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Discussion Starter #24
Well NMU...I'm not clueless (at least not here on the Forum) but in the pic you will see the fuel line coming down from the tank location and I would thing that splicing an in-line filter in the space just below the seat is the only logical place. I think it is a 5/16" line (don't know...may be metric) but remember there are two lines and you must put the filter in the feed line that goes to the quick connect on the pump.
 

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Jim, thanks for going the extra mile and doing the write up with pics. Class Act ! See ya in May !
 

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question: will adding an additional fuel filter change the flow specs at all?
sounds like you'd be adding one more thing in the fuel flow that the fuel pump isn't designed to handle.

that's my amateurish two cents worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Good question Skap..... The fuel feed to the pump is 'Free flow' so I assume as long as the filter is not clogged there would be no problem.

If I were going to add an in-line filter, I would get quick connect ends from a marine store that stop the flow from the tank when disconnected so it would make it very easy to change the in-line filter and I would change it every time I changed oil. I believe there is plenty of room between the split of the backbone to install this filter changing system.

I would think that if the filter were clogged and the fuel pump was starving for gas, there would be a noticable hesitation when you throttle up giving you the head's up that there is a flow problem.
 

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Painter, My 2010 Fury starved for fuel yesterday while on a ride, the more gas I gave it the worse it ran. I pulled over, not turning the bike off, then started back riding with no issues. Rode about another 75 miles with no issues, any suggestions?
 

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Painter, My 2010 Fury starved for fuel yesterday while on a ride, the more gas I gave it the worse it ran. I pulled over, not turning the bike off, then started back riding with no issues. Rode about another 75 miles with no issues, any suggestions?
Painter hasn't been on here in a while... This is a very old thread.... It is great that you are using the search button but you will have better results by starting your own new thread and giving as much info and details as possible.
 

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that white stuff and black specs were the exact thing I found in mine when I removed it.....btw, I didn't remove the tire....just loosened the doololly on the right and wiggled the pump free and out.....yeah, I know, I'm a technical genius.....:D:D:D:eek:
that white stuff and black specs were the exact thing I found in mine when I removed it.....btw, I didn't remove the tire....just loosened the doololly on the right and wiggled the pump free and out.....yeah, I know, I'm a technical genius.....:D:D:D:eek:
 

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I'm about to get started with mine.
Stupid question incoming....
Is the fuel filter inside the pump? Or is it outside somewhere? I bought an OEM pump on ebay, came in a Honda bag. I'm wondering if its inside there, or when i pull the pump out will there be one mounted somewhere on it?
 

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Found a diagram and answered my own question.

Just an FYI, I was able to get it out of the side of the bike with some wiggling. The hardest part seems to be getting that little nipple on the bottom in the rubber seat. Sill working at this.

To get it out and the new one almost in has been about an hour. Didnt remove the tank, didnt remove the shock, didnt remove the fender, didnt remove the back wheel. Just the side panel and the fuse box that pops out.
 

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I'm about to get started with mine.
Stupid question incoming....
Is the fuel filter inside the pump? Or is it outside somewhere? I bought an OEM pump on ebay, came in a Honda bag. I'm wondering if its inside there, or when i pull the pump out will there be one mounted somewhere on it?
no such thing as a stupid question.
 

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Painter, My 2010 Fury starved for fuel yesterday while on a ride, the more gas I gave it the worse it ran. I pulled over, not turning the bike off, then started back riding with no issues. Rode about another 75 miles with no issues, any suggestions?
i would change the entire fuel pump assembly(not just the filter) and the updated model. I also have a 2010. new pump is 129. and the filter kit is like 50. I got my pump assembly off bike bandit.com. i found they have little things you cant find anywhere
 

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Pic # 1 Remove left side panel and the pump is nessled in an area and virtually impossible to access for anyone with big hands!!!
Pic #2 I removed the rear seat and rear fender
Pic #3 I then removed the rear wheel
Pic # 4 Here's the mono shock that also must be removed.
Pic # 5 Shock removed and now you can see and easily access the pump!
Ha, you call that clogged ? Here is one I just did.
Do you have a tool list for this project? I find myself in the position where I have to replace mine, but no longer have the comfort of my own garage and will have to travel about 30 minutes for use of one. I'm hoping to have everything that I need in order to get the job done as he has all standard tools, so I need to bring the metric ones...
 

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Tools used and pix of it coming out.
I unsnapped the fuse box and removed the seat for good visibility.

Fired right up!
What were the sockets and combination wrench that you used? I would definitely prefer to not have to disassemble the whole bike as was mentioned in the earlier posts...

Sent from my H8416 using Tapatalk
 

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ok, I def should have taken pics of this cause I could have done a really nice write-up / how-to of the process.

But, from what I recall using from memory, was:
-Ratchet + 10mm socket
-6mm T-handle allen
-10mm ratcheting box wrench
-2x vise grips
-long needle nose pliers
-2x long flat head screw drivers

Rough Process -

1) remove both plasti-chrome rear covers
2) remove seat with 6mm allen
3) use socket to remove bolts holding rear-spring tensioner dial and let hang
4) use screwdriver to release fuse box and let hang
5) use screwdriver + hands to unclip the nearby electrical dongles
6) use vice grips to pinch off gas lines to the fuel pump then use pliers to compress hose springs so that you can lift the hoses off the nipples. You may need to rotate the springs to get good purchase with your pliers.
7) remove electrical dongle.
8) struggle for 20 minutes to get the "green clip" to release on the fuel line. I had to use both screwdrivers pressing in opposite directions to "squeeze" the clip to get it to come off.
9) remove the two 10mm bolts holding the pump in place with the ratcheting box wrench. I found it easier to do this from the "driver side" of the bike.
10) rotate the L-bracket with the plasti-chrome holder grommet out of the way and remove the fuel pump. It took me a good bit of head scratching before figuring this part out as there seemed to be no way the pump was going to squeeze through this hole.
11) remove mounting grommets from old pump and install in the new one.
12) put new pump in and line up the mounting bolts. This will take some finagling but will also line up the nipple at the bottom of the pump.
13) put the green retention clip into the fuel line hose and install on the pump, along with the electrical dongle.
14) you'll notice your fuel lines will be a slightly different diameter, corresponding to the slightly different sized nipples on the pump. Big on big, small on small. Release vice grips, you should start to hear a bubbling as the fuel fills the pump.
15) reinstall electrical dongles and re-mount the rear spring tensioner. Then re-mount the fuse box.
16) put the key in the ignition, turn it on, and then flip your cut-off switch to run. You should not only hear the pump whirring but should notice your check engine light turn off after 1-2 seconds. If you hear this, great, everything has gone well so far. If you don't, re-check your electrical connections and make sure they are all fully seated.
17) turn cutoff switch (CUS) back off, wait a few seconds, then back on. Repeat 3 more times, then press your ignition button to fire'er up.
18) If she turns over and fires up and stays running, congratulations, you've successfully installed the new pump! Re-assemble the seat and covers.
19) Profit.
 
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