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Discussion Starter #1
Ok first thing to do is Kinda throw away the directions. Took me about 1 hr to install, but coulda been cut down to about 20 mins if i would have not tried following the directions. The directions say to remove or lift the back of the tank up to access the injectors. Ignore that I couldnt even see my injectors from under the tank.

I just did my install and found it much easier to pull the covers off back head and pull the intake off. this allowed me to be able to get into the injectors without removing tank. If you do it the Quick way you could pull the intake, and back head covers, pull battery cover, have room to route the wire the leads into the injectors, and can hook the ground up to the battery.

I wanted to keep battery area uncluttered so wired onto the ground below the seat since i had the seat off the bike already. Overall though quick easy install after i realised that
 

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Thanks for the tip. I have new exaust, intake, and power commander still sitting in boxes. I'll try to remember this when I get around to installing them.
Does anyone know if it's at all nessasary to hook up to the speed sensor?
 

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Thanks for the tip. I have new exaust, intake, and power commander still sitting in boxes. I'll try to remember this when I get around to installing them.
Does anyone know if it's at all nessasary to hook up to the speed sensor?
All i had to do was hook up to the throttle position sensor and put it inline to the fuel injector's. Yes TPS is neccissary the way the PC-V works is it monitors RPM based on pulsing of the injector and the throttle position to dictate how much more fuel to push through the injector. I didnt hook up a speed sensor.

When you go to do your bike, put pipes on, then strap the PCV the way directions show. I have battery tender leads on my battery and am going to add LED's so dont want too much excess around the battery (that is why i used the ground under the seat) pull the back head covers off to give you room to run the wires, and remove the OEM air intake, the Injectors are right under the snorkle piece (Lifting the tank will give you a little more room, but not significantly so i would just leave it) just fish the wires across the bike along the main loom and fuel lines then unplug injectors and plug the PCV in, at top of throttle body is the TPS so i tapped in right at the TPS for the wire from the PCV. Then you can put your aftermarket intake on the bike.
 

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I'm pretty sure it is the RED & ORANGE wire that needs to be tapped into for the throttle sensor. Correct me if I'm wrong please. The tap-in thingy that dynojet sends with the kit is pretty ingenious.

The directions are in black and white and you can't quite make out what the arrows are pointing at. But once you find the wire it's all easy. Just don't drop the tap-in thingy. I spent 10 minutes in the garage looking for the stupid thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm pretty sure it is the RED & ORANGE wire that needs to be tapped into for the throttle sensor. Correct me if I'm wrong please. The tap-in thingy that dynojet sends with the kit is pretty ingenious.

The directions are in black and white and you can't quite make out what the arrows are pointing at. But once you find the wire it's all easy. Just don't drop the tap-in thingy. I spent 10 minutes in the garage looking for the stupid thing.
its yellow/red you tap off the TPS with the Grey PCV wire. They say that in the instructions, I read the instructions but when i went to do it was like WTF because i couldnt find anything from under the tank
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What is the diff. between 2000 & power com ?
I dont know how FI2000 hooks up (probably similar to PCV though since you have to put it inline with the injectors), but for function the FI2000 you can adjust with 3 knobs, and can do it on the fly. The PC-V you have to use a computer to adjust, but you can adjust the % of fuel mix for each grouping of RPM's and throttle position, so you can tailor the fuel curve more.

Basicly the FI2000 is more backyard redneck mechanic and easy to use but not as accurate as the PC-V. The PC-v you can also add more accessories to like AutoTune, Quick shift kit, and some more stuff that the tuning becomes even more precise or more performance oriented
 

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I dont know how FI2000 hooks up (probably similar to PCV though since you have to put it inline with the injectors), but for function the FI2000 you can adjust with 3 knobs, and can do it on the fly. The PC-V you have to use a computer to adjust, but you can adjust the % of fuel mix for each grouping of RPM's and throttle position, so you can tailor the fuel curve more.

Basicly the FI2000 is more backyard redneck mechanic and easy to use but not as accurate as the PC-V. The PC-v you can also add more accessories to like AutoTune, Quick shift kit, and some more stuff that the tuning becomes even more precise or more performance oriented
Oh lord that will raise a few eybrows (Backyard Redneck Mechanic..lol :D)
 

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Oh lord that will raise a few eybrows (Backyard Redneck Mechanic..lol :D)
I ment it as it simplified it to where you have to adjust a couple knobs rather than punch in a more precise number for each value. That dumbs it down to where more people are capible of tuning it where PC-V is tricky to write your own code so your stuck using a Dyno Shop or having a really good understanding of tuning and patience. For acuracy of the overall AFR though the PC-V is by far the way to go
 

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PC-V is tricky to write your own code so your stuck using a Dyno Shop or having a really good understanding of tuning and patience. For acuracy of the overall AFR though the PC-V is by far the way to go
Imwright, it was my understanding PC has dynoed most configurations of set ups and you can call and simply download the map to your computer, and minor fine tuneing from there if need be. They already did the work, pretty much plug and play, values have been established, download map for configuration, press enter, or 15 min at dealer, $30-$60 or you can download to your computer and enter. Write your own code? I may be wrong.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Imwright, it was my understanding PC has dynoed most configurations of set ups and you can call and simply download the map to your computer, and minor fine tuneing from there if need be. They already did the work, pretty much plug and play, values have been established, download map for configuration, press enter, or 15 min at dealer, $30-$60 or you can download to your computer and enter. Write your own code? I may be wrong.:)
they have Maps setup for certain Configs, If you can get a map that is very comprable to what you would need then you can tweek it from there. I left it like that because depending on what you have done you may be kinda screwed and building ground up. For the typical Mods (Cobra Exhaust, S&S or Spike intake they already have them set) more exhaust options may be availible but not that i currently know of
 

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Ive got cobra swepts no baffles spike air intake.still running power commanders tune for cobra swepts guess baffled and stock air intake. anyone know where to get the correct tune for my setup without paying for a dyno.any help appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ive got cobra swepts no baffles spike air intake.still running power commanders tune for cobra swepts guess baffled and stock air intake. anyone know where to get the correct tune for my setup without paying for a dyno.any help appreciated.
Dynojet powercommander site has it, shoulda came on your software too
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just checked there web site and dont see it again looking for cobra swepts no baffles and spike air intake map surly someone s got it
Call S&S, tell them you got their intake kit, they probably have one for it i think it was Andy or someone that offered them up on here
 

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Ive got cobra swepts no baffles spike air intake.still running power commanders tune for cobra swepts guess baffled and stock air intake. anyone know where to get the correct tune for my setup without paying for a dyno.any help appreciated.
I'd think S&S's map for their air cleaner and de-baffled cobra swepts would give you a closer performance map than what you're running now. A spike intake and S&S's teardrop will be closer to each other than either is to stock; and I know they dyno'ed for cobra's both w/and/without baffles, as well as fuggin's pipes. They may have added more by now; last I spoke to them must be goin' on a couple months now.
 

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Cobra's site has downloadable instructions for installing their Ti2000. I can't imagine any other mfgr's instructions would require anything different. Jeez, the injectors are accessible after you remove the air intake and the head covers. Dyna Jet said to remove the tank? Are they serious? You were spot-on, my friend!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yep, unless i was on the wron drugs when i installed, the instructions said lift back of the tank or remove tank. I tried doing everything by the book just to keep it from messing up as easily and after looking for about a minute said the heck with it, started figuring it out like i would for a car
 

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I'd think S&S's map for their air cleaner and de-baffled cobra swepts would give you a closer performance map than what you're running now. A spike intake and S&S's teardrop will be closer to each other than either is to stock; and I know they dyno'ed for cobra's both w/and/without baffles, as well as fuggin's pipes. They may have added more by now; last I spoke to them must be goin' on a couple months now.
Some one downloaded the maps with and without baffles with the S & S and cobra pipes. They could not find any map differences between those two maps and the default.
Which I thought was weird.. But I don't have that controller..
 
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