After removing the PC V and replacing the fuel pump,now I have no injector Pulse,,,any idea what could be wrong
Thanks for the infoThe fuel injectors are controlled by pulsing the ground side of the injectors while the 12V+ side is constantly powered, while the key is in the run position, as you have discovered.
Also, here is some info from the factory service manual that pertains to your situation...
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* Note the "Fail-Safe" section of the last photo.*
Hopefully it helps.
If you had the proper pins/terminals for the ECU connector then you could.I was hoping I'd be able to do just that. We've tested, and there seems to be no continuity. Would it be possible to remove one wire from the black ecu connector and replace it with a new one? What would it take to do that?
Good idea, I'll give that a shot after some further testing. Then if it doesn't work, I can try to replace the connections themselves.If you had the proper pins/terminals for the ECU connector then you could.
Personally, I would just cut the wire a few inches from either end and solder and heatshrink a new wire to the existing ends.
Make sure to use good, marine grade, heatshrink tubing that has the heat activated adhesive inside it to seal it from the elements.
It doesn't now, but it used to. I got the bike from an auction after it had been damaged ny theft. I found the remains of a fuel controller connected to the injectors - it was only the grey and black connectors and three wires. I posted about it in the thread called "Mystery wire?" Would a sudden lack of a fuel controller cause the issue I'm facing?Quick question, does the bike, or did the bike, have a fuel controller on it???
You definitely could cut the originals and use the aftermarket plugs but the first thing to do would be to check the pins and terminals on the injector harness and the injectors themselves to make sure none are bent, broken, corroded, and that they are clean and tight.Unfortunately I don't know what brand it is, all I've got is the wiring and connectors that the thieves left behind. They're exactly as you described.
We did check continuity already with a multimeter. We didn't get anything unfortunately, although we at least had power signal with that. The noid light didn't light up except one blink.
Could it be possible that only the connectors themselves are bad, and not the wiring? How would I check that?
EDIT: I've got the fuel controller's wiring and connectors, like I said. Would I be able to cut off the original connector and replace it with the fuel controller's connector? Provided it's the same gauge of wiring, of course.
Yeah, we checked everything for the injector wiring in the way the service manual says to. That's how we came to the conclusion of an open circuit. The weird thing is we showed power then, but the noid light showed nothing.You definitely could cut the originals and use the aftermarket plugs but the first thing to do would be to check the pins and terminals on the injector harness and the injectors themselves to make sure none are bent, broken, corroded, and that they are clean and tight.
If it is a broken wire somewhere in the harness, which seems highly unlikely unless it had been purposefully cut, then running a separate wire from the ECM to each injector would be pretty simple, even if only for testing purposes.
Did you also check for continuity from the injector harness to ground as described?