Honda Fury Forums: banner

Need Some Help - Trouble with the Fury

3633 Views 28 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Fury_Guy
I rode to Alabama this weekend and experienced some trouble with the Fury.

I have only done 2 mods that involved anything to do with the engine or electrical system and both were very straight forward.

1. RAW Reaper Slip Ons (baffles in)- Simple bolt ons. I have noticed some black suit in the pipes and on the stock upper pipe where the slip on meets.

2. Side mounted plate - no problems -
Connected the hot from the LEDs to the brown
Connected the ground from LEDs to green w brown tracers

So here is the trouble I experienced. I'm taking the bike in today to have it checked out but wanted some of you out there to chime in (especially if it might be one of the mods)

Problems:
1. Trip odometer and clock reset themselves to zero. This happened twice now, the first was when I did the plate mod, figured it was because I disconnected the battery. It happened on Saturday, shortly after washing the bike.

2. Cruising at about 60 in 5th gear, engine felt like it was running out of gas. sputter and then would go, sputtered again and then go, then the engine light came on for about 3 seconds, then turned off and it seemed fine after that.

Drove it home from Alabama yesterday and had no problems, except that I was nervous about braking down.
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
First thought is check the battery connection, as if that gets loose it would zero out clock, and a loose wire could mess with spark possibly. Probably not the issue, but good to confirm basics first.
Battery Cables are tight
Ditto. First thing i would check would be your battery connections then any other wiring that you messed with. If that turns up nothing, check the wiring around the general areas that you were messing with. Coulda bumped something on accident.

The bike farting out like that and the odometer reseting sounds most likely a loose connection on your battery posts since you were messin with them IMO.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Battery cables are tight just rechecked. A lose connection on either the hot or ground for the plate light wouldn't cause this right. That would jsut cause the plate lights to flicker or not work correct?
Battery cables are tight just rechecked. A lose connection on either the hot or ground for the plate light wouldn't cause this right. That would jsut cause the plate lights to flicker or not work correct?
a loose connection would be implicated if that 'looseness' turned out to be a lead that was touching metal.

re: the popping, gurgling, slurping
sounds like a> bad gas b> loose gas cap (not likely) c> moisture in your tank d> loose/dirty spark plug or spark plug boot
re: the popping, gurgling, slurping
sounds like a> bad gas b> loose gas cap (not likely) c> moisture in your tank d> loose/dirty spark plug or spark plug boot
I did have to fill up with Jet Pep Gas (it was that or pull an RSS and push it)before that happened (about 80 miles before the sputtering), but wouldn't it have started earlier and continued until I was through that gas?
I rode to Alabama this weekend and experienced some trouble with the Fury.

1. RAW Reaper Slip Ons (baffles in)- Simple bolt ons. I have noticed some black suit in the pipes and on the stock upper pipe where the slip on meets.

2. Side mounted plate - no problems -
Connected the hot from the LEDs to the brown
Connected the ground from LEDs to green w brown tracers

Problems:
1. Trip odometer and clock reset themselves to zero. This happened twice now, the first was when I did the plate mod, figured it was because I disconnected the battery. It happened on Saturday, shortly after washing the bike.

2. Cruising at about 60 in 5th gear, engine felt like it was running out of gas. sputter and then would go, sputtered again and then go, then the engine light came on for about 3 seconds, then turned off and it seemed fine after that.

Drove it home from Alabama yesterday and had no problems, except that I was nervous about braking down.
There isn't a green w/brown wire on the Fury, the tail lights should have a green (ground) and brown (hot), the speedo and speed sensor use a green and black ground wire that runs directly to a frame ground (under the seat I think), if you tied into that you may have sliced the wire I would look close at that tie, ( don't use the blue POS taps), if you went right to ground at that bolt make sure it is tight and clean under the bolt. Since the bike sputtered and the trip reset, I would check that green and black wire for damage.
So a picture is worth a thousand words.


The hot wire from the plate LEDS goes to the brown wire comnig out of the white plug

The ground wire is connected to the green wire w brown tracers coming from the white plug. The white plug used to connect to the stock license plate light.
See less See more
So a picture is worth a thousand words.
The hot wire from the plate LEDS goes to the brown wire comnig out of the white plug

The ground wire is connected to the green wire w brown tracers coming from the white plug. The white plug used to connect to the stock license plate light.
If that is were you hooked it, then that is the correct spot, that is a green wire , but that is not a tracer. The wiring diagrams list that as a green wire just like the 2 on the t/s wires (the orange and blue plugs)and the brown as a brown, not brown with blue as you can see on the other wire. Tracers, on Hondas, are lines running the entire length .
Regarding problem #1, I had the odometer reset on me a couple of times an found out it was a loose battery connection. A week or two later, it started all over. Apparently the battery had lost to much of it charge and the shop put it on their charger and it has been good every since. I was not aware that the charging system on the Fury is not enough to fully charge the battery.

Regarding problem #2, it sounds like something just went thru your fuel. I had the same thing happen about a month ago. I was cruising along and all of sudden it started sputtering like it was out of gas. I turned around and headed for home and it has not done it since.
I dropped the bike at the dealer today. Picking it up on Friday when I get back from my business trip. I don't understand how they can tell me that there may be a diagnosis charge depending on what it is. It has 1800 miles and is 3 months old. If something is wrong then it better be under warranty!!! Even if they don't find anything, If there is any trouble I should be able to have them do diagnosis for free if it is under warranty.
My understanding is that they can bill Honda “trouble shooting” time as long as it turns out that it had nothing to do what your mods.
Sorry, I have to support the dealer's viewpoint on this one: If we make changes to our bikes that involve wiring, expect a diag. charge.
I don't think they should eat the cost of our mistakes or changes.
Skap, I agree, but if it turns out to be something else, it should be covered under the factory warranty.
Skap, I agree, but if it turns out to be something else, it should be covered under the factory warranty.
yes indeed.
just a side note, your raw design tips will spit carbon back out from the seem. that is normal. if you want to stop it, take the baffles out. good luck with the rest of it.
I agree that if it is a result of my mods than yeah I should be charged, but if not, even if they don't find anything, then I should not be charged. The engine light came on, I some how doubt that is from my LED plate lights.
I agree that if it is a result of my mods than yeah I should be charged, but if not, even if they don't find anything, then I should not be charged. The engine light came on, I some how doubt that is from my LED plate lights.
Yea, that's what I was thinking... there might be something wrong with your FI module or those particular cables under the gas tank and/or the reserve tank detector, as you could have accidentally shorted one of your cables, which could have screwed up one of these modules. But again, stress how important grounds are (the one's right under your seat) and the battery cable. Also, could be that one of the cables was somehow moved and is getting trapped under a body panel or something similar, but I doubt it from the sounds of it... Anyways, my two cents since everybody else seems to have given you some other good conclusions.
Just got off the phone with the dealer. They could not find any problems, and no code was stored from the engine light so it is coming back with a clean bill of health. Thanks for all the replies.
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top