"DIY" How to Paint

Pic #1 …
The first thing you want to do is clean with an automotive wax and grease remover. Rub with a rag and dry immediately with a clean one. This removes wax or grease that you could sand into the fender by mistake.

Pic #2 …
Red filled a hole he wanted to remove with “kitty hair” reinforced filler. He beveled the edges to make a ‘plug’ and then put tape over the top and filled in from the bottom leaving a little on the underside of the fender. Since fiberglass resin contains oil, sand the "kitty hair' and clean this spot with acetone. This is the one step putty to fill in the remainder of the hole and scratches.

Pic #3 …
In two quarts of water put several drops of ‘Dawn’ detergent and mix. When you wet sand you will need the soap to keep the paper from ‘loading’. Here I am wet sanding with 300 grit automotive wet/dry sandpaper. Don’t use regular paper. The block is to sand flat.

Pic #4.…
Sanding almost done. See what is left?

Pic #5...
When dry, if you see shiny places, you need to sand them out. Don’t worry if you go through the paint--just get it flat.

Pic #1...
After your satisfied, I use windex to clean off soap residue. Soap contains oil and needs removed. This fender is ready for priming.

Pic #2 …
I used a light stand and removed the lights for this fender stand. I build all of my own stands. You don’t want part to move when sprayed.

Pic #3...
Fender on the stand in the booth ready for paint.

Pic #4...
I use an epoxy primer. I is great because you can wet sand it when cured. On cycle parts, the finish is critical compared to most auto painting.

Pic. #5...
Because this is a DIY, I went to Lowes and purchased a $39.00 touch-up gun. I will be using this gun during the whole process. Be sure to CLEAN the gun after each use with lacquer thinner and know the gun very well.

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This is the minimum temp and humidity I spray primer. This instrument can be purchased for about 10 bucks at Walmart. Works great.

Pic #2
At 55 PSI at the gun, turn your fan up all the way and your material knob all the way in. While backing out the material knob spray until you get a light cover. I put a piece of masking paper taped to the wall to do this. Then I spray a light coat just over areas of filler or areas paint was sanded off.

Pic #3...
Then I adjust gun material knob up a bit and spray two wet coats of primer. WET DOESN’T MEAN RUNNY! This gives good coverage, and if not you can spray another coat. I used about 6 oz of primer.

Pic #4...
After 12 hours, you are back wet sanding. This time with 600 grit. Remember to sand until there are no shiny spots.

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Here fender is sanded, cleaned and ready for color. Most all automotive paints and primers do not need additives for flex and can be used on your plastic parts.

Pic #1.…
Here is what I keep the booth set. Usually between 70-75 degrees and under 45 RH.

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Mix paint per instructions and spray 2-3 wet coats overlapping the pattern by 50%. Wait 15 to 20 minutes on average before each coat. Set gun at 45 PSI. Base color is pretty easy to spray, but you want uniform coverage. Be sure to get the edges. How much paint for the fender: I mixed 1/2 pint and have enough to do about 4 more.

Pic #3...
Wait 1 hour…..Then your ready for clear coat. Here is what I use.

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Clear coat: Set gun at 50PSI. First coat should cover but be very, very light. Called a ‘tack’ coat. Let set for at least 15 min @ 70 degrees. 2nd, 3rd coats should be wet coats with ‘flash’ time between coats. Touch an inconspicuous spot and should be tacky--not stringy. Be careful of runs. Smooth strokes with 50% pattern overlap.

The following steps can be used to take out scuffs and scratches on your OEM paint. Most can be taken out without a complete refinish and look like new again.

Pic ##1...
Wait 24-48 hours. Then (guess what-- we have to sand again. This time wet sand with 1500 or 2000 grit paper. ONLY SAND THE LARGER AREAS. Don’t sand nooks and crannys you can’t get a buffer in. I sand with a folded piece by hand with no block. Again, when you are finished, you will have no shiny spots. Be careful not to sand through into your color and ruin what you have done.

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Pic #2.…
Now, the most important tool I own. It’s a cheaper air buffer with a 3” Velcro type attachment. You can buff by hand but it takes a lot of time and effort. I use a foam pad---never wool. Wool will burn into your work! The cotton pad is used to put on the compound. Slightly dampen the foam pad and buff with finishing compound.

Pic #3...
FINISHED! After buffing about 20 min. this is what I get. Looks as good (if not better) than factory. Don’t wax for 60 days. Never use a silicone based wax on anything!

BTW, good job Painter on the color match!!! Brought my girlfriend out to see what she thought of it... she was like... okay, which fender is it (when the fender was already on the bike), so... that is exactly the reaction that I was looking for!

Cheers mate!

Coors light aye... yarrrr...

Here are some new pics, got the fender back!!!

Stock fender, getting battered and bruised, too many holes!!!!...



New fender, looking good



Left side


Full on ass shot!!!



Looking pretty