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I've attached the pages from the service manual for the valves and oil change.

Don't ignore the valves! You may be tempted to try to save time/money by only doing the oil change for the 600 mile service. Don't do it! When I did mine, two of my valves needed adjusting. One intake valve was super tight.

It's up to you whether you want to do the valves yourself or have the dealer do them for you. But you should know that the dealer will charge you a ridiculously high amount for a relatively cheap and easy job. A feeler gauge only costs a couple bucks at an auto-parts store.

I adjusted my valves at 500 miles and changed the oil at 600 miles. In case you are wondering why I didn't do the oil change at the same time as the valves... Particles may have got into the engine during the valve adjustment. I wanted to let any possible particles work their way to the oil filter before the oil change. If you have the dealership do the work, doing it this way and bringing your bike in twice may cost you some extra cash. If you aren't confident enough to do your own valves, consider at least changing the oil yourself.
 

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Ok.... I do not have an oil filter wrench. The normal "grip of death" was no match for whoever welded the damn filter in place *wipes brow* I tried to double up on some rope like I have done in the past for auto and marine filter removal, that did not work either.

Any ideas... or do I need to drive another hour+ to a cycle shop to get a proper oil filter wrench?
 

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I used a plumbers strap wrench
Had to google that.... we have those at work! To bad there too damn big for this application and i'm also on my week off :p I'll see if they have them at the local hardware and are not marked up 3 times fold :/

The rope wrap I tried is basically the same idea, but with out the leverage bar. Thanks for the tip/info
 

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Had to google that.... we have those at work! To bad there too damn big for this application and i'm also on my week off :p I'll see if they have them at the local hardware and are not marked up 3 times fold :/

The rope wrap I tried is basically the same idea, but with out the leverage bar. Thanks for the tip/info
Here's another strap wrench you can use for those interested, this is the one I use and is small enough to fit underneath the carriage of the bike without having to lift it. The 1/2" is sufficient enough to do the job. Added this post to the FAQ too.... :D





http://www.dmctools.com/catalog/strap_wrenches.htm
 

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Ya, strap wrench or filter-pliers; Harbor Freight sells both.

Cheers
 

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If they use this wrong, or don't know how to use it correctly (putting it over the actual filter), they can crush the filter... saw a beginner do this when I turned my back when we were changing his oil... :rolleyes:


Maybe pointing out to them the best way to use this would be the best way to explain the use of this tool. Some are beginners at changing out their oil.
 

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Feel free to crush the filter unless you plan to reuse it :rolleyes:.

James, if you really feel the need I'll leave the explanations to you ;).
Nope, was hoping you would do it instead of just throwing it out there like you usually do...
 

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If they use this wrong, or don't know how to use it correctly (putting it over the actual filter), they can crush the filter... saw a beginner do this when I turned my back when we were changing his oil... :rolleyes:


Maybe pointing out to them the best way to use this would be the best way to explain the use of this tool. Some are beginners at changing out their oil.
Are you kidding me?

What a goober.......:eek:
 

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Ok I picked up this dohicky at the local parts store


I was going to use my channel locks but they were a tad bit too small :/ And I doubt I will reuse the old filter so instructions to avoid possible damage from a basic tool to a spent filter is really not needed.

After I was done and ate breakfast I drained my catch pan into a jug for recycling and found extra parts woohoo!
 

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This won't fit on my ABS Fury since I only have 3/8" end clearance :( (filter to charcoal canister). How much clearance do you have Ben ?
Quite a bit... Only thing in the way was some hose that I just pushed over a bit. I only used that tool to break free the filter enough to finish it off by hand. I don't have an exact measurement because I was cramped up on some cement pavers between the bike and the house and really could not lay down to get a good look with that I was working with.

*EDIT*
I don't think there was a charcoal canister under there *shrugs* I could be wrong though.
 

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After I was done and ate breakfast I drained my catch pan into a jug for recycling and found extra parts woohoo!
Hope you put on a new one, that would be the crush washer from one of the drain plugs (there are 2 fyi for those that have not done an oil change)
Those stamped out round ones are no good because when the filter is tight, the flats of the filter deflect and the "wrench" just slips around.
I use these every day, did 4 oil changes this morning, and they work perfectly on the OEM filters, and I have had to hit some with a persuader to get the filter off. The filter should not be torqued that tight.
This won't fit on my ABS Fury since I only have 3/8" end clearance :( (filter to charcoal canister). How much clearance do you have Ben ?
That is why you need the one I posted, they were made initially for the Goldwings (the manual says to remove the front lower cowl to get filter off), this wrench slips right in.
 
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