thanks for the info, this should help some people out and I will add it to the FAQ 
Kury Chrome Engine Kit Tips - how I got around the bugs
Thanks to everyone here I was alert to the problems fitting the chrome engine kit. There are two or three things to do to get it on right the first time.
1) Clutch cable- if you have Canella risers you will need to re-route the cable behind the bars if you want to get full right hand lock on the bars. I found this out after I got the left side on and checked everything, so it came off and I re- routed the cable.
2) Right rear cover sits too high with stock double sided tape - yep it does. I got some thinner double sided tape (about 2/3 of the thickness) from my local Super Cheap Auto parts store before I started so I was ready for this. Fits perfectly with the correct tape.
3) Lower right side small screw on cover - thanks to RSS for the heads up on the screw. I noticed the way the nut was welded on meant the screw would not go through unless you either stripped the thread or used a self tapper. The thread is M5 x 0.8 which is fairly standard in a metric place like Aus so I happened to have the right tap in my tap and die set. I went through the hole and cut a thread on the chrome plate (the nut was on a little crooked) and the screw went in smoothly. I tested this before I put it on the bike so it ended up going on easily.
I hope some of these points can help you out if you find yourself fitting one in your garage sometime.
1) Clutch cable- if you have Canella risers you will need to re-route the cable behind the bars if you want to get full right hand lock on the bars. I found this out after I got the left side on and checked everything, so it came off and I re- routed the cable.
2) Right rear cover sits too high with stock double sided tape - yep it does. I got some thinner double sided tape (about 2/3 of the thickness) from my local Super Cheap Auto parts store before I started so I was ready for this. Fits perfectly with the correct tape.
3) Lower right side small screw on cover - thanks to RSS for the heads up on the screw. I noticed the way the nut was welded on meant the screw would not go through unless you either stripped the thread or used a self tapper. The thread is M5 x 0.8 which is fairly standard in a metric place like Aus so I happened to have the right tap in my tap and die set. I went through the hole and cut a thread on the chrome plate (the nut was on a little crooked) and the screw went in smoothly. I tested this before I put it on the bike so it ended up going on easily.
I hope some of these points can help you out if you find yourself fitting one in your garage sometime.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
What is the purpose of using the tap? Was it to make threads or chase ones that are already thar?
Yarrrr, good question... was it because the screw nut was in there crooked and you had to add threads somehow to the engine cover; or was there an issue with that particular nut... least that you noticed?What is the purpose of using the tap? Was it to make threads or chase ones that are already thar?
The nut was welded a bit off centre so I used a tap with the same thread as the nut and cut a thread on the chrome cover, that way it had a clean thread all the way through. Be sure to start from the rear (nut side) so that you don't stuff up the existing thread and you get it nice and straight.
The way the nut was put on, you could not get the screw to catch the thread of the nut. If you used more pressure to get the screw to catch the thread of the screw will strip out on the cover. Which is more or less what RSS experienced.
The way the nut was put on, you could not get the screw to catch the thread of the nut. If you used more pressure to get the screw to catch the thread of the screw will strip out on the cover. Which is more or less what RSS experienced.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
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