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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, I've got a 2012 Fury with a little over 4,000 miles on it. It has an aftermarket exhaust and Cobra Fi2000 plug-in fuel gadget. I was out on it last week and after running for about an hour it developed a misfire on one cylinder which is particularly more noticeable when the engine is at the lower end of the rev range and under load. It's an issue that was still there when I went out on the bike yesterday, so it's not going away on its own. As I accelerate it reaches a certain number of revs then the other cylinder comes back on line resulting in a surge of power (obviously) and it runs ok at higher revs. I checked the plugs and they were all ok, the right color etc. I also checked the Fi2000; the connections appear good and the unit's self-check using the three little lights when you start the bike works as it should. Not sure what to look at next. I have a feeling it's a fuel problem as when the bike is cold it runs a lot better (presumably because the choke makes the mixture richer?), but after a few minutes when the bike has warmed up the problem creeps back. Any one experienced this before or got any ideas what I can look at next?

Thanks very much - Dave
 

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I suggest removing the Cobra fuel controller and seeing if that solves the problem. Given previous reports and your troubleshooting, I suspect that's the source of the issues.

Aftermarket controllers aren't usually made to the same rugged specifications as OEM. Circuitry is subjected to high heat, vibration, and thermal stress (heat/cool cycles), and some manufacturer's products fail prematurely. OEM ECUs tend to outlive the vehicle, aftermarket electronics (in general) often do not.

Another consideration is the connections. OEM units use water resistant or waterproof plugs, aftermarket tends to use T-taps which are notorious for corrosion, intermittent connections, broken wires, and premature failure. If you find a questionable connection when removing the Cobra fuel controller repair/replace it. Low-to-high reliability is: t-tap, stripped/twisted wire, Posi-Locks, soldering, adapter harness.
 

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If I recall the Fi2000 had waterproof connectors. I don't suspect it's those connections as the harness seemed to be built pretty solid. The board in the box could have some solder connection failures also.

But yeah remove that first as @WI_Hedgehog stated. Then it's on to fuel if that doesn't solve the problem. Since the issue just showed up out of the blue I'm guessing maybe you got a bad batch of fuel. I would drain the tank completely and put in some good fuel...run a bit of seafoam through it or some K-100 MG. Re-check there.

If that doesn't work, I'd replace the plugs and wires even though they LOOK good. They're a wear item anyway.
Finally no go there, I would dive into the fuel filter. It may be the old style setup and could be collecting sediment in the bottom. You'd replace to the new configuration after you clean out the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, I've removed the Cobra after-market gadget been out for a good 45 minute run, up and down inclines, pulling away from a stop etc and unfortunately I've still got the same problem. I'll have to move on to trying something else...I'm guessing that if it was the fuel filter that surely would affect both cylinders, not just one of them?
 

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So, I've removed the Cobra after-market gadget been out for a good 45 minute run, up and down inclines, pulling away from a stop etc and unfortunately I've still got the same problem. I'll have to move on to trying something else...I'm guessing that if it was the fuel filter that surely would affect both cylinders, not just one of them?
Just curious, how do you know that it only affects one cylinder?

I'm assuming it's very rhythmic.

Have you tried swapping the coil packs around under the tank?

If you swap the coil packs and the problem moves to the other cylinder then the coil maybe having intermittent issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think it only affects one cylinder because the engine still runs, albeit roughly, and when I accelerate the bike pulls away then as the revs rise the other cylinder comes 'online' and the power increases very noticeably. Also when I decelerate, I only get a single backfire, and I'm guessing that I'd get more than one backfire both cylinders were running rough? Not an exact science, I know, and you raise a valid point...

I would try swapping over the coil packs but I can't tell which cylinder is actually backfiring, so unless I know, I can't validate that the swapping of the coil packs also moves the problem to the other cylinder.

I did some reading on the VT owners forum (very similar engines to the Fury, aren't they?) and they suggested for a problem like mine, checking the wires going into the ECM as the green and black ones are prone to breaking. I don't know what to try apart from keep looking or just bite the bullet and take it to my local Honda dealer (who unfortunately I don't really rate, to be honest).
 

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I think it only affects one cylinder because the engine still runs, albeit roughly, and when I accelerate the bike pulls away then as the revs rise the other cylinder comes 'online' and the power increases very noticeably. Also when I decelerate, I only get a single backfire, and I'm guessing that I'd get more than one backfire both cylinders were running rough? Not an exact science, I know, and you raise a valid point...

I would try swapping over the coil packs but I can't tell which cylinder is actually backfiring, so unless I know, I can't validate that the swapping of the coil packs also moves the problem to the other cylinder.

I did some reading on the VT owners forum (very similar engines to the Fury, aren't they?) and they suggested for a problem like mine, checking the wires going into the ECM as the green and black ones are prone to breaking. I don't know what to try apart from keep looking or just bite the bullet and take it to my local Honda dealer (who unfortunately I don't really rate, to be honest).
While the engines are very similar between our VT1300 and the VTX1300 the ECUs are completely different.

The VTX is a carbureted engine that runs a CDI box essentially, while our engines are fuel injected and runs a full ECU.

It would be nice if you had a spark tester to install on one of your plug wires so that while you were riding it and it was acting up you could see if you have spark on that cylinder.

They are fairly cheap if you don't have one...
JND Spark Tester Fool-Proof Engine Ignition Amazon.com: JND Spark Tester Fool-Proof Engine Ignition: Automotive

It just plugs inline between your plug and plug wire.

235821
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well,the latest news is that it turned out to be the spark plugs that were at fault. I put a new set of plugs in and tried the bike again today and it ran fine. I can't believe that the plugs were the cause of the symptoms I experienced, but you learn something new every day. I guess the old plugs were probably also the original ones from 2012 when the bike was new (It's still only done 4,300 miles) so they must have deteriorated with age. Big thank you to everyone who posted in reply to my problem I'm very grateful for your insights. Regards, Dave
 

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Well,the latest news is that it turned out to be the spark plugs that were at fault. I put a new set of plugs in and tried the bike again today and it ran fine. I can't believe that the plugs were the cause of the symptoms I experienced, but you learn something new every day. I guess the old plugs were probably also the original ones from 2012 when the bike was new (It's still only done 4,300 miles) so they must have deteriorated with age. Big thank you to everyone who posted in reply to my problem I'm very grateful for your insights. Regards, Dave
What's the go to replacement spark plug these days for the Fury? At 6552 miles it sounds like I might be due for a new set. Guess they just don't build them like they used to. We used to clean 'em up with a little gas, sandpaper, and a quick gap (usually by sight or a match book cover) and they were always good to go. What's the best brand and what type do most Fury Forum members use?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I bought the same Denso spark plugs that were in the bike when I bought it. They were really cheap on eBay so i don't mind replacing them at regular intervals.
 

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Even in Australia NGK plugs are reasonably priced. Std NGK plugs are about $7 to 10 ( $5 on special) and iridium are about $20 each.
 

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They are about $3-4 here (each)
We get ripped off on everything here in Oz. Don't even think about property in our capital cities unless you happen to have at least $2 million. Heck a knock down rebuild in the "cheaper" part of Sydney's northern beaches is 1.5 to 1.9 Million! Then you have knock down the old house to build the house so that's another $500k at least. Those $7 spark plugs seem like small change after you buy a home.....o_O
 
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