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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Situation is
April of this year I purchased used 2013 Fury from Honda dealer. Everything was good for about a month. Then bike would not start. Pulled battery from bike to charge and charged to 13.2v Put battery back in and fired bike up once. Shut down bike would not start. Removed battery from bike and charged again. This time when disconnecting battery from charger, I put my volt meter to it. Charge immediately dropped to less than 12v. Fast forward after replacing battery with new OEM battery. Bike sat for about a week because of constant rain. Went to fire it up for a short ride, would not start. Charged battery and I have the same process over as I did on the old battery.
Now deductive reasoning would lead me to the rectifier being bad and over charging the battery as both old and new batteries have done the same thing. Could I be wrong?
 

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When you say "would not start", how exactly? Does it crank without starting? Does it crank but sound like the starter is laboring? (IE: as if the battery were low.) Does it crank once, but then not enough battery charge to attempt another crank? Does it "tick tick tick" without cranking?

Was the first battery new from the dealer? Where did the second battery come from and could it have been sitting for a long time at the seller? And lastly, what charger are you using?
 

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When you say "would not start", how exactly? Does it crank without starting? Does it crank but sound like the starter is laboring? (IE: as if the battery were low.) Does it crank once, but then not enough battery charge to attempt another crank? Does it "tick tick tick" without cranking?

Was the first battery new from the dealer? Where did the second battery come from and could it have been sitting for a long time at the seller? And lastly, what charger are you using?
ALL very good questions .... we need to know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When you say "would not start", how exactly? Does it crank without starting? Does it crank but sound like the starter is laboring? (IE: as if the battery were low.) Does it crank once, but then not enough battery charge to attempt another crank? Does it "tick tick tick" without cranking?

Was the first battery new from the dealer? Where did the second battery come from and could it have been sitting for a long time at the seller? And lastly, what charger are you using?
It cranked one time. After that the warning light on the Speedo just flashed really fast. First battery was used and came with the bike. New battery was an OEM battery. I’m assuming that everything was fine until the rectifier overcharged the new battery. I charged the batter with a Schumacher Rapid charger/tender. After letting battery sit over night in my living room the charge dropped to 11.7v. I know that it must have a 12.4v constant charge to be a good battery. It does not crank anymore.
 

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Yeah. So, OEM batteries aren't the best. They barely have enough capacity, and cranking amps for what the bike should have. As the guys above said, it could be the OEM battery if its been sitting for a very long time on the shelf. Or the rectifier. There's lots of google advice on testing the rectifier. I believe its the other way around, a bad rectifier will discharge your battery (which can also damage a lead acid...)

Hopefully your battery is still under warranty and you can take it back and replace it. The rectifier is a cheap replacement if that is indeed the issue.

In future, all of us here, will recommend you eventually switch to a lithium-iron battery like the earthx etx36c. They're expensive, but put out a crapload of cranking amps which the fury starter likes, and has circuitry to protect against overcharging and excessive discharging.
 

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I would be a good idea to check that the battery is being charged by the bike. Measure the battery voltage in the bike with a multimeter. Start the bike and measure the voltage at the battery again. The voltage should be higher than your first reading, typically 14 to 16V. If you get no change or a drop in voltage then you have a bad charging system. Below is from the service manual.

Font Rectangle Circle Number Document
 

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In future, all of us here, will recommend you eventually switch to a lithium-iron battery like the earthx etx36c. They're expensive, but put out a crapload of cranking amps which the fury starter likes, and has circuitry to protect against overcharging and excessive discharging.
Not all of us here, I never ran anything but Yuasa batteries, and never any problem.
 

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Not all of us here, I never ran anything but Yuasa batteries, and never any problem.
Ran the original Yuasa battery in my DN-01, even after it sat in a Conex Box to be shipped overseas, for 8 YEARS before it gave up the ghost, Going back to a Yuasa battery once I find the time to take most of the plastic off the Dino. (Honda made the bike look pretty BUT failed in making it user friendly for battery replacement!)
 

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Situation is
April of this year I purchased used 2013 Fury from Honda dealer. Everything was good for about a month. Then bike would not start. Pulled battery from bike to charge and charged to 13.2v Put battery back in and fired bike up once. Shut down bike would not start. Removed battery from bike and charged again. This time when disconnecting battery from charger, I put my volt meter to it. Charge immediately dropped to less than 12v. Fast forward after replacing battery with new OEM battery. Bike sat for about a week because of constant rain. Went to fire it up for a short ride, would not start. Charged battery and I have the same process over as I did on the old battery.
Now deductive reasoning would lead me to the rectifier being bad and over charging the battery as both old and new batteries have done the same thing. Could I be wrong?
I think you are looking for the complicated answer. Always start with a known good battery. I doubt your regulator / rectifier is bad and unless you are over 50,000 miles the stator is probably also good.
From personal experience, I would also recommend that you stay with Honda OEM parts (particularly the regulator / rectifier). I replaced mine with an aftermarket one and it proved to not be compatible with a Lithium battery and it fried virtually every electronic component on the bike including the ECM.

Good luck and I hope you find the issue.
 

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Thanks for the info everyone. Took warranty battery to the dealer and they checked it out and did a load test and it failed miserably. They said they have had a few OEM batteries come back the same way.
OEM's are well know for delivering vehicles with shitty batteries. Not just motorcycles. They are usually blemish units, and due to how the supply chain works, they are made up to a year before your bike.

Hope it works now with a decent battery
 

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Hello everyone, I was perusing the forum looking for some battery advise. It's getting colder outside and my 2010 Fury acts like I feel on a cold morning... slow to start. I removed the battery and took it to see if it was bad... Battery Source said it was still GOOD. Putting the battery back in was a pain. Is there a trick to keep the rear battery nut from falling into the battery box???
 

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Put a bit of rubber behind the nut to hold it in place.
Thanks macxpert! One more question... I've only had to replace the battery a couple of times that I recall and the cranking amps just seems inadequate.. what's the next best option for a more powerful start? Thanks in advance and Happy Thanksgiving!!!
 

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Thanks macxpert! One more question... I've only had to replace the battery a couple of times that I recall and the cranking amps just seems inadequate.. what's the next best option for a more powerful start? Thanks in advance and Happy Thanksgiving!!!
Most folks opt for a lithium iron battery. My current one has 330 CCA.
 
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