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Do it. From the moment I found this cylinder, the airride has been simply amazing.
I bought all the major bits and pieces, then life got busy. Everytime I think about tearing the Fury down, I just end up riding it...
Totally get it but man the airride is nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #242
Update...again.

:frown:

Welp, the cushioned air cylinder was nice...for a couple weeks.

All was good until I was heading into work yesterday morning. I noticed on the ride that the bike was getting lower and lower on my way. By the time I had done my 35 mile commute, I was riding on the bumpstop. I pulled over, and realized that I had lost pressure in my "fill" chamber and gained pressure in my "rebound" chamber. This was causing the bike to get lower and lower as I rode, and more harsh as well.

I was baffled for a minute, I know the system was tight because the non cushioned cylinder I had was holding air all day. I got soapy water to check for leaks and there were none.

Since I have a dual needle pressure gauge, I performed a leak down check on each chamber. With both chambers @ 0 psi, I first filled up the rebound chamber to about 150 psi and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes. Came back and checked and I was still at 150 and 0. Swapped it around, filled the "fill" chamber to 150 and set the rebound side to 0, waited the same amount of time and sure enough, the pressure had dropped in the fill chamber and increased in the rebound chamber.

So I have a slow leak internally in the cylinder from the fill--->rebound

The only other saving grace that I thought might be the issue would be the pressure gauge. I didn't look to see how the internals are set up, but I thought that maybe one side was leaking into the other through the gauge, which would cause this.

I went home and tore the bike down (I'm getting REALLY good at this and even got everything taken out without removing the tire this time!) and swapped back to the original Parker cylinder without the cushions and performed the same test. Both sides stayed at 150 psi and 0 (note that all these tests were done with the bike on the side stand).

So, something is internally wrong with my cushioned cylinder:[email protected]::[email protected]:

I've contacted the local rep to see if Bimba can actually even re-build these cylinders or not, but looking at the construction of it, it's doubtful. It will be on my own dime anyway as it's been modified (threads cut down to length, added those NPT ports @ 45*). Neither of those mods would have any cause of the symptoms I'm seeing, unless there was some FOD that got trapped under one of the piston seals during drilling tapping. I was very thorough to drill "upside down" so chips would fall out, as well I ran a borescope in there after to look for any chips, and didn't see anything.

We'll see what Bimba comes back with, but unfortunately, I'm guessing they won't do anything even if I pay them, so I'm left with a $320 paperweight.

Time to start selling things so I can buy another...
 

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:frown:

Welp, the cushioned air cylinder was nice...for a couple weeks.

All was good until I was heading into work yesterday morning. I noticed on the ride that the bike was getting lower and lower on my way. By the time I had done my 35 mile commute, I was riding on the bumpstop. I pulled over, and realized that I had lost pressure in my "fill" chamber and gained pressure in my "rebound" chamber. This was causing the bike to get lower and lower as I rode, and more harsh as well.

I was baffled for a minute, I know the system was tight because the non cushioned cylinder I had was holding air all day. I got soapy water to check for leaks and there were none.

Since I have a dual needle pressure gauge, I performed a leak down check on each chamber. With both chambers @ 0 psi, I first filled up the rebound chamber to about 150 psi and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes. Came back and checked and I was still at 150 and 0. Swapped it around, filled the "fill" chamber to 150 and set the rebound side to 0, waited the same amount of time and sure enough, the pressure had dropped in the fill chamber and increased in the rebound chamber.

So I have a slow leak internally in the cylinder from the fill--->rebound

The only other saving grace that I thought might be the issue would be the pressure gauge. I didn't look to see how the internals are set up, but I thought that maybe one side was leaking into the other through the gauge, which would cause this.

I went home and tore the bike down (I'm getting REALLY good at this and even got everything taken out without removing the tire this time!) and swapped back to the original Parker cylinder without the cushions and performed the same test. Both sides stayed at 150 psi and 0 (note that all these tests were done with the bike on the side stand).

So, something is internally wrong with my cushioned cylinder:[email protected]::[email protected]:

I've contacted the local rep to see if Bimba can actually even re-build these cylinders or not, but looking at the construction of it, it's doubtful. It will be on my own dime anyway as it's been modified (threads cut down to length, added those NPT ports @ 45*). Neither of those mods would have any cause of the symptoms I'm seeing, unless there was some FOD that got trapped under one of the piston seals during drilling tapping. I was very thorough to drill "upside down" so chips would fall out, as well I ran a borescope in there after to look for any chips, and didn't see anything.

We'll see what Bimba comes back with, but unfortunately, I'm guessing they won't do anything even if I pay them, so I'm left with a $320 paperweight.

Time to start selling things so I can buy another...
Wish there was a dislike button... I feel your pain.
 

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Discussion Starter #244
Wish there was a dislike button... I feel your pain.
Parker (the company I used for my first cylinder) quoted me $250 for a new cylinder with cushions.

Time to save the pennies. Again.
 

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Wish there was a dislike button... I feel your pain.
Parker (the company I used for my first cylinder) quoted me $250 for a new cylinder with cushions.

Time to save the pennies. Again.

Lucas 10008 Power Steering Stop Leak - 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPVNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FuHbDbX48VXD0

Spend a couple bucks on the lucas stopleak.(autozone) Remove the air fittings. Put a few drips of the stopleak in each port. Cycle the cylinder by hand.

Reinstall.....ride on. My original cylinder has held air since I removed it by using this method and is currently in use on a different project. Or...send me your "damaged" cylinder and I will do it and use it.

When you buy a new cylinder....use the lucas trick..It works...just saying.

Do not scrap that cylinder.....you can bench test the thing with Lucas to confirm that it works.
 

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Lucas 10008 Power Steering Stop Leak - 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPVNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FuHbDbX48VXD0

Spend a couple bucks on the lucas stopleak.(autozone) Remove the air fittings. Put a few drips of the stopleak in each port. Cycle the cylinder by hand.

Reinstall.....ride on. My original cylinder has held air since I removed it by using this method and is currently in use on a different project. Or...send me your "damaged" cylinder and I will do it and use it.

When you buy a new cylinder....use the lucas trick..It works...just saying.

Do not scrap that cylinder.....you can bench test the thing with Lucas to confirm that it works.
It's funny, I recommended that to him as well through text message... not Lucas specifically, but Power steering stop leak... lol
 

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Discussion Starter #248
Wish there was a dislike button... I feel your pain.
Parker (the company I used for my first cylinder) quoted me $250 for a new cylinder with cushions.

Time to save the pennies. Again.

Lucas 10008 Power Steering Stop Leak - 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPVNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FuHbDbX48VXD0

Spend a couple bucks on the lucas stopleak.(autozone) Remove the air fittings. Put a few drips of the stopleak in each port. Cycle the cylinder by hand.

Reinstall.....ride on. My original cylinder has held air since I removed it by using this method and is currently in use on a different project. Or...send me your "damaged" cylinder and I will do it and use it.

When you buy a new cylinder....use the lucas trick..It works...just saying.

Do not scrap that cylinder.....you can bench test the thing with Lucas to confirm that it works.
I'll try it and bench test it. But won't help if it's a chip in there from drilling the new ports in
 
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Discussion Starter #249
]

It's funny, I recommended that to him as well through text message... not Lucas specifically, but Power steering stop leak... lol
Yup, I can give it a go, but because of my customizing I don't have high hopes for it to work or last
 
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It's funny, I recommended that to him as well through text message... not Lucas specifically, but Power steering stop leak... lol
Yup, I can give it a go, but because of my customizing I don't have high hopes for it to work or last
I have a feeling that it will work because I had chips too in the original cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #251
I have a feeling that it will work because I had chips too in the original cylinder
Can't hurt. I'll add some and do a leak down.
 
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Discussion Starter #252
I wanted to bump this up because I finally ordered a custom cylinder how wanted it from BIMBA. Should have done this in the first place, but ya live and ya learn. This cylinder will work perfect for how our bikes are setup.

237164


237165


The blue port is the "new" angle that I am having them manufacture the ports to. Yeah yeah, you can drill and tap them yourself which is true, but I'm at a 50% success rate with that. The cylinder that's on my bike went well, the nicer cylinder that I bought later (cushioned) not so much. It was leaking between cylinders. I tried everything to make it work including the power steering stop leak that everyone suggested. Still no go. So that one is a paperweight.

They had to have an engineer custom draw it up and it's a custom Bimba part number:
COL-0027011-A

It's based off the original PN C-702-DXPK

You can see the modifications are the cylinders rotated 45* so the connections won't interfere with the frame, also the threads are cut down so they don't protrude into the swingarm mount for the rear bracket I made. Also allows for a bumbstop and safe riding if something fails (clearance between fender and tire if all air pressure is lost)

The one that's on the bike is nice, but I wanted the cushioned ends, it makes it a different ballgame.

Anyway, once I get it I'll install and remove the old one. If anyone is interested in an air cylinder for making a custom setup for their bike, I'll be selling the one that's on there currently, at a good price, to get someone in the "air ride" game. Much better than stock spring and fully adjustable, ride height, stiffness, rebound.
 
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If it works, I want to know! I will order one myself, and finally do the air ride...
 

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Discussion Starter #254
If it works, I want to know! I will order one myself, and finally do the air ride...
Yeah I'll keep this thread updated when I receive it, it should work great. That 45* placement for connections is basically in the "void" area away from the brake side frame rail. So the connections will be below and you won't need to tap anything deeper, or low profile connections, or what have you
 

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How much did this custom cushioned one cost you? My off the shelf one is doing just fine. I have about 3000 miles on it about.

When you get the new one, be sure to put a few dribbles of the stop leak before install for good measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #256
How much did this custom cushioned one cost you? My off the shelf one is doing just fine. I have about 3000 miles on it about.

When you get the new one, be sure to put a few dribbles of the stop leak before install for good measure.
Glad to hear yours is working well.
Mine isn't/wasn't. Whether off the shelf or not, something got in there and disrupted the seal between the chambers. Likely from me drilling and tapping new/deeper ports, even upside down to keep chips from falling in.

I'm not going to put anything inside when I get it. That will void the warranty. One of the main reasons I went this route this time.

I think I was around $270 for this cylinder.
 

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Glad to hear yours is working well.
Mine isn't/wasn't. Whether off the shelf or not, something got in there and disrupted the seal between the chambers. Likely from me drilling and tapping new/deeper ports, even upside down to keep chips from falling in.

I'm not going to put anything inside when I get it. That will void the warranty. One of the main reasons I went this route this time.

I think I was around $270 for this cylinder.
$270? Probably dig up that much out of my couch...
 

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Discussion Starter #258
$270? Probably dig up that much out of my couch...
Yeah it's not too bad for a 1-off, considering their engineers had to take the time to modify the drawing, create a new part number, send it through a review, and get the proper approvals.

Probably cost them thousands in engineers' time (between everyone who had to touch the change). Not a complicated drawing/modification but it adds up with all the approvals and reviews that go into engineering.
 
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