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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed the AutoTune on Monday night. I have gotten to ride it only once after the install due to the Nor'Easter that has drenched us here on the East Coast. It is supposed to take several rides for the AutoTune to get the adjustments correct so I really haven't seen a big change yet. The popping is gone on decell but I think that has more to do with disabling the PAIR system.

Here is what I did.

I have the D&M Spike Air Intake and Samson Warload II Slashers installed. After installing them my gas mileage went down and it starting popping on decell.

Removed the EVAP and PAIR systems. These must be removed because all fuel and air must be controlled. I used Biglry & Bone's Block Off Plates so that I did not have to disassemble the reed valve.

Had the O2 bung welded onto the front exhaust just above the rear brake reservoir. I installed the O2 sensor and routed the cable under the front cylinder top cover then followed the main wiring harness to the PCV by the battery. Installed the AutoTune module in front of the PCV and wired it in. I spliced the power wire to the wire that I had already routed for the side license plate mount. I want to stay away from the factory wiring harnesses as much as possible.

I started the bike and connected the PCV to my laptop. I turned on the AutoTune feature and the AFR came up on screen so I knew the O2 sensor was working.

I am using the only AFR table that is available from Power Commander. It is for the stock setup. I am not that knowledgeable about AFRs but for some reason I don't think that it is optimum so I contacted Power Commander and here is what they said:

AFR table set in our predeveloped maps are what we recommend for a nice blend of performance and economy for a naturally aspirated motor. You can customize your AFR targets more to your specifications if you like.

As long as the bike is not using nitrous, super/turbo chargers, or alternative fuels (E85, alcohol, etc.) these target AFR's will work fine.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Regards,

Chris Kelly
Dynojet Research
2191 Mendenhall Dr. Suite 105
North Las Vegas, NV 89081
1-800-992-4993


The response is not exactly what I wanted to hear. I don't want the target AFRs to be just fine, I want it tuned in. Maybe somebody with some experience with this could help me out.

I will post updates as things change.
 

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AutoTune

First of all, let me congratulate you for your pioneering spirit !!! Going where no FuryForums man has gone before can be a lonely adventure. Alas, we are here in spirit if not commitment to cheer you on. You remember the egg & bacon story...involved vs. committed.

One question comes to mind: Since the two cylinders will give off different readings how is the system intended to operate effectively on one cylinder alone ??? In the Harley V-twin application Dynojet says : For Harley Davidson models we even monitor and adjust each cylinder individually for increased precision as on these models required fueling can vary significantly between the front and rear cylinder. A few months back they told me they were developing a double AutoTune kit with two controllers and two O2 sensors to work with a single PCV on non Harley V-twins. Looking at their web site today would suggest they are still in the developmental stage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was worried about that also and here is what Power Commander had to say:

In the research we have done on the Fury we did not see any differences in the fuel curve in the front and rear cylinders so it would not be imperative to map the cylinders individually.

Regards,

Chris Kelly
Dynojet Research
2191 Mendenhall Dr. Suite 105
North Las Vegas, NV 89081
1-800-992-4993
 

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I was worried about that also and here is what Power Commander had to say:

In the research we have done on the Fury we did not see any differences in the fuel curve in the front and rear cylinders so it would not be imperative to map the cylinders individually.
Although that may be true I would think what comes out the header pipes will show a difference else why different cam and ignition timing for each cylinder as shown in the service manual ??? Alternative to the double AutoTune package I would consider welding in a crossover (H-pipe) connection where your Samson Warload II Slashers come together below the swingarm pivot and placing the wideband O2 sensor on the crossover between the pipes.
 

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wouldn't the temperature differences between the 2 cylinders also affect the O2 readings? i'm sure the rear would get a little toastier than the front. i don't know why all bikes with EFI doesn't come with O2 sensors, you won't find a car/truck without them.
 

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i don't know why all bikes with EFI doesn't come with O2 sensors, you won't find a car/truck without them.
I'm sure the EPA would love to hear from you. Just let them know that it's time all motorcycles in NA had OBD1 like the pre '96 cars do. Trouble is they will probably want OBD2 which requires a catalytic converter and there goes your after market exhaust systems. Cats aren't so easy to hide on a sleek bike exhaust and forget about loud 'cause the converters dial it down quite a bit.
 

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i don't care about the tree hugging EPA, i just want to be able to install aftermarket exhaust/intake and not have to throw away money on aftermarket computers and unnecessary dyno time
Hey, I'm on your side. Just wish Honda would do the Fury same as the VTX1800 with dual O2 sensors and tune as you go :).
 

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After you ride 10 to 15 miles the auto tune should build a map , Depending on how your riding at that time frame . low end , mid , and top end . you can hook your laptop up and download the map . You can run your PCV with your personnel map , are keep on auto tune as your riding changes . Cruising , aggressive , drag . Hope this made sense to you .
 

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Gar;

A consideration:

As you probably well know, placing the O2 sensor well downstream, by the crossover for instance, exposes it to the atmospheric suck-back effect, rendering the erroronious (sp?) readings associated with virtually all tailpipe probes. Possibly not the optimal approach.

Cheers
 

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Gar;

A consideration:

As you probably well know, placing the O2 sensor well downstream, by the crossover for instance, exposes it to the atmospheric suck-back effect, rendering the erroronious (sp?) readings associated with virtually all tailpipe probes. Possibly not the optimal approach.

Cheers
I would agree with you. I am certainly limited in my knowledge of this subject and would seek comfirmation from those that have tested O2 response so I wiil quote Dynojet: Positioning the weld bung in a location where multiple cylinders collect is the preferred location. Considering that the baffles are downstream of the crossover it may afterall be a viable location.
 

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Although that may be true I would think what comes out the header pipes will show a difference else why different cam and ignition timing for each cylinder as shown in the service manual ??? .
:confused: I could not find this in my manuals, the lift/dur are the same in both cams, and they share the same p/n as the VTX1300, timing was advanced on 1 cyl, probably why the motor runs smoother.
 

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Cam timing page 1-5, ignition timing page 19-3. (61MFR00)
I must have mis interpreted your post, when you said they were differant, they have to fire at a different point in the cycle, but the valves open the same and stay open the same duration, the tech did tell me (monthes ago)thay changed some of the timing to smooth out the engine
 

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Fuel Controllers

We have already developed exhaust systems for the Honda Fury for Europe and they all have an O2 sensor and bung in the head pipe. When we did our testing on our pipes and fuel controller, we test each pipe. (Mayhems, Reaper) The O2 reading needs to come from both pipes to get an accurate reading and set-up the controller. The in-take manifold allows fuel to be robbed from one cylinder to the other and the controller needs to be set-up to compensate for this or one cylinder will be getting all the fuel. This problem is inherent to most all V-twin motors.

It seems to me that you be better off buying a controller that has already been tested and set-up for the exhaust and air-filter changes that are being made, than spend the $500 to $600 for a controller, Dyno testing or an auto-tune system that requires you to weld in bungs into the new pipe you just bought and that now need to be re-chromed.

We have done the testing for you and have taken all the cost out of it for you. We know what works and how the bike will respond with the systems we have set-up. Save your money. You can tune and tune your bike with other controllers, but you are only going to get similar results. The Honda Fury motor only has so much to give and we feel we have tuned the bike about as good as it’s going to get. Unless someone comes up with different cam’s.

Doug
Fuggin Fabrication
 
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