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Over 2 years and mine is still going strong. Now it may go out tomorrow, but so far so good.......
Mine is no longer going strong. Died yesterday with no warning. Replaced with a Batteries Plus battery. Not my first choice, but when you need one quickly, you go where they have one in stock..........
 

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a very good prep and charged battery should last 7 yrs or more. if your battery is dying its from lack of charge, once a battery falls below 10volts its done for, a very good battery fully charged and left sitting for 24 hrs should read 13.5 volts. now I have a 99 yamaha road star 1600 as my long haul touring bike and it has the factory battery in it still, why and how, simple a battery tender to keep it fully charged at all times, plus i preped the battery my self. most dealers dont prep the battery correctly the just throw them in and ship it out the door. a battery should have its acid dropped, then let to sit for 1hr before charging, then once charged at .25 - .5 amps for 12 hrs, let sit for 24hrs before a load is put on to it. this is so the battery keeps its charge memory. if you put a load on it when its thrown together fast it shortens the life by 50%
 

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SURE sounds like hydrostatic lock to me..................
Sounds like starter-drag to me. 'Bout time we started seeing some starters going out (they don't last forever!). Some guys use the hell out of their starters, sometimes 15 or 20 times a day. Everyone needs to understand; every time you use your starter is just one time less that it's going to work: think about it!

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Sounds like starter-drag to me. 'Bout time we started seeing some starters going out (they don't last forever!). Some guys use the hell out of their starters, sometimes 15 or 20 times a day. Everyone needs to understand; every time you use your starter is just one time less that it's going to work: think about it!

Cheers
Starter drag is starter drag. By that I mean once you have a starter going bad it does not straighten up and work correctly every second time you use it. I still suspect the bad fuel pump issue is affecting some people in a way that might not have been considered.

If your fuel pump is opposite of what happened to mine and running to high a pressure when you shut it off it would flood the engine with gas. (or weak injector) Gas is not compressible so first time you try to start it it turns over very slowly or more often you have to hit button several times...then all the sudden it spins like normal. Just had this very same thing happen to my SS 427 that had one Holley carb needle and seat bad. Broke the starter case....lol.

Proof here is easy, shut it off and restart. Do this many times, if a bad starter this would NOT work as bad starter gets worse every time it is used and especially when hot. If it only does this after hot and sitting and then works great after bike finally spins over I would almost guarantee hydrostatic lock.

By the way, watch Sprint Cars or Super Mods at the circle track when they start them. They always put them in gear and push backwards first to clear any fuel leaked down by injectors. This is not a new issue with FI.
 

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I thought you're supposed to let a battery drain completely every 6 months and then recharge it.
Once an acid cell battery drains completly and sits for any time its hurt and maybe done for.

Wanna do a poor mans battery test? You don't have to have the battery tester. Hook up a volt meter to your bike. Run starter while watching volt meter. If voltage drops more than 3 volts from start of test to voltage while cranking it is bad. Unless you try this with starter locked up via hydrostatic lock. :)
 

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Starter drag is starter drag. By that I mean once you have a starter going bad it does not straighten up and work correctly every second time you use it. I still suspect the bad fuel pump issue is affecting some people in a way that might not have been considered.

If your fuel pump is opposite of what happened to mine and running to high a pressure when you shut it off it would flood the engine with gas. (or weak injector) Gas is not compressible so first time you try to start it it turns over very slowly or more often you have to hit button several times...then all the sudden it spins like normal. Just had this very same thing happen to my SS 427 that had one Holley carb needle and seat bad. Broke the starter case....lol.

Proof here is easy, shut it off and restart. Do this many times, if a bad starter this would NOT work as bad starter gets worse every time it is used and especially when hot. If it only does this after hot and sitting and then works great after bike finally spins over I would almost guarantee hydrostatic lock.

By the way, watch Sprint Cars or Super Mods at the circle track when they start them. They always put them in gear and push backwards first to clear any fuel leaked down by injectors. This is not a new issue with FI.
This is making quite a bit of sense. I thought for sure my battery was going bad, but I checked it and it's fully charged, so I think the battery must be ok, because most of the time, the bike fires right up. Only once in a while does it struggle to start.

Also, I have had experience with starters going bad on both cars and bikes, and it's pretty much like you said. It just gets progressively worse. It doesn't work most of the time and then act up once in a while.

My bike struggles to start mostly at fuel stops even in this cooler weather, but if it sits long enough, it starts with no problems. This convinces me that it may be this hydrostatic lock that you're talking about, because if the bike sits for just a little while, then the pressure is there making it hard to start. However, if it sits a lot longer, then maybe the pressure has time to bleed off and it starts easier.

I'm just guessing, but it sure sounds like what my bike is experiencing. No big deal really, because it does always start after no more than 2-3 button pushes and runs great. I'm actually relieved to hear this because I didn't want to have to buy another battery yet. :)
 

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This is making quite a bit of sense. I thought for sure my battery was going bad, but I checked it and it's fully charged, so I think the battery must be ok, because most of the time, the bike fires right up. Only once in a while does it struggle to start.

Also, I have had experience with starters going bad on both cars and bikes, and it's pretty much like you said. It just gets progressively worse. It doesn't work most of the time and then act up once in a while.

My bike struggles to start mostly at fuel stops even in this cooler weather, but if it sits long enough, it starts with no problems. This convinces me that it may be this hydrostatic lock that you're talking about, because if the bike sits for just a little while, then the pressure is there making it hard to start. However, if it sits a lot longer, then maybe the pressure has time to bleed off and it starts easier.

I'm just guessing, but it sure sounds like what my bike is experiencing. No big deal really, because it does always start after no more than 2-3 button pushes and runs great. I'm actually relieved to hear this because I didn't want to have to buy another battery yet. :)

Now the question is, one fuel injector or both bleeding? OR, could it be the pressure regulator? Is the regulator in the pump? If so that might make sense as we know we have had more than a few issues with fuel pumps.

If you can duplicate the no start issue I would do that and put bike in high gear and push it backwards till the engine turns over backwards once. We used to clear super mods that way. Then if it starts first hit you have an answer to at least what is happening if not why.

Can both the weak fuel pump issues and this high fuel pressure issue be related? Could Honda have seen this bleed down and set pumps to lower pressure to fix it? I have no idea just wondering....
 

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If you can duplicate the no start issue I would do that and put bike in high gear and push it backwards till the engine turns over backwards once. We used to clear super mods that way. Then if it starts first hit you have an answer to at least what is happening if not why.
This is what I planned on doing. The only problem is, it usually fires up with a second push of the button, so if I push it backwards to clear the lock, it's going to start either way.

I would say that it has problems starting, maybe 30-40 percent of the time at fuel stops, so I'll just have to turn the engine backwards every time I'm at a gas station before I attempt to start it and if I never have the problem again, then I guess we have the answer. I would say 3-5 fuel stops should be sufficient.
 

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My first battery (OE Yuasa) lasted 3.75 years. I seldom charge it and have never really experienced the hot start issue. The bike gets ridden frequently Mar - Oct and at least monthly all year. This winter it started getting grumpy. Pulled the battery out today after a short ride yesterday where I thought the bike might strand me if I shut it off again. I figured it needed a charge after infrequent use the last few months. But the charger said it was fully charged already! Multimeter said 12.8V. Called my dealer to see if they could load test it. Yes. Here's the report (not very detailed):
Sleeve Receipt Font Material property Electric blue

Decided to go with the $$ Yuasa direct replacement this time. Might try another source next time. Not eager to switch to lithium just yet.

Just adding a data point to this helpful thread.
 
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