Honda Fury Forums: banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Bike: 2013 Sabre (purchased brand new in 2015, still in crate)
Miles: 10,XXX
Oil: Rotella T6
Bike Mods:
PCV 16-025 (2dirty, AKA Ajay Patel map)
Cobra air-intake w/ K&N
Freedom Performance slash pipes
Battery Tender Lithium battery
Fender eliminator LED brake/turn signals (no resister so it fast blinks)
LED headlight
All mods were installed the day the bike was delivered to my house with 0 miles on it.

So back in September my battery died and I needed a jumpstart. Awkwardly enough, someone I went on a date with was also in the same parking lot and she gave me a jumpstart, twice. Once for to get to the gas station (needed gas) and then again leaving the gas station. When I got home I placed the Battery Tender Lithium battery on a battery tender from MotoBatt.

Few days go by and the tender light was green. I tried to start the bike and the battery was dead. Took the battery out and it was swollen.
Place a RMA with BatteryTender and after the processes is all over with, roughly a month has gone by.

Place the new battery, turn the bike on and took off. Traveled roughly 3.5 miles not exceeding 55MPH. Betwen 1,600-1,700 and again at roughly 2,200 RPMs I noticed the bike was stuttering, almost like if I was not getting fuel or misfiring (but not popping). There was sudden lost of power.

Let the bike sit for about an hour (at my destination) then got on the bike and the bike started doing it again, this time it was just after the bike warmed up.
Connected the laptop and this is how I was able to determine the RPMs when the stuttering starts.
I have noticed that the stuttering will not happen when bike is cold.

Between October and now this is what I have troubleshot:
Noticed the rear brake light and the running lights on the front turn signals were like pulsing from normal to brighter (but you had to really look to see it)
Placed a Zero map and issue did not go away. Removed PCV and issue went away. Dyno determined the PCV was bad. Got a new PCV (did the exchange for $200)
Placed a Zero map and issue did not happen. Placed the 007 map and the issue did not happen. Placed 2dirty's map and issue came back. Looking at his map, there are reduced/added fuel and timing changes. The Zero map and 007 map have no fuel reduction or changes in timing. This told me that there's either a clogged injector or electrical issue / timing issue. Lights were still pulsing.

Replaced spark plugs (previous ones were fine but changed anyways)
Ohms check on coils (within spec)
Voltage test on battery @ 5,000RPMs (13.3v-14.5v)
Diode test on rectifier: Forward test .1 on all three diodes (I can't find the correct specs or if a forward-bias test works on this rectifier)
Reverse-bias test: .4XX on all three diodes.

Today, after plugging everything back up and turned bike on, I've noticed the lights do not pulse anymore. The stuttering also was no longer happening so decided to take the bike for a test ride and got roughly 300ft then the bike dies. Turned key off, turned key on, bike fired up and drove it home.
Not really sure what else to do. Anything else I can test? Thanks in advance

Video of bike stuttering and also lights flickering:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,016 Posts
Bike: 2013 Sabre (purchased brand new in 2015, still in crate)
Miles: 10,XXX
Oil: Rotella T6
Bike Mods:
PCV 16-025 (2dirty, AKA Ajay Patel map)
Cobra air-intake w/ K&N
Freedom Performance slash pipes
Battery Tender Lithium battery
Fender eliminator LED brake/turn signals (no resister so it fast blinks)
LED headlight
All mods were installed the day the bike was delivered to my house with 0 miles on it.

So back in September my battery died and I needed a jumpstart. Awkwardly enough, someone I went on a date with was also in the same parking lot and she gave me a jumpstart, twice. Once for to get to the gas station (needed gas) and then again leaving the gas station. When I got home I placed the Battery Tender Lithium battery on a battery tender from MotoBatt.

Few days go by and the tender light was green. I tried to start the bike and the battery was dead. Took the battery out and it was swollen.
Place a RMA with BatteryTender and after the processes is all over with, roughly a month has gone by.

Place the new battery, turn the bike on and took off. Traveled roughly 3.5 miles not exceeding 55MPH. Betwen 1,600-1,700 and again at roughly 2,200 RPMs I noticed the bike was stuttering, almost like if I was not getting fuel or misfiring (but not popping). There was sudden lost of power.

Let the bike sit for about an hour (at my destination) then got on the bike and the bike started doing it again, this time it was just after the bike warmed up.
Connected the laptop and this is how I was able to determine the RPMs when the stuttering starts.
I have noticed that the stuttering will not happen when bike is cold.

Between October and now this is what I have troubleshot:
Noticed the rear brake light and the running lights on the front turn signals were like pulsing from normal to brighter (but you had to really look to see it)
Placed a Zero map and issue did not go away. Removed PCV and issue went away. Dyno determined the PCV was bad. Got a new PCV (did the exchange for $200)
Placed a Zero map and issue did not happen. Placed the 007 map and the issue did not happen. Placed 2dirty's map and issue came back. Looking at his map, there are reduced/added fuel and timing changes. The Zero map and 007 map have no fuel reduction or changes in timing. This told me that there's either a clogged injector or electrical issue / timing issue. Lights were still pulsing.

Replaced spark plugs (previous ones were fine but changed anyways)
Ohms check on coils (within spec)
Voltage test on battery @ 5,000RPMs (13.3v-14.5v)
Diode test on rectifier: Forward test .1 on all three diodes (I can't find the correct specs or if a forward-bias test works on this rectifier)
Reverse-bias test: .4XX on all three diodes.

Today, after plugging everything back up and turned bike on, I've noticed the lights do not pulse anymore. The stuttering also was no longer happening so decided to take the bike for a test ride and got roughly 300ft then the bike dies. Turned key off, turned key on, bike fired up and drove it home.
Not really sure what else to do. Anything else I can test? Thanks in advance

Video of bike stuttering and also lights flickering:
Do ALL the lights flicker or just the taillight?

It is kind of hard to tell in the video.

It sounds like, from your description, the issue only occurs with 2dirty's map installed.

I know that at one point he had reduced the fuel cells in the fuel table at idle to try and lower the idle of the bike to mimic the low idle of the reflash. Unfortunately this isn't the proper way to achieve a low idle and it doesn't work very well, if at all, because the ECU is commanding the idle to be at 930 rpm at idle and when you reduce the fuel being injected at idle the ECU tells the IAC valve to close thereby reducing the amount of air allowed in past the throttle body and effectively raising the AFR back up.

All of this means that the bike is running much leaner than it should be at idle and is probably not good for the engine as it produces more heat from running lean... remember, lean is mean.

There is a possibility, I suppose, that you got a bad download of his map. You could try downloading his map again, maybe from a different place and then reload it and see if it makes a difference.

If that doesn't make any difference then I would download one of the other maps and ride for a while and see if the issues persist.

From the video it also appears that the missing/stuttering is not just at idle. You also stated that the problem shows up after the bike is up to operating temperature. Perhaps the heat from the bike is causing a metal pin in one of the connectors to expand and create a bad connection/open circuit. That is one of the issues with running a fuel controller is that there are several piggyback harnesses to plug into the original harness and this greatly increases the possibility of bad/loose connections.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Q: "Do ALL the lights flicker or just the taillight?"
A: As stated, tail light and front running lights did, then they stopped. The headlight never flickered. I didn't mention this before but my LED underglow kit did flicker too.

Q: "It sounds like, from your description, the issue only occurs with 2dirty's map installed."
A: As stated, with the first PCV that I installed back in 2015 (and installed the 2dirty map back then as well) when the problem first occurred, the issue happened with the 2dirty map and the zero map. Now with a new PCV (installed a week ago) the issue only happens with the 2dirty map. 007 map and zero map work just fine. What I'm leaning towards with this information is the timing. With his advanced timing, voltage changes.

Q: "There is a possibility, I suppose, that you got a bad download of his map. You could try downloading his map again, maybe from a different place and then reload it and see if it makes a difference."
A: I've had the same map stored on file since 2014 when I purchased my first 2010 Sabre. I purchased the 2013 sabre in 2015 (brand-new still in crate).

Q: "From the video it also appears that the missing/stuttering is not just at idle."
A: I never stated it was at idle. I stated it happens at 1,600-1,700rpm and +/- 2,200rpms. It also does it at higher but to avoid pissing off my neighbors, I don't take it past 2,600rpms. You are correct stating it happens after warm-up.

Not dismissing anything you said. Just wanted to make sure I was very clear on the information I am providing for better feedback and steps for troubleshooting / diagnosing.

Would you or someone be able to do a forward-bias test on their rectifier for me and give me your readings? Mine came out as .1xx on all three diodes but I'm not sure if these rectifiers allow forward-bias testing like the typical rectifier. Reverse came out as .4XX on all three diodes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,016 Posts
Q: "Do ALL the lights flicker or just the taillight?"
A: As stated, tail light and front running lights did, then they stopped. The headlight never flickered. I didn't mention this before but my LED underglow kit did flicker too.

Q: "It sounds like, from your description, the issue only occurs with 2dirty's map installed."
A: As stated, with the first PCV that I installed back in 2015 (and installed the 2dirty map back then as well) when the problem first occurred, the issue happened with the 2dirty map and the zero map. Now with a new PCV (installed a week ago) the issue only happens with the 2dirty map. 007 map and zero map work just fine. What I'm leaning towards with this information is the timing. With his advanced timing, voltage changes.

Q: "There is a possibility, I suppose, that you got a bad download of his map. You could try downloading his map again, maybe from a different place and then reload it and see if it makes a difference."
A: I've had the same map stored on file since 2014 when I purchased my first 2010 Sabre. I purchased the 2013 sabre in 2015 (brand-new still in crate).

Q: "From the video it also appears that the missing/stuttering is not just at idle."
A: I never stated it was at idle. I stated it happens at 1,600-1,700rpm and +/- 2,200rpms. It also does it at higher but to avoid pissing off my neighbors, I don't take it past 2,600rpms. You are correct stating it happens after warm-up.

Not dismissing anything you said. Just wanted to make sure I was very clear on the information I am providing for better feedback and steps for troubleshooting / diagnosing.

Would you or someone be able to do a forward-bias test on their rectifier for me and give me your readings? Mine came out as .1xx on all three diodes but I'm not sure if these rectifiers allow forward-bias testing like the typical rectifier. Reverse came out as .4XX on all three diodes.
My bike was totalled almost 2 1/2 years ago. I bought it back from the insurance company to part it out but it is at my Brother's house about 75 miles away so I don't have easy access to it to be able to test it for you.

Perhaps @Clueless could help you out with that info, as he is a Honda dealer tech.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
My bike was totalled almost 2 1/2 years ago. I bought it back from the insurance company to part it out but it is at my Brother's house about 75 miles away so I don't have easy access to it to be able to test it for you.

Perhaps @Clueless could help you out with that info, as he is a Honda dealer tech.

Thanks for the tag, Kbuskill. Very much appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Rectifier OhmsL .312
Forward-bias Test: .115, .114, .114. All Diodes closed
Reverse-bias Test: .479, .479, .482. All Diodes closed
(Disconnected Rectifer) Battery before start: 13.10v After start: 12.85v then crept back up to 12.92 and stayed there.
Plugged rectifier back in and battery voltage went back to 13.45-13.67
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Does nobody own a VT1300 anymore? I could really use some feedback on a forward-bias and reverse bias test. Honda dealerships won't release the specs which is increasingly frustrating.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top