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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, here are just some notes and photos to help anyone out there who gets a L&M Fender with the Run/Turn/Brake light module. These tips can also be helpful if you get any other lights - LED, filament, whatever - so you know which wires to cut.

Firstly, the Run/Turn/Brake light that I got with my L&M fender is the red run/brake and the amber turn signals. There are four wires clearly mentioned in the instructions:
Red - Brake
Blue - Left Turn
Black - Ground
Yellow - Right Turn
Next, when you disconnect the connectors so as to remove the entire rear light assembly, you will have three plugs left unattached:
Orange 2-pin Plug - Orange Wire (hot), Dark Green Wire w/ Silver spots (Ground) - Left Turn
Light Blue 2-pin Plug - Blue Wire (hot), Dark Green Wire w/ Silver spots (Ground) - Right Turn

Opaque 3-pin Plug - Green Wire w/ Yellow stripe (brake), Brown w/ Silver spots (Run), Dark Green w/ Silver spots (Ground)

Lastly, when you have the Run/Brake light combo in one LED, you will also receive a wire set called a Dual Element.
This is a pair of wires that leads to a single wire (sort of a Y connector):
Red Adjacent ----------\
........................\
.........................>-------------- Red Solo
......................../
Orange Adjacent -------/
Update: I thought the following was correct about the dual-element setup:
Embedded in the shrink tubing where they're joined is probably a diode to ensure when the brake is used, the +12V coming from the brake line doesn't back feed the constant +12V running light line. There is also a resistor to cut the voltage to something lower than +12V for just the running lights (Thanks for that clarification Clueless). When the running lights are on, the Run/Brake LED module probably gets +6V and produces a nice and bright running light. When the brake is applied, an additional +6V feeds into that Y-type connection creating +12V to the LED to - obviously - increase the lights' intensity for braking. Anyway, I digress.
I have since tested the line for the voltage with ignition on and then with brakes applied and I'm not seeing a voltage increase, at all. However, I am seeing a current jump from running - 32mA (0.032A) - to braking 54mA (0.054A).

However you are most comfortable splitting the original wiring harness to possibly reduce the amount of wire you need to tuck away - that's your call. But, when all is said and you're sitting with cut wires, here's how you tie them together:
Harness Orange Wire -----------------------> LED/Fender Blue wire
Harness Light Blue Wire -------------------> LED/Fender Yellow Wire
Harness Dark Green w/ Silver spots Wires --> LED/Fender Black Wire
Harness Green w/ Yellow stripe Wire -------> Dual Element Red Adjacent Wire
Harness Brown w/ Silver spots Wire --------> Dual Element Orange Adjacent Wire
Dual Element Red Solo Wire ----------------> LED/Fender Red Wire
Using a Trailer Harness for a Quick Connect:
Later in this thread did I come to realize and mention that I needed to do a better job of connecting these wires. I found a trailer light extension kit (32" long) that made me realize this was the best solution. What better weather-tight connector should reside under my fender (rhetorical question).

So, here's that harness:
Trailer Lights 32" Extender


One issue was that I was trying to create a 4-pin to 4-pin connector mating system. This extension, I realized after I got it home, did NOT have the ground pin on one end of this extension. In the end, that was ok. I just tied all the ground wires in the original harness to the frame. I then butchered this harness' ground wire to get that screw-loop and attached it to the ground lead on the Radiantz light (black) wire.

So, I cut the harness in half and use one end to attach to the factory harness and I used the other half to attach it to the Radiantz run/brake & turn wires.

Taking the above wiring information I stated, here it is updated for the trailer harness wires (THW) incorporated:
Harness Orange Wire -----------------------> LED/Fender Blue wire (via Brown THW)
Harness Light Blue Wire -------------------> LED/Fender Yellow Wire (via Yellow THW)
Harness Dark Green w/ Silver spots Wires --> LED/Fender Black Wire
Harness Green w/ Yellow stripe Wire -------> Dual Element Red Adjacent Wire
Harness Brown w/ Silver spots Wire --------> Dual Element Orange Adjacent Wire
Dual Element Red Solo Wire ----------------> LED/Fender Red Wire (via Green THW)
Tucking and Storing Wires:
This section of the how-to is how I ran the wires.

First, using the guide above, I connected all the wires accordingly - including my Kisan Tech SM-3 (wiring map below) - after cutting a lot of excess wire out of the original harness.

Next, I used a 32" long trailer light connector to make a better quick-disconnect for this whole wiring fiasco.

Here is the underside of the fender where I placed a yellow mark for which to aim to run the wires from the Radiantz light. I did NOT want to run dead center and pinch the wire where the rear seat/pinnion screw meets flush with the fender. You see - the fender sits atop the three screw mounts for the seat & pinnion, so there's a slight gap between the frame and the fender for the wires to be run w/o rubbing. Anyway, that photo:


Here is a pic of the preliminary tape-down of the wire right on target:


Here I did a dry-fit of the fender to make sure my wires were long enough to mate-up:


This is the final tape-down using Aluminum Refrigeration Tape (very sticky):

Use a credit card or semi-hard plastic edge to run across the tape where it meets the fender to ensure the glue beads on the tape are activated for proper and extreme adhesion.

After installing the fender, I was able to connect the trailer connector to complete three of the connections ...


... the fourth connection was Ground - and I tied that directly to the frame with its own dedicated wire (because the fourth connection in this trailer extension kit was not included):


Kisan Tech SM-3 Turn Signal Cancellation Module:
If you have the Kisan Tech turn cancellation module for your bike, the wires you need to splice with the provided splicers are as follows:
Harness Orange Wire --------------------> Kisan Black wire
Harness Light Blue Wire ----------------> Kisan White Wire
Harness Green w/ Yellow stripe Wire ----> Kisan Red Wire

I really hope this helps someone - especially those who are typically intimidated by electrical mods. This really isn't that difficult. The hardest part was finding a way to store all the wire from the harness AND the fender.

As usual, post questions and I or someone else in the know will answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Reserved for YouTube Videos of Run/Turn/Brake w/ Kisan Tech

Here's my full demonstration of the Radiantz light that came with the Low & Mean Reaper Fender in conjunction with the Kisan Tech SM-3 Signal Minder I had already once installed on this bike. It remained connected to the same Fury harness wires and the proper behavior carried over, simply, to the Radiantz LED lights. Very, very please!!

 

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Anybody thinking of doing this setup needs to thank Alan for this post!!! What a great DIY !!! Hat's off, Alan.
 

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My fender will be here Saturday. When the turn signals are off, is the LED completely red or is the just no light where the turn signals would be?
 

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I'd hoped to be needing this post tonight.:(

Hey Alan, you remember that Fedex truck that didn't stop at your house, well, the sob went by mine at about 70mph......no, actually don't think he even drove by at all. Back to square 1.:mad:
 

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Very nice. I am thinking of going this route to avoid spending $280 on the Raw kit. I like how the signals are still amber. Thank you for posting this up. I will probably be referencing this soon as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good job mang.
Scott: What is that avatar??!! :p

I'd hoped to be needing this post tonight.:(

Hey Alan, you remember that Fedex truck that didn't stop at your house, well, the sob went by mine at about 70mph......no, actually don't think he even drove by at all. Back to square 1.:mad:
Henry: Some said I had the patience of Job. God only knows what level of patience you qualify to be compared to ... 'cause you had me beat.

Contact Bob (WoodenHorse) and give him permission to retrieve your fender, if you haven't already.

My fender will be here Saturday. When the turn signals are off, is the LED completely red or is the just no light where the turn signals would be?
When the turn signals are off, there is a very dim amber. Remember, your lights in the back with the dual-filament are running lights on one filament and turn signals with the brighter filament. This mimics that.
 

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Very nice job Alan. This should be very helpful to many that will be changing out their tail light in the future. Here is a simple and helful link I used to make a dual element circuit by use of a couple of diodes and a resister that can be purchased at your local radio shack.
Dual Circuit Element Bareass Choppers Tech Pages
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Very nice job Alan. This should be very helpful to many that will be changing out their tail light in the future. Here is a simple and helful link I used to make a dual element circuit by use of a couple of diodes and a resister that can be purchased at your local radio shack.
Dual Circuit Element Bareass Choppers Tech Pages
Great write up and description. Thanks!

Thanks guys!

Dave, that's a great link to complement this how-to!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Unsettled by the way I left the wiring last night in haste to finish putting the fender on my bike, I went back this morning to re-visit what could I do ... I HAD to improve on the wiring nightmare.

This morning, as I scoured Advance Auto Parts for a 4-pin male/female connector for the fender lights, I happened to have a genius moment.

What better 4-pin, weather proof connector is there than that of a trailer's light connector?!

So, I bought this 32" extension ...

... and will butcher it to make a keyed connector to plug and unplug easily and as needed.

p.s.: Almost genius. One end of this setup does not have the fourth pin in the connector. But, that's ok ... I'll solve that. It's the ground wire.


Back to the garage ...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For those already subscribed to this thread, this post is merely to kick a notification to you that I have substantially updated the primary post with more photos and instructions now that I cleanly ran the wiring with the use of a trailer light connector harness.

Now I'm completely pleased with the final assembly.

(if you re-arrange A.L.A.N. you can spell A.N.A.L. :rolleyes:) :p
 

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Thanks for the information. I was looking for something like this but a friend had told me that with the Radiantz led you can not see it in the daylight. Is this true? Also, will it work with the stock fender. Thanks again, Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the information. I was looking for something like this but a friend had told me that with the Radiantz led you can not see it in the daylight. Is this true? Also, will it work with the stock fender. Thanks again, Paul
It is not the brightest as a running light in the daylight, but the brake and turn signals are bright as hell in the daylight. I suspect I'll detach someone's retinas tonight on the way home from Bike Nite :p


Looks awesome!:D

Nice info really A+ Alan!
Thank you, thank you very much. (my text-based Elvis impression :rolleyes:)
 

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Dang I haven't done this much reading since I read Lonesome Dove. Great job Alan I think I could do it with these instructions and I hate electrical work. I like the use of the trailer connection too. Very smart idea;)
 
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