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I need help! [Idle Air Controller]

658 Views 23 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  joelzkins
I removed my idle air control valve in order to learn and see if I could trouble shoot this occasional high idle issue I have and I messed my bike up. When I put my iac back in it won’t run right. With the spacer that the older models have it runs about 800 rpm. But once it gets shut off and restarted it won’t stay running. With out it it runs at 2000 cold and 1300 rpm warm. I’ve tried everything I can think of regarding the relearn process. Ive read every thread I can find regarding this. I can’t get the ecu to set the idle correctly. I can turn the key on and then after the iac sets I can spin the valve plunger 4 turns farther down and it runs perfect at 930. Once I shut it off and restart it it runs way to high. I do have a PC5 so I mess around with it if needed. Is the tps programmable? Is there something I’m missing? It was fine before I messed with it and now it sucks! Oh and no engine light.
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We have some very experienced members here who will be able to give better suggestions than me but I would start by putting the bike back to stock as much as possible. Disconnect the PC5, put the stock air cleaner back on and check for air leaks around the IAC valve. The do a reset and relearn. This assumes the IAC is OK. I'd also look closely at anything I changed from stock and check for air leaks such as pair valves. The rubber hoses may have cracks and let air in so check them too. So look again at anything you moved in the process maybe something came off. You get the idea.

I'd also take a look at motorcycle MD on youtube. The guy is a working Honda motorcycle mechanic and he has a lot of good Honda content covering all kinds of faults.
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I’m not mechanic yet I would check where the throttle cable sits at the injector end & make sure it’s not caught on the edge & ridding a few mm high. Ie not seated properly in its spot
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Disconnect the pc5 and do the relearn. If it runs right then rebook pc5.
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We have some very experienced members here who will be able to give better suggestions than me but I would start by putting the bike back to stock as much as possible. Disconnect the PC5, put the stock air cleaner back on and check for air leaks around the IAC valve. The do a reset and relearn. This assumes the IAC is OK. I'd also look closely at anything I changed from stock and check for air leaks such as pair valves. The rubber hoses may have cracks and let air in so check them too. So look again at anything you moved in the process maybe something came off. You get the idea.

I'd also take a look at motorcycle MD on youtube. The guy is a working Honda motorcycle mechanic and he has a lot of good Honda content covering all kinds of faults.
Disconnect the pc5 and do the relearn. If it runs right then rebook pc5.
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I removed my idle air control valve in order to learn and see if I could trouble shoot this occasional high idle issue I have and I fucked my bike up. When I put my iac back in it won’t run right. With the spacer that the older models have it runs about 800 rpm. But once it gets shut off and restarted it won’t stay running. With out it it runs at 2000 cold and 1300 rpm warm. I’ve tried everything I can think of regarding the relearn process. Ive read every thread I can find regarding this. I can’t get the ecu to set the idle correctly. I can turn the key on and then after the iac sets I can spin the valve plunger 4 turns farther down and it runs perfect at 930. Once I shut it off and restart it it runs way to high. I do have a PC5 so I fuck around with it if needed. Is the tps programmable? Is there something I’m missing? It was fine before I messed with it and now it sucks! Oh and no engine light.
As has been said, a "re-learn" has to be done with the ECU in direct control of the system, if that gets mucked up with another controller fighting with the ECU things go badly.

Please read the Official Forum Guidelines as you've broken quite a number of them. I understand this is a motorcycle forum and your bike has a serious issue, however the "rules" are there for more than obvious reasons.

Other than that, welcome to the forum. We're a close-knit community happy to assist other owners (and other bikers in general as it turns out), and would be happy if you stuck around after this is fixed.
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I had a similar problem with pops fury. I replaced the IAC and it ran perfectly for a while, now it’s a little cranky on cold starts but she’s stays running.
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Oh I will double check the rules I didn’t mean to make any blunder.😬I’m sorry about that.it’s been a while since I’ve been on here. Every time Ive used the power commander it has never stayed on the bike. It wouldn’t start with it still hooked up. However when I bought the bike it had a lesser PC5 on it. Does the downloaded map only get used if the PC5 stays hooked up? Everything is stock exhaust. Air filter. Plugs. I’ve replaced all the rubber arts that can leak air. I appreciate the responses. I think I need to spend more time with the laptop and the PC5 and learn more about it!
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Am I correct in thinking once u install the IAC and connect the battery back up and u start it it’s suppose to run at 1300 rpm? Not 1900? I can’t get it to not run at 1900. Any ideas would be super appreciated. I have a brand new IAC and 4 used ones to mess with. All the same results. Can u accidentally mess up the ecm to change the cold idle rpm? the bike is completely stock.
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How do u know what the rpm’s are without a tach?
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My bike does idle higher than I would like it to but I couldn’t say if it was 1100 or 1900.
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After you install the IAC leave the negative post on the battery unhooked, turn the key on and let it set for 30 minutes, now turn the key off and rebook the negative battery post. Start the engine (DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE) let it idle for 15minutes. Now turn engine off. Restart and see what it does.. Good luck.
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How do u know what the rpm’s are without a tach?
I have a glow shift tach and temp gauge on my bike.
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After you install the IAC leave the negative post on the battery unhooked, turn the key on and let it set for 30 minutes, now turn the key off and rebook the negative battery post. Start the engine (DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE) let it idle for 15minutes. Now turn engine off. Restart and see what it does.. Good luck.
Do try 460's reset procedure.
Worked for me wen i changed my IAC
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Ok I’m letting it set like u said for a few hours. I have some stuff to do so I’ll let ya know!
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Okay so after talking to a super helpful guy at a motorcycle shop I figured out what is was. Because I’ve replaced the IAC and tps I have knocked the calibration of the throttle body off. And the whole throttle body needs recalibrated with the ecm. I was giving him explicit detail regarding the ecu not putting the plunger valve in the right location and he knew exactly what I was talking about. Hopefully this will fix the occasional high idle stutter issue but now counting on it. Take it to the dealer and have them do a throttle body reset! Should be one hour of labor he said. He also said the fury has fickle ecus.
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The relearn will reset it for free if done properly. The ECU will not change by replacing parts and will pair with and reset new parts.
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Joelzkins, I am working on a manual Idle control unit and I need an old IAC. Can I buy, beg, borrow or steal one from you? Thanks
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Joelzkins, I am working on a manual Idle control unit and I need an old IAC. Can I buy, beg, borrow or steal one from you? Thanks
Absolutely! Let me get on my computer tonight and I’ll send you my number and communicate with you more on it.
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Joelzkins, I am working on a manual Idle control unit and I need an old IAC. Can I buy, beg, borrow or steal one from you? Thanks
I hope you can make this happen, I would be interested in doing this.
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