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First things first, let's look at what fits the Fury's battery compartment:

Case Dimensions

EarthX recommends the 24C, which is plenty of power for this bike given the voltage doesn't sag under load like AGM batteries. (Honda uses an AGM battery, which is an upgrade over lead-acid.)

If you plan on running LED underglow lights while parked with the engine off (for showing off while out on the town), the 36C is the largest battery they make which will just barely squeeze in there and provide more power for marginal cost.

The top-end battery that will fit is the ETX680, which is a 36C with upgraded (and redundant) battery management electronics, the rest of the battery is the same.Note the ETX680 aircraft battery does not come with the universal adapters since aircraft don't need them. EarthX provided us with the following solution: :smile:

EarthX said:
Hi Hedge,

You can order the terminals on our website for $5.99 in addition to the battery or make sure to put a note on the order that you would like to have the terminal adapters with the battery and we would be happy to try and oblige. As this is not standard, I would recommend a phone call to follow up on the order, or a phone call to place the order, or a separate email directly after placing the order so the shipping department will add the terminals. If the terminals are ordered via the website, it will for sure get added as it is a separate line item to be packed.

Kathy Nicoson
EarthX Lithium Batteries
Global Sales Director
So for $6 you can be sure they'll send the adapters, or if you're cheap (like @Goat ) you can cross your fingers (or hooves) and hope they see your note and send the adapters at no charge. (You could instead pull the negative cable up more, and re-route the positive wire straight up from underneath instead of having it running around from the outside on the far left, but I don't recommend this, and it's kind of a pain-in-the-ass to get the cable back-fed due to it catching on the frame on the way out.)

EarthX Models > Product Category > Accessories > Terminal Adapter (pg. 2)

Here's why the tiny 24C is sufficient:

  • A fully charged lithium battery will measure 13.28 to 14.6 volts at rest (you should charge it if it falls under 13.28V), and lithium battery voltage remains relatively constant while discharging (such as when starting the bike), whereas lead-acid battery voltage starts at about 12.8V and decreases (sags) under load to about 9V in the Fury. This means with lithium the starter uses more voltage and less current so starts the bike faster and heats the starter up less, meaning less chance of the starter failing prematurely.
  • A lithium battery can use 100% of its storage capability (measured as Amp-Hour, Ah), while a lead-acid battery typically only uses 30% before falling to 9V, therefore a smaller lithium battery capacity is needed compared to AGM.
  • Because lithium battery cranking power does not drop-off it will crank your engine longer (but when the lithium battery runs out of power it does so abruptly).
Since the OEM battery is rated at 230 CCA I'm going to guess the current draw while starting the Fury is around 100A. If we test a new 36C we can double the test current from 100A to 200A in order to compensate for the wear put on a battery that's a few years old and delivering less current.

EarthX 36C Result: 13.5V after 15 seconds, while still under a 200A load.

Resting voltage of a AGM cell: 12.8 to 12.9V

Conclusion: The EarthX 36C puts out more voltage while under a 200A load than the OEM battery puts out under no load. We can therefore guess a 3-year-old EarthX battery under a 100A load while starting the Fury will still put out 13V or so, which is still more voltage than a new AGM battery (that puts out 12.8V at rest, less when under load). Therefore under normal circumstances the 24C should be better in the Fury than the factory AGM battery, especially as both batteries age.

The heaviest battery of the three, ETX680, still feels like a kid's toy. It's 4 lbs, whereas the stock Yuasa YTZ14S battery is more than double that at 8.6 lbs. The 36C & ETX680 are 12.4 AH, whereas the Yuasa is 11.2. The 36C charges faster, holds near constant voltage under load, and starts the engine easier, even when near dead.

I will note one thing people tend to brag about is lithium batteries are light, and you should buy them because that's sexy. Yes, it is sexy, but a four pound savings is nothing compared to the total weight of you and the bike--hell, your mirrors probably weigh that much! Your fatty tire will add more weight than that. Your clothing weighs more than that! 4 lbs is nothing, buy it for the other benefits. (And for God's sake, keep your clothes on!)



(universal adapters, as @Kbuskill and @Señor Gar state, you'll want 'em)



(installed, photo courtesy of @Kbuskill)



(tons o' power! @ 4 lbs)



(also sexy)
 

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Well my EarthX battery shorted out after 2 years and 8 months, it was well maintained on my optimate charger and gave no signs of trouble,pulled it down and it went to save mode and would not recover.. earthx gave me a 20% off code on a new one so I bought another one for little over $ 290.00 just because the thing did crank the fury so good! I did put it in the old school bike to try to crank it when I had the ignition switch problem so this could’ve caused the problem,but the the old school killed the wps lithium in it and that battery recovered and took a charge. So new earthx in fury and recharged wps still in the old school. I’ll have to see how this earthx last and study the options on Senior Gar’s thread on batteries,considering the cost and the time they last.
 

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First things first, let's look at what fits the Fury's battery compartment:
All referenced to the ETX680 should say ETX680C. The ETX680 won't fit, the ETX680C (compact) battery will fit, although really, really tightly. Pretty much have to pry the top strap retainer up with a flat-blade screwdriver when removing the battery, then gently pry the battery forward with another flat-blade screwdriver. Easy, but be prepared for it to be wedged in there tightly.


Note that if the battery is left in the motorcycle over winter there is a "parasidic draw" from the ECU, clock, and possibly a PowerCommander 5 or other add-on fuel controller, which is why EarthX says to remove the battery if the machine is being stored. This draw will drain the battery, which is a bad thing.


A lead-acid battery will continue to supply power until it runs out of power, and the slow power drain will quite possibly destroy the battery. Conversely, the EarthX will eventually reach Low Voltage Cutoff and shut down, going into "sleep mode." Remove the battery from the motorcycle and if there's enough power the battery's internal circuityr might come out of sleep mode and show 9 to 12V--if not don't worry about it yet, charge it with 1 to 5 amps for 20-30 minutes and the battery will probably come out of sleep mode.



DO NOT USE A PULSE CHARGER! NoCo and CTEK chargers for lead-acid batteries use high-voltage pulses to break down sulfur in a lead-acid battery. These pulses can be damaging to the EarthX Battery Management System's circuitry, so use a smart charger that supplies non-pulsed DC.


When the battery voltage is at or above 12.8 V the 1-5 amp charge current can be increased to 5 to 12 amps; the manual says 15 amps but that's a maximum and should be used only if you're in a real hurry. Even at 12.8 V the battery should start the Fury, so you could stick it in and fire the bike up, the battery charges quickly in the Fuiy it should be good to go. Charging it at 5 amps for 1 hour should give it enough juice to start even a stubborn bike.
 

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Here's a great question another member raised: Is it better to buy a WPS battery for $115 or an EarthX for $400.


The top-end consumer-level battery that'll fit the Fury is the EarthX ETX680C, which is pretty spendy:
- ETX680C $380
- Universal adapters $6

- Shipping $12
Total: $400



The WPS battery is $280 less expensive. Some notes on that:

- WPS appears to be an in-house brand of Western Power Sports, and from what I remember they buy "higher quality Made-In-China batteries."

- I don't know who actually makes the Chinese battery, it could be one company or several. I don't know their reputation as the only name on the battery is the distributor's name, so quality could suffer at any point in the supply chain and I wouldn't know at what point that happened.

- WPS probably has some protection circuitry, I don't know and they don't talk about it, so who knows. I'm guessing it's minimal and using the cheapest components that'll get the job done. I run remote control aircraft and have never had a lithium battery flame up on me, but have seen videos of it and there are a lot of warnings about being careful with lithium batteries as they're self-fueling (supply their own oxygen) so are really hard to extinguish. I'm careful with them in general and add alarm circuitry to my aircraft to help avoid a fire--which did save my bacon once, so I'm really glad extra precautions were taken.

-My experience with Chinese lithium batteries is they run well at first, but tend to have a shorter lifespan than brand name. Sometimes it's much shorter, sometimes only a little, it depends on the brand. You do save a lot of money, so fair enough.

- The EarthX "hundred-series" battery has a lot of protection circuitry, and redundant circuitry at that. I don't want to see a bike burning down in the event of a lack of protection event, nor the owner be stranded if the circuitry fails, so redundant works.

- EarthX ETX680C is an aviation-grade battery so it has to comply with aviation standards, which are pretty high. Things could still go catastrophically wrong, but the chances are minimal. WPS has some sort of quality standards in place, they've built a reputation for selling reliable, inexpensive batteries. I don't know what those standards are or if they'll change or get overlooked at some point, but so far they do seem reliable.

- Buying off eBay is a huge gamble. Lots of people can scan and print WPS battery stickers, then put them on any battery they want and sell them as WPS. Similar with Amazon. Buying direct from WPS or EarthX is perhaps slightly more expensive, but you know who you're getting the product from and the warranty is valid. How a company warrants it may be a concern, and so far EarthX customer service has been excellent; I'm guessing WPS is also good or better if you buy directly from them. The good thing about Amazon is they have reviews and you can get an idea of the quality of a brand and product, even if you decide to buy direct from the manufacturer.




In the end I can't say which is better. Lithium battery prices are decreasing and quality increasing for some brands, so maybe the WPS is the better buy. Conversely many put a lot of time and money into the bike and don't want to risk it on $280.

I would stay away from brands without a good reputation. Regarding lithium car/motorcycle batteries it seems the worst that usually happens is they die prematurely and have no warranty, so while you can buy 4 of them for the price of an EarthX, the cost of flatbedding your bike could easily burn through any potential savings, plus you need to replace the battery, possibly right then and there, so are subject to whatever retail prices and battery you can get. And if your bike is stolen during this whole fiasco...
 

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Mine's here and installed. Pretty good since I ordered it Sat. morning with the cheapest shipping option. Light as heck, really weird to think this is going to produce more power than the heavier lead acids, but she fired right up.
So far so good.Two upstate NY winters in a detached (cold) garage and it fired up no problem. I start it here and there through the winter and let it run for a little bit.
 

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It's Spring and the "which battery" topic came up again, so here's an update:

The EarthX ETX680C lithium battery is probably overkill. The Fury alternator generates enough power at idle to run the bike, headlight, tons of heated gear, LEDs, and phone without issue, so there's no draw on the battery and no need for an oversized battery related to normal starting / running conditions. If that's all the battery is being used for a smaller and less expensive lithium battery will probably work just fine.

Running LEDs or a stereo outside a bar or at a show might require a battery with the power of the ETX680C, depending on run time, current draw, and temperature conditions.

The advanced electronics in the aviation battery already paid for themselves over winter, saving the battery from over-discharging and being permanently dead, remembering that once a lithium battery goes below 2.45V/cell a chemical change takes place and it's forever dead. Low-voltage cutoff is something worth getting.

The question of how much capacity remains. On one hand using a larger capacity greatly extends the life of the battery. On the other hand battery technology is improving quickly and driving costs down, so there's benefits of buying a smaller battery and replacing it in a few years.

Recapping information discussed previously, the Fury has, in my opinion, an undersized AGM battery and undersized starter, therefore highly befitts from a lithium battery. My advice is to buy the smallest battery that will do the job for the next four years before needing replacement. Buy a battery of a quality level matching the bike--if a Fury is worth $5,000 a top-end battery probably isn't a huge concern, but if a Fury is worth $30K it's probably best to put in a top-end battery. Remember too a battery made in China could be total junk and leave you stranded, or it could be high-end and run "forever." Remember the saying: "Buy cheap, buy twice."



 

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Remove and replace?????

I'm going to order this battery from Amazon.....
Please advise .... is this a remove old and drop in new battery without any special procedures for install????

Thanks in advance.....:toast:
 

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So as some of you know I bought the EarthX lithium iron phosphate (LiFeP04 ) battery recently and there was some interest in my evaluation of it once I had time to ride with it in for a bit, mainly in hot start situations.

Well I took Marilyn out to stretch her legs over the past few days as the weather here in Northeast Florida was absolutely beautiful, 86° and no rain (eat your heart out Scott (my polish Brother)).

Although it was not extremely hot the way it gets in the middle of summer here I am still glad to report that after stopping for gas 2-3 times on both days the bike never once hesitated to start, you can just breathe on the starter switch and she roars to life.

I will keep you all posted how she does this summer in the 100°+ temps but I don't forsee this being an issue.

For those of you who may have missed my posts in the other thread about "what replacement battery did you buy" here is the link and info:

ETX36C - EarthX Motorsports

This is the biggest (cranking amp) baddest battery that I could find as a direct replacement battery for our bikes.
It is physically the same size as our stock battery but puts out almost 3x the cranking amps and also has 36AH rating vs our stock 11.4AH battery.They also sell a direct replacement size comparable to our stock CCA and a mid grade that has a bit more CCA than the one previously mentioned and they are a lil bit cheaper but I figured if your gonna go you may as well go all out and get the big one and not worry about hot starts ever again.

It also has its own built in BMS (battery management system) so there is no special charger needed as with other LiFePO4 batteries. You can maintain it off of any lead acid battery maintainer as long as it doesn't have a desulfation mode. But in reality if you are riding on a somewhat regular basis there is no need for a maintainer because with the built in BMS it self regulates the charge from the bikes alternator and balances all the cells within the battery. And if you are storing the bike for the winter just disconnect the battery from the bike as these batteries don't have the high self discharge rate like lead acid batteries do. The company claims a 10% voltage loss over a 1 year period when there is no parasitic drain (such as our clock on our bikes) so on a fully charged battery (13.4v) you would only lose 1.34 volts in a year so you would still have 12 volts when you go to start the bike a year later.


It is also ALOT lighter, weighing in at only 3.5lbs compared to our lead acid AGM type batteries which are in the 10-12lb range.

It comes with a full 2 year warranty for manufacturers defects. If your battery craps out within 2 years they will send you a brand new 1 for free. Its not a prorated warranty like most manufacturers offer. And they claim that this battery should last approximately 8 years since the BMS keeps the cells balanced for good battery health.

The BMS also has overcharge protection so if your rectifier/regulator goes bad and lets the alternator overcharge the battery will shut off the power coming in.

It also has low voltage protection so if you forget your key on and your headlight runs your battery down it will shut the power off (at a certain voltage) coming out of the battery to keep the battery from entering a fatally low charge (if you kill a LiFePO4 battery just once it is junk and not recoverable) its kinda like flipping a circuit breaker.

I know this is kind of a long post but here is the best part in my opinion.

Its made in the U. S. A.

Is it a little on the pricey side? Yes

Does it make me feel better knowing that some poor working class guy like me was able to make a paycheck by building this battery here in the good ole USA? Abso-freakin-lutely

Is it worth the money? I would say yes because it is very annoying when you stop for gas and everyone wants to come over and talk to you about your beautiful gorgeous sexy bike and ask 1.7 million questions about it and then when you go to start it and CLUNK it won't start so you have to put it in gear and roll it backwards to get the engine off the compression stroke so the starter has enough gumption to turn the engine over. With this battery (so far) that is no longer an issue.

And lets be honest, we spend $8-k$14k for these bikes, are we really gonna miss a meal over a $350 battery? Why skimp on something that important?





So this is what Hillzz meant when he suggested that I examine the public records, comb, dig through, hunt, rake, and just plain SEARCH for info on batteries and chargers. Thanks. And then everyone chipped in with the old thumbs up, correctly thinking yeah dumb ass, it's all right there on the Forum. "It's better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt". Can I take back some of the stupid questions that I have asked? Cuz there's been lots.... but it's nice to still be learning something. Thanks again for all the information on batteries and chargers.
 

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As mentioned in another post I just ordered an EarthX ETX36C from their website for my 2011 Interstate. Looking forward to an end of the hot engine restart issue! Thanks for everyone's input.
 

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Quoted from the EarthX website: For chargers with a maintenance mode, the maintenance mode voltage should be 13.3V – 13.9V. For example, the Battery Tender JR has a maintenance mode voltage of 13.3V which is compatible, whereas the original Battery Tender or Battery Tender Plus has a maintenance mode voltage of 13.2V which is too low for a lithium battery.
 

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Quoted from the EarthX website: For chargers with a maintenance mode, the maintenance mode voltage should be 13.3V – 13.9V. For example, the Battery Tender JR has a maintenance mode voltage of 13.3V which is compatible, whereas the original Battery Tender or Battery Tender Plus has a maintenance mode voltage of 13.2V which is too low for a lithium battery.
I confirmed last night I'm running the Jr.
 
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