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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so it seem like this has been an on going issue that needs to be fixed. People who want to replace their speedos or completely remove them are left with no way of telling how much fuel is left in the tank. Any of the aftermarket gauge clusters have fuel level indicators and our bikes dont have fuel level senders, so that option is out. Other people are trying to use the check engine light typically indicated as a "E" and wire it into the existing low fuel light so it then stands for "EMPTY" in theory. Then others are trying to hook up an external led light to mount in various locations. All the threads seem to have no ending in how to get it to operate. The only outcome we have come across is that once wired up the light stays permentaly ON. Why is this? The stock speedo must have a series of resistors inside to make it work how honda designed it.

*****I AM NOT AN ELECTRICAL ENGINEER NEITHER ARE 99% OF THE PEOPLE LOOKING FOR ANSWERS SO IM GOING TO TRY TO EXPLAINE IT AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE******

Our fuel tanks have a thermistor inside of it which is basically a temperature sensitive switch. When cool there is high resistance, when hot there is low resistance. So when the tank is full of fuel it is cooling the thermistor and as the fuel level drains the thermistor is exposed and heats up.

Why simply putting an LED in line won't work:
LEDS work off low current, they will light up with the tiniest amount of power. Everyone thinks that the thermistor circuit is 100% open when tank is full (no ground) and when it heats up and the resistance is lowered then the ground is applied to complete the circuit. It seems like it is always grounded Full or Empty, but its the amount of resistance allowed through too trigger the OEM light. Sooooo if it always has a potential ground, and an LED requires the smallest current in the world, then that's why the LED is always lit.

Use a Relay:
Other posts have mentioned using a resistor in parallel with the LED. Problem is figuring out what resistor is needed. Some say they used a 5w 82ohm and it worked. Not all thermistors are made equal, so whatever resistor that may work for a fury, may not work for a rebel, shadow, etc. Another theory that was out on the world wide web was to use a simple 4 pin relay. The idea behind it is that the small amount of current that passes through the thermistor when the tank is full is not enough to trip the relay. Once it heats up then there is enough to apply a full ground, trip the relay, and then turn on whatever light/accessory you have connected. I tested this way with 3 different LEDS and so far it has worked! Currently I have a full tank and the LED is off. I drained the fuel at the fuel pump and BOOM light turns on. Filled it back up and BAM the light goes off.......VERY VERY precise testing I know, lol but its simple and works.

The only real measure is time. We will see how well this works over the course of the season. Essentially you can use this method for the "check engine light" or any amber light on the aftermarket gauge clusters, or any remote led you wish to use. I couldn't have gotten to this end result without the help from the members on this forum especially Kbuskill and Clueless.











 

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Excellent work GunShow. I had all but given up on trying different wiring scenarios for fear of frying something. I am, by no stretch of the imagination, an electrician... so this helps alot. Thnx...
 

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Ok so it seem like this has been an on going issue that needs to be fixed. People who want to replace their speedos or completely remove them are left with no way of telling how much fuel is left in the tank. Any of the aftermarket gauge clusters have fuel level indicators and our bikes dont have fuel level senders, so that option is out. Other people are trying to use the check engine light typically indicated as a "E" and wire it into the existing low fuel light so it then stands for "EMPTY" in theory. Then others are trying to hook up an external led light to mount in various locations. All the threads seem to have no ending in how to get it to operate. The only outcome we have come across is that once wired up the light stays permentaly ON. Why is this? The stock speedo must have a series of resistors inside to make it work how honda designed it.

I AM NOT AN ELECTRICAL ENGINEER NEITHER ARE 99% OF THE PEOPLE LOOKING FOR ANSWERS SO IM GOING TO TRY TO EXPLAINE IT AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE*

Our fuel tanks have a thermistor inside of it which is basically a temperature sensitive switch. When cool there is high resistance, when hot there is low resistance. So when the tank is full of fuel it is cooling the thermistor and as the fuel level drains the thermistor is exposed and heats up.

Why simply putting an LED in line won't work:
LEDS work off low current, they will light up with the tiniest amount of power. Everyone thinks that the thermistor circuit is 100% open when tank is full (no ground) and when it heats up and the resistance is lowered then the ground is applied to complete the circuit. It seems like it is always grounded Full or Empty, but its the amount of resistance allowed through too trigger the OEM light. Sooooo if it always has a potential ground, and an LED requires the smallest current in the world, then that's why the LED is always lit.

Use a Relay:
Other posts have mentioned using a resistor in parallel with the LED. Problem is figuring out what resistor is needed. Some say they used a 5w 82ohm and it worked. Not all thermistors are made equal, so whatever resistor that may work for a fury, may not work for a rebel, shadow, etc. Another theory that was out on the world wide web was to use a simple 4 pin relay. The idea behind it is that the small amount of current that passes through the thermistor when the tank is full is not enough to trip the relay. Once it heats up then there is enough to apply a full ground, trip the relay, and then turn on whatever light/accessory you have connected. I tested this way with 3 different LEDS and so far it has worked! Currently I have a full tank and the LED is off. I drained the fuel at the fuel pump and BOOM light turns on. Filled it back up and BAM the light goes off.......VERY VERY precise testing I know, lol but its simple and works.

The only real measure is time. We will see how well this works over the course of the season. Essentially you can use this method for the "check engine light" or any amber light on the aftermarket gauge clusters, or any remote led you wish to use. I couldn't have gotten to this end result without the help from the members on this forum especially Kbuskill and Clueless.











I know it has been a while since your write up on this. Has the relay installation worked without any problems? I'm getting ready to do the same on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know it has been a while since your write up on this. Has the relay installation worked without any problems? I'm getting ready to do the same on mine.
Has worked flawlessly for the past 3 years. Honestly after the first couple of rides I forgot that it wasn’t factory.
 

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Ok so it seem like this has been an on going issue that needs to be fixed. People who want to replace their speedos or completely remove them are left with no way of telling how much fuel is left in the tank. Any of the aftermarket gauge clusters have fuel level indicators and our bikes dont have fuel level senders, so that option is out. Other people are trying to use the check engine light typically indicated as a "E" and wire it into the existing low fuel light so it then stands for "EMPTY" in theory. Then others are trying to hook up an external led light to mount in various locations. All the threads seem to have no ending in how to get it to operate. The only outcome we have come across is that once wired up the light stays permentaly ON. Why is this? The stock speedo must have a series of resistors inside to make it work how honda designed it.

I AM NOT AN ELECTRICAL ENGINEER NEITHER ARE 99% OF THE PEOPLE LOOKING FOR ANSWERS SO IM GOING TO TRY TO EXPLAINE IT AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE*

Our fuel tanks have a thermistor inside of it which is basically a temperature sensitive switch. When cool there is high resistance, when hot there is low resistance. So when the tank is full of fuel it is cooling the thermistor and as the fuel level drains the thermistor is exposed and heats up.

Why simply putting an LED in line won't work:
LEDS work off low current, they will light up with the tiniest amount of power. Everyone thinks that the thermistor circuit is 100% open when tank is full (no ground) and when it heats up and the resistance is lowered then the ground is applied to complete the circuit. It seems like it is always grounded Full or Empty, but its the amount of resistance allowed through too trigger the OEM light. Sooooo if it always has a potential ground, and an LED requires the smallest current in the world, then that's why the LED is always lit.

Use a Relay:
Other posts have mentioned using a resistor in parallel with the LED. Problem is figuring out what resistor is needed. Some say they used a 5w 82ohm and it worked. Not all thermistors are made equal, so whatever resistor that may work for a fury, may not work for a rebel, shadow, etc. Another theory that was out on the world wide web was to use a simple 4 pin relay. The idea behind it is that the small amount of current that passes through the thermistor when the tank is full is not enough to trip the relay. Once it heats up then there is enough to apply a full ground, trip the relay, and then turn on whatever light/accessory you have connected. I tested this way with 3 different LEDS and so far it has worked! Currently I have a full tank and the LED is off. I drained the fuel at the fuel pump and BOOM light turns on. Filled it back up and BAM the light goes off.......VERY VERY precise testing I know, lol but its simple and works.

The only real measure is time. We will see how well this works over the course of the season. Essentially you can use this method for the "check engine light" or any amber light on the aftermarket gauge clusters, or any remote led you wish to use. I couldn't have gotten to this end result without the help from the members on this forum especially Kbuskill and Clueless.











I have to give you two thumbs up for your write up. I used the relay for the low fuel and it's perfect. I really appreciate the time you put into this. I always wanted to do away with the speedo, but had no way of knowing when I was low on fuel. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have to give you two thumbs up for your write up. I used the relay for the low fuel and it's perfect. I really appreciate the time you put into this. I always wanted to do away with the speedo, but had no way of knowing when I was low on fuel. Thanks again.
Hey if it helped at least 1 person I’m happy! Glad it worked out for you, and I hope my write up was easy enough to follow. Removing the speedo or just putting something on smaller deff finishes off the look of the custom bike Honda was shooting for. I’ve had a lot of people ask me where all my gauges and lights are while out riding and they are surprised as hell when i show they the setup
 

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Hey if it helped at least 1 person I’m happy! Glad it worked out for you, and I hope my write up was easy enough to follow. Removing the speedo or just putting something on smaller deff finishes off the look of the custom bike Honda was shooting for. I’ve had a lot of people ask me where all my gauges and lights are while out riding and they are surprised as hell when i show they the setup
I actually bought a Cobra PowrFlo intake, but didn't care for the black throttle body cover, so I made one out of .06 stainless. I just need to add the holes for my LEDs. I have my garage door opener there already, I just want to keep everything together.
IMG_20200601_144609000.jpg
 

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Ok so it seem like this has been an on going issue that needs to be fixed. People who want to replace their speedos or completely remove them are left with no way of telling how much fuel is left in the tank. Any of the aftermarket gauge clusters have fuel level indicators and our bikes dont have fuel level senders, so that option is out. Other people are trying to use the check engine light typically indicated as a "E" and wire it into the existing low fuel light so it then stands for "EMPTY" in theory. Then others are trying to hook up an external led light to mount in various locations. All the threads seem to have no ending in how to get it to operate. The only outcome we have come across is that once wired up the light stays permentaly ON. Why is this? The stock speedo must have a series of resistors inside to make it work how honda designed it.

I AM NOT AN ELECTRICAL ENGINEER NEITHER ARE 99% OF THE PEOPLE LOOKING FOR ANSWERS SO IM GOING TO TRY TO EXPLAINE IT AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE*

Our fuel tanks have a thermistor inside of it which is basically a temperature sensitive switch. When cool there is high resistance, when hot there is low resistance. So when the tank is full of fuel it is cooling the thermistor and as the fuel level drains the thermistor is exposed and heats up.

Why simply putting an LED in line won't work:
LEDS work off low current, they will light up with the tiniest amount of power. Everyone thinks that the thermistor circuit is 100% open when tank is full (no ground) and when it heats up and the resistance is lowered then the ground is applied to complete the circuit. It seems like it is always grounded Full or Empty, but its the amount of resistance allowed through too trigger the OEM light. Sooooo if it always has a potential ground, and an LED requires the smallest current in the world, then that's why the LED is always lit.

Use a Relay:
Other posts have mentioned using a resistor in parallel with the LED. Problem is figuring out what resistor is needed. Some say they used a 5w 82ohm and it worked. Not all thermistors are made equal, so whatever resistor that may work for a fury, may not work for a rebel, shadow, etc. Another theory that was out on the world wide web was to use a simple 4 pin relay. The idea behind it is that the small amount of current that passes through the thermistor when the tank is full is not enough to trip the relay. Once it heats up then there is enough to apply a full ground, trip the relay, and then turn on whatever light/accessory you have connected. I tested this way with 3 different LEDS and so far it has worked! Currently I have a full tank and the LED is off. I drained the fuel at the fuel pump and BOOM light turns on. Filled it back up and BAM the light goes off.......VERY VERY precise testing I know, lol but its simple and works.

The only real measure is time. We will see how well this works over the course of the season. Essentially you can use this method for the "check engine light" or any amber light on the aftermarket gauge clusters, or any remote led you wish to use. I couldn't have gotten to this end result without the help from the members on this forum especially Kbuskill and Clueless.











I was wandering if you had to put a resistor in the neutral light. Mine stays on constantly when it's running. When it's not running it works properly.
 
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