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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Fury Handlebars-Options-Ideas-Solutions

Wooden Horse / Boblvl, I have been thinking the same as you on just slightly tweaking the stock fury bars. I read everyone's posts from the beginning and realize everyone has different tastes in what they want. I have 2" risers,with 1 1/2"of pullback (these are not Cannellas- but there competitor-they were on bike when I bought it last year). I have a mustang seat with removable backrest and would still like those bars back just a inch or so, and the bars slightly angled down. I read about the guy who completely made a new set for his fury and likes them. It was a lot of work-time-money-to get what he wanted, but it worked for him, and they are cool. So I am going to try to figure out how to tweak my bars a bit. I ordered a new set of bars for my 2010 Fury, and going to get a pipe bender and see if I can make it work. If i screw them up, I am only out $200 for the bars, and some for the bender. I just want to retain the stock speedo in the same position. I will try to make the bends just past the speedo/brackets. If I crack the chrome, but still get the bars right, then will send them out to be re-chromed. I just want to bring in the bars about 2", and then slightly angle down by 1/2". This will still clear tank NP. I am actually going to try to straighten out the curve some (just before hand grips). Getting bars next week, and bender also. So this may sound a bit crazy, but I am going to give it my best shot. If it screws up, then I got some chrome to nail to the wall....lol.(and go a different route, risers, new bars, relocate speedo, etc)... I know this was long winded, but it takes some explanation to get my idea out there. Wish me luck guys. I will take some before and after pics for sure. I truly admire all the work STG put into his bike, man that's a lot of creativity. ttyl:)
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
OK- I am now on Plan B, go figgure,...:) The bars would not fit into the bender in the way I wanted too, didn't really like the idea anyway, just had to see. I clear taped the new bars so as not to scratch chrome while trying to maneuver onto the press. I took it back to Harbor Freight as new,(explaining my project) and NP returning. So my Plan B, is to cut the bars in a certain spot, so as to be able to lengthen and rotate the hand grips, and I will insert a "plug" into ends, then drill 2 small holes, on bottom of bars, 1/2" in from cuts to drill and tap threads for small set screws, so I can rotate bar ends to check for clearance of control's. Will add pics of cut area and my "plugs" and "spacers" to see what works. So, I bought a wire welder, thinking I will have to pay someone to weld them anyway, and probably get told they don't want the liability of welding/modifying my bars. NP, as I weld at work to fab up stuff anyway. I will do a better job myself and be responsible for me. So this will be a long process of fitting, adjusting, mounting to bike,then send out for re chroming/or painting a small section of bars. The plugs and spacers are made of cold rolled steel, and are 1/8" (.125") thick. The primer paint add a few thousands on calipers. Ok, now on to cutting with a nice sharp tubing cutter, so I can see what the thickness of the actuall handle bars really are. I might have to make a custom plug on a lathe if dimensions are different than i think they are. I'm thinking the bars are 1/8" thick also. Don't know yet. STG would be proud of me :)
 

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Sounds like a plan. Good luck with your project. Why did buy a new set of bars vs a used set of eBay?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Ya Dave, I got the new bars from my Honda Service center for $160. New list is about $210 from any MC dealer. Got them in 3 days, and I know they are correct/stock/perfect condition.. ya, I could of saved a buck or 2, but could of been a PITA to find, paypal, condition,etc. Screw all the hassles.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Gotter Done

Alright Guys/Gals, just got done cutting perfectly new bars-OMG-lol, and it worked out perfect-finally. These pics will give you a better idea. The tube insert is 4" long and the spacer is 1" long. The spacers are actually .060 larger than chrome bars, so I will make new ones and turn/lathe them down .030, to match bars. Now you can move your bars (rotate on axis) to any position, as long as hand controls don't hit tank. Now, I have been thinking about this mod since I got my bike, and its coming together nicely, just takes planning and a little bit of skill.:)
 

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Wow Dave, you're very determined. Aren't you ?
But, this is what choppers and customization is about :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The 2nd Cut

Alrighty then, gotter done...These next pics will show what all this shit is all about..lol. Now to drill set screws and put on bike. I realized I wont need any spacers after all, because just rotating them takes care of reach distance. Thanks guys for all the interest, been a fun day so far.:) And yes, they will be properly welded together after final fitting-testing. I will probably remove set screws after welding bars together, then slightly drill out threads and making a small counter sink into inner plugs. Then spot weld them up, file smooth and paint. Its going to fit me perfectly, and im sure get a lot of interest. Thank you all for being on this forum and everyone showing what they can do to improve an already nice bike.
 

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Just love the "out of the box" thinking on this one. Well done.:D

Tigger
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Final Fitting/Adjusting

Thank you Tigger for nice complement. I just got done with Final Fitting, before marking for removal and welding. Been a very long day. The bar ends -stock were about 33" wide-inside to inside corner. Now they are 30". Before when I would lock out bar,the inside corner was 9 3/4 " to my reference mark on tape on back of tank. Now it is 6 3/4" to mark. This brings each grip back due to rotating bar about approx 2" straight back, and 3" inward. But the biggest improvement is the angle for your hands. Now it feels natural and feels/looks great. I had to keep rotating grips/bars outward to get a good 1" clearance from tank. (with controls on). Best of all ,no wiring changes, as the relative length only increased very little, if any actually. Been a long day, but I am very happy with the results. I will now punch mark bars on inside facing tank, about 1/4" out from each cut. This will give me a reference for welding,and later to be able to see marks to insure nothing is moving. I will pull bars outward to have a 1/8" gap for filling with weld wire. Probably 2 or 3 full passes around bar. Time to rest...clean up..take a break. Thanks everyone for watching, more pics in a few days. BTW, adding the spacers, even 1", would require rewiring from headlight and rerouting throttle cables. Any longer would need new cables/brake hose. But as they are, they feel great.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ready for Welding

Thank you Jason, doing the best I can. This morning I took bars apart, after marking carefully with spring/center punch, for realignment. I was also thinking last night, I will make a solid center plug, as this will be much stronger than tubing. This will be exact inner dimension of chrome tubing (minus .002) and be exactly 3 1/8" long. I fit tubing slugs and measured how far they go in each end and added 1/8". This will be my welding gap. Using marks and set screws will get me aligned for welding in exact position. After welding tubes together, I will remove set screws, drill out 1/8" holes to 1/4" and 1/4" deep into slug, then weld hole solid to further insure overall strength and security(this will be under bars-out of sight) I will then sand/buff/polish all welds and paint that 1 1/2" section, and make a custom leather sleeve/cover so I can easily slide back to show others the weld area. Chroming might be done next winter..here are some pics...take care, and thanks for watching my project.:)
 

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Stock bars fit me perfectly but I like your approach. Turned out great :cool:
 

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Way more skill than I posess sir; Great job and thank you for the detailed step by step. Awesome way to think creatively.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Well I gotter dun today. On to "Plan C",that was getting it Tig welded by a professional welder as the flux core wire welder is good for mufflers, trailers,lol. Took it to a local guy and got them done today for $80. Cant beat that. Welded the pipe to together (left 1/16" gap between ends. and to slug inside tube. Then removed set screws and drilled a 1/4" hole thru bars (threads of 1/8" set screw, then 1/8" into slug. Then spot welded the hole up nicely. Put it all back on and just got done with a 50mile test ride, and gotta say, it really feels nice, natural hand placement, and really feels custom. BIG difference. Here is some pics. The inside (bare bar) end measurements was 32 1/2" stock and now are 29". And with the grips and throttle on measures 30". But its the 3" pullback and the angle that makes it a completely different feel. (See previous pics). I will maybe get re chromed next winter, but for now will make a 2" long wrap of burgundy leather and sew it onto bars. Then I can slide it back to show others how it was done. The last pic, is my favorite, really shows the nice lines of a Fury.
 

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Looking good Dave, hate your not closer, I wouldn't have charged you nothing for my professional tiggin!....ok, Maybee a beer!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thank you Jason, worth a case anyway. Just got done wrapping up weld areas with 2"wide leather. 1st pic is rt side all stitched up. 2nd is both done, and I don't mind a little leather on the bars, just hand sewed it on. Before putting bars back on bike, I cleaned welds up and then sprayed 2 coats of clear coat (just on weld area). This will let me keep an eye on welds, and also easily slide up to show where my cut was made. This has been a long 13hr day. Will re-chrome bars this winter. I might do the original bars later this year, and send them out for chroming,(no down time). 1st set was practice run. Finally done with this mod.....next? lol
 

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Thank you Jason, worth a case anyway. Just got done wrapping up weld areas with 2"wide leather. 1st pic is rt side all stitched up. 2nd is both done, and I don't mind a little leather on the bars, just hand sewed it on. Before putting bars back on bike, I cleaned welds up and then sprayed 2 coats of clear coat (just on weld area). This will let me keep an eye on welds, and also easily slide up to show where my cut was made. This has been a long 13hr day. Will re-chrome bars this winter. I might do the original bars later this and send them out for chroming,(no down time). 1st set was practice run. Finally done with this mod.....next? lol
I think it's a good idea to cover welds with leather, but I would use wider pieces to cover more. That way it would be more decorative and less obvious that is for covering the welds.

But it's just me...
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Ya, u got a point Evo, well taken. I could only make "sleeve" 1/2" longer on each end, due to a wire loom clip towards grip, and pipe starts a bend toward the speedo. Now I can easily slide it forward to show/see welds. I would like to get a Indian bead bracelets with Velcro for each side,2"in wide in black/reds. Kinda like Bike Jewelery...lol. Manly bike jewelery. I will pick a couple up in Cherokee next month. Your bars are the nicest, cleanest look and most custom Ive seen, great job there. All I really did was chop my bars and re weld them, you did the really nice custom work :)
 
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