Back in Black...

2300 Views 72 Replies 12 Participants Last post by justfurious, 1 d ago

Tknj99

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

.. i hit the sack, its been so long i'm glad to be back... you get the drift!

Well, after a 3 year hiatus since selling by former Fury, affectionately known as Red Bull, i'm just about back again.. plan to buy this 2012 Fury tomorrow.. my favorite color, 10k miles, presumably showroom condition and a completely stock blank canvas for me to mod again.. luckily i remember some of my old tricks, so will be anxious to share as it progresses.
I'm thinking the name "Blue Ballz" but not sure yet, any suggestions are welcome, my kids make a silly smirk anytime i mention that

Some background that led to today.. after owning Red Bull for 5 years and modding to where i liked her, i started to get bored and wanted to try something new, maybe it was a mid-life crisis, but i got a ZX14R for a short stint and couldn't get her as comfortable as i wanted (that bike was silly fast though omg!)... sold and then bought a CSC RX4 (Chinese ADV) but it was heavy and sluggish on the open road, sold that and bought a Mean Streak, had that for a bit, sold and bought a new M109R for a short while, but again wasn't as comfortable as i had hoped for especially 2-up, sold and bought my current bike a 2009 Raider S, but same thing, not so comfortable on the road with alot of wind noise despite trying different windshields.. so i'll be back home again to the Fury, my all-time most comfortable and favorite bike! Great to be back!

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aces and eights

· #21 · 2 mo ago

If you are up for doing some custom work and want something different but still somewhat stock looking. I found this to have nice airflow yet a very low profile.

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Its made for a sportster and smaller then the stock unit providing additional leg clearance.
Found it on Amazon for about 150.

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #22 · 2 mo ago

5

Did some work over the weekend.. new grips, side-mount plate and de-beaver

For the side-mount plate, i bought this one from Amazon:

www.amazon.com

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and was able to fabricate the 2 brackets into the swingarm bolt perch (top and middle) using Ikea curtain hangers (an old trick i figured out on my last Fury) and mounted the stock plate light onto it.

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #23 · 1 mo ago

3" Fork extenders and Radiator Cover

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Snakenem

· #24 · 1 mo ago

Tknj99 said:
3" Fork extenders and Radiator Cover
View attachment 245951

Nice..
Cant even see the extension line.

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #25 · 1 mo ago

Thanks, the stock signal clamps do a great job of hiding the seams

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Sean Eastham

· #26 · 1 mo ago

I’m looking for a super bright dependable pair of chrome front LED turn signals. Not having a lot of luck though. Any suggestions?

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #27 · 1 mo ago

I've read of others using led strips wrapped around the forks that worked well and were bright.. im also planning to do something with my signals, was thinking the smaller bullet led lights but still in planning

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #28 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

10

Just completed the OEM spring cut work.. i didn't want to lower too much as i usually ride with a passenger so i set my goal at 1 coil.

Some notes on tension:
For removal, you need to tighten the compression to max when removing and re-installing the shock assembly so its as compact as possible. For the cutting process, you need to keep turning the compression knob until its at the lowest setting, this removes almost all of the tension on the spring and then once cut and the piece is removed, you can turn the spring by hand, you cant do that until the coil is removed as there is slight tension

I marked a flat line with blue masking tape at the 1 coil mark at the bottom of the spring and proceeded to cut the straight lines with my angle grinder cut-off wheel. It took several cuts and i soaked the spring in a bucket of water after every 10 seconds worth of cutting to prevent it getting too hot.. I had to make a few horizontal and angular cuts to get the 1 coil out in the end and then spray painted the cut portions. One tip is to turn the knuckle on top of the shock assembly towards you, this will help with removal of the shock assembly as well as install. It took me forever to remove the assembly until i figured on doing this, and it made re-install a cinch...
In the end i went from 7.5" clearance (measuring from rearmost section of the frame) down to 6" so a good 1.5" inch drop which is exactly like the L&M spring and it saved me $265, im happy! Note: my clearance measurements were higher than stock due to having the 3" extenders..

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aces and eights

· #29 · 1 mo ago

I have the strings and love them. Clean look to the front, gives DRLs and turns and the ones I have the DRLs are bright enough I can see my feet at night.

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Down side is the casing does degrade due to the UV

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Furious_Mike

· #30 · 1 mo ago

Tknj99 said:
Just completed the OEM spring cut work.. i didn't want to lower too much as i usually ride with a passenger so i set my goal at 1 coil. I marked ay flat line with blue masking tape at the 1 coil mark and proceeded to cut the straight lines with my angle grinder cut-off wheel. It took several cuts and i soaked the spring in a bucket of water after every 10 seconds worth of cutting to prevent it getting too hot.. I had to make a few horizontal and angular cuts to get the 1 coil out in the end and then spray painted the cut portions. One tip is to turn the knuckle on top of the shock assembly towards you, this will help with removal of the shock assembly as well as install. It took me forever to remove the assembly until i figured on doing this, and it made re-install a cinch...
In the end i went from 7.5" clearance (measuring from rearmost section of the frame) down to 6" so a good 1.5" inch drop which is exactly like the L&M spring and it saved me $265, im happy! Note: my clearance measurements were higher than stock due to having the 3" extenders..

View attachment 246069 View attachment 246070 View attachment 246069 View attachment 246070 View attachment 246071 View attachment 246072 View attachment 246073 View attachment 246074 View attachment 246075 View attachment 246076 View attachment 246077 View attachment 246078

Dude you’re a badass! You didn’t even remove the spring from the shock! 👍 u weren’t worried about the tension on the spring or hitting the shock with the grinder? 😳😂

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #31 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

Furious_Mike said:
Dude you’re a badass! You didn’t even remove the spring from the shock! 👍 u weren’t worried about the tension on the spring or hitting the shock with the grinder? 😳😂

Thanks! Naw, i read of so many people doing it this way, i even read of one person doing while still on the bike, now that is the badass lol... i did slightly nick the shock but nothing that worries me as it was very minimal and not deep, its probably inevitable when done this way.. afterall, removing the shock would have been another job altogether..
With regard to the tension, you need to keep turning the compression knob until its at the lowest setting, this removes almost all of the tension on the spring and then once cut and the piece is removed, you can turn the spring by hand, you cant do that until the coil is removed as there is slight tension.... note: you need to tighten the compression to max when removing and re-installing the shock assembly so its as compact as possible

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #32 · 1 mo ago

Just installed Blade levers and Fi2000r.. unfortunately the brake side lever required slight grinding on the attachment point but nothing that will be visible after it was installed, but kinda annoying to have to do that on something thats supposed to be machined exactly as oem..
With regard to the Fi2000R purchase i bought from Partsgiant and they were the cheapest and shipped overnite which was highly unexpected but a very nice surprise! Now im just waiting on some slip-ons and to figure out what i want to do with the intake, whether it just be K&N replacement or aftermaket/diy options

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aces and eights

· #33 · 1 mo ago

If you have to much play the the levers, press out the brass bushings from the OE levers, drill the mount holes just large enough to be able to press the bushings in. Helped tighten up the levers for me.

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WI_Hedgehog

· #34 · 1 mo ago

Time for an "IT'S FRIDAY!!" thread derail:

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #35 · 1 mo ago

aces and eights said:
If you are up for doing some custom work and want something different but still somewhat stock looking. I found this to have nice airflow yet a very low profile.
View attachment 245878
Its made for a sportster and smaller then the stock unit providing additional leg clearance.
Found it on Amazon for about 150.

Any chance you might have a write-up for this process?

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aces and eights

· #36 · 1 mo ago

@Tknj99
Did a write up in the DIY section under sportster air cleaner mod.

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #37 · 1 mo ago

I'm still debating what to do for intake, wifey likes the stock box and it doesn't look bad.. i do want to increase performance though, from what i've read all of the aftermarket options pretty much flow the same air and everyone says that when you mess with intake you need a fuel controller,.. well i have that covered.. if i were to just retain the stock airbox, is it worth the effort to drill holes in the back of the box and maybe front side (with a mesh screen) to get more air and then i assume i'd need a k&n filter to take advantage of the more air.. but damn, the k&n filter alone is like $75 now

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Furious_Mike

· #38 · 1 mo ago

In either case it’s not going to make a real big difference in power. Go with what you like as both options you stated will have the same effect on the motor

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Tknj99

Discussion Starter · #39 · 1 mo ago

Thanks, do you think drilling the stock airbox + k&n will have much performance gains vs just the k&n alone? It would be great if we had dyno results of stock vs k&n filter vs modified vs other options, but yea one can wish

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Furious_Mike

· #40 · 1 mo ago

If I were doing it, I would drill the box just to get as much air as possible into the intake

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