Honda Fury Forums: banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
At 644 miles, it was time to give the Fury its first valve adjustment. This first adjustment took me about 4 hours start to finish, but that includes having to spend a lot of time:
- Going to the auto store to get some feeler gauges when I couldn't find mine.
- Endless crawling in a circle around the bike because I needed a tool that I
left on the other side.
- The head scratching time spent thinking: 'what in the world do I do now' ?

Next time I should be able to do the adjustment in well under an hour start to finish :)

First thing is to let the bike cool overnight, the clearance readings are only valid on a stone cold engine (any mechanic that has the bike back to you in a few hours either: 1. didn't let the engine cool, or 2. hosed the engine down with water to try and cool it. To do the job right, I recommend doing neither of these. Let the engine cool completely).

1. Remove the air cleaner cover and air filter (I wanted more room to get to the rear intake valves).

2. Unbolt the air cleaner housing, single 10mm bolt at the bottom.

3. Loosen the band that cinches the rubber boot to the Fuel Injection. You'll
just be able to get a long screw driver in there. When you reassemble this, be careful that the notches in the band match up so that the screw will remain in this, the only accessible, position. Pull off the air cleaner housing. Pull off the secondary air supply hose from the air cleaner housing (this is the big hose). The air cleaner is now out of the way.

4. You can see that the rear intake valve cover is pretty obscured by the PAIR solenoid and it's hoses. I deemed it a losing battle to see if I could get in there without removing the tank. Thanks to OJGP for the tip about unbolting the tank, leaving hoses and connectors attached and rotating it counter clockwise 90 degrees to get it out of the way. I laid the front of the tank carefully on a step ladder protected with a towel, and the back of the tank on the frame rails also protected by a towel. This is a painless way to get the tank out of the way (no disconnecting of fuel lines !). I disconnected the PAIR hose that connects to the rear exhaust port.

5. To free up the PAIR solenoid, remove the retaining screw, looking down on top of the frame.

PART 2 coming up.
 

Attachments

1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top