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Fury spark plugs?

17K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  mbaskett 
#1 ·
An earlier post suggested that the shop upgraded plug for fury to ngk dcpr7e 3932 laser platinum. I went to NGK site, they don't make a plug for Fury. Any ideas?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Here is a link that may help:

[NGK-DCPR7E] - $6.00 : NGK Spark Plugs Store!, NGK Spark Plugs We Sale, Spark Plug For Racing car, Automobile, Motorcycles, ATVS, Scooters, Marine Engine, Agricultural Equipment

Here is the basics:

Brand : NGK
Parts No. : DCPR7E
Stock No. : 3932 / 4415 / 3482
NGK Standard Types Spark Plugs DCPR7E
Design Symbols used in NGK Spark Plugs
DC - Thread Size / Hex Size: 12 mm / 5/8" (16.0 mm)

P - Construction: Projected Insulator Type

Heat Rating Numbers : 7

E - Thread Reach: 19 mm (3/4")

NGK Standard Resistor Spark Plugs : DCPR7E

Standard Non Resistor Plug : DCP7E

Standard Green Plug :

Standard Resistor Green Plug :
Iridium IX : DCPR7EIX
Iridium MAX : DCPR7EIX-P
Premium RX : DCPR7ERX-P

MADE IN JAPAN

Cross Reference Denso Parts No. : XU22EPR-U
Denso IRIDIUM POWER : IXU22
Denso IRIDIUM TOUGH : VXU22

The long and short of it is this....

I will guarantee you that you could install a brand new standard EL cheapo NGK plug in your bike and ride it and bring the bike back and install a brand new iridium or platinum NGK plug and ride the bike and you won't see a noticeable difference as far as performance.

The whole concept of these high dollar iridium/platinum plugs is about longevity... These new plugs allow you to run your car for 100k miles without changing spark plugs so if you go by the service manuals recommendations you would never get your money's worth out of the expensive plugs. I run the iridium plugs and pull them and check them at the recommended points.... Clean them check/regap them and reinstall them.

This is my 2 cents and your mileage may vary. But please don't be taken in by the hype/marketing that says you will get better performance.

Perhaps some other members will chime in and give their opinions as I am certainly not the all knowing be all end all guru around here... Lol
 
#6 ·
Here is a link that may help:

[NGK-DCPR7E] - $6.00 : NGK Spark Plugs Store!, NGK Spark Plugs We Sale, Spark Plug For Racing car, Automobile, Motorcycles, ATVS, Scooters, Marine Engine, Agricultural Equipment

Here is the basics:

Brand : NGK
Parts No. : DCPR7E
Stock No. : 3932 / 4415 / 3482
NGK Standard Types Spark Plugs DCPR7E
Design Symbols used in NGK Spark Plugs
DC - Thread Size / Hex Size: 12 mm / 5/8" (16.0 mm)

P - Construction: Projected Insulator Type

Heat Rating Numbers : 7

E - Thread Reach: 19 mm (3/4")

NGK Standard Resistor Spark Plugs : DCPR7E

Standard Non Resistor Plug : DCP7E

Standard Green Plug :

Standard Resistor Green Plug :
Iridium IX : DCPR7EIX
Iridium MAX : DCPR7EIX-P
Premium RX : DCPR7ERX-P

MADE IN JAPAN

Cross Reference Denso Parts No. : XU22EPR-U
Denso IRIDIUM POWER : IXU22
Denso IRIDIUM TOUGH : VXU22

The long and short of it is this....

I will guarantee you that you could install a brand new standard EL cheapo NGK plug in your bike and ride it and bring the bike back and install a brand new iridium or platinum NGK plug and ride the bike and you won't see a noticeable difference as far as performance.

The whole concept of these high dollar iridium/platinum plugs is about longevity... These new plugs allow you to run your car for 100k miles without changing spark plugs so if you go by the service manuals recommendations you would never get your money's worth out of the expensive plugs. I run the iridium plugs and pull them and check them at the recommended points.... Clean them check/regap them and reinstall them.

This is my 2 cents and your mileage may vary. But please don't be taken in by the hype/marketing that says you will get better performance.

Perhaps some other members will chime in and give their opinions as I am certainly not the all knowing be all end all guru around here... Lol
I'm crushed.:crying:
 
#8 ·
The stock plugs are fine. Also don't forget the lower the number the hotter the plug, so 6 is hotter than 7. Hotter does not mean a stronger spark, rather it refers to the ability of the plug to conduct heat away from the cylinder head.

If My buddy Gar reads this thread I'm sure he can explain the ins and outs of plugs much better than I can.
Stick with the plugs Honda installed and save some money for chrome. :grin:
 
#12 ·
This came up elsewhere: Crush Gaskets: Why only use plugs once?

The short of it is the soft gasket is used to accommodate imperfections in both the plug and cylinder head. A used gasket is already crushed and hard and therefore cannot compensate for imperfections.

In general, it's often difficult to get a straight answer about spark plugs in automotive and motorcycle circles because frankly, it's not that important. Where it is important is aviation where there's no room for error or erroneous information. Champion says this:
An ideally installed spark plug has the firing end flush with the combustion chamber wall, with no spark plug threads or cylinder spark plug boss threads exposed to combustion gasses. Exposed threads can become hot-spots for initiating preignition. Gaskets that have become too hard with normal usage won't "Hold Torque" correctly, and spark plugs can come loose with disastrous results. An annealed gasket will not meet new specifications.
sparkplugs.co.uk/torque-setting has similar information:
It is extremely important that the correct torque is used when installing spark plugs. Most spark plugs (flat seat with gasket type) have a 'crush washer' or gasket which becomes compressed during the initial installation, this allows around half a turn of the plug to be made once contact between cylinder head and gasket has been made. Subsequent reuse of the plug will allow only one twelfth of a turn to be made after contact due to the gasket already having been compressed. Failure to observe this guideline may result in a damaged plug or cylinder head - to the extent of fracture or thread stripping. At best, an overtightened plug will not perform correctly - the plug's internal components will be 'stretched' and may not be able to dissipate heat correctly thus effectively increasing the heat range of the plug, making it run hotter and possibly overheat. Plug and engine damage may result.
Automotive gaskets aren't copper and are not meant to be replaced, and unlike aviation plugs the Fury plug prices don't range from $35 to $190 (each), so just replace the plug when you need to. These aren't high-compression engines, the Honda recommended plug works best--they didn't try to save $0.03 by specifying a cheap plug, they put a lot of research into what would make their engine run excellent and went with that.



There's another long-running plug thread here:
 
#13 ·
Automotive gaskets aren't copper and are not meant to be replaced, and unlike aviation plugs the Fury plug prices don't range from $35 to $190 (each), so just replace the plug when you need to. These aren't high-compression engines, the Honda recommended plug works best--they didn't try to save $0.03 by specifying a cheap plug, they put a lot of research into what would make their engine run excellent and went with that.



There's another long-running plug thread here:
You know I have to both agree and disagree with you, right?

Yep, crush gaskets used in any way are only rated for one use (agree with you). Now if you don't change or pull the plug for 100K miles, that IX plug should work better.

No, design engineers DO NOT only have one parameter (the engine runs best) to work within. There are all kinds of issues (which plug manufacturer has provided kick-backs, COST, even available materials are just a few additional factors). No, the engineers do not always do what is perfect. If so, there would be no plastic automatic transmission parts, and all cars would last one million miles. I know I took that a step far, but to illustrate the point, as I have heard that argument before.

Plus, ANOTHER SPARK PLUG THREAD??? HOLY COW where is Scotty Kilmer when I need him?
 
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