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Discussion Starter #1
Well, all of you have suggested a DIY for things and I am willing to oblige. I have been SWAMPED with questions about painting parts on the Fury from this forum and I can’t seem to type fast enough!

RedSpawnSilver sent me a rear fender to change color to his silver so I am using that for a step by step guide to help anyone wanting to try to paint or refinish part or all of their bike.

One request. I am posting several pictures so please don’t respond until I have completed this thread. Hope you like it.

Painter
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Pic #1 …
The first thing you want to do is clean with an automotive wax and grease remover. Rub with a rag and dry immediately with a clean one. This removes wax or grease that you could sand into the fender by mistake.

Pic #2 …
Red filled a hole he wanted to remove with “kitty hair” reinforced filler. He beveled the edges to make a ‘plug’ and then put tape over the top and filled in from the bottom leaving a little on the underside of the fender. Since fiberglass resin contains oil, sand the "kitty hair' and clean this spot with acetone. This is the one step putty to fill in the remainder of the hole and scratches.

Pic #3 …
In two quarts of water put several drops of ‘Dawn’ detergent and mix. When you wet sand you will need the soap to keep the paper from ‘loading’. Here I am wet sanding with 300 grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper. Don’t use regular paper. The block is to sand flat.

Pic #4.…
Sanding almost done. See what is left?

Pic #5...
When dry, if you see shiny places, you need to sand them out. Don’t worry if you go through the paint--just get it flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pic #1...
After your satisfied, I use windex to clean off soap residue. Soap contains oil and needs removed. This fender is ready for priming.

Pic #2 …
I used a light stand and removed the lights for this fender stand. I build all of my own stands. You don’t want part to move when sprayed.

Pic #3...
Fender on the stand in the booth ready for paint.

Pic #4...
I use an epoxy primer. I is great because you can wet sand it when cured. On cycle parts, the finish is critical compared to most auto painting.

Pic. #5...
Because this is a DIY, I went to Lowes and purchased a $39.00 touch-up gun. I will be using this gun during the whole process. Be sure to CLEAN the gun after each use with lacquer thinner and know the gun very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pic #1
This is the minimum temp and humidity I spray primer. This instrument can be purchased for about 10 bucks at Walmart. Works great.

Pic #2
At 55 PSI at the gun, turn your fan up all the way and your material knob all the way in. While backing out the material knob spray until you get a light cover. I put a piece of masking paper taped to the wall to do this. Then I spray a light coat just over areas of filler or areas paint was sanded off.

Pic #3...
Then I adjust gun material knob up a bit and spray two wet coats of primer. WET DOESN’T MEAN RUNNY! This gives good coverage, and if not you can spray another coat. I used about 6 oz of primer.

Pic #4...
After 12 hours, you are back wet sanding. This time with 600 grit. Remember to sand until there are no shiny spots.

Pic #5...
Here fender is sanded, cleaned and ready for color. Most all automotive paints and primers do not need additives for flex and can be used on your plastic parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Pic #1.…
Here is what I keep the booth set. Usually between 70-75 degrees and under 45 RH.

Pic #2...
Mix paint per instructions and spray 2-3 wet coats overlapping the pattern by 50%. Wait 15 to 20 minutes on average before each coat. Set gun at 45 PSI. Base color is pretty easy to spray, but you want uniform coverage. Be sure to get the edges. How much paint for the fender: I mixed 1/2 pint and have enough to do about 4 more.

Pic #3...
Wait 1 hour…..Then your ready for clear coat. Here is what I use.

Pic #4...
Clear coat: Set gun at 50PSI. First coat should cover but be very, very light. Called a ‘tack’ coat. Let set for at least 15 min @ 70 degrees. 2nd, 3rd coats should be wet coats with ‘flash’ time between coats. Touch an inconspicuous spot and should be tacky--not stringy. Be careful of runs. Smooth strokes with 50% pattern overlap.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The following steps can be used to take out scuffs and scratches on your OEM paint. Most can be taken out without a complete refinish and look like new again.

Pic ##1...
Wait 24-48 hours. Then (guess what-- we have to sand again. This time wet sand with 1500 or 2000 grit paper. ONLY SAND THE LARGER AREAS. Don’t sand nooks and crannys you can’t get a buffer in. I sand with a folded piece by hand with no block. Again, when you are finished, you will have no shiny spots. Be careful not to sand through into your color and ruin what you have done.

………………….

Pic #2.…
Now, the most important tool I own. It’s a cheaper air buffer with a 3” Velcro type attachment. You can buff by hand but it takes a lot of time and effort. I use a foam pad---never wool. Wool will burn into your work! The cotton pad is used to put on the compound. Slightly dampen the foam pad and buff with finishing compound.

Pic #3...
FINISHED! After buffing about 20 min. this is what I get. Looks as good (if not better) than factory. Don’t wax for 60 days. Never use a silicone based wax on anything!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well, I hope this helps. There is a web site on TCP Global that carries HOK paints and HOK has a tech section that is great! What works with their product generally works with others. On this site you can also purchase stuff if you want to completely refinish and do a professional job.

I don’t know a whole lot about most of the technical aspects here on the Forum, but do know a little about paint. This is my contribution.

Now if James will give me his address........:eek:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/HokPaint/
 

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Well, I hope this helps. There is a web site on TCP Global that carries HOK paints and HOK has a tech section that is great! What works with their product generally works with others. On this site you can also purchase stuff if you want to completely refinish and do a professional job.

I don’t know a whole lot about most of the technical aspects here on the Forum, but do know a little about paint. This is my contribution.

Now if James will give me his address........:eek:
Lol, okay... I'll send you my address, thanks a lot for the DIY/How too, I know we all enjoy them and thanks for helping me out in the process! Good job btw on the DIY. BTW, that looks freagin awsome!!!!!!

Oh, and we have 1 less blue fender in the world... happy dayz are upon us, happy dayz!
 

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That fender looked awful familiar. I guess if you want to wear a skirt while you ride, the silver does look good.

Painter, words cannot describe how awesome that is. Great Job.
 

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Well, I hope this helps. There is a web site on TCP Global that carries HOK paints and HOK has a tech section that is great! What works with their product generally works with others. On this site you can also purchase stuff if you want to completely refinish and do a professional job.

I don’t know a whole lot about most of the technical aspects here on the Forum, but do know a little about paint. This is my contribution.

Now if James will give me his address........:eek:

HOK Paint - Buy Warehouse Direct at Wholesale Pricing
This is the best post I have ever read on any forum I have been on. Thanks for the info, I am going to try it, on some old parts of course.
 

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Okay, here is the fender part that I delt with on the project. It had to do with sanding down the hole and prepping it for the kitty hair.

I used a 300 grit sandpaper block on the top side, where the blue paint was at, and 100 grit on the bottom side of the fender, to remove the grease, oil and dirt that may have collected there.

After that, I continued to sand away till there was a nice ring of paint gone from the top side of the fender. Unfortunately, I do not have pics of when I put the "kitty hair" on the fender as it was a fast process, the kitty hair only took about 5 minutes to dry after I had mixed it with the compound that came with it.

After filling the hole with some blue painters tape, I then proceeded to smear the "kitty hair" on the bottom side of the fender, like Painter said in his DIY above. After about 10 minutes, took off the tape then sanded down the kitty hair a little further until it was fairly smooth.

So, here are the two pics of the paint removed.







 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks to Red for those additional pics. Now that we're done it's time for a cold Coors Light! :rolleyes:
 

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BTW, good job Painter on the color match!!! Brought my girlfriend out to see what she thought of it... she was like... okay, which fender is it (when the fender was already on the bike), so... that is exactly the reaction that I was looking for!

Cheers mate!

Coors light aye... yarrrr...

Here are some new pics, got the fender back!!!

Stock fender, getting battered and bruised, too many holes!!!!... :(



New fender, looking good



Left side


Full on ass shot!!!



Looking pretty

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sweet, Red. Glad to help. Getting very busy in my shop and working on my own custom paint in my spare time. Hope to have it completed by May. I'll post some work on a Harley later next week for your comments. The Vets should really like the Harley as I repainted the 'Reflections' of the Wall.
 

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Painter, Very nice detailed and informational post. Very helpful to those who would want to try something like this as a do it yourself project.Your step by step process is not only very helpful but it really gives appreciation to the involved process for those who thinks it just magically happens when they drop a part off to be painted and then question the cost. Thank you for the post. I reaaly enjoyed the read. Nice job!
 

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Very good write up Paint, but what if I said I wanted to keep my factory color since I just think the red is 'HOT', I'm pretty savy with thy airbrush and would love to dress up the fenders with something I was kicking about....

Am I just wet sanding the clear off to get my scuff for the graphix, or am i just painting over the top coat then re-apply a clear over the graphix...
 

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Another way to hide those ugly holes...

I guess I'm the only one with a hot 5'5" blued eyed blonde to ride on the back of my Fury to hide those ugly holes... course i guess in the long run its cheaper to fill em' and paint em'!!!... but you guys didn't hear that from me!!! No Sir!!!:D
 
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