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In summary,

Silverstar Ultra halogen bulbs or equivalent are an awesome upgrade over stock halogen bulbs. They do have a shorter lifespan thou.

HID xenon bulbs without a projector lense will give you a variety of results from crap, to the same as a Silverstar Ultra, to a little better. Your mileage will vary. Finding a place for the ballasts and the hilo switching can be a challenge based upon your wiring skills.

HID xenon bulbs with a projector lense require you to split the headlight housing apart, and reassemble, in order to install. But provide the best lighting available. Finding a place for the ballasts and the hilo switching can be a challenge based upon your wiring skills.

LED H4 replacement bulbs with multiple LED's are just crap. They keep the LED wattage low so that they don't have to cool them. None of the LED's produce enough light and are not focused at all.

LED bulbs with fan assemblies contain two superbright cree led's and a fan to keep them cool from burning out. The output from these are better than stock, but still only reach around 1200 or so lumens (effective on the road output). Just like HID projectors you'll need to split the housing in order to install, and find room for the ballast. To date, they still don't replace the effectiveness of HID's.
Great summation.
 

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Hi guys,

I'm reviving an old thread....

So ive changed the bulb on my bike from the stock halogen bulb to a 6500K LED, the light is a bit sharper and seems brighter, however it seems to have a smaller spread area and the high beam seems to be pointing upwards. Is this a problem with the way i installed it ( i don't see how since there is only one way to install the bulb due to the cutouts) or is the headlight glass cover not compatible with the LED.

This is the new bulb i installed (plug and play, no shenanigans)

238537




Stock Low beam

238538




Stock High Beam

238539



LED Low Beam


238540



LED High Beam


238541
 

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The problem that you are running into is fundamental in the design of the LED 'bulb' that you are using. The beam dispersal is entirely dependent on filament placement. The original halogen filament is in one place, fixed. Your LED has several LED chips placed along the side as the light source. So the light is no longer originating in the spot that the optics of the delivery system was designed around. There is no real way to fix this in the set up that you have. Using HID's or LED in the original halogen reflector will always produce results like this. When the entire assembly is replaced with a 'daymaker' type set up, you are installing a source AND a projector/reflector assembly that was designed for it.
 
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Hi guys,

I'm reviving an old thread....

So ive changed the bulb on my bike from the stock halogen bulb to a 6500K LED, the light is a bit sharper and seems brighter, however it seems to have a smaller spread area and the high beam seems to be pointing upwards. Is this a problem with the way i installed it ( i don't see how since there is only one way to install the bulb due to the cutouts) or is the headlight glass cover not compatible with the LED.

This is the new bulb i installed (plug and play, no shenanigans)

View attachment 238537



Stock Low beam

View attachment 238538



Stock High Beam

View attachment 238539


LED Low Beam


View attachment 238540


LED High Beam


View attachment 238541
My best guess is that part of the issue is when you turn on the High beam the power to the Low beam is turned off, which is why you lose light down low.

To fix this install a diode between the low beam and high beam wire so that power can flow from the high beam toward the low beam but not in the opposite direction. This should keep the low beam LEDs on with the high beam and fill in the light down low.

I have never used that style of LED bulb so I am not familiar with it. The ones I have in the high beams of my Suburban have a collar around the base of the bulb with a set screw so you can adjust, or "clock", the bulb in the housing so that it has the proper orientation.

The LEDs should face left and right in the housing and NOT up and down, or any other direction.
 

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I solved the lack of enough light from my stock H4 by replacing it with a higher output H4 that has the same rating in watts (55/65W) from memory. I get no extra heat or current draw and more light. Cost only AU$ 23.
 

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I am certain it can for a certain period of time, how long is the real question.

Another question is how often do you ride with the high beam on for extended periods of time?
I used to do it for extended periods. I was going in to work at 4AM on back country roads, would typically see a dozen cars total. Even less at the start of the pandemic.
 

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I used to do it for extended periods. I was going in to work at 4AM on back country roads, would typically see a dozen cars total. Even less at the start of the pandemic.
Then I suppose someone with your commute would be a good test mule to see how long that bulb would last with extended use of both sets of LEDs.

The good news is, if it burns out too quickly, they are only about $40 for a pair of those bulbs, so no big deal.
 

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Then I suppose someone with your commute would be a good test mule to see how long that bulb would last with extended use of both sets of LEDs.

The good news is, if it burns out too quickly, they are only about $40 for a pair of those bulbs, so no big deal.
Living & working in "big cities" I have the high beam on during daylight hours also (per the Motorcycle Safety Foundation recommendation & US Department of Transportation). Since long rides are usually a combination of freeway & highway, it's on then too.

See, @BakoFury, there's another reason to ride up here, high-beams aren't illegal. (P.S. Helmets aren't required either.)

Also, found a relocation (going away) gift for your wonderful daughter:

238543


Hope to see you soon!
 

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My best guess is that part of the issue is when you turn on the High beam the power to the Low beam is turned off, which is why you lose light down low.

To fix this install a diode between the low beam and high beam wire so that power can flow from the high beam toward the low beam but not in the opposite direction. This should keep the low beam LEDs on with the high beam and fill in the light down low.

I have never used that style of LED bulb so I am not familiar with it. The ones I have in the high beams of my Suburban have a collar around the base of the bulb with a set screw so you can adjust, or "clock", the bulb in the housing so that it has the proper orientation.

The LEDs should face left and right in the housing and NOT up and down, or any other direction.
I'm not good with electrics so id rather not mess with the wiring, i checked the orientation and they are pointing left and right. I have the day-maker headlight, but i don't want to mess around with the bracket to install it since it doesn't fit stock. (there's a big thread on how to install it).

I'll just have to drive around with the current setup and see how that works out.
 

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I'm not good with electrics so id rather not mess with the wiring, i checked the orientation and they are pointing left and right. I have the day-maker headlight, but i don't want to mess around with the bracket to install it since it doesn't fit stock. (there's a big thread on how to install it).

I'll just have to drive around with the current setup and see how that works out.
Don't feel bad, you are not alone. A lot of people are intimidated by electronics.

The "Daymaker" headlights are pretty easy to install, just FYI.
 

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My son kept chewing on electrical chords, so I grounded him...

He's doing better currently and conducting himself properly.
Dad joke...

But really
 

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Don't feel bad, you are not alone. A lot of people are intimidated by electronics.

The "Daymaker" headlights are pretty easy to install, just FYI.
The 'daymaker' route is the best way to go, then you aren't fucking up all the work they did designing the halogen reflector trying to make it work in a way it can't...
 
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