[mbaskett]

Me too, since the tank is out for paint… I just got a big box from Amazon filled with oil, filter, diff oil, battery, and a charging cable for the phone that I can now run easily under the tank to the bars

Love this site...

Sick of the stealership but need a filter

Hello all, well I have finally decided to boycott the local Honda stealer... after spending thousands of dollars and sending lots of business to them... they refused to give me any sort of deal when it came to buying my fury, so much that I bought my bike in Boston and had it shipped to...

www.furyforums.com

don't forget the gasket/o-ring for the rear diff oil change..

Final drive drain
GASKET (8MM)
90471-580-000

Final drive fill
O-RING (30.8MM)
91302-001-020

Honda Fury Shaft Drive Fluid Change

First time posting in this forum, and I saw the sub-forum rules saying no shadetree mechanics, but, here it is, I'm going to shoot my shot. I made a 4 minute video and created a 1000+ word walkthrough showing people how to change the final drive fluid (shaft drive fluid) on the Fury. It's a...

www.furyforums.com

 

[mbaskett]

So, the wife and I had a few post-massage brunch 'Rita's and then it was time to change plugs... Pulled the rears. Not disappointed with how they look..

Just a Hillary-hair over 10k miles, and just like @WI_Hedgehog predicted, still nearly brand new...

Always cherish input, but my eval is good burn, slight but not prevelant whitening means good A/F ratio a H-hair on the lean side but not dangerously so... No signs of detonation or erosion of the plug tip... The shiny on the left plug (left side of head) may be a tiny bit of oil seapage from valve guides, but again, nothing I am worried about..

I may clean these up and put em back in the drawer for future use!

(FYI, for those that are visually saavy and caught it, the brand new plug on the left has a bad ceramic isolator, which I caught after taking the pic but prior to installation.. the thing slides on the electrode like Kamala in San Francisco when cocaine is involved.. you can see in the pic that it's slightly 'above' the electrode) Shame on me for buying online where you can't QA check what should have already been QA checked. Something to be said for brick'n'mortar business. Returning it costs me $3.71 + $4.99 restocking fee to a seller on Amazon called 'newlifesupply00', probably Chinese, definitely sheisty, and will be the recipient of a 1 star review... aside from the negative review, probably not worth it in the long-run..

 

[Furious_Mike]

U ain’t kidding for all those miles they look great!

 

[macxpert]

Be interesting to see if the front ones are different. I have a feeling they may be.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I should have asked how many miles you have on your oil, because it's also looking like 10,495.

The plugs should look just a tad rich in most cases, if not something is sadly amiss. Those look unhappily wet--it's not a Harley. Does your oil smell like it has gas in it?

As an aside, Honda doesn't sell a replacement motor, one has to buy a new bike. So if one buys knockoff sparkplugs and a plug uses its ceramic insulator as IED shrapnel it's gonna get spendy real quick.

My thought is that exotic plugs are meant for engines where the plugs are hard to get to when changing them, as in "you have to pull the engine." That's not the case with the Fury, so I personally use the NGKs Honda spec'd out. (Yeah, I have a precision gapping tool and clock the plugs and all that happy stuff, I'm not a mud mechanic.)

 

[mbaskett]

My oil is better than yours!!! all 10k+ factory original miles of it j/k I may be remiss in some of my other maintenance like cleaning air filter, checking/changing plugs, flushing brake fluid, flushing coolant, but I religiously change the oil every year, so I can say that it's not a matter of gas making that one plug wet, as the oil never smells of gas when I change it. I am 98% certain that it's a bit of oil seepage through the valve guides or pulled in via the PCV. Only the left side plug that looks shiny in the pic was wet, and when I wiped it, definitely oil. Also was only wet on the threads that are exposed to the combustion chamber. I'm guessing it's because the bike has sat for a bit in the garage without being started/run in weeks, so it's had a chance to slowly find it's way down the head and since that plug sits almost vertical in the head, the drip formed on the hanging tip (if this happens in other places in life, see a doctor ASAP).

I'm not terribly concerned at this point, but I will be stuffing my borescope in there for a quick look-around.

Gotta remember this isn't a factory 'stock' running 1300, and certain aspects that impact overall combustion may have 'wandered' from their original 'locations'

These replacement plugs are NGK's, but obviously the iridium tipped version (DCPR6EIX). I chose these over the non-iridium mostly because of my own admission of not changing them more regularly. The one with the potential IED factor was probably just bad from the factory or may have been a return that got resold (shrug). Either way, I always check my plugs for any loose parts before installing as I know all to well what a failed plug will do to the piston, block and head if parts of it decide to 'go on a walkabout' I still haven't decided if I'm going to bother trying to return it and get a fraction of my money back, but I do have a replacement en-route as well as the other pair for the front jug.

I am also curious to what the front jug plugs look like. Will post those up when I swap em out later this week...

 

[phlaug]

I do not recall having replaced the plugs as of yet... 2010 with 25,000+ miles... maybe I'll make a note for 2025. LOL

 

[Furious_Mike]

When I did mine last year, they looked as if they’d been in there since 2011 and bike ran fine. I’m leaving them in this year anticipating they’ll perform as the previous plugs did and I used the OEM NGKs which is what I took out.

 

[todds87ss]

A strange thought...I wonder what would happen if you used one "6" and one "7" heat range in each cylinder...

 

[mbaskett]

The 7 would likely add more carbon buildup.. IIRC, it's a cooler heat range than the 6. I'd only use it if I were running a power adder, or running a high compression setup.

 

[todds87ss]

It is called for " extended driving" in the manual.
If the 2 plugs of slightly different heat range are in the same cylinder, how would firing and carbon be different?

Might be worth the experiment.

 

[todds87ss]

Took these out today. IMO they look like proper 10k mile plugs, although the bike starts faster and idles down much better than it did yesterday

 

[Furious_Mike]

Looks like normal wear and tear

 

[mbaskett]

Here's the front plugs...

 

[macxpert]

Here's the front plugs... View attachment 245421 View attachment 245422

Not what I was expecting. I was expecting the front ones to be a lot lighter.

 

[todds87ss]

IIRC my front left was the only dark one.

 

[mbaskett]

Not what I was expecting. I was expecting the front ones to be a lot lighter.

2 words for ya about why they likely are not what you expected...

Don Guhl

 

[mbaskett]

IIRC my front left was the only dark one.

I noticed that too with your pic. You think that plug is running a little colder? Maybe not getting full combustion on that side of the chamber perhaps? I thought it was a bit strange. Maybe that plug is older than the others??

I also thought your plugs looked on the lean side with the entire ground electrode whiteish/gray, and is that a bit of yellowing on one?

I won't profess to be an expert on how these plugs should look after running in the 1300, since this is the second time I've laid eyes on mine in 11 years, the first time being in the first 500 miles of the bike's life...

 

[todds87ss]

Insulators were all tan except for the front left. Not sure if this has anything to do with pcv location. I can't imagine part of a cylinder having different combustion than the rest of the same cylinder.
I could not say if one is older...this was my first plug change on this bike.

 

[phlaug]

First plug change, at 25,000 miles.