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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, new to the forum and I have a number of questions.
As you can see from the pics I've uploaded I am trying to do some unique things with my 2012 Fury. Definitely need to lower this thing to make it work the way I want. I've learned from reading the forms that I'll need an air suspension system. Will probably going with the Platinum Air Suspension assuming I can get it for under $900?

I saw about L&M offering a discount for all the newbies on the Forum, but haven't found it lately. Can someone point me in the right direction for the discount?

I am also trying to do a tentacle light set like you see on the Yamaha in the attached picture. Open to options/thoughts on how to accomplish this.

I will be building my own fiberglass saddlebags instead of paying a huge amount of money. I'm probably going to build three different rear ends and build it so I can swap them. This drives me to ask a question about supporting the bottom of the bags and how people attach them onto the rears. I see a couple single bars but after talking to a guy in a motorcycle shop I'm thinking about building flat panel support bars out of galvanized steel to support the weight of the bags. These will be long sweeping bags off the back, probably a lot longer than most of the bags out there but I'm trying to match the inverted arch of the gas tank, so you could probably get an idea of what I'm trying to do by the attached pictures.

its likely i will have to run the exhaust through the right bag - I am ok with that, but worried about high heat - has anyone taped their pipes?

Thanks.

Jackel321619-Ace
 

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You didn't have to start two threads in two different sections on this, most of us read the Active Topics and will see your thread pop up. (It's also bad form.)

You probably want an air suspension that can air up both sides of the cylinder; the second side adds damping control, otherwise you just have lift. As @460brevill said in the other thread, Ken has a great setup that works not only when stopped, but on the fly.

The other thing though is you'll want to air the front up and down. I haven't seen the bikes you've pictured, but from others I've seen they have to air down the back and front in order to rest flat on the frame. There's a thread on here where one guy did that.

Your lean angle is going to be a concern. As is, the Fury is 4.5" off the ground, I believe, and if you put a sweeper on the rear your ride height will be an issue--you probably already know this, and I'm just trying to be helpful in the case you overlooked it. From what I understand the skeleton in the rear will support anything you throw at it if you tie it in to the main rear rails too, although you did say "bags" not just "glass"--460 would know more about that.

Are you sure you want to go through a bag with the exhaust? That's going to look unbalanced, which is why most guys cut them short if they're running a single (combined) pipe.

I've never seen the tentacle light before, definitely interesting.

There are two good threads on wrapping pipes as I recall, it's been done, you just have to look for it.

Anyway, welcome to the forum, and I look forward to seeing your project progress. You certainly have interesting ideas that will add flavor to the Fury community.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks WI- Hedgehog. I actually posted it the first time and the forms told me it never took so then I posted it again, I'm a little surprised you can see the post twice because mine still says it's didn't show up. Thanks for the info, I wasn't sure if that rear skeleton will hold much.
I am a little worried about the exhaust as well. I was thinking of going to into one pipe, or doing custom pipes. I have seen that exhaust in the bag before but not sure how they did it other than wrapping and building the bag with metal embedded to reflect Heat.
I was going to see if I could get away with it without putting air on the front as well. I was thinking of building up the bottom of the frame to make it look a little different and when I do the fiberglass wrap coming back to the front frame it might look a little weird if I don't build up the bottom of the frame. Hard to explain in just words.
I think I need you to remind you as well. Appreciate that.
 

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If you drop the rear only, you'd rest on the frame on the rear only, and the front would still be in the air. It's too long of a bike to have the front below the rear when aired up so that it rests level when the rear is aired down. Then again, I've seen some unusual things, so maybe you can find a way to get it done with just the rear.

The stock Fury has the answer to the heat issue: Triple heat shielding with air flow between each.
- The exhaust pipe is small in diameter.
- There's three-sided shielding over that, the fourth side is open to take in cooling air.
- There are small, flat shields by the knee and foot.

If you did the same (triple-shielding with cooling air) you'd be fine. The Fury "only" has 1300cc engine, so it doesn't produce that much heat.

If you wanted to take extra precautions you could ceramic coat the sections that go inside the box. Ceracoat makes two D-I-Y formulas: Betty Crocker (H-series oven-cure) and spray-and-pray. I'm going to suggest you pay a professional around $250 to do three pieces for you unless you have experience doing this, because learning how to ceramic coat parts is frustrating, expensive, and costly. I have spray painted a bunch of stuff, only because I have access to a large shop and equipment, and I still opted not to ceramic coat my own parts. Prep them by removing any weld BBs, sanding any welds flush, basically making the part structurally look like you want it to look when coated, and a professional finisher will blast the part and do the rest of the finishing work.

Ceramic coating is almost unbelievable as a heat barrier. I had a muffler ceramic coated because it resided in the engine compartment and heat radiation was an issue (it's on SlingshotForums.com, under the same username). When running it shed much, much less heat--almost like it wasn't there, and if you let it sit for five minutes after shutting off the engine you could touch it without burning yourself--incredible in my book. Would you want to touch a muffler five minutes after shutting off an engine? Not me. No way. That's like putting my hand on an electric stove burner right after turning it off and it cools from red to black, still gonna hear skin sizzle. However, the ceramic coated muffler doesn't have that issue. You could probably go double-wall pipe instead of triple if the inner pipe was coated on the outside of the pipe, and the outer pipe was coated on both sides, and be perfectly fine, as long as there was air flow around the inside and outside of the outer pipe. (Thinking of a worst-case scenario of 110°F day in stand-still traffic, idling for 45 minutes.)

Hope this helps with a few ideas,
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow. This is great advise. This is the kind of great advise I wished for when joining. You sold me. I will hire out the "ceramic" pipe coating. I have the standard Factory pipe do you think I need to buy the two into one pipe to get it down in thickness?
 

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Thank you for the compliment.

Everyone's talents are different, the choices are always yours.

There are some very good Photoshop guys on here, personally, if it were me, I'd post up a few original pictures, then edit them in Microsoft Paint (comes with Windows) and hack together what I want, post them, then ask if a guru might be able to stitch the originals using the hack job as an example. That's how I'd figure out what exhaust look to go for.

Some guys here don't need that, they have awesome visions of how everything will turn out--that's not me, maybe it's you.

With the steampunk bikes I just posted up they look great because everything is balanced--stuff is hung off of them, but not without being aesthetically pleasing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Steampunk bike sounds awesome. Is it a thread on here?
I have done web design in the past so Photoshop should be fairly easy, I also stenciled my race bike before I did a chameleon airbrush paint job on it. I own a stencil cutter so I can come up with pretty much any design and cut it out, I also have most airbrush colors made by auto air and createx. Just havent had time with working on the house and construction and family and.. And.. And..
Was thinking of hitting up a basic auto shop to fab up straight pipes cheap and coat them.. since the pipes will go in through the bag and likely stick out the bottom, most people would never see them, so I don't need to be fancy with them only didn't make sure the covers are perfect. I will have to look up the pipes you mentioned about the shielding and the air flow. All sounds interesting but haven't had time to research it much yet. Thanks again for all the info.
 

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Keep the posts coming, always interesting to see what others are doing to their bike!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Started building the rear end to match a Biggy tire, but realized it was too big after wrapping it in fiberglass cloth. It looks crazy, my wife even said it looks like a giant a$$. Don't know if a tire out there this 26in wide, so I'll be chopping the rear end down. Needs to be a bit more narrow, I was looking at the 360 tires and this one would be closer to a 700 or 800 if I left it. That's a little too wide for my taste.
 

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Started building the rear end to match a Biggy tire, but realized it was too big after wrapping it in fiberglass cloth. It looks crazy, my wife even said it looks like a giant a$$. Don't know if a tire out there this 26in wide, so I'll be chopping the rear end down. Needs to be a bit more narrow, I was looking at the 360 tires and this one would be closer to a 700 or 800 if I left it. That's a little too wide for my taste.
Why not buy a cheap aftermarket fender and build around it? Just asking.:smile:
 

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.... I was looking at the 360 tires and this one would be closer to a 700 or 800 if I left it. That's a little too wide for my taste.
Honda Fury FAQ
Q: What is the biggest tire I can use on the stock Fury?

A3: 250mm, with the Sumo-x version. This proven method to widening the tire is the Sumo-x version and looks good! But, this version will cost you $3,000+ for the WHOLE kit. You can order these in segments, which could be cheaper in the long run, determining on what you add. Here's the link: MeanCycles - HONDA - FURY 1300 - 250 FAT TIRE KIT FOR HONDA FURY and this thread here: http://www.furyforums.com/forum/fury...-tire-kit.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Hedgehog, I looked at a kit, but I prefer doing these mods myself. I used to build custom cars, and I'll be working on a few more cars in the future. I prefer to build my own Fender because I can do a lot of serious mods. I did buy Ken's old fenders off of his bike on the part out and will probably be using those to do the sum different rear ends. I plan to do three different styles of rear ends including bags. If all works out well, I will be doing 14 to 16 in extended bags as well as a 500 or 600 rear tire. I have a long way to go yet, and I'm taking a break because I tore my hand up the other day working on the house.
 

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Saw that, but rather meant to take note that swing-arm modifications need to be made in order to fit a 250 fatty (260 max), and at some point before the 360 you mentioned the driveshaft will be in the way.

When I first saw the Fury the 200 looked massive. But a fatty....

....thin babe, fat tire, the only way to go...





(somehow I messed up on the pic....)
 

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You can widen the rear rim to 7.75" (where the tyre meets the rim) and mount a 240 tyre without cutting the swingarm. You do need to make clearance in the torque bar though. Tyre will just touch the fender support frame on the occasional bump.
 

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