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After removing the PC V and replacing the fuel pump,now I have no injector Pulse,,,any idea what could be wrong

Thanx
 

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Not trying to threadsurrect here, but this is the only other post I've seen with this problem. I've got no pulse either, only power, to the front cylinder's fuel injector connection.

Did you find anything to fix this?
 

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The fuel injectors are controlled by pulsing the ground side of the injectors while the 12V+ side is constantly powered, while the key is in the run position, as you have discovered.

Also, here is some info from the factory service manual that pertains to your situation...
239869


239870


239871


* Note the "Fail-Safe" section of the last photo.*

Hopefully it helps.
 

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Thanks for the help! We've done the troubleshoot from that last image already and seem to have gotten the 'open circuit on signal line' conclusion. I'm going to rent a noid light today and check it to be sure. If it is a faulty signal line, how can I get it replaced without buying a whole new wiring harness? That's $600 I'd rather not spend... Unless I absolutely have to.
 

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I was hoping I'd be able to do just that. We've tested, and there seems to be no continuity. Would it be possible to remove one wire from the black ecu connector and replace it with a new one? What would it take to do that?
 

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I was hoping I'd be able to do just that. We've tested, and there seems to be no continuity. Would it be possible to remove one wire from the black ecu connector and replace it with a new one? What would it take to do that?
If you had the proper pins/terminals for the ECU connector then you could.

Personally, I would just cut the wire a few inches from either end and solder and heatshrink a new wire to the existing ends.

Make sure to use good, marine grade, heatshrink tubing that has the heat activated adhesive inside it to seal it from the elements.

Quick question, does the bike, or did the bike, have a fuel controller on it???
 

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If you run your fingernail along the bent wire while pulling it with your other hand (and stretching it slightly) you should be able to feel where the break is. Clean the wire, cut the insulation, slip on marine heat shrink as @Kbuskill says--2" longer than a butt connector, strip the insulation back, crimp the wieres in a butt-connector (best) or solder (also good). Center the heat shrink tube and heat 'er up!

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If you had the proper pins/terminals for the ECU connector then you could.

Personally, I would just cut the wire a few inches from either end and solder and heatshrink a new wire to the existing ends.

Make sure to use good, marine grade, heatshrink tubing that has the heat activated adhesive inside it to seal it from the elements.
Good idea, I'll give that a shot after some further testing. Then if it doesn't work, I can try to replace the connections themselves.


Quick question, does the bike, or did the bike, have a fuel controller on it???
It doesn't now, but it used to. I got the bike from an auction after it had been damaged ny theft. I found the remains of a fuel controller connected to the injectors - it was only the grey and black connectors and three wires. I posted about it in the thread called "Mystery wire?" Would a sudden lack of a fuel controller cause the issue I'm facing?
 

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Just got done trying the noid lights. I got one vblink, once,from the front injector. Nothing from the rear. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. Anyway, I quickly noticed that the front cylinder had been flooded with gasoline... I yanked the sparkplugs outta there and fired the starter a few times. At first a geyser of fuel, then mist, then hardly anything. No telling how long it's been building. How can that happen if the injectors aren't even firing? Am I missing something or what? Could they be stuck open and have dead wiring? Not much fuel came from the rear. Is it mainly stuck closed then? Tomorrow after work I can check the wiring more thoroughly now that it seems obvious the wiring's shot. Any other advice in the meantime? Edit: I also removed the fuel pump fuse before ejecting the gas...
 

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No, removing the fuel controller shouldn't have any ill effect on the bike.

Any idea what brand of fuel controller it had?

I am not familiar with the Power Commander fuel controllers but I assume they are similar in nature to the other fuel controllers on the market as far as connections are concerned.

The Cobra fuel controllers use a piggyback type of plug at the injectors. So you would unplug the factory harness from the injectors and plug them into the fuel controller's plugs and then the fuel controller's harness has its own plugs that go to the injectors.

I would check your injector plugs for damage since they would have been plugged and unplugged before and make sure that the connectors are making good contact.

Have you tried checking for continuity between the injectors and the ECU connector yet?
 

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Unfortunately I don't know what brand it is, all I've got is the wiring and connectors that the thieves left behind. They're exactly as you described.

We did check continuity already with a multimeter. We didn't get anything unfortunately, although we at least had power signal with that. The noid light didn't light up except one blink.

Could it be possible that only the connectors themselves are bad, and not the wiring? How would I check that?

EDIT: I've got the fuel controller's wiring and connectors, like I said. Would I be able to cut off the original connector and replace it with the fuel controller's connector? Provided it's the same gauge of wiring, of course.
 

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Unfortunately I don't know what brand it is, all I've got is the wiring and connectors that the thieves left behind. They're exactly as you described.

We did check continuity already with a multimeter. We didn't get anything unfortunately, although we at least had power signal with that. The noid light didn't light up except one blink.

Could it be possible that only the connectors themselves are bad, and not the wiring? How would I check that?

EDIT: I've got the fuel controller's wiring and connectors, like I said. Would I be able to cut off the original connector and replace it with the fuel controller's connector? Provided it's the same gauge of wiring, of course.
You definitely could cut the originals and use the aftermarket plugs but the first thing to do would be to check the pins and terminals on the injector harness and the injectors themselves to make sure none are bent, broken, corroded, and that they are clean and tight.

If it is a broken wire somewhere in the harness, which seems highly unlikely unless it had been purposefully cut, then running a separate wire from the ECM to each injector would be pretty simple, even if only for testing purposes.

Did you also check for continuity from the injector harness to ground as described?
 

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You definitely could cut the originals and use the aftermarket plugs but the first thing to do would be to check the pins and terminals on the injector harness and the injectors themselves to make sure none are bent, broken, corroded, and that they are clean and tight.

If it is a broken wire somewhere in the harness, which seems highly unlikely unless it had been purposefully cut, then running a separate wire from the ECM to each injector would be pretty simple, even if only for testing purposes.

Did you also check for continuity from the injector harness to ground as described?
Yeah, we checked everything for the injector wiring in the way the service manual says to. That's how we came to the conclusion of an open circuit. The weird thing is we showed power then, but the noid light showed nothing.

This weekend I'll be having my apprentice electrician friend help me rewire the injectors, so we'll see if that works
 

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Today after work I can check the condition of the connections. They clip together tightly but I'm unsure of the electrical part to be honest.
 

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Here's what I've got so far:

For some reason there's no signal going from the ECU to the injectors.
I've determined the wiring and/or connectors are faulty.
This weekend we'll cut the wires an inch or two behind the terminals on either side, then install a new wire.
If that doesn't work, I'll try completely replacing the connectors to the fuel injectors as well as all terminals, and connect them to the new wires.

I'll keep you guys posted and I'll keep monitoring for advice.
 

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Generally it's best to find the problem before implementing a fix. If a shop used that method to diagnose someone's bike the owner might not be too happy because new potential failure points were hacked in.

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