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Back in Black...

4K views 73 replies 12 participants last post by  Tknj99 
#1 ·
.. i hit the sack, its been so long i'm glad to be back... you get the drift!

Well, after a 3 year hiatus since selling by former Fury, affectionately known as Red Bull, i'm just about back again.. plan to buy this 2012 Fury tomorrow.. my favorite color, 10k miles, presumably showroom condition and a completely stock blank canvas for me to mod again.. luckily i remember some of my old tricks, so will be anxious to share as it progresses.
I'm thinking the name "Blue Ballz" but not sure yet, any suggestions are welcome, my kids make a silly smirk anytime i mention that ;)

Some background that led to today.. after owning Red Bull for 5 years and modding to where i liked her, i started to get bored and wanted to try something new, maybe it was a mid-life crisis, but i got a ZX14R for a short stint and couldn't get her as comfortable as i wanted (that bike was silly fast though omg!)... sold and then bought a CSC RX4 (Chinese ADV) but it was heavy and sluggish on the open road, sold that and bought a Mean Streak, had that for a bit, sold and bought a new M109R for a short while, but again wasn't as comfortable as i had hoped for especially 2-up, sold and bought my current bike a 2009 Raider S, but same thing, not so comfortable on the road with alot of wind noise despite trying different windshields.. so i'll be back home again to the Fury, my all-time most comfortable and favorite bike! Great to be back!

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#5 ·
I tried a few windscreens off Amazon paired with lower wind deflectors and would still have buffeting especially with my wife 2-up. Never had wind issues with the Fury and rode it everywhere long and short rides.. not sure what to tell you. Maybe try a full fairing for more wind protection but then it detracts alot from the looks
 
#7 ·
Don't get me wrong the Raider is a very nice bike, amazing power and nice styling and I also like all of the metal bits and how well she's constructed. But for me, the Fury is the right one.. sometimes it takes a bit of searching to realize that as in my case.. all day comfort is the key, and she will provide that in spades and look amazing doing it..
I plan to do some of the same things as before, 3" fork extenders, backrest, grips.. not sure yet about the exhaust, I'm thinking to keep her stock for awhile, instead of rushing to make louder like the last time.. plus when it was loud I found myself almost never wearing the full helmet due to echoing in the helmet which would become obnoxious after awhile.. and damn did the exhaust prices go up, i remember scoring the Cobra swept new for like $500 or so and now mods like $750 and up
 
#8 ·
Ok, so i drove a good hour + to see the bike and sadly it was a no-go.. it wasn't as well kept as i had hoped for, some rust where scraping took place under the bike, cracked fork dust guards and an electrical issue, one side blinkers were flashing faster than the other side despite both bulbs front/rear working.. i just didnt want to buy and then have to fix issues right away.. so, i found one closer to me on the way back.. this one is a 2017, 6k miles, very well taken care of and comes with very comfy mustang seats and forward controls.. wifey approved.. bought for $6500 which i consider a good deal..

So now its 2 bikes enter, 1 bike must leave...
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#52 ·
Those look like the FC20 Refined cycles forward controls.

I am not a fan of them after a couple years on them...
 
#11 ·
Oh no way, i love these China bikes, am a frequent on Chinariders.net since 2020.. the beige one is a 2020 Bashan Brozz 250 that my teen son rides with me, and the black/orange one is a 2022 Templar X 250.. both bikes were had for $2k delivered, a fraction of the cost of a Big-4 alternative.. plus they are so fun and easy to work on, in fact, i learned the art of adjusting valves on them.. also, replacing brake pads, head porting, steering bearing replacement, you name it.. all parts are a click away on Amazon or Ebay and so cheap.. The Brozz is an old-school CG250 clone and the Templar is CB250 with overhead cam, adjustable shocks and just better suited for dirt.. they do top out at 65mph but for exploring all the dirt and gravel roads near my house they are a blast.. also has been some fun times watching my son learn and progress
 
#13 ·
Glad you like the Chinese bikes. My experience with a Chinese bike is that things break and fall off often. Parts were difficult if not impossible to obtain, service manuals were non existent and although the engine was claimed to be a clone of a Honda engine none of the Honda parts were even close. I had that bike for two years and only did 5000 KLM on it but I spent a lot of time fixing it or waiting for friends to do a trip to China and pick up parts for me while they were there. Sounds like it's a little better now although for such new bikes you seem to be doing a lot of work on them, which is pretty much what I experienced in that something is always breaking or failing.
 
#14 ·
The quality has definitely gotten better, but for sure a long way off of the Japanese bikes. The engines/trannies are usually solid, its the little things that keep you busy, but since the entry point is so low and i enjoy fiddling its a win/win.. here's a fun example.. on my son's bikes, we are riding one day and he pulls over and says its not moving in 1st gear.. im like ugh oh,, i look down at the sprocket and while stationary, clutch out in 1st, the sprocket is spinning, the sprocket bolts had sheared off at 4k miles.. so replaced with oem honda bolts and back in the saddle again lol.. oh i also had my rear wheel fall off on one that i later sold, i was sure to drill all axles and use cotter pins after that.. and threadlock is your best friend
 
#15 ·
That's similar to what I experienced. I had some of the welds fail, both chain guard mounting tabs, the exhaust mounting brackets and the tool box mounts. I had the radiator spring a leak at 2000 KLM which a local radiator guy repaired. The speedo wiring melted, mirrors vibrated off, things like that all the time. Not to forget the screws on the carbies were made of butter and impossible to get out. Anyway you get the idea.
 
#16 ·
They are definitely not for the faint of heart.. on my son's bike it failed inspection due to steering being tighter than normal.. local Honda dealer said they wouldnt work on it naturally but gave me suggestions, it had been my first time working on steering but a little research, a $5 bag of ball bearings and some grease, and the patience to place each bearing into the grease on each cup and voila, its like new again..
 
#17 · (Edited)
So for the new bike, my current plans include some things i've already done before, so its kinda fun to search on how-to and see my own posts with pics from 7 years ago lol

immediate future:
  • oil change: Rotella T6 / HF-303RC
  • differential fluid 80w90 Valvoline
  • swingarm bag
  • tool bag
  • blade grips
  • inspection tag bracket
  • license plate relocator
  • slipstreamer spitfire windshield
  • paint stock mirrors black

next phase:
  • 3" fork extenders
  • led front/rear signals (pending research)
  • backrest that works with a mustang passenger seat (pending research)
  • lowering spring or cutting (tbd)
  • exhaust? i do like that the stock exhaust is on the quiet side, i dont know, i also like the look of swept pipes but damn they r so expensive now.. maybe drill back plate 1/4'? i did the full boring of the stock exhaust in the past and wasnt happy with the sound, but maybe less if more with that?
  • intake: black spike perhaps
  • fuel controller or tune
 
#18 ·
First and second mods.. check

Drilled the stock exhaust with 1/4 bit to expand the 2 holes in the end plate.. I am happy with the increase in tone, nice and throaty.. I think the key here is moderation, going all the way like I did in the past and boring out completely makes it sound like a motor boat, this time i have learned the art of moderation, and if I need more it will have to come from the aftermarket
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I also sprayed the chrome mirrors to black, I think it looks much better.. with my last bike I had sprayed with plasti-dip as I wanted to be able to revert back if it didn't look good and man was that a much longer process.. with Krylon 5-in-1 matte paint it was a sinch..wound up with 3 coats
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#35 ·
If you are up for doing some custom work and want something different but still somewhat stock looking. I found this to have nice airflow yet a very low profile.
View attachment 245878
Its made for a sportster and smaller then the stock unit providing additional leg clearance.
Found it on Amazon for about 150.
Any chance you might have a write-up for this process?
 
#22 ·
Did some work over the weekend.. new grips, side-mount plate and de-beaver

For the side-mount plate, i bought this one from Amazon:

and was able to fabricate the 2 brackets into the swingarm bolt perch (top and middle) using Ikea curtain hangers (an old trick i figured out on my last Fury) and mounted the stock plate light onto it.

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#28 · (Edited)
Just completed the OEM spring cut work.. i didn't want to lower too much as i usually ride with a passenger so i set my goal at 1 coil.

Some notes on tension:
For removal, you need to tighten the compression to max when removing and re-installing the shock assembly so its as compact as possible. For the cutting process, you need to keep turning the compression knob until its at the lowest setting, this removes almost all of the tension on the spring and then once cut and the piece is removed, you can turn the spring by hand, you cant do that until the coil is removed as there is slight tension

I marked a flat line with blue masking tape at the 1 coil mark at the bottom of the spring and proceeded to cut the straight lines with my angle grinder cut-off wheel. It took several cuts and i soaked the spring in a bucket of water after every 10 seconds worth of cutting to prevent it getting too hot.. I had to make a few horizontal and angular cuts to get the 1 coil out in the end and then spray painted the cut portions. One tip is to turn the knuckle on top of the shock assembly towards you, this will help with removal of the shock assembly as well as install. It took me forever to remove the assembly until i figured on doing this, and it made re-install a cinch...
In the end i went from 7.5" clearance (measuring from rearmost section of the frame) down to 6" so a good 1.5" inch drop which is exactly like the L&M spring and it saved me $265, im happy! Note: my clearance measurements were higher than stock due to having the 3" extenders..

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#30 ·
Just completed the OEM spring cut work.. i didn't want to lower too much as i usually ride with a passenger so i set my goal at 1 coil. I marked ay flat line with blue masking tape at the 1 coil mark and proceeded to cut the straight lines with my angle grinder cut-off wheel. It took several cuts and i soaked the spring in a bucket of water after every 10 seconds worth of cutting to prevent it getting too hot.. I had to make a few horizontal and angular cuts to get the 1 coil out in the end and then spray painted the cut portions. One tip is to turn the knuckle on top of the shock assembly towards you, this will help with removal of the shock assembly as well as install. It took me forever to remove the assembly until i figured on doing this, and it made re-install a cinch...
In the end i went from 7.5" clearance (measuring from rearmost section of the frame) down to 6" so a good 1.5" inch drop which is exactly like the L&M spring and it saved me $265, im happy! Note: my clearance measurements were higher than stock due to having the 3" extenders..

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Dude you’re a badass! You didn’t even remove the spring from the shock! 👍 u weren’t worried about the tension on the spring or hitting the shock with the grinder? 😳😂
 
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