Final Drive Gearbox, etc.
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I agree with you. When I'm "cruising" at 60 - 70 (Heh Heh), I'd like the engine RPM's a bit lower. Is that what you're after as well?
I agree with you. When I'm "cruising" at 60 - 70 (Heh Heh), I'd like the engine RPM's a bit lower. Is that what you're after as well?
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2,152 Posts
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710 Posts
Duuuhhhh
I see. L O W E R Ratio........Better acceleration off the line is what you're after.
I do a lot of highway cruising here in AZ, and would like the RPM's down a tad. I still think it will pull hard through the gears. IMHO.
I see. L O W E R Ratio........Better acceleration off the line is what you're after.
I do a lot of highway cruising here in AZ, and would like the RPM's down a tad. I still think it will pull hard through the gears. IMHO.
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2,152 Posts
You got it!
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2,585 Posts
The VTX1300 has a final of 2.818 (31/11) P/N 41310-MEA-670 (gear set)
The Fury same BUT P/N 41310-MFR-670
The VTX1800 has a final of 3.091 (34/11) P/N 41310-MCH-000
The entire finals are NOT interchangeable Fury to VTX. I know alot of 1800 riders use the 1300 final to reduce the RPMs on the highway and some VTX1300 use the 1800 final for low end power, I don't know what is diff about the gear sets. The Fury specific p/n's all have "MFR"
in the center. There is a guy on the VTX board that works alot with the finals, rebuilding and chroming them, you might email him and he may know the diff in the gears,
The Fury same BUT P/N 41310-MFR-670
The VTX1800 has a final of 3.091 (34/11) P/N 41310-MCH-000
The entire finals are NOT interchangeable Fury to VTX. I know alot of 1800 riders use the 1300 final to reduce the RPMs on the highway and some VTX1300 use the 1800 final for low end power, I don't know what is diff about the gear sets. The Fury specific p/n's all have "MFR"
in the center. There is a guy on the VTX board that works alot with the finals, rebuilding and chroming them, you might email him and he may know the diff in the gears,
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2,585 Posts
FYI The rear wheels drive flanges on the VTX and the Fury are the same also p/n 42630-MCH-000. The Fury has a larger dia axle bolt, I put a VTX wheel on mine last week, the axle would not go thru, in case you want to try a smaller dia. wheel, (the VTX 1300 is 15", the 1800 is 16")
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53 Posts
Sorry to Necro an old thread, but my question is relevant to the threads topic.
So from reading this thread, if I understand correctly, if you swap to a vtx1800 rear end and tire you could have better acceleration? Since I raised my rev limiter to 6000 I would gain back the 100mph limit but would get there faster, so long as I could find a 16 tire tall enough to make up the difference in size?
Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm just trying to learn.
Edit: or maybe a spacer for the Fury wheel with the smaller bolt of the 1800.
So from reading this thread, if I understand correctly, if you swap to a vtx1800 rear end and tire you could have better acceleration? Since I raised my rev limiter to 6000 I would gain back the 100mph limit but would get there faster, so long as I could find a 16 tire tall enough to make up the difference in size?
Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm just trying to learn.
Edit: or maybe a spacer for the Fury wheel with the smaller bolt of the 1800.
I'm probably not in the right place, but here goes. I'm new to the forum, Haven't ridden in 30 years, got myself a Fury for my 75th (2012) I'm taking things apart to get chromed, everything I can! I'm trying to figure how to get the Differential out, was going to chrome it, but ordered paint to paint it instead. I am down to diff hanging on frame by one bolt, with driveshaft still in. Stuck, how do I get it out in one piece? Information would be much appreciated.
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You need to take it apart. However you can get a chrome cover for the final drive now. Naturally it came out after I chromed my final drive. Don't paint the final drive as it never looks any good and don't forget to get the dust ring chromed or get an aftermarket chrome one.
You can get the final drive cover here:
You can get the final drive cover here:
I have seen the chrome cover advertised before. Owner of advertiser told me it was not very good and I probably wouldn't like it. I was going to have it chromed, but decided the cost of tearing the diff completely apart, and replacing all bearings etc. plus chroming cost would be too much. I ordered the correct paint, base, and clear and have pretty much decided to paint it. Looking at the cover again, I think I might just waste the money and order one, can't hurt. Someone mentioned getting a chrome dust cover? I haven't seen one. Any idea where, or if this available? I purchased this 2012 Fury used in September, and like most of us have already far exceeded the value. LOL I'm just trying to decide now how difficult it will be to get the diff separated from the u-joint. This is my first time working on a motorcycle, and I've found it a bit intimidating. Thank you for your response.
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You can reuse the bearings, you just need to replace a few seals. Not that bad of a job really and the result it worth it. I can't remember what thread it was in but if you search for a chrome dust cover you should find it. Narrow your search to between 2010 and 2012. I went the other way and had my stock dust ring chromed. I think it was about $70 from memory. The company who did it for me in Santa Ana closed down but you could check with my new chromer L&M chrome also in Santa Ana CA. If you want the contact details of the person I deal with let me know and I'll post it here.
Thank you very much. I would appreciate the information. I went ahead and ordered the chrome cover for the diff, thought I'd at least give it a shot. Chrome dust cover would be really nice. I'm having the wheels chromed, the kickstand, the calipers and brackets, sway bar I guess it is, and they are polishing the rotors. I have the spike air cleaner set-up in chrome, and managed to get the left side chrome cover to match with the matching spike kit. Now I need to find out what to get for filters to replace the ones on it, I have 1 black and 1 brown. Blue would be great. The bike also has an FSD exhaust (love it) Chin spoiler with nice metal cover, and some other chrome touches. The seat is a custom made solo blue alligator design with FURY embroidered on the back of it in the right script. The bike is in pieces all over one side of my garage right now. I will post pictures as soon as I get everything back and put together. I'm looking for something different in grips and pedals. I want to have it air brushed with something on tank and some colors of real fire on the fenders and chin spoiler. I also just put the lowering shock spring from Low and Mean on it. I want different mirrors and some sort of mini chrome turn signals. I like the looks of the two led strips under the fender, but I really don't think it would be safe. Any leads or suggestions from anyone would be GREAT.
Sounds like you’re running in the same direction as most of us would be! Have fun brah!!!
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Congratulations on the ride, it sounds like you started with a great bike and are only making it better. One of the things we tend to appreciate is the money we save on buying the bike goes right into parts; H-D guys can't understand how we can put $20K into a $10K bike when they're putting $40K into a $30K bike, plus maintenance costs.
If you're going that far you might want to skip the lowering spring and install an air suspension.
LED strips fit under the fenders depending on the tire size/shape. Your suspension should bottom before the tire hits the LEDs, if not put a bumper on the shock so it does.
If you're going that far you might want to skip the lowering spring and install an air suspension.
LED strips fit under the fenders depending on the tire size/shape. Your suspension should bottom before the tire hits the LEDs, if not put a bumper on the shock so it does.
I saw the air suspension kit AFTER I had paid a chunk for the lowering spring and installed it. For the difference, I would have probably went the air. Oh well, only money. I might decide to change. I'm leery of the LED strips being visible enough, even though I think they look great. I've also read quite a bit about the lights failing in small sections rather quickly.
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933 Posts
It depends on where you get the leds from. There are some cheap knockoffs on ebay. Chromeglow is an excellent source. The leds are visible in all light sources and I haven't had any go bad in 10 years. And there's always raw designs power puc wheel lighting if you're looking to light the chrome up.
OK, You talked me into it. What else do I need for the install? Electric has always been my downfall (except in the house). I understand I need load equalizers? Something inexpensive I hope. I went to Chromeglow and already have the double row light in my cart. Just waiting to hear your thoughts on anything else I should get from them.
Thanks
Greg
May all your children be born stark staring naked!!!!
Thanks
Greg
May all your children be born stark staring naked!!!!
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1,119 Posts
Resell the lowering spring if/when you go air suspension.. I'm sure there is a member here that would buy it..
I've seen the same thing you mentioned about led strips failing in sections.. Just make sure it's a quality led and that shouldn't be a problem. The cheaper ones made in china are the failure culprits...
Sounds like you're building a great ride and are making it your own!
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