[mtdrydock]

In the "problems encountered" thread, Furyrider_ledez09 stated he was able to slow his idle down. I PM'ed him how and here was his reply...

Well, its kinda a bitch and the bikes ecu will only let it go so low, but here it goes...

First you have to take off all air filter box stuff similar to installing an after market intake adapter. you will have to take off plastic head covers for more room and work ability. Next your will find the two throttle cables coming in to the throttle body and if you fallow this with your eyes you will see the throttle body cable blade cam (half moon shape) well that will swing back and forth as you pull the throttle. This rocker has a stop which is a set screw just under the throttle body's blade cam. now this is the tricky part, but if you can take a 7mm open or closed end wrench and bend it to have a 90 degree so you can get behind to the back side. Keep in mind that your working between two cylinders heads thats not exactly the as spacious as a chevy if you know what i mean...

I found the best thing is just to remove the all thread acting as a back stop. what i found is that the bikes ecm keeps the idle from going to low, but the factory doesn't set the screws all the same distance (due to high volume production) and sometimes the screw will actually keep the bike idled up slightly in my case. so the bike now idles just low enough to hear a slight stump in the idle which is the way i like it. the motor sounds way more relaxed at a light as appose to the high idle and getting way to hot. Ill try to submit some photos explaining.

I did this tonight. It took maybe 30min and the idle with stock airbox and exhaust is noticably lower. Once again I could not get the video to embed, so here is the link.

Furyrider_ledez09's Idle Mod

 

[Sea Dawg]

I really would like to hear clueless chime in on this

 

[LesterDiamond]

Interesting...

 

[Deanohh]

THat sounds like where mine idles at without doing anything.

 

[mtdrydock]

THat sounds like where mine idles at without doing anything.

There is a set screw and mine was all the in. I backed it out and it seemed to have lowered the idle.

I say seemed because after first doing it I ran it for a while in the garage when the ambient temp was in the 60's. Later I took it for a ride and the idle was high again, but the air temp had dropped to below 40. I well check tomorrow when it is warm again to see if the idle comes back down.

 

[Deanohh]

Do you have to adjust the slack in throttle cable so that the stop thing is down on the stop?

 

[mtdrydock]

Do you have to adjust the slack in throttle cable so that the stop thing is down on the stop?

That I don't know. What I do know is that the throttle will only close so far because the butterfly closes completely shut. This is where you would want to set the stop screw. It is a threaded stud with a nut on the backside to lock it in place. I loosened the nut on the backside and then took a needlenose pliers and turned the stud out to where the stops are barely touching with the throttle closed. I suppose you could use a feeler gauge for this. I eyeballed it. Then tighten the nut on the backside to hold.

This is how I did it today. It has worked for me. I just went out and figured out why it was idling high again. Before I thought the the stud and nut was actually a bolt so I didn't tighten the nut after adjusting and the stud worked its way back in to where it was set originally.

 

[mtdrydock]

THat sounds like where mine idles at without doing anything.

This is about where mine idled stock.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzcpn5oFzOc

I can hear the difference.

 

[2 Evil]

I have been meaning to post this for some time but kept forgetting. I must try this tomorrow.

 

[Deanohh]

This is about where mine idled stock.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzcpn5oFzOc

I can hear the difference.

Wow. I don't blame you for trying to slow that down. I get something almost that fast on a cold start, but soon slows back down to normal. I haven't adjusted anything, but when it was new, I thought it idled too slow until it had about 300 miles on it. So maybe I had a slower setting to start with.

 

[LesterDiamond]

That I don't know. What I do know is that the throttle will only close so far because the butterfly closes completely shut. This is where you would want to set the stop screw. It is a threaded stud with a nut on the backside to lock it in place. I loosened the nut on the backside and then took a needlenose pliers and turned the stud out to where the stops are barely touching with the throttle closed. I suppose you could use a feeler gauge for this. I eyeballed it. Then tighten the nut on the backside to hold.

This is how I did it today. It has worked for me. I just went out and figured out why it was idling high again. Before I thought the the stud and nut was actually a bolt so I didn't tighten the nut after adjusting and the stud worked its way back in to where it was set originally.

Sure would be nice with maybe some pics.

 

[Clueless]

I wasn't going to get drawn into this, but I keep getting pms about it, this is the only comment I plan on making about this "MOD", I am no expert in the PGM-FI, but from what I have seen on other Hondas, here are my opinions, take it or leave it. "It is your bike, do what you want ",First off did you use a tach ? or your calibrated ear ? I watched the videos and as cold as it looks, snow on the ground and all, it seems to me the FI was working properly, it is suppose to run faster when cold and come down as the bike heats up. (Same for Deanohh).
Changing the throttle valve closed position (that is what you have done) is probably going to cause problems in the future. The IAC Valve is what (along with the ECU) sets the idle on the bike.
The Honda factory techs adjust and set the throttle position, (they do use proper equipment) and lock it in, the white paint on the screw you adjusted is there to let you know not to fool with it. The screws are not all in the same position, because of this tuning, not due to the volume of bikes built, if they could all be in the same place, there would not be a screw there in the first place.
Now that you have "adjusted" your engine 2 of the sensors (IACV and Throttle Valve Closed) are not properly set, this may cause less oil pressure and also result in fouled plugs (at idle) time will tell.
I would watch/listen to the engine running for awhile, particularly in the top end and cam chain tensioners. This area is often damaged by engines set to idle too low ("but it sounds cool that way")
I don't understand why you want the bike to idle slower to begin with, it is designed to idle @ 930 rpm +/_ 100 rpm. Slowing it down to sound like a John Deere Tractor must be appealing to some.

Good luck, I will now step down

 

[FuryRider_ledez09]

Hey guys, Im glad my little tidd bit of information has helped. The thing you NEED to watch out for is if you do not tighten up the lock nut all the way, then the tiny all thread will walk back out due to vibration and will cause you to have a very high idle which then can cause overheating issues.

I ride my fury from Cypress Tx (northwest Houston) all the way to Kemah, Tx. (almost Galveston) every weekend round trip to my Chicks house. its a 65mi ride open throttle doing about 80mph. I noticed that the motor was idling high when i pulled off the free way at the first red light and with the cobra's exhaust with out baffles (that i just put back in) i also was roast'n the hell outta my chicken wing legs. So i wrapped the pipes with heat tape under the heat shield to try and keep form burning my self. Thats when i decided to try and look at the idle.

I was first trying to take the slack out of the throttle grip because my dad has an Iron Horse Tejas chopper and ive always liked how tight the throttle was, thats when i noticed the set screw.

But some of you guys will have no problem with this and some this will be a good piece of info. thats just the reality of anything thats high volume production. not every unit will be the exact same.

 

[FuryRider_ledez09]

Hey look man, all im trying to do was lower the bikes idle and not run so damn hot. i highly doubt the "honda techs" would set my idle at 1450 rpm...

just sayin. beside, im well aware as i stated that the ecm has most control of the idle, but some of us do not want our bikes idling like your holding your hand on the throttle. especially mine, It was always running with the fans on and running hot as hell. Now, im comfortable with the engine temp its at now. and i paid for it, and thats what i want. These bikes are now more complicated or engineered then a modern GM Ls2 v8 (gen-III) so i think things will be o.k... Hey, it solved my issue.

And that as you said, "sounds cool" sound... that will only be achieved with high lift and high LSA cam specs. thats all the 'potato potato sound is for the s&s v-twin, just cams. so anyone who thinks you can do this by turning down the idle is Dumb, and i really didnt appreciate being associated with someone who would. there are some morans out there, but give us a little more credit then that.

-Jay-

 

[Sea Dawg]

Need to chill man......Clueless is our go to guy and we respect him for his consice and freely given advise.......!

 

[460brevill]

my engine idles between 900 and1000.the lower the idle the lower the oil pressure.in hot temps this could be dangerous to the bottom end of the engine.if he is holding 900 or above he should be ok.if it gets down to pukada pukada it may be a problem.just my 2 cents.

 

[mtdrydock]

if the oil pressure gets too low, won't the light come on?

 

[Sea Dawg]

If the light is on i'ts really to late....

 

[mtdrydock]

If the light is on i'ts really to late....

What is the point of the light then?

 

[BluFury]

Its also nice to know what you can do to .