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I wonder if this happens if the tyre gets frozen, some of you live in places where it snows. Hedgehog might be a good person to ask as I recall he rode his bike in all sorts of low temperatures....
The second picture is of the new tire that I just purchased and had installed in June 2020.
Motorcycle tires hold up just fine in Winter (if inflated properly...), although they usually don't have as much traction as in warmer temperatures. Outgassing causes dry rot (cracking).

There's a lot of treadware and cracking on the second tire for being "new"...


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Discussion Starter #22
I purchased the tire in June of this year from J&P and had it installed by a local Powersports shop. I put some miles on it since then so that's why you see tread wear. The small cracks that you see between the tread were there when I received the tire....looking back, I probably should of sent the tire back to J&P. Also, I didn't check the manufacture date when I received the tire, which I should have checked. The date is 0517
 

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I purchased the tire in June of this year from J&P and had it installed by a local Powersports shop. I put some miles on it since then so that's why you see tread wear. The small cracks that you see between the tread were there when I received the tire....looking back, I probably should of sent the tire back to J&P. Also, I didn't check the manufacture date when I received the tire, which I should have checked. The date is 0517
I would have hoped that your local Powersports shop would have raised some alarm in the condition of this tire before mounting it. Just the liability involved with mounting motorcycle tires has led almost all shops around here to refuse to mount them unless you buy from them.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Well, I purchased a Michelin Commander II and replaced the cracked Dunlop tire with it. So far so good....put a little over 500 miles on it & no problems yet.
So I’ve got a fairly new Dunlop on the rear & a new Michelin on the front. Hope 2 different brand tires won’t be an issue....time will tell.
Thanks again for all the input. Michelin front.jpg
 

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After 4 years, my 2015 front OR tire started to wobble/shimmy at low speeds. The inner liner had a 6" split in the center running parallel to the beads. Luckily I didn't wait too long to take it apart. My dealer installed a new tire one size larger without telling me and when I left it felt squirrelly. I made them take it off and install an OE tire. Problem solved. However, since learning about the '5 year rule', I plan to use that for my car and use a 3 year rule on tires for my bike. I have no desire to test my new jacket or kevlar jeans. I may go with a different brand but hesitate to change sizes after my earlier problem. Any opinions or suggestions? I plan to take a ride next summer that exceed 7k miles and don't want problems.
 

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Personal opinion: OEM tires/rim sizes are engineered to perform well under an incredible amount of varying conditions--changing things generally results in a compromise, and some variables aren't obvious.

Now, I'm not your mom nor do I know what's important to you, so you're free to do as you wish, it's up to you. I've deviated from OEM myself on some builds, so there's no soap-box for me to stand on, nor would I want to. What I suggest is understand the impact of your decisions and accept the potential outcomes.
 

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After 4 years, my 2015 front OR tire started to wobble/shimmy at low speeds. The inner liner had a 6" split in the center running parallel to the beads. Luckily I didn't wait too long to take it apart. My dealer installed a new tire one size larger without telling me and when I left it felt squirrelly. I made them take it off and install an OE tire. Problem solved. However, since learning about the '5 year rule', I plan to use that for my car and use a 3 year rule on tires for my bike. I have no desire to test my new jacket or kevlar jeans. I may go with a different brand but hesitate to change sizes after my earlier problem. Any opinions or suggestions? I plan to take a ride next summer that exceed 7k miles and don't want problems.
'3 year rule' IS the rule, be it bike OR car! Where did you hear about a '5 year rule' when purchasing tires?
 

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I heard 5 years from a collector/mechanic/incredible wrench. I was about to test drive his Valkyre before buying but he said the tires were 5 years old, so I had to wait. I told him that's if you want to push the bike to its limits, I prefer to stay well under them. Told him he should take it out himself and keep it under 85 MPH. He did, enjoyed it, and decided not to sell...which is how I got the Fury....
 

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I don't have a 'rule' for tire life outside of tread depth. I base it on observation of the tire. If I saw any cracking or splitting, at all, specially on the bike, it's gone. I put up with a lot longer on my truck. Got rid of them when the rubber had aged so much that even in rain they slid too easily. Up to that point I simply compensated by using the 4 wheel drive. Another issue can be that when they get old they can start to go out of round.
 
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I don't have a 'rule' for tire life outside of tread depth. I base it on observation of the tire. If I saw any cracking or splitting, at all, specially on the bike, it's gone. I put up with a lot longer on my truck. Got rid of them when the rubber had aged so much that even in rain they slid too easily. Up to that point I simply compensated by using the 4 wheel drive. Another issue can be that when they get old they can start to go out of round.
I agree with this. There is no rule. It depends on how you take care of the bike, where you live, where the bike is parked, how much you ride, conditions...I could go on and on. Park your bike too long? Flat spots in the tire. Out in the sun? Dries out and cracks. Age? Rubber changes composite. Inspect your tires. Regularly. It's the only thing contacting the ground, and it's going to keep you and your 1up safe.

I would never compromise tire condition. Cracks, hard rubber... It's gone. Worn out? It's gone.

Tires are something you don't want to skimp on ...MC or vehicle.
 
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Down south we call it dry rotted, if you don't roll them to keep them flexible they will crack when you eventually do.
 

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I had a customer purchase tires from me, he saw the date code (4 years old) and he returned them. He mentioned a '5 year rule'. I started in my Dads tire store when I was 15 and never heard of a rule except use your eyes and brain when inspecting them. Dry rot? The cords inside are probably worse. Any superficial cut? Start looking for tires. If you can see the cords when you spread the cut, look for tires faster and don't ride. Any sudden change like a shimmy especially at low speed, carefully come to a stop and park it until you find new tires. There are a lot of things that call for new tires but a rule strictly based on age? Dunno about that one. My Fury is a '15 with original rear. Replaced the front when the inner cords separated causing low speed wobble. I asked my tech to check it during service and he knew the problem. Yes, I know I should have checked it sooner. I was riding it daily to work and just went faster until it stopped wobbling. So, having said all that, I'm looking for tires. I'm fine with original sizes unless I hear a good reason to change from all you experts. lol.
 

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The original tire sizes seem to work best, anything else has been a compromise.

I think there was one member who wanted a fatter front (rim & tire) for better turning, don't know where that went. The stock 200 rear is really fat, that's a Gold Wing size I believe; old - school choppers have skinny tires front and rear for great handling and low cost. The Fury does look great with a fat rear though.
 

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The original tire sizes seem to work best, anything else has been a compromise.

I think there was one member who wanted a fatter front (rim & tire) for better turning, don't know where that went. The stock 200 rear is really fat, that's a Gold Wing size I believe; old - school choppers have skinny tires front and rear for great handling and low cost. The Fury does look great with a fat rear though.
The late Indian Larry always said the widest tyre he would use on the rear is 190 or 195 otherwise the handling suffers. I note he always used an almost identical wheel and tyre size to our Furys, at least as far as Harley sizing allows. That says a lot to me as he alwys practiced what he preached.
 

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Not mine but just a reminder, check those tires.
238050
 
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