down.

Your swing arm looks like it has a bit more angle but your pic is shot from a downward angle and mine was taken from a lower angle.

You can definitely tell I T-modded because yours still has the telltale fender gap at the back... lol
True about the fender, but also my LED tail doesn't wrap around to the side so it's really hard to tell the difference.

An update on the ptfe shims, they didn't work. I'll elaborate tomorrow on what was going on, but I have a solution
Jeez! Quit dicking around and just install the bumpstops I posted up a bunch of times...you are spending too much time on a damn bumpstop sir.
?
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Jeez! Quit dicking around and just install the bumpstops I posted up a bunch of times...you are spending too much time on a damn bumpstop sir.
?
Haha I know, tinker tinker. But this is a safety thing now. My measurements are correct, but the 80 duro is flexing too much and the threaded portion of the cylinder is actually "wedging" itself into the hole of the bumpstop. I will make it right tho! It's so close!
 
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Discussion Starter #204 (Edited)
Well my "solution" arrived last night, to my dismay, it didn't work either.

I ordered a set of the energy suspensions 9.8143G bushing...I thought it would be perfect as it's a poly bushing that has a 3/4" ID that matches the shaft diameter of the cylinder and it's slightly taller than what I currently have so it would allow some squish:


Unfortunately it squished too much still under the load of the bike and my azz and I was back to tire on frame.

I could cut some aluminum spacers and end this, but I'm trying to avoid any type of metal to shaft contact for rubbing purposes.

@NDM I'm surprised your bump stops haven't given out as they seem to be very similar to what I have. Have you tested it out with the weight of you on the bike as well? Reason I ask is everything works swimmingly until you put a load on the bike (like a rider, or you bounce on it to simulate hitting something in the road)
 
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Well my "solution" arrived last night, to my dismay, it didn't work either.

I ordered a set of the energy suspensions 9.8143G bushing...I thought it would be perfect as it's a poly bushing that has a 3/4" ID that matches the shaft diameter of the cylinder and it's slightly taller than what I currently have so it would allow some squish:


Unfortunately it squished too much still under the load of the bike and my azz and I was back to tire on frame.

I could cut some aluminum spacers and end this, but I'm trying to avoid any type of metal to shaft contact for rubbing purposes.

@NDM I'm surprised your bump stops haven't given out as they seem to be very similar to what I have. Have you tested it out with the weight of you on the bike as well? Reason I ask is everything works swimmingly until you put a load on the bike (like a rider, or you bounce on it to simulate hitting something in the road)
Stack a couple fender washers under the bump stop and call it good enough.

Down side is it may sound like loose change while riding the bike... people would swear it's a Hardley with parts falling off... lol
 

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Discussion Starter #206
Stack a couple fender washers under the bump stop and call it good enough.

Down side is it may sound like loose change while riding the bike... people would swear it's a Hardley with parts falling off... lol
Bought some brass ones today so they don't mar up the stainless shaft. I'll update and see how that works. True about the rattling...Maybe one of these under the stop and a teflon one on top will do the trick...
 

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Discussion Starter #207
And like a dumbass I ran my compressor a ton the other night working on the bike. Installed the new bump stop setup tonight then flipped the bike on... dead battery. Should have had the tender plugged in. Can't test the setup tonight. More work postponed
 
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Discussion Starter #208
I think me killing my battery might have ended it's useful life. I went out this morning after having on the tender for about 8 hours overnight. Turned the key on, headlights and tail light and fuel pump came on, but it wouldn't turn over, not even like it was trying at all. When I hit the starter the fuel light would turn on, then go off when I released it.

I'll let it charge more but I think it's toast.
 

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Both chargers use a high frequency pulse desulfator but Battery Minder costs double the CTEK.
I'm still using the AGM battery that Honda put in my Fury 9 years ago! It's always plugged in to my CTEK MUS 4.3 when not riding.

AGM batteries need a slightly higher charging voltage and if your charger doesn't have an AGM mode you'll need a new charger anyway.
When a battery is sulfated (discharged) you need pulse charging to remove the sulphate from the lead plates.
When the battery is all but dead CTEK's reconditioning mode can save it.

The Battery Minder matching CTEK's 4 amps does not appear to have a reconditioning mode.




 

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....The Battery Minder matching CTEK's 4 amps does not appear to have a reconditioning mode.
Desulfating...it's automatically activated, not manually (it desulfates any time it reasonably can). There's also temperature compensation with BatteryMinder.
 

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Desulfating...it's automatically activated, not manually (it desulfates any time it reasonably can).
As is the CTEK and every other desulfating charger/maintainer:wink: Unfortunately, the less expensive charger/maintainers lack the desulphating feature.
If you look at the chart you will see that RECOND is a seperate function.
After 9 years on the original battery I'd say the Auto-Temp Compensation Sensor is not a deal maker especially with the cost of the 2/4/8 amp Battery minder.
Lots of folks have a favorite charger but are they still riding with an original 9 year old battery ???
 

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Discussion Starter #214
I'm using this, but it doesn't have reconditioning mode:


Like I mentioned it was on the bike all night, and there was still a flashing green which means it's got an 80% charge. That's after 8+ hours. I'll be home tomorrow and can check the bike again. The headlights and speedo came on this morning, but no start and I could tell the charge wasn't lasting long as the headlight started to dim. Oh I also got the neutral light this morning which I didn't get last night
 
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I'm using this, but it doesn't have reconditioning mode:


Like I mentioned it was on the bike all night, and there was still a flashing green which means it's got an 80% charge. That's after 8+ hours. I'll be home tomorrow and can check the bike again. The headlights and speedo came on this morning, but no start and I could tell the charge wasn't lasting long as the headlight started to dim. Oh I also got the neutral light this morning which I didn't get last night
It also doesn't have desulphation or enough voltage for your AGM battery :surprise: The low amperage is only good for maintaining a charged battery. ¾ amp won't light up a flea !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #216
It also doesn't have desulphation or enough voltage for your AGM battery :surprise:
I'm not sure I have an OEM battery at this point, but if my charging unit can't even trickle charge it...although I've had this tender on a couple of years now and it's done its job up to this point.

Does the AGM battery fit snugly in the battery box? The one I have in there has "plenty" of room to wiggle about.

I'll check it again tomorrow but if it won't start the bike then I think it's time to ditch that POS and bite the bullet...
 

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Discussion Starter #217

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Where'd you get the fancy charging meter for your CTek?
From CTEK (same place I bought the MUS 4.3) :rolleyes:
With the CTEK Comfort Indicator Panel securely mounted it's a one handed operation to plug in every time I park in the garage.

Or you can use the free hanging version ...

Does the AGM battery fit snugly in the battery box? The one I have in there has "plenty" of room to wiggle about.
Yuasa YTZ14S, Dimensions (in) 6 x 3 7/16 x 4 3/8

Haven't seen my battery in years ... and years >:)


I'll check it again tomorrow but if it won't start the bike then I think it's time to ditch that POS and bite the bullet...
I have 8 of these chargers and they pay for themselves by more than doubling the life of all my battery started machinery.
 

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Discussion Starter #219
I'll have to look into that tender. I'd like to not have to buy a new battery at this point since the one that is in there has been working flawlessly since I've owned the bike. I wouldnt think one kill like this would send it to its grave...
 

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...Does the AGM battery fit snugly in the battery box?...
Yes, it's a snug fit without any extra room, or at least "not much" extra room--it's tight!

I'll check it again tomorrow but if it won't start the bike then I think it's time to ditch that POS and bite the bullet...
I don't know what you're using as the picture bombed out thanks to "the cloud" hosting the forum (and image upload being mostly broken), but it's probably the battery maintainer that's at fault--if you could start your bike previously and now can't after draining the battery with the on-board compressor, it's probably the maintainer and not the battery that's the weakest point. Your battery may also be fairly well used, but it should bounce back better than that.
 
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