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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a question for you techs. I am putting the Final Drive back on the bike. I am getting about a 1/4 inch or so of left to right play in it after tightening up the LAYOUT BOLT. I have tapped the threads and all is well. The bolt is tightened to specs but does not seat against the swingarm. The swing arm and bolt move together left and right. Is this bolt just for alignment purposes to keep the Final Drive straight. It is driving me crazy.
Thanks in advance for the help, Stan
 

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Hey man, mine is the same way. I believe it is just to aline. My service manual doesn't say anyhting about it, so I believe that is the way it is supposed to be.
 

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That is a shoulder bolt and if it is torqued it is seated against the final. This bike has a "floating final drive" as you will notice when you put the axle back in and it may not appear lined up at first. I am not sure about the purpose of the bolt, it looks to me that it keeps the final from moving fore and aft, or it may just be there to hold the final until you get the axle in, the torque arm keeps it from rotating
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks gentleman for the help. Its nice to be able to reach out when help is needed. Thanks
 

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That is a shoulder bolt and if it is torqued it is seated against the final. This bike has a "floating final drive" as you will notice when you put the axle back in and it may not appear lined up at first. I am not sure about the purpose of the bolt, it looks to me that it keeps the final from moving fore and aft, or it may just be there to hold the final until you get the axle in, the torque arm keeps it from rotating
Clueless to the rescue again. I've been reinstalling my final drive today and encountered this 'float' which didn't seem right to me. Called the local Honda service department and they said I shouldn't have any float but I'm not surprised that they were wrong (again). Now I can go install the thing before the Texan's game starts.
 

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Rubber Drive shaft cover

Speaking of putting the Final Drive Back in. Do you guys know the little rubber Black Cover that is used to "cover" the Drive shaft. I'm trying to re-install that since I completely removed it earlier. So... with that being said... I clearly should not have completely removed it.

But anyway...

How do you put the "teats" of the rubber cover back in the Swingarm?
 

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Speaking of putting the Final Drive Back in. Do you guys know the little rubber Black Cover that is used to "cover" the Drive shaft. I'm trying to re-install that since I completely removed it earlier. So... with that being said... I clearly should not have completely removed it.

But anyway...

How do you put the "teats" of the rubber cover back in the Swingarm?
A little windex worked for me.
 

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Speaking of putting the Final Drive Back in. Do you guys know the little rubber Black Cover that is used to "cover" the Drive shaft. I'm trying to re-install that since I completely removed it earlier. So... with that being said... I clearly should not have completely removed it.

But anyway...

How do you put the "teats" of the rubber cover back in the Swingarm?
You can actually reach in by going behind on the backside before you put the two allen bolts in and use some needle nose to guide them through. Do the "teats" (lol) first before the bolts is what I am saying. Start them through and help them pop out the inside with a gentle pull. That rubber is pretty tough, they shouldn't tear unless you get too rough. then if your careful, you can keep them in while you turn it inline for the bolt holes to line up.
 

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Sorry Furious84
Just read between the lines and this is what my twisted mind read:eek:

my mind is in the gutter:eek:


You can actually reach in by going behind on the backside Do the "teats" (lol) first before the bolts is what I am saying. they shouldn't tear unless you get too rough. then if your careful, you can keep them
NEVER be too rough with teats:eek:

hope you got that rubber piece on BK.

okay really in the gutter now lol

sorry for hijacking this important thread:eek:
need another beer.
 

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then this will top off your gutter thoughts.

I was gonna suggest lube! Mw personally, i spit on mine to get the lil bastard in cause i didnt want to walk to the basement for lube.
:D
 

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This bike has a "floating final drive" as you will notice when you put the axle back in and it may not appear lined up at first.
 

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interchangabity?

Hi guys. First off i dont have a fury, Im from V4musclebike.com. my question is does anyone know if the rear wheel drive spline on the fury is the same as the rear wheel drive spline on an 84 vf700 magna? i do know the magna drive spline has six posts that mate to the wheel itself. but i havent been able to find specs on either spline or even a picture of the fury drive spline. reason im asking is i like the look of a wide rear tire( wider than stock) and if the drive spline from the fury is the same as my magna's, then all i have to do is get the rear wheel and mod the swing arm to fit the tire. any ideas guys? :confused:
 

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DarkSoul, you can save yourself a bit of head scratching if you just compare your hub to a stock Fury on the showroom floor. Measure the width of both rotating hub assemblys from the edge of the dust ring to the center line of the wheel (where the spokes are). They must be the same or your bike would be pooched 'cause it would dog-track with the wheel off the center-line of the chassis. Even though you can "mod" your swingarm, the drive-shaft and final drive are not 'adjustable' on the lateral plane. If your measurements are the same then we can look into matching splines ;).

Another point of concern is the distance between the widest part of your 130/90-16 tire and the actual rotating driveshaft. You would need about 1½" of daylight in there to fit the 200 mm Dunlop with about ¼" of clearance. One bit of good news I see is that they are the same diameter.

If you have the clearances and the $ a more straightforward option would be to send your 16x3" wheel to Kosman to be widened to 5½" rim and then mount a 200/60R16 tire which is about the same as your stock 26" tire diameter. Would save a lot of engineering headaches. If you don't have the clearances go for a 180/70R16 on a 5" wide rim.
 

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thanks for that, it helped alot. and in concer to the angles on the shaft, ive also recently found a modified goldwing with a 300 rear tire. the swing are and shaft were custom made using suburu joints for the shaft. albeit im not engineer like the builder of the wing was, but i do have mechanical kno how and im decent at fabrication. another option i was looking at would be to just replace the entire rear assemby from my bike with the assembly from the rear of the fury. as long as the distance between the frame was the same, or close and the splines on the shaft coming out of the motor matched up, it seems that would be a better option, seeing as how that arm is alrdy built for that tire and breaking set up
 

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Thanks again senor. once i tear into the heads on my engine and see if the cams are still at the point of saving with an oil mod( V4's had oiling problems to the head's) i will proceed with the measurements to see if it is even possible. if it ends up being something that can be done, i will post pics on here and on my page at the V4muscle site. Thanks again
 
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