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Ok, I am sure its been asked before, but all I can find is generic videos that are not full length or very detailed. I have done all disassembly and reassembly and installation of my sumo-x kit and have not trouble with mechanics, but I have never disassembled forks or reassembled for that matter either. Can anyone provide me with a pdf or something via email from the honda manual and would that be sufficient for a first-timer? Please help me here, I am chroming the lowers and really don't want to have to ship entire forks = much bigger box= more money. All help is greatly appreciated. Also a list of materials needed for reassembly would be much appreciated.
 

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Loosen the left side pinch bolts (6mm allen), then loosen the axle bolt, (22mm socket), loosen the right pinch bolts. Now loosen the top fork pinch bolts (I think this is also 6mm allen), and loosen the top fork caps (17mm socket) (I like to loosen the bolts with the bike on the floor, you can put it on the jack first) Now put the bike on a stand or jack to get the front wheel off the ground, secure the bike. Remove the axle bolt and axle from the forks, remove wheel. Since the bike will be apart for awhile, put the axle, spacers and bolt back in wheel. Remove the brake caliper (12mm socket) and bolt holding brake line on, tie the caliper up so there is no strain on the hose. Remove the fender, (I think those are 10mm) Now loosen the lower tree bolts, and slide the forks down and out of the trees. Right side first ,If you have a vice with soft jaws, or some wood, you can clamp the lower in the vice, be very careful, and with a long 6mm allen, tee handled or socket, loosen the allen screw in the bottom. I use an impact driver and an allen, do not remove it or the stinky fluid will come out. Once the allen is loose, take off the fork cap, it is under pressure from the spring, remove the spacer, washer and spring, dump the fluid out into a pan, pump the fork a few times to work it all out. now remove the allen out of the bottom, using a small screw driver, work the seal up, slide it up and off. Look down the tube and you will see a metal keeper, using the small screw driver again work the wire up and remove. Now with one hand on the fork and one on the lower, pull them vigorously using the fork tube as a slide hammer probably have to do this many times, and the seal will come up and you can separate the tube from the lower. At this point you are ready to ship the lower, you do not need to take the tube, slider and bushing apart. The left is a little different, when you remove the fork cap, it is attached to the dampener, you need to work a 14mm open end wrench in to hold the nut and unscrew the cap from the rod, there is a spring stopper next right under the nut, remove this, then the spacer, washer and spring and the rest is the same. Hope this helps, but you should get a manual, it will be very helpful in the future. Set everything on a clean work bench in the order you took it apart, have LOTS of rags ready. Use new fork oil, you will need 2qts, 10wt, and depending on miles, you may want new seals, when you put them in, make sure the man name/numbers are UP. Hope this helps, pm me if you need anymore or torque specs, quantity of oil etc.
 

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Reassemble

Right side, insert the fork tube and assembly into the lower, apply thread lock to the lower bolt, use the copper seal thread the lower bolt in and torque to 15 lbs-ft. (if the tube turns, install the spring and spacer, and fork cap then torque bolt remove after torquing). Lube the seal, use fork oil, and slide it down the fork tube to the lower, make sure the manufacturers numbers are up, drive the seal in, if you don't have a seal driver, you can use a piece of PVC tubing. The seal is driven in till the stopper groove is visible, put the stopper ring in, make sure it seats all the way around. Lube the dust seal and install it, push it in by hand. Fill with fork oil (right side 712 cc / 24.1 oz left side 682 cc / 23.1 oz) compress the fork several times to remove air, then with the fork fully compressed, measure from the top, the level should be 5.2 in / 131mm from top. Install spring (tapered end down) washer, then spacer, reinstall fork cap. Left is pretty much same, when filling fork pump the dampener rod up and down also to remove air, measure form top 4.7 in / 119mm. Install spring, washer, spacer, and spring stopper, tighten the fork cap to rod to 15 lb-ft. Then screw the fork cap on. Install the tubes into the trees, align the top of the tube with the top of the tree, loosely tighten the top pinch bolt, Tighten the lower pinch bolt to 20 lb-ft, then the upper pinch bolt to 20 lb-ft, then the fork cap to 16 lb-ft. Reinstall the brake caliper, use a drop of thread lock on bolts and tighten to23 lb-ft. Install wheel/tire with spacers between forks, if you did not touch the front brake lever, the rotor will slip right into caliper, if you did you will need to spread the pads. Lube the axle with light coat of grease, slide it in from the right side until it is all the way in, loosely tighten the right side pinch bolts. Install and tighten the axle bolt. At this point I let the bike back down to the ground. Torque the axle bolt to 47lb-ft, and the left pinch bolts to 16 lbs-ft. Loosen the right pinch bolts, get on the bike, grab the front brake and bounce the front 2-3 times, then torque the right pinch bolts to 16 lbs-ft. Honda recommends you use new seal washers (lower fork bolt) and new bolts on the brake caliper, I don't usually do that, I reuse the originals. PM me any ??s
 

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Many thanks for the how to. With your instructions and my Honda manual I feel confident to do this myself when I get my lower forks chromed. Much appreciated.:)
 

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THis is the one thing that i couldnt do myself. I have no table vise, so i had a local mechanic do it. I paid $100 for both forks, not counting the cost of new seals and fluid.
 

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THis is the one thing that i couldnt do myself. I have no table vise, so i had a local mechanic do it. I paid $100 for both forks, not counting the cost of new seals and fluid.
You don't really NEED a vice, and I don't like to use it, it is easy to scar a lower with one, I set the top of the fork tube on a rubber mat and use my impact driver (not wrench) on the lower bolt. I also have an old lower tree off an 1800 Goldwing that I do clamp in the vice and use as a tube clamp. (the 1800 and the Fury have the same size tubes) with the number of trees being changed, anyone who thinks they might be working on Fury forks might look into picking up a set cheap to clamp into a vice.
 

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Honestly i did try and to break the bottom bolt on one of the tubes .. only to strip it! I then played dumb when the mechanic asked if i knew how it became stripped.:D
 

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I know this is probably a stupid question but can't you leave the forks in the triple trees and just remove the lowers if you can get the bike high enough to slide the lowers off from the bottom?
 

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I know this is probably a stupid question but can't you leave the forks in the triple trees and just remove the lowers if you can get the bike high enough to slide the lowers off from the bottom?
It would be difficult to drive the seals back in, unless you had a 2 pc seal driver, plus you really, in most cases, want to flush out the old oil. Probably would be more difficult, but doable.
 

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Master Sensei Clueless!

What about the damper rod lock nut on the left fork?? The shop manual shows a photo of 2 box wrenches in use. One is holding the fork cap in place after being threaded back onto the damper. The other is being used to torque down the damper rod lock nut to 15lb-ft.
Can you leave the fork cap off and use a long socket to torque down the lock nut? Or the whole purpose of re-threading it on the damper is to keep the damper from turning?
If you can't use the socket method and the traditional open/box wrench is the only way to tighten down the lock nut..how the hell do you torque to 15 lb-ft. with such a tool?? Motion-pro has a torque wrench adapter (Adjustable Torque Wrench Adapter, 08-0380 - Motion Pro).

Thank you for confirming a nice classic piece of PVC can smack the new seals in. Certainly cheaper than the expensive fork seal driver. Which size pipe works on these forks? I imagine for a 45MM driver a...gee man my brain doesn't work like that...size pipe would be great!?

Thanks for sharing your wisdom!

Shout out here for these guys..pretty smart way to skip the use of a vise!
 

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Master Sensei Clueless!

What about the damper rod lock nut on the left fork?? The shop manual shows a photo of 2 box wrenches in use. One is holding the fork cap in place after being threaded back onto the damper. The other is being used to torque down the damper rod lock nut to 15lb-ft.
Can you leave the fork cap off and use a long socket to torque down the lock nut? Or the whole purpose of re-threading it on the damper is to keep the damper from turning?
If you can't use the socket method and the traditional open/box wrench is the only way to tighten down the lock nut..how the hell do you torque to 15 lb-ft. with such a tool?? Motion-pro has a torque wrench adapter (Adjustable Torque Wrench Adapter, 08-0380 - Motion Pro).

Thank you for confirming a nice classic piece of PVC can smack the new seals in. Certainly cheaper than the expensive fork seal driver. Which size pipe works on these forks? I imagine for a 45MM driver a...gee man my brain doesn't work like that...size pipe would be great!?

Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
I hope I caught you in time before starting your project.

I did the LS fork seal replacement couple months ago and was going to post a complete walk through at the time. Except my Android Note 9 had some glitches editing on forum but has since been fixed.

I don't like the procedure shown on the video.

A : loosen the upper fork clamp and just break loose the cap.

B: Completely remove fender to avoid damage when reinstalling fork leg.

C: Break loose 6mm damper bolt and then loosen rest of triple clamp and remove fork leg.

D: While wearing old clothes remove cap and use a thin 14mm to disconnect damper remove spring and plunge out fork oil.

NOTE: it's been a while so I may be slightly off in the order.

E: The bad news is there is no 45mm PVC pipe for installing the seals...good news the fitting for connecting 1 1/2 " pipe works perfect !

I used silicone spray on outside of seal and
used the fitting as a slidehammer and it worked perfectly !

I would recommend going ahead and install both new bushings since they are inexpensive and easy to install while you have it apart.

The picture shows the PVC fitting and the longer 6mm hex wrench I used to get up into the fork leg.

I did not use a torque wrench on the 14mm nut...I just made it good and tight.

Hope this helps, did this on the fly and by memory.
20201119_175911.jpg
 
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