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Discussion Starter #1
I'm working on finishing up my new custom forwards I'm building and the only thing left is the mounting plates. I've toyed with a few different designs but this is my favorite. Here are some cardboard mockups before I put plasma to steel to see what you guys think.

FYI, I've got a buddy who works at a C&C shop and he is making me the extender stems to mount the pegs to (represented by toilet paper rolls here :) ) They will be round as this is the only cost effective way to make them; 32mm steel rod on the lathe. For them to be square like the plates, they would need to be cut from 32mm thick steel and would cost roughly $220 a piece for materials... so round it is!

My Kury pegs will mount to the end of the stems. The total difference for this setup is 4.15" forward and 1.9 inches up. Due to the large difference, part of the design is necessary for clearnece for the stock shifter arm so I cannot change that piece of the design.

All comments welcome. Thanks for your feedback guys.



 

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Looks good so far. I would check on an aftermarket master Cyl like the other aftermarket forwards run. You can pick some of them up for like 20 bucks then another 40 for the line and pressure switch, but it will avoid having to mod the stock brake lever and clean up the hole behind where the oem peg covers.

Dont know if you did a make shift Jig to keep everything square or measured each part individually, my only advice is to keep everything square. The way i made my adapter brackets was relatively quick to check the measurements by propping bike vertical then using a plumb bob to mark referance points(from oem pegs) and height then measure for push and make change in height on the plumb bob line and it was just placing a mark on the bracket.
 

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... The way i made my adapter brackets was relatively quick to check the measurements by propping bike vertical then using a plumb bob to mark referance points(from oem pegs) and height then measure for push and make change in height on the plumb bob line and it was just placing a mark on the bracket.
i was wondering how your extendeds came outl; must have missed a thread somewhere.
 

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I like the design and the look Clintster! Keep us updated with your progress. Nice job!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would check on an aftermarket master Cyl like the other aftermarket forwards run. You can pick some of them up for like 20 bucks then another 40 for the line and pressure switch, but it will avoid having to mod the stock brake lever and clean up the hole behind where the oem peg covers.
I can't stand the look of the aftermarket master cylinder hanging off the front of the pegs, that's why I'm building my own forwards. I already modified the brake lever to stretch the peg up and forward my cutting the lever off the mounting ring and adding in about 2.5" of 8mm steel and rewelding. It moved the peg up just under 2" and forward 1" into a comfortable toe position. I also made a cap for the brake lever that covers the c-clamp that threads into a hole I drilled into the center of the shaft that the brake lever mounts on.

Everything is going to be powder coated semi-black so it'll blend into the frame and also hide most imperfections.

What do you mean by keeping everything "square"?
 

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i was wondering how your extendeds came outl; must have missed a thread somewhere.
They arnt extension plates, its just an adapter plate to bolt a HD forward on. They came out great, I had issues ordering a brake line because the company i was dealing with was too dumb to realise im calling and ordering a line with a fitting for a metric and a fitting for a harley for a reason, but after i told them to just cancel and ran to a hydraulic supply shop they made lines on the spot and it was fixed.
 

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I was refering to keeping both sides consistant for movement of the pegs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was refering to keeping both sides consistant for movement of the pegs.
My plates are identical geometrically with the exception of the mount for the gear shift pedal. I did struggle a little with getting the brake pedal in the right place, square with the shifter pedal. The shifter pedal is stock and is the perfect placement but the brake pedal was extended so getting it in the right place took some measuring... and re-measuring... and re-measuring but they are right on now.

Thanks for the help man, I never saw pics of your HD conversion mounts either, do you have any pics?
 

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Thanks for the help man, I never saw pics of your HD conversion mounts either, do you have any pics?
I had pics up when i made them from the test fit. I think I put a set up after i had the brake line hooked up, but may have forgot since i was having a nightmare of a time getting the brake line made. It was pretty much 1/4" steel drilled to the HD bolt pattern and the honda bolt pattern then cut with about 1/4" radius around the outer bolt holes.

With your setup I have been thinking and you could try a rear mount master like the sportsters ran to clear up some of the clutter from the OEM brakes. Using the OEM controls the plate covers that a bit but I find it kinda cluttered looking when its opened up from the push forward.
 

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The machine shop I have been using is jacking me around and I'm done working with them. I put out some RFQs on some machine/fab sites but I thought I would post it up here too.

You would need a cutter (plasma, laser, or waterjet) and a lathe to do the parts. A mini-manual would work just fine as they are pretty simple.

If you have these machining capabilities or know someone who does let me know and I will send you the specs so you can review and quote me.

Just reply with your email or any questions.

Thanks fellas.
 

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The machine shop I have been using is jacking me around and I'm done working with them. I put out some RFQs on some machine/fab sites but I thought I would post it up here too.

You would need a cutter (plasma, laser, or waterjet) and a lathe to do the parts. A mini-manual would work just fine as they are pretty simple.

If you have these machining capabilities or know someone who does let me know and I will send you the specs so you can review and quote me.

Just reply with your email or any questions.

Thanks fellas.
What are the machine shops charging for something like that?
 

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What are the machine shops charging for something like that?
I had quotes anywhere from about $150 for all parts to $625 from one shop. It all depends on how busy they are. If they don't need the work, they'll quote it that way. In all honesty, its about $50 in materials at the max for the plate steel and round bar and the pieces are very simple manual cut parts. The guy quoting $625 is quoting the CAD deisng work and having the parts cnc machined which is totally unnecessary for these.

This is what happened to the guy I was working with. They were supposed to be ready like 3 weeks ago and he keeps putting me off.
 

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I had quotes anywhere from about $150 for all parts to $625 from one shop. It all depends on how busy they are. If they don't need the work, they'll quote it that way. In all honesty, its about $50 in materials at the max for the plate steel and round bar and the pieces are very simple manual cut parts. The guy quoting $625 is quoting the CAD deisng work and having the parts cnc machined which is totally unnecessary for these.

This is what happened to the guy I was working with. They were supposed to be ready like 3 weeks ago and he keeps putting me off.
I'll make your parts for you if you would like.
 

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I'll make your parts for you if you would like.
I'll elaborate. I am a CNC Programmer/Machinist. I come on here every once in awhile to check out the mods for the fury. Don't really participate much. But thats my prerogative. I actually did make a couple front fork clamps for a couple of members awhile back. You could look up the threads. Well if your interested let me know.
 
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