Exhaust questions?

1877 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by WildBill, Mar 4, 2010

0234

Discussion Starter · Mar 4, 2010

OK, so here I go with my first post...
I am picking up my new Fury on Saturday and am getting the Cobra sweeps to go on it from the dealer.
My question is do I need the Fi2000 with just the pipes if I leave the baffles in? I did a search already and could not find a deffinite answer.

Second question, one dealer told me I should leave the stock pipes on while I break it in? I am not sure why. The only reason I could think of is for the increased backpressure?

Save

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

WildBill

· #2 · Mar 4, 2010 (Edited)

0234 said:
OK, so here I go with my first post...
I am picking up my new Fury on Saturday and am getting the Cobra sweeps to go on it from the dealer.
My question is do I need the Fi2000 with just the pipes if I leave the baffles in? I did a search already and could not find a deffinite answer.

Second question, one dealer told me I should leave the stock pipes on while I break it in? I am not sure why. The only reason I could think of is for the increased backpressure?

This topic is all over this forum,,please read some of the other threads in there tech and performance area,,or go up to search and search this topic, here is a few links that might help, and go up to the new member introduction and post a thread to tell us who u are and where your from and what your buying. thanks and welcome to the forum, I went up to search and typed in "cobra swept pipes" and it gave me everything you are asking. try that

http://www.furyforums.com/forum/fury-tech-performance-chat/2265-opinions-removing-baffles.html

http://www.furyforums.com/forum/fury-tech-performance-chat/1050-removed-baffles-cobra-swepts.html

Save

Clueless

· #3 · Mar 4, 2010

0234 said:
OK, so here I go with my first post...
I am picking up my new Fury on Saturday and am getting the Cobra sweeps to go on it from the dealer.
My question is do I need the Fi2000 with just the pipes if I leave the baffles in? I did a search already and could not find a deffinite answer.

Second question, one dealer told me I should leave the stock pipes on while I break it in? I am not sure why. The only reason I could think of is for the increased backpressure?

Welcome to the forum, I always recommend leaving bikes stock for the first 600-1000, at/after the first service is when I do alot of pipe/intake work on bikes. As far as the Fi, you won't find a definitive answer on here, there is an opposing view to every opinion.

Save

460brevill

· #4 · Mar 4, 2010

i have built quite a few choppers and dont remember useing stock pipes on any of them.as far as break in,if you put me on a chopper i will break it in.

Save

BluFury

· #5 · Mar 4, 2010

460brevill said:
i have built quite a few choppers and dont remember useing stock pipes on any of them.as far as break in,if you put me on a chopper i will break it in.

Very well said , with you all the way

Save

imwright1985

· #6 · Mar 4, 2010

460brevill said:
i have built quite a few choppers and dont remember useing stock pipes on any of them.as far as break in,if you put me on a chopper i will break it in.

its better for the break in to leave stock on, temp differences through the pipes cause the metals in the valves/heads to react differently (look up Precipitation hardening or age hardening) stock exhaust allows more of a controlled environment for this to occur since machines only go sofar then it requirements change on operating conditions, which is why you should vary throttle position, not rev much at beginning and progressively build up to being able to run wide open

Save

bllz321

· #7 · Mar 4, 2010

it sounds like you know your stuff, but most people who can afford and want the new pipes at original purchase. i imagine those same techniques you described will be good for new pipes, are there any other techniques for those that do get new pipes at original purpose, like making shorter runs with the bike at first, then building up milage? just curious

Save

RedspawnSilver

· #8 · Mar 4, 2010

bllz321 said:
it sounds like you know your stuff, but most people who can afford and want the new pipes at original purchase. i imagine those same techniques you described will be good for new pipes, are there any other techniques for those that do get new pipes at original purpose, like making shorter runs with the bike at first, then building up milage? just curious

Yea, that is what I was told as well when I first got the bike, then the pipes...

Save

imwright1985

· #9 · Mar 4, 2010 (Edited)

bllz321 said:
it sounds like you know your stuff, but most people who can afford and want the new pipes at original purchase. i imagine those same techniques you described will be good for new pipes, are there any other techniques for those that do get new pipes at original purpose, like making shorter runs with the bike at first, then building up milage? just curious

its mostly from how hot and how long the temperature differences are. That is why alot of Dragsters run wrapped pipes to help sustain higher temps through the inside of the pipes when not running to allow a more gradual cooling. along with some instances keeping areas outside of the pipes from getting too hot. You want to kinda simulate that gradual cooling. If you look at the stock muffler design it is chambered like a standard car muffler then has a catalatic converter built in on the front side. the cat has a chemical reaction which builds heat in the exhaust gasses so it provides an effect of like a temporary heater element too. Most aftermarket pipes are a straight shot with a glass packed or meshed lining that comes in a certain distance from the walls for a certain length of the tube. So cooler air will flow back through the pipes more rapidly

Pipes arnt hard to put on, and if its like the dealers down here with pipes and cobra FI2000r they raise the cost by about 2k which is way over priced since it will set you back about 1k or less to DIY

Roughly 600 for pipes and about 200-250 for Cobra fi2000 or 260-360 for powercommander

My look into it would be Ride it stock for break in to help insure that everything is ontrack, then while doing that shop the other options rather than just Cobra Swepts like the Fuggin, Roadhouse, Vance & Hines, the other cobras, Samson, and modded options Like i did with my Jardines. Then i would go with either the Cobra FI2000 for the ease of tweaking, or power commander for getting everything set more precisely. It would allow you time to familiarize yourself with the bike and not annoy the neighbors too much, and clearly think out the setup you want

See less See more

Save

460brevill

· #10 · Mar 4, 2010

dealer wouldn't install pipes and comanders if it was going to hurt the engine!!!!! Because they would be responsible...
My dealer told me to do WHATEVER i wanted....it wasnt going to hurt anything as long as it is done properly.

Save

WildBill

· #11 · Mar 4, 2010

460brevill said:
dealer wouldn't install pipes and comanders if it was going to hurt the engine!!!!! Because they would be responsible...
My dealer told me to do WHATEVER i wanted....it wasnt going to hurt anything as long as it is done properly.

I have to agree,,my bike had the cobra swepts and the FI2000 already installed at purchase. It was on showroom floor with pipes/FI2000 and the chromed rims. So if break in was something they needed to do with stock pipes then if I have any issues its on them.

Save

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month