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I don't know what you're using as the picture bombed out thanks to "the cloud" hosting the forum (and image upload being mostly broken), but it's probably the battery maintainer that's at fault ...
As noted earlier it's only a ¾ amp maintainer so we are in agreement that the maintainer isn't capable of charging a sulfated battery.
I'll have to look into that tender. I'd like to not have to buy a new battery at this point since the one that is in there has been working flawlessly since I've owned the bike. I wouldnt think one kill like this would send it to its grave...
I you go the CTEK route don't cheap out and get anything less than the MUS 4.3 and go straight to the RECOND mode keeping in mind that mode shouldn't be used more that once a year. If you keep the CTEK hooked up when not riding you won't need to do another RECOND. If you battery is an AGM (no sloshing acid inside) use the snowflake (*) mode once it is reconditioned. I used the bike mode initially, years ago, which didn't do the job mostly because mine is an AGM. If you have a 'sloshing' electrolyte then I think I'd use the car mode. Our undersized batteries have to work pretty hard. Available at Amazon for $68.95

Even if you end up buying a new battery the CTEK will pay for itself by not having to replace that battery in 3 years :wink:
 

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From CTEK (same place I bought the MUS 4.3) :rolleyes:
With the CTEK Comfort Indicator Panel securely mounted it's a one handed operation to plug in every time I park in the garage.

Or you can use the free hanging version ...


Yuasa YTZ14S, Dimensions (in) 6 x 3 7/16 x 4 3/8

Haven't seen my battery in years ... and years >:)



I have 8 of these chargers and they pay for themselves by more than doubling the life of all my battery started machinery.
How do you expect to monitor your battery if you don't look at it?:biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #223
Look what I found.....helluva deal. Buying tonight, am talking with the guy.
I'll get that ctek too
 
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Discussion Starter #224
Well, I've been having a hell of a time lately with the bike.
I love my air setup, but I have to say although clean, the manual toggles on the side cover are tough to work with if you need to get that cover off. The way the line is routed, there is really no give to pop the lines off the toggles, nor to get your hands in there. Since I was prepping for the EarthX battery, I needed to get the cover off. I ended up having to cut the lines. I'm going to have to figure out a better routing solution as well, as where I originally had (through the swingarm) was starting to develop some rub. Running wires through there is fine, but the air lines become too bulky at full droop.

So now I need to re-route air lines, as well as add a quick disconnect at a spot I can get to if I need to take that cover off. That is proving to be tricky, as the only place that has room for fat fingers down by the air cylinder shaft somewhere.

So Now I'm pretty much starting over on my routing for this. I will update
 

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Discussion Starter #225
She's all back together, good to have the bike back again.
Got my routing much better, which will allow me to remove the cover but I have to take the air out of the lines (no big deal). I have a connection point by the fender frame which I can reach in there and disconnect.

I also found out what I like my settings at for a great ride. I'm about 185 give or take. This is done on the kickstand. The bike lifts fully approximately with 100+ psi in the chamber. I'll then keep increasing the chamber pressure until it reads about 125 psi. I'll switch over to the rebound chamber until I'm approximately at 150 psi on the ride height and 70-ish psi on the rebound chamber. Characteristics work great for me.
 

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Well my "solution" arrived last night, to my dismay, it didn't work either.

I ordered a set of the energy suspensions 9.8143G bushing...I thought it would be perfect as it's a poly bushing that has a 3/4" ID that matches the shaft diameter of the cylinder and it's slightly taller than what I currently have so it would allow some squish:


Unfortunately it squished too much still under the load of the bike and my azz and I was back to tire on frame.

I could cut some aluminum spacers and end this, but I'm trying to avoid any type of metal to shaft contact for rubbing purposes.

@NDM I'm surprised your bump stops haven't given out as they seem to be very similar to what I have. Have you tested it out with the weight of you on the bike as well? Reason I ask is everything works swimmingly until you put a load on the bike (like a rider, or you bounce on it to simulate hitting something in the road)
Just an update.....my bumpstops are still going strong over a year later.....fyi
 

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Discussion Starter #227
Just an update.....my bumpstops are still going strong over a year later.....fyi
Yup my final modified version (the blue doughnut with washers) has been working great. Can slam it without the fender touching the tire, even if I try to bounce on it. I have been able to rest easy knowing everything will be ok even if I hit a pothole after losing all air in the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #228 (Edited)
Update

So to update my build thread on my air ride, I have gone ahead and ordered a cushioned cylinder per @NDM ('s) good find.

I opted to go with a Bimba cylinder this time that has the ports rotated 90*, which means the NPT ports will be on the underside of the cylinder and the cushion screws will be facing towards the non-drive side.

Bimba PN C-702-DXPK:



Now the cylinder comes with a 1/2" diameter bushing in the front mount, to which in an earlier post I made a custom reducer bushing to accommodate the M10 bolt.

This time I'm going to do it a bit differently.

I ordered 2 of these from McMaster (to see which one I will like better, alloy vs stainless, but I'll probably go for strength with the alloy version):



They have a 12 mm (.472") body with an M10 thread so it will still fit through the stock bracket. Shaft length is 30mm, which is approximately 1 mm longer than the width of the OEM mount (28.5mm). The Bimba cylinder has a mounting width of .88" (22.4 mm) so I'll need a couple of M12 washers to take up the missing space/width of the cylinder mount.

Stock nut should fit on either of these shoulder bolts.

My setup will take some different routing now since the air fittings will be on the bottom, but there is much more space down there so I'll be able to use some standard fittings without having to tap deeper in the cylinder.

Once I have this all completed, I'll have my old cylinder posted on here for cheap. Since it already has fittings and a reducer bushing for stock forward hardware, it will be an easy plug n play for those that want an awesome air ride setup!
 

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Discussion Starter #229
I want to update this thread as I was losing some air in the system on both ends, the air cylinder and the air can (the storage can for the instant up).

I knew this because every 10 minutes or so, the compressor would kick on to refill. So it wasn't a bad leak. But while I was waiting for my forwards to get delivered, I yanked the whole system. I used the thread goup that's supposed to be the best (they think so at least by the price $$$) and it wasn't doing the trick.

So, knowing that this system will really never get changed, I used "The Right Stuff" gasket maker on all of the threaded connections.

Rode the bike after it set up, let the compressor charge the air reservoir reserve, and let it sit over night. turned the key this morning to ride to work, and no sound of the compressor kicking on. Everything is sealed again. So if you plan on doing this, don't bother with tape or fancy goup, this stuff worked insanely well.

I've sealed holes in my VW Golf's vacuum system as well and it's held up.

Plus I didn't lose any air on the ride into work this morning!
 

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I want to update this thread as I was losing some air in the system on both ends, the air cylinder and the air can (the storage can for the instant up).

I knew this because every 10 minutes or so, the compressor would kick on to refill. So it wasn't a bad leak. But while I was waiting for my forwards to get delivered, I yanked the whole system. I used the thread goup that's supposed to be the best (they think so at least by the price $$$) and it wasn't doing the trick.

So, knowing that this system will really never get changed, I used "The Right Stuff" gasket maker on all of the threaded connections.

Rode the bike after it set up, let the compressor charge the air reservoir reserve, and let it sit over night. turned the key this morning to ride to work, and no sound of the compressor kicking on. Everything is sealed again. So if you plan on doing this, don't bother with tape or fancy goup, this stuff worked insanely well.

I've sealed holes in my VW Golf's vacuum system as well and it's held up.

Plus I didn't lose any air on the ride into work this morning!
Locktite 565.... since I found this stuff I been 100% leak free. It is used in the aircraft industry. Accuair which is essentially the premier air suspension air management company these days reccomend it too.

From their site...
Q: I have heard that it is impossible to have a vehicle with Air Suspension that doesn’t leak, is this true?
A: No. We have found that pipe threads are the most common leak point. Our VU4 Valve Unit eliminates 6 of the culprits and minimizes the number of pipe threads on most systems to 8, instead of 14 or more. For the 8 pipe threads that you will have left, AccuAir includes a special “anaerobic” liquid sealant that has proven unbeatable. AccuAir only uses D.O.T. (Department of Transportation) approved P.T.C. (Push to Connect) fittings and line, which is also essential for eliminating leaks. (Always make sure to cut your plastic line squarely with a sharp blade to avoid tearing the fitting’s o-ring upon insertion). NEVER USE DIAGONAL CUTTERS!
 

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Discussion Starter #231
So to update my build thread on my air ride, I have gone ahead and ordered a cushioned cylinder per @NDM ('s) good find.

I opted to go with a Bimba cylinder this time that has the ports rotated 90*, which means the NPT ports will be on the underside of the cylinder and the cushion screws will be facing towards the non-drive side.

Bimba PN C-702-DXPK:

It's weird that my photo above said it was no longer available, even though it's in my folder. It's like the link changed or something, so I fixed it in my quote above.

Anyway, I've had some pretty exhausting, frustrating nights. I guess that's all part of the experience though.

1st off, when I received the cylinder at work, I immediately went to shortening the threads, exactly in the way that I did for the last air ride. No problem.

Got home, tore the bike down to be able to get the original cylinder out. This is when everything went to shit. I was going to use those McMaster shoulder bolts instead of the OEM top shock bolt. Well, I realized that I needed to drill out one side of that upper shock bracket ear to accommodate the 12mm body of the shoulder bolt. No big deal. Until my bit walked really bad, snapped and oversized one hole too big. It also chewed up the hole pretty bad. I got it smoothed out to where I could make it work which was nice, but I was mad at how much material was removed, and you can't just buy that upper shock bracket assembly, even from OEM!!!! It comes as part of the entire shock assembly. Mine will work as is, but it's got slop, so I'm going to have to hope that it stays ok.

I've contacted some parts vendors that are selling scrapped Fury's and no one will separate that mount from the shock.

Oh well, I figured with the correct sized washer clamped to the OD of the ear, it would work. Started to assemble the new cylinder, went to tighten the nut on, and realized it has different threads than OEM (ie the threads on the OEM bolt are fine, not coarse). By this time I was pretty frustrated. I knew that I couldn't install my new cylinder. Well, at least I could test fit it right?

Took my home made bracket off and installed it on the new cylinder (remember, with the new port fitting orientation).
Went to test fit, there's no way that the bottom port with a fitting installed is going to clear the fuel filter. It's right in the mess of the hoses and interferes with the filter housing cover.

So now I have a $230 paperweight I can't return because I cut the shaft threads down to size, and a "custom" upper shock mount bracket..

So I did what any DIY'er would do...started drilling more holes.

I was determined to use this cylinder. So I went to town and drilled and tapped 1/8" NPT ports at the 45* I originally needed them turned at, in hopes that I wasn't going to run into something important clocked at that angle. Luckily there was nothing, and I was able to install the push connect fittings at the orientation I desired. I did use composite fittings, but they're rated for the same pressure as the brass coated ones. Then, I plugged the original ports on the cylinder (3/8 npt) with some hex head plugs that sit close to flush.

That's where it sits now. I'm waiting for a couple of bushings to get in for the cylinder, then I can finish the install of the new cylinder, again.

Although, I tracked down a slow leak I had. One of the valve stem cores had worked loose in the schrader connections I was using to read my gauge pressure from.
e
While I was in there, I decided to re-do the setup. Instead of those chincy connectors I was using before, screwed onto the presta valves, I just made the valves in-line with the setup using a push connect T. Much cleaner than before, and still serves the same purpose, as an emergency fill port(s) if my compressor should for some reason fail:



I'll post some more photos of the modified-modified cylinder.

Contemplating of weld building up the oversized hole on the bracket ear and then re-drilling, but I'm not sure yet.

Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #233
What a mess @krashDH, but you're working through it! Remember if you weld-repair the hole the weld area is going to be hard given the weld is going to cool off fast and the steel will become hard and brittle unless you stress-relieve it afterward.
Preheat and a weld blanket until it's cooled:).
But I don't know if it's even worth going down that route.
 
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Discussion Starter #234
Well, the front and back end of the bike are completely tore down now waiting on some triples, so it was a good time to mock up the new cylinder.

Here's the cushioned cylinder, with the OEM 3/8 NPT ports plugged and the added 1/8 NPT's added @ 45*. I went overboard with "the Right Stuff" on the old ports because having the coating of it on the threads sticking out from the cylinder ensures that any rubbing (if any) if the fuel lines occurs, it will be rubber on rubber contact and won't wear thru anything:



A top shot looking down next to the old preload adjuster mount:



And a shot looking in from the side cover. The 45* angle is perfect for the ports, gives plenty of room and very easy access (mocked up but not bolted in the top location yet):



I am receiving a bushing in the mail today that will allow to run OEM hardware in the cylinder. I did have to press the bushing out of the cylinder to run the new one, but it will fit the M10 bolt with only using 1 bushing. I should have the rear end back together tonight or tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #235
Got the new bushing in last night. 5/8 OD x 3/8 ID x 27/32 long (.843). The eye width in the cylinder is .850 wide, so worked out nicely. Drilled it out to 10mm for the bolt and you get a very nice slip fit.

Got the cylinder in last night and played with the cushion settings, just by activating the swingarm by hand. It will take some riding to get it fine tuned, but I'm starting somewhere in the middle. The screws have approximately 6 total turns of adjustment, I'm starting in the middle @ 3 turns for both.



 

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Discussion Starter #236
First Ride

First ride on the new cushioned cylinder last night. It was incredible. No more pogo feel and the bike actually feels damped now. There is control over small bumps and there is no more pogo (kinda like a blown shock on your vehicle) over larger wallows in the road. I also noticed that I could run it at lower pressure in the main chamber (fill chamber, not rebound chamber) without worrying about blowing through all the travel, because the cushion is more of a "catchers mitt" as you reach that point.

Don't get me wrong, the original air cylinder was leaps in comfort and adjust ability over the coil, but the cushioned one improves on that.

The fittings at 45* work nicely for space.

I'll fully open and fully close the cushion screws just to see what it's like at both end of the spectrum, then fine tune it from there.

Once nice perk with this cyl is when you park the bike and slam it all the way down, with the old cyl it dropped fast right onto the bumpstop. Sometimes with such force that you could see the bike kinda "skip" on the pavement. With this new setup the cushion at the bottom solves that. You can unload the cylinder all at once and that cushion catches it and sets it down nicely on the bumpstop.
 

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Keep posting this stuff. Sometime I will set mine up. MAybe I'll buy the new cylinder you found...
 
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First ride on the new cushioned cylinder last night. It was incredible. No more pogo feel and the bike actually feels damped now. There is control over small bumps and there is no more pogo (kinda like a blown shock on your vehicle) over larger wallows in the road. I also noticed that I could run it at lower pressure in the main chamber (fill chamber, not rebound chamber) without worrying about blowing through all the travel, because the cushion is more of a "catchers mitt" as you reach that point.

Don't get me wrong, the original air cylinder was leaps in comfort and adjust ability over the coil, but the cushioned one improves on that.

The fittings at 45* work nicely for space.

I'll fully open and fully close the cushion screws just to see what it's like at both end of the spectrum, then fine tune it from there.

Once nice perk with this cyl is when you park the bike and slam it all the way down, with the old cyl it dropped fast right onto the bumpstop. Sometimes with such force that you could see the bike kinda "skip" on the pavement. With this new setup the cushion at the bottom solves that. You can unload the cylinder all at once and that cushion catches it and sets it down nicely on the bumpstop.
Told you man....that cylinder is very nice.

I hardly worry at all about the pressure while riding now. It is a much better cylinder for this application.
 

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Do it. From the moment I found this cylinder, the airride has been simply amazing.
I bought all the major bits and pieces, then life got busy. Everytime I think about tearing the Fury down, I just end up riding it...
 
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