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try 2-4-6 and bump the red pot as needed,one click at a time.
 

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richard
897 is going to start killing plugs and possibly wash the pistons.be careful.
I contacted Mike at Cobra about my settings just to be on the safe side. Here is his response...

"If your bike runs well, pulls nice and cruises nice you have nothing to worry about. Go ride and enjoy your bike. Thanks for asking Cobra, ride safe."
 

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I contacted Mike at Cobra about my settings just to be on the safe side. Here is his response...

"If your bike runs well, pulls nice and cruises nice you have nothing to worry about. Go ride and enjoy your bike. Thanks for asking Cobra, ride safe."
sounds good to me.what kind of mpg are you getting.
 

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sounds good to me.what kind of mpg are you getting.
I have posted this before and dont recall exactly. I think my low fuel light comes on around 115-120. The mileage has not dropped significantly. If memory serves, I was getting about what everyone else was getting. I do remember some saying their mileage went thru the toilet.
 

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I have posted this before and dont recall exactly. I think my low fuel light comes on around 115-120. The mileage has not dropped significantly. If memory serves, I was getting about what everyone else was getting. I do remember some saying their mileage went thru the toilet.
yea mine is still hitting 120-125.i had a little trouble with the red pot but thats all straight now.with all the snow it is time to paint and shine.keep the rubber on the ground.
 

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Not sure if you were asking me Richard, but I'm running Cobra Swepts and S&S intake. I actually haven't gotten around to fooling around with it yet...nothing but Snow and salt everywhere here right now!
 

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All;

Got a chance to evaluate my newly-installed Cobra Fi2000r fuel controller, under full-spectrum, real-world conditions today. I was going to do it yesterday, but I only made it to the end of the block; it was 37º out there! Today, it warmed-up to the low 40's so I went for it. My observations, are as follows:

First, it came from the factory with the pots set at 1, 2, and 0 (left-to-right), corresponding to 1 for the low-speed, 2 for the mid-range, and 0 for the "main Jet" or high-end. "0" means that no fuel is being added to the baseline ECU map for that particular sector. I arbitrarily reset the 0 high-end to 1, based on nothing more than the fact that I'm running a gutted muffler. Ambient conditions were 4800 feet of altitude and 42º F. I have 1100+ miles on the bike, so she's still a little tight, though I can feel her loosening-up perceptively these last few times out of the barn.

It now starts immediately and doesn't require the more usual 2-or-3 stabs at the starter button before it stays lit, and it now goes immediately to a "high-idle" condition, where it stays, at a smooth, steady RPM for 2-to-3 minutes before it starts dropping off (as it warms up), ending up at a smooth, steady low-rpm lope. Prior to now, it would start and then go into a surging, up-and-down mode for several minutes before finally settling into a steady idle. Nice! Whacking the throttle, in neutral, to WFO from an idle, now begets an instant, no-lag response, whereas there was a noticeable hesitation before. OK, now for the open road.

After "putting" out of my neighborhood, to avoid triggering the rath and ire of my neighbors, I got onto the country road that borders my area and I whacked it: WOW! What a difference! The improvement in acceleration is very noticeable, all the way up to 70 and 80 MPH (I won't take it much beyond 80 'til I get a some more miles on it). Rolling-on in top gear from ~60 to ~80 doesn't "feel" much different than before, but my (by then) half-frozen, un-calibrated ass dyno is going to need a few more runs to decide whether or not there is any improvement in the top-end. I might have inadvertently richened it up too much by resetting the controller high-end from 0 to 1 (maybe the factory had it right to begin with?). Time and more fiddling with it will tell.

In summary then, based strictly on this one, 20-mile, seat-of-my-pants feed-back road test, I'm impressed. I'll have to wait 'til my Air/Fuel Ratio analyzer gets here to fine-tune the controller, and I probably won't do that 'til I get the new induction system bolted on. For now, the addition of the fuel controller seems like it was a good idea.

Cheers
Ok so I have a 2019 fury and just purchased this fuel processor. Haven’t installed it yet and I’m doing some research on how I should be tuning it. Also have full cobra exhaust, straight pipes, and a cobra power flow intake. Any suggestions on how to tune it?
 

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My suggestion is: DON'T.

If you read this thread and are still asking how to tune your bike you should read other threads until what you're doing becomes crystal clear. There are tuner threads with T-tap info, pros/cons/pitfalls, etc. There's much more to this than just buying a tuner and twisting some dials, and it's better you stay on the road than accidentally put your bike in the shop.

If you're not up to investing the time and resources into the do-it-yourself process it's okay, read the Holy Grail thread and send your ECU to Don, it'll get you what you want for less time/money and be a fast/safe path to follow. A person really should be somewhat educated and know what's going on with their engine before starting down the custom tuning path and learning by trial and error.

If you're serious about custom tuning, more power to you. I suggest learning everything you can before doing anything, because it'll save you a lot of frustration and money--unless you're one of those lucky people who can't do anything wrong, and there are a few people like that out there. I don't know how they do it, I can't do much of anything less than twice....
 

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If you're not up to investing the time and resources into the do-it-yourself process it's okay, read the Holy Grail thread and send your ECU to Don, it'll get you what you want for less time/money and be a fast/safe path to follow.
Question on tuner subject. Cobra Fi2000 Power Pro vs The Holy Grail ECU Flash.

The Power Pro sounds to good to be true. Plug and play, it will do everything perfectly no matter what combination of parts are installed.

Guhl ECU Flash will be the most tantalizing thing to have done since I lost my virginity. As described on threads it almost has the ability to transport you into a time warp.

I have read threads pro and con, on this forum and other places, about both options and have yet to make a decision on what I will do. But time is ticking.

Why is one choice better than the other?
 

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Hopefully one day my path will be enlightened and I will be able to see the choice I need to make.
238106
 
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Question on tuner subject. Cobra Fi2000 Power Pro vs The Holy Grail ECU Flash.

The Power Pro sounds to good to be true. Plug and play, it will do everything perfectly no matter what combination of parts are installed.

Guhl ECU Flash will be the most tantalizing thing to have done since I lost my virginity. As described on threads it almost has the ability to transport you into a time warp.

I have read threads pro and con, on this forum and other places, about both options and have yet to make a decision on what I will do. But time is ticking.

Why is one choice better than the other?
For myself, I chose the reflash because I didn't want a 'piggyback' fuel controller that was working against the ECU in order to achieve something. Also I didn't want to alter the wiring in order to install it.
 

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For myself, I chose the reflash because I didn't want a 'piggyback' fuel controller that was working against the ECU in order to achieve something. Also I didn't want to alter the wiring in order to install it.
Good answer, thanks
 
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Question on tuner subject. Cobra Fi2000 Power Pro vs The Holy Grail ECU Flash.

The Power Pro sounds to good to be true. Plug and play, it will do everything perfectly no matter what combination of parts are installed.

Guhl ECU Flash will be the most tantalizing thing to have done since I lost my virginity. As described on threads it almost has the ability to transport you into a time warp.

I have read threads pro and con, on this forum and other places, about both options and have yet to make a decision on what I will do. But time is ticking.

Why is one choice better than the other?
Both the PowrPro and reflash work as advertised. I've been lucky enough to ride bikes with both and they do exactly what you expect. Personally I went for the PowrPro and it works fine for me, plus sending my ECU to the US and back would take my bike off the road for 4 to 6 weeks.

If you change things around a lot then the PowrPro would be more convenient as you would not have to take things apart and send the ECU off. Then again after I got my exhaust sounding "good" and my spike air cleaner on I have not changed anything so maybe the removing and refitting of the ECU would not be a big deal.

You might be able to get a used PowrPro cheap from a forum member who did the reflash and has a PowrPro laying around the garage. In which case the cost difference would make the decision for you.
 

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Good answer, thanks
 
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What Mac said about getting a used controller for the time being while upgrades are in progress is the route I went. Granted its not the pro (got the fi2000 with pots) but it still helps being able to make adjustments as I make changes to the bike. Once everything is the way I want it, the ECU will get flashed.
 

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So the desired result is to eventually get to the ECU Flash. Good answer, thanks.
 

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Many reflash threads address the differences.

 
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