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I ordered this set a few days ago. You could barely put all the parts together yourself for $99 when you add shipping in, etc, so I figured why not. We'll see when I get them if they're just complete junk.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I will be sure to take lots of photos so that the people can see just what they will be getting for there $100.
 

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Well I got the brake Light yesterday. This is all that was in it. Really nothing to it.
I got mine yesterday too. Was going to take photos and step through the process but you beat me too it. Hopefully we're not extremely disappointed.

To all, the directions BLOOOOOOOOW.
 

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Well I got the brake Light yesterday. This is all that was in it. Really nothing to it.
From this picture, I spy the same EXACT paperwork/schematic for the dual-element as I got from L&M for the clearly-mentioned Radiantz tail-light.

You, my friend, are sitting on a Radiantz light ... SportBikeLites did NOT manufacture that kit, in my visual opinion, so far as I can see.

Refer to my instructions here ... it's the same light:
http://www.furyforums.com/forum/fur...ender-radiantz-run-turn-brake-wiring-how.html
 

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I'm actually a little relieved that it's the Radiantz light. Yeah, reviews are mixed, but at least there's more to go on as far as instructions, etc. Looks like they aren't complete crap but we'll see how it goes.

Thanks again for the link. This should be interesting........ tools + faster = oil + water
 

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Wow..... you do NOT suck right now. THANKS!
Shucks



One of my job functions is technical writing. Want a fun exercise? Write an instructional on how to make a peanut butter & jelly sandwich.

BTW, this wiring should be a TON easier on you all because your light is afixed to the frame, still, whereas mine comes and goes with the fender removal. So, just skip all the mumbo-jumbo about securing the wires under the fender - that is L&M Reaper Fender (and, possibly Sumo Fender) specific.
 

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I just got my kit form Raw after receiveing the same one you guys got I know the Raw was alot more but it truly is a case of you get what you pay for all metal brackets that utilize fender bracing,(not plasitc) controller w/built in resistors( no resistors in your kit) light preattached. IMHO a much better system
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It took me about 2 1\2 hours to install this.

Tools you will need
  1. Sawzall w/metal cuttingblade
  2. 8mm & 10mm Socket
  3. Phillips Screw driver
  4. Shears or jig saw to cut plastic
  5. Allen wrenches
  6. Wire cutters
  7. Black Electrical tape



First thing I did after taking the fender off was cut the plastic brake light shroud in half. So it would hide under the fender. I used a jig saw for this.





My 10 year old was helping me. He likes to cut stuff up. So I told him to have at it.

After that I went and cut the turn signal brackets off the rear fender mount. I used a Sawzall to this. I also had to take the piece off the bike and put into a vice. So I could cut it.





I then put it all together and realized that the down tubes needed cut shorter. I had already cut the beaver tail plate holder off.



The wiring was really easy too.

Black=Ground
Red= Hot
yellow&Blue are the turn signals.

The only thing I don't like is that the turn signals blink really fast now. I thank it has something to do with the ground wires on the turn signals not being hooked up to anything. Correct me if I'm wrong.

All in all for $99 shipped what more could you ask for.
Well it could have been $50 shipped.
 

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I just got my kit form Raw after receiveing the same one you guys got I know the Raw was alot more but it truly is a case of you get what you pay for all metal brackets that utilize fender bracing,(not plasitc) controller w/built in resistors( no resistors in your kit) light preattached. IMHO a much better system
I'll agree the hardware is more complete and the bracket is of better quality. But, that bracket serves little-to-no structural impact on the frame.

At $256 + S&H for your setup, versus
$100 for the other kit + ~$100 for the Kisan Tech SM-3, you're saving $56+ and getting a great turn signal cancellation module that needs no resistors or load balancers.

Just my opinion. :eek:
 

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The only thing I don't like is that the turn signals blink really fast now. I thank it has something to do with the ground wires on the turn signals not being hooked up to anything. Correct me if I'm wrong.
The fast blinking is because you have an imbalance of load between the rear LED and the front standard bulbs. Get a load balancing resistive setup or buy a Kisan Tech SM-3 turn cancellation module that needs not a load balancing intervention.

Jeesh, you'd think I worked for Kisan Tech or something ... I do NOT!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The fast blinking is because you have an imbalance of load between the rear LED and the front standard bulbs. Get a load balancing resistive setup or buy a Kisan Tech SM-3 turn cancellation module that needs not a load balancing intervention.

Jeesh, you'd think I worked for Kisan Tech or something ... I do NOT!
Maybe they will make you there go to guy Like Dave with L&M.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I take it back....There was 2 things I didn't like.

I didn't like that I had to zip tie the ends of the light bar to the arced plastic piece. I can see that in time the plastic zip getting weak and breaking off.
 
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