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Nice intake krashDH. All machined and everything. Makes my bike look more and more like a hack job, think road warrior. Mine's not too pretty but it's light weight from all that I've removed and it goes. My numbers with DynoJet Power Commander 5, Spike air cleaner, and Hacker Ripper pipes (no baffle). DynoSteve's Olympia, WA. Two years ago. And ECU Flash numbers from this site (if correct). So I'm feeling pretty good. It would be great if everyone on the FuryForum boasted their numbers (if you dare). See what you got. Everyone goes on and on about the re-flash. I'm not impressed. Or am I missing something? Correct numbers don't lie. I'd love to see higher numbers from anyone. Anyone? Just to see what's out there.
 

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Nice intake krashDH. All machined and everything. Makes my bike look more and more like a hack job, think road warrior. Mine's not too pretty but it's light weight from all that I've removed and it goes. My numbers with DynoJet Power Commander 5, Spike air cleaner, and Hacker Ripper pipes (no baffle). DynoSteve's Olympia, WA. Two years ago. And ECU Flash numbers from this site (if correct). So I'm feeling pretty good. It would be great if everyone on the FuryForum boasted their numbers (if you dare). See what you got. Everyone goes on and on about the re-flash. I'm not impressed. Or am I missing something? Correct numbers don't lie. I'd love to see higher numbers from anyone. Anyone? Just to see what's out there.
If you look at the spread between the HP and TQ numbers on yours and the reflash... they are about the same. That is to say that the difference between the HP (71) and the TQ (82) is about 10-11.... same as the reflash.

My best assumption is that since a different dyno machine was used the calibrations, between the two dyno machines, are slightly off/different.

What I'm saying is if you had a reflashed bike tested on the same dyno that your bike was tested on, the difference would probably be negligible.

My 2 bits.
 

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@SUNS , thanks for the compliment.

Yeah as far as numbers go, I think they're pretty leveled out from the reflash to any box tuner. Both styles are pulling all they can out of the Fury without destroying components. I'm sure you could pull more power from the Fury but you're risking compromising the engine hardware design. To get much more out of it you would need stronger supporting mods (bore, rods, etc etc).

How's the saying go? "There's no replacement for displacement..."
 

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@SUNS , thanks for the compliment.

Yeah as far as numbers go, I think they're pretty leveled out from the reflash to any box tuner. Both styles are pulling all they can out of the Fury without destroying components. I'm sure you could pull more power from the Fury but you're risking compromising the engine hardware design. To get much more out of it you would need stronger supporting mods (bore, rods, etc etc).

How's the saying go? "There's no replacement for displacement..."
I don't get it. Sure the spread is close but the numbers aren't. My torque is 82.83. ECU torque is only 76.40. My Hp is 71.16. ECU HP is only 67.50. Just installing it (red line on my chart) before the Dyno adjustment gave me more Hp and torque than a reflash. As per these reflash numbers from this site. Are these numbers wrong on the reflash? I think Dyno machines are all close if they are calibrated correctly.Can't imagine different machines are that much different, if calibrated. Please explain for us novices. Thanks
 

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I don't get it. Sure the spread is close but the numbers aren't. My torque is 82.83. ECU torque is only 76.40. My Hp is 71.16. ECU HP is only 67.50. Just installing it (red line on my chart) before the Dyno adjustment gave me more Hp and torque than a reflash. As per these reflash numbers from this site. Are these numbers wrong on the reflash? I think Dyno machines are all close if they are calibrated correctly.Can't imagine different machines are that much different, if calibrated. Please explain for us novices. Thanks
Take a torque wrench for example. The tolerance on the nominal torque value you set on an off-the shelf, cheap torque wrench is somewhere around +/- 15% But let's use +/-10% for the ease of math. If you set your nominal torque value to 100 ft-lb, depending on the calibration of the torque wrench, the "actual" torque applied to a fastener could be anywhere from 90 ft-lbf to 110 ft-lb of force. That's a pretty large spread.

Now let's take your average dyno. There is a percentage of accuracy that a well maintained dyno should hold to for accuracy purposes. I don't know what the number is, but I'd hope it would fall into the 1-2% category for the same dyno at any given day. We call that repeatability. If you hit a value of 82 ft-lb of torque, +/- 2% is +/-1.64 ft -lb. So your actual torque spread could be anywhere from 80.4-83.6. But we will never know that value.

To couple off the above statement, lets say you can have a +/-1.64 ft-lb on the dyno you are on during your back to back to.....____runs. Now if you were to test your numbers against a dyno across the country, with another bike, who's to say that the dyno on the east coast is calibrated perfectly to the one on the West coast? They CAN have the same repeatability and they SHOULD, but there could be a deviation between readings depending on lots of things including how they are calibrated. You may have read XX HP/TQ on the west coast, but on the east coast it would read YY HP/TQ

The other thing is how many runs were taken on the dyno. If you just do multiple runs and claim the highest HP and torque value, it's for bragging rights only. You should average those numbers out and that should technically be your reported, real world numbers. But no one will ever do that. Because of bragging rights.

As well, who are the riders? Weights, what they ate, what they are wearing. Also the bikes. They will be different. Different intake, pipes, tires including pressure, type, tread wear, etc (is all of the power getting to the rollers on each bike or is one slipping ever so slightlly) all account for final numbers. Elevation changes?

The only way we will ever know, or the closest we will get to knowing in a real world testing would be the SAME rider, on the SAME bike, at the SAME dyno doing back to back to _ runs. In between runs you fill the tank to the same level, use the same fuel and average the numbers. Then , you swap from the ECU to the Box tuner or vice versa and perform the same tests, ensuring that the test parameters remain unchanged.

Also, HP is a made up thing.
 

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Take a torque wrench for example. The tolerance on the nominal torque value you set on an off-the shelf, cheap torque wrench is somewhere around +/- 15% But let's use +/-10% for the ease of math. If you set your nominal torque value to 100 ft-lb, depending on the calibration of the torque wrench, the "actual" torque applied to a fastener could be anywhere from 90 ft-lbf to 110 ft-lb of force. That's a pretty large spread.

Now let's take your average dyno. There is a percentage of accuracy that a well maintained dyno should hold to for accuracy purposes. I don't know what the number is, but I'd hope it would fall into the 1-2% category for the same dyno at any given day. We call that repeatability. If you hit a value of 82 ft-lb of torque, +/- 2% is +/-1.64 ft -lb. So your actual torque spread could be anywhere from 80.4-83.6. But we will never know that value.

To couple off the above statement, lets say you can have a +/-1.64 ft-lb on the dyno you are on during your back to back to.....____runs. Now if you were to test your numbers against a dyno across the country, with another bike, who's to say that the dyno on the east coast is calibrated perfectly to the one on the West coast? They CAN have the same repeatability and they SHOULD, but there could be a deviation between readings depending on lots of things including how they are calibrated. You may have read XX HP/TQ on the west coast, but on the east coast it would read YY HP/TQ

The other thing is how many runs were taken on the dyno. If you just do multiple runs and claim the highest HP and torque value, it's for bragging rights only. You should average those numbers out and that should technically be your reported, real world numbers. But no one will ever do that. Because of bragging rights.

As well, who are the riders? Weights, what they ate, what they are wearing. Also the bikes. They will be different. Different intake, pipes, tires including pressure, type, tread wear, etc (is all of the power getting to the rollers on each bike or is one slipping ever so slightlly) all account for final numbers. Elevation changes?

The only way we will ever know, or the closest we will get to knowing in a real world testing would be the SAME rider, on the SAME bike, at the SAME dyno doing back to back to _ runs. In between runs you fill the tank to the same level, use the same fuel and average the numbers. Then , you swap from the ECU to the Box tuner or vice versa and perform the same tests, ensuring that the test parameters remain unchanged.

Also, HP is a made up thing.
He gets it... he really gets it... lol
 

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I don't get it. Sure the spread is close but the numbers aren't. My torque is 82.83. ECU torque is only 76.40. My Hp is 71.16. ECU HP is only 67.50. Just installing it (red line on my chart) before the Dyno adjustment gave me more Hp and torque than a reflash. As per these reflash numbers from this site. Are these numbers wrong on the reflash? I think Dyno machines are all close if they are calibrated correctly.Can't imagine different machines are that much different, if calibrated. Please explain for us novices. Thanks
3.66 HP and 6.43 TQ difference.

Question... how many dyno pulls did you make with your bike?

Did they all result in the same exact numbers?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
3.66 HP and 6.43 TQ difference.

Question... how many dyno pulls did you make with your bike?

Did they all result in the same exact numbers?
Thanks for the info. I think I'll go back for a second "run" this spring. Last time they had it up on the Dyno for about 1 hour or so. I know the numbers can have a lot of variables so they don't matter much. Just nice to know that's all. On another note I got my new Avon 240. Would rather have someone else do it but I guess I'll be changing it myself with all the tire stores closed. I will use Bead Pro tire irons and plastic rim protector shields for my first attempt at changing a tire. I've seen people use baby powder instead of Windex for the lube needed. Any thoughts on which one works better? krashDH mentioned a product called "Ride-On" in a previous post. Probably should use some of that stuff too. Thanks again for all your knowledge, guys. It really helps lots of us out here.
 

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h
Thanks for the info. I think I'll go back for a second "run" this spring. Last time they had it up on the Dyno for about 1 hour or so. I know the numbers can have a lot of variables so they don't matter much. Just nice to know that's all. On another note I got my new Avon 240. Would rather have someone else do it but I guess I'll be changing it myself with all the tire stores closed. I will use Bead Pro tire irons and plastic rim protector shields for my first attempt at changing a tire. I've seen people use baby powder instead of Windex for the lube needed. Any thoughts on which one works better? krashDH mentioned a product called "Ride-On" in a previous post. Probably should use some of that stuff too. Thanks again for all your knowledge, guys. It really helps lots of us out here.
how is it having the 240 over the 200.. you have to change the swing arm stuff like that?
 

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Thanks for the info. I think I'll go back for a second "run" this spring. Last time they had it up on the Dyno for about 1 hour or so. I know the numbers can have a lot of variables so they don't matter much. Just nice to know that's all. On another note I got my new Avon 240. Would rather have someone else do it but I guess I'll be changing it myself with all the tire stores closed. I will use Bead Pro tire irons and plastic rim protector shields for my first attempt at changing a tire. I've seen people use baby powder instead of Windex for the lube needed. Any thoughts on which one works better? krashDH mentioned a product called "Ride-On" in a previous post. Probably should use some of that stuff too. Thanks again for all your knowledge, guys. It really helps lots of us out here.
Out of personal curiosity. what made you decide to go with a 240 over the 200? I've asked a couple of people, and one answer was crazy. I think one guy on here did, and then went back to a 200. Personally I question if I want to increase the unsprung weight that much. Just on looks, I do think it can be cool, and the Fury is a lot about cool!
 

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Out of personal curiosity. what made you decide to go with a 240 over the 200? I've asked a couple of people, and one answer was crazy. I think one guy on here did, and then went back to a 200. Personally I question if I want to increase the unsprung weight that much. Just on looks, I do think it can be cool, and the Fury is a lot about cool!
No one wants a stock factory chopper. We all see the numerous Fury Mods out there to prove that. Bought it brand new for 10 and have receipts for close to that from all the "stuff" I've done/replaced. And spending money is fun! But yeah, mostly just for the cool factor. Before and after shots. And still more Mods to go.....Why not? Plus I've removed more weight than the difference in tires.
 

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Thanks for the info. I think I'll go back for a second "run" this spring. Last time they had it up on the Dyno for about 1 hour or so. I know the numbers can have a lot of variables so they don't matter much. Just nice to know that's all. On another note I got my new Avon 240. Would rather have someone else do it but I guess I'll be changing it myself with all the tire stores closed. I will use Bead Pro tire irons and plastic rim protector shields for my first attempt at changing a tire. I've seen people use baby powder instead of Windex for the lube needed. Any thoughts on which one works better? krashDH mentioned a product called "Ride-On" in a previous post. Probably should use some of that stuff too. Thanks again for all your knowledge, guys. It really helps lots of us out here.
Hey we're all here on the forum to help, that's what it's all about.
Glad you're going to 240...I've been wanting to put one on my stock rim for a while now but I have a hard time swapping with perfectly good tread on mine right now. I will try to wear mine out this summer so I can buy one. I'd like to know your thoughts on it too when you are done. Let us know how installing that thing is too!
That "Ride-On" stuff is awesome. I haven't tested it on a "real world" hole or anything from a nail or screw which is good, but having it self-balance the tire (hydrodynamically they call it) is great.
Out of personal curiosity. what made you decide to go with a 240 over the 200? I've asked a couple of people, and one answer was crazy. I think one guy on here did, and then went back to a 200. Personally I question if I want to increase the unsprung weight that much. Just on looks, I do think it can be cool, and the Fury is a lot about cool!
I'm with you here. I'm sure it provides really no advantage other than the cool factor, which usually plays a big role in our bikes. You may be gaining a little bit of contact patch but I wouldn't think much. I'm sure handling would be very similar.
 

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For me personally, I have never thought going to a 240 on the stock rim was worth the effort as you only gain about 10mm of actual width over the 200 because the rim "sucks the tire in".

I had planned on having the rim widened and notching the swingarm and torque bar and installing a 250/260 tire before my untimely accident.

But there have been a lot of guys on here that have installed the 240 on the stock rim and are quite happy... Bill @460brevill included.
 

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For me personally, I have never thought going to a 240 on the stock rim was worth the effort as you only gain about 10mm of actual width over the 200 because the rim "sucks the tire in".

I had planned on having the rim widened and notching the swingarm and torque bar and installing a 250/260 tire before my untimely accident.

But there have been a lot of guys on here that have installed the 240 on the stock rim and are quite happy... Bill @460brevill included.
For sure. Not sure I want to go through modifying the rim and swing arm. If I was to do that, I'd probably buy a second rim and swing arm so I could do it on my own time and not have down time on the bike. I want to riiiideee!!!
 

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I know a guy that has a rim and swingarm... lol
Oh man don't tempt me. Plus your bike and my bike were the white on black ones...so black rim black swingarm....
 

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Oh man don't tempt me. Plus your bike and my bike were the white on black ones...so black rim black swingarm....
I've looked into widening the rim from it's stock 6 1/4 to 7 inches. Closest place to me I've found is in California and wants $775.00 or so to cut, weld and finish/clean up the welds enough for paint or chrome. Plus shipping costs to and from. Also I hear the cut and weld destroys the bearings and seals, (he said he could remove them or I could) which would all need to be replaced. With specialty tools to seat everything properly. I too thought about buying a second rim for less down time. Then decided it was too big of a project for me so I bought the 240 to be done with it. Low & Mean has a good video explaining the size difference of 240's on different size rims (if their numbers are correct). They say a 240 will fit with a 7 inch rim and a stock swing arm. 250/260 is still tempting for me too. Thou shall not covet thy neighbors bike.......

First rule of owning a bike is: Never let anyone else ride your bike.
Second rule of owning a bike is: Don't ask to ride someone else's bike.
 

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Interesting. My son is a professional welder...
 
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